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Author Topic: Error code 15  (Read 7587 times)
RCH
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« on: February 15, 2009, 03:29:27 PM »

15 - Dual Port RAM ERROR
How did I get and how do i fix it or get rid of it. Help
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uniman
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« Reply #1 on: February 15, 2009, 05:58:22 PM »

Universal made several different models of machines and video poker games.
My guess is you are talking about an Ultra Series slot machine.  Scratch Head
There are two error 15's for the Ultra.  15 0  is main ram error   15 1 is dual port ram error
In either case, the fix is the same.

How do you get it, I don't have a clue?
Possibly the battery may be getting low.

How do you fix it, perform a ram clear.
Click on this link; http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1295.0

If the error reappears after a ram clear, your board needs to be replaced.
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RCH
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« Reply #2 on: February 15, 2009, 07:09:50 PM »

Thanks for the info, have tried the ram clear and still get the error 15 1
I will check the batt again, last check show me 4.0v
Where can i get a new board?

Thanks applause
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uniman
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« Reply #3 on: February 15, 2009, 09:38:51 PM »

Thanks for the info, have tried the ram clear and still get the error 15 1
I will check the batt again, last check show me 4.0v
Where can i get a new board?

Thanks applause
Boards for the Ultra series are very, very hard to find.  bawling
Blueridge Slots sold one last month but I think it was his last one.
The dual-port ram is a square chip located right behind the four red LED's. Location U53.
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StatFreak
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« Reply #4 on: February 16, 2009, 11:25:43 AM »

Jim, does Mr. Jim L. in Las Vegas do Uni board repairs? It would seem to be worthwhile repairing them if they are that hard to find. Scratch Head
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tacman
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« Reply #5 on: February 16, 2009, 01:05:31 PM »

Larry Weber at KLAR shows they do Uni board repairs and he is a nice guy to deal with.

http://www.slotmachinerepair.com/repair.html

 Dan (tacman)
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uniman
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« Reply #6 on: February 16, 2009, 11:14:45 PM »

To all board repair experts out there, this is the dual-port ram chip.
Look at all those legs! Looks like a centipede!
Can this chip be replaced?  Scratch Head



* MVC-020S.JPG (45.16 KB, 640x480 - viewed 357 times.)
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #7 on: February 17, 2009, 02:45:46 AM »

I've replaced a chip like that once for a cherry master type of board once.
I did my homework first.
The easiest way to replace that type of chip is this:
If the board has a battery soldered, unsolder one end and tape it so it doesnt make contact with the board.
Make a tiny mark with a fine tip marker on one corner on the board so you'll have a reference point as to which way the new chip goes in after the old chip is removed.
Put a brand new blade in a exacto knife and cut all the legs through of the old chip.
Try to cut at the thinnest part of the legs.
Remove the chip.
With a needle point pliers, grab a cut leg thats sticking out but still soldered to the board.
Put heat on the leg itself with a clean, sharp soldering tip.
The severed piece of leg should come right out.
Repeat for every leg, and never apply more heat than is needed to remove the leg pieces.
When all the legs are removed from the board, all the solder needs to be sucked out of the holes in the board so the new chip can just slip through the holes into place.
When the holes are solder free and cleaned, drop in a new chip (with a little Goop on the bottom) using the reference mark you made earlier. The chip will adhere to the board.
Now comes the hard part.
Flip the board around, flux every leg with a small brush.
Do one leg at a time, apply some solder to the tip, touch the tip of the leg and solder should run right down the leg and adhere to the solder on the edge of the hole on the board. Again, do NOT use too much heat or you'll ruin the chip and have to start all over again.
When you're done, take the tape off the battery terminal and resolder the battery terminal to the board.
You oughta be good to go!

This is NOT a job for a beginner and the soldering iron really needs to be a good type with controlled heat settings...NOT the cheap radio shack ones.
If I made any mistakes ot if anyone has a better suggestion, now's a good time to let us know!
If you're not comfortable with this procedure, send the board to someone who is....it'll save you a peace of mind.
Good luck! 
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StatFreak
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« Reply #8 on: February 17, 2009, 11:28:10 AM »

SB, to what temperature did you set the soldering station when soldering in the new chip?

SF  garfield



<ADD>  rotflmao rotflmao rotflmao  I just saw your signature, so I changed the wording of my question.  wave
Quote
(or Blackjack, or Mark,or Mark#2,or SB,or SOB,or, Stout, or Bunker, or Stout O'Bunker,etc....lol)
« Last Edit: February 17, 2009, 11:36:30 AM by StatFreak » Logged

I found myself at NLG garfield  ..but got lost again on the way home. Scratch Head 2
If found, please email me to myself. Thanks. yes
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #9 on: February 17, 2009, 12:51:45 PM »

I use 60/40 (Tin/Lead composition) Rosin-core .050 dia. solder and the controlled soldering station set at:
Normal operation> 270-320ºC (518-608ºF)
Desoldering operation for smaller joint> 320-360ºC  (608-680ºF)
I like using the "Non-Spill" paste rosin soldering flux in a small cup.
These products are readily available at your local Radio Snack stores.
Paste Cat.# 64-022 F
.50 dia. solder wire Cat.#64-006 E

It's better to use a soldering station like this...about a $99.00...






* soldering station.jpg (14.77 KB, 300x234 - viewed 719 times.)
« Last Edit: February 17, 2009, 01:06:24 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
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