6+ yrs. of monitor repair...

[Belbtech]

See if this comes through this time...it's all the repairs I've done to monitors in the last six years...

God bless,
Mike><>

[Ken Layton]

That one came through. Boy you sure fixed a lot of Kortek KT-1703N's.

[Belbtech]

Glad to see it is downloadable, yes there are quite few KT-1703N's...300+...

I ought to mention that the column labeled "Problem" are what ever the floor techs considered the problem to be and noted on the repair tag, so sometimes the "solution" doesn't seem to have anything to do with the problem & they don't!!!  You need to remember that the first "law" of troubleshooting is to verify that there is a problem...thus the reason you find quite a few NPFs (No Problem Found) & CNDs (Could Not Duplicate) in the "Solution" column.

Hope some of the information is of use to someone...

God bless,
Mike><>

[TZtech]

Hello Mike

Great Info - Thanks for posting. Is this for one property and if so what the ratio of ceronix vs kortek etc on your floor ?
My opinion is that Ceronix are the best gaming monitors - Looking for some hard facts to prove me right/wrong.

Regards
Ian

[Belbtech]

Hi Ian,

You're welcome, hope it will be of use to you...

Yes, it is from one property.  I'd say that we have close to 65% Kortek (that's counting Kortek LCDs & a few 19" in I-Games)...most of our Ceronix monitors are bartops, Konami games, Atronic games, a few older Aristocrat games, & Ceronix LCDs used in Atronic Emotion games.  Of course we have Kristel LCDs in the Wms. Bluebird games, and Tovis Monitors used in I-Games, some other oddball monitors in the newer games on the floor, most of the new games are not supported at all!

The topic in this repair section "Ceronix Monitors (Older...1490 & 1492)" were from a casino in Las Vegas from 1993 to 1998... that casino was in the process of switching all the monitors to Ceronix, they had switched out all Electrohome Monitors & most RGB Monitors (1401s & 1401As), most everything from the mid-90s came in with Ceronix Monitors in them.

I have had good results when working on Ceronix monitors...the best thing about Ceronix is the fact that the company doesn't have any secrets, they want you to know how to repair their monitors!!!  All manuals are available on their web site (no charge), plus information on parts, I'm not sure if they still sell components to the public, but that was the least expensive place to buy components...diodes for $0.01 each, capacitors for pennys, etc...

Hope that answers your question...

God bless,
Mike><>

[yalam88]

Lots of good info in this log.  I have a Wells-Gardner that was ticking and had a black screen. I replaced the power supply caps and the ticking went away and was left with a collapsed vertical screen.  While I had replaced U301 and U600 I had not replaced U302.  Parts are on order and I will update.

[Belbtech]

Hi ya,

Hope you will be able to use more of the information, I know it's kind of a pain to search through all the entries, but that's how the monitors came to me and the order in which they were repaired.

On your problem, did you test the H.O.T. (Horizontal Output Transistor)?  If it is shorted internally it can cause a blackout condition (usually the two outside legs show a shorted condition, while either outside leg and the middle leg will read like a diode on your multimeter).  Hope this helps...

Good luck & God bless,
Mike><>

[yalam88]

Didn't test the H.O.T. the last time I had it apart. The next time I open it up I will test that as well.  My many years of electronics experience and work did not include any type of CRT or monitor, so all of this stuff is new to me.  (I don't remember much of what we covered in school - too long ago.)

And the information was not that hard to look through and it gave me a good idea of what can all go wrong with my monitor.

[Belbtech]

Hi ya,

I just reread what I posted yesterday, and it now seems as clear as Mississippi mud to me...

"usually the two outside legs show a shorted condition, while either outside leg and the middle leg will read like a diode on your multimeter" this is what a good H.O.T. will check like (normally).  A failed H.O.T. usually has ALL legs shorted internally...hope this makes the troubleshooting a little easier...

God bless,
Mike><>

[tjkeller]

Thanks Mike for sharing all the info!

[Belbtech]

Hi tj,

You're more than welcome...I'm just glad that there are some out there that can use some of the information...

God bless,
Mike><>

[ANDRIU]

I wanted to know if you can give information to near the monitors of Royal Ascot. The reference is PM1736A. I appreciate any answer

[Belbtech]

Hi Andriu,

I'm not familiar with the Royal Ascot game...what manufacturer makes the monitor (Wells-Gardner, Ceronix, Tatung, Tovis, RGB, electrohome, Kristel, Kortek, etc...)?  Information about the manufacturer should either be stamped on the monitor frame or a sticker should be attached to the frame by the manufacturer, if you can come up with the model number and manufacturer someone on this forum should be able to help you (even if I can't).

Sorry, I'm not of more help...

God bless,
Mike><>

[rick3973]

can you tell me where i can obtain parts easily for the Kortek monitors
Thanks
Harold

[Belbtech]

Hi Harold,

I'd say the place that would be easiest would be CasinoTech at;
http://casinotech.com/index.html
They're the authorized distributor and service center for Kortek monitors...you'd be hard pressed to find any components they don't stock...

God bless,
Mike><>

[rick3973]

Thanks mike already tried them

[Belbtech]

Something everyone might want to consider with all the LCD monitors being utilized in games now.  Many don't have cooling fans, but they do have metal enclosures that tend to keep the heat inside the enclosure instead of allowing the heat to dissipate.

Most of the Kortek retrofit LCD monitors for IGT games (KTL190S-21, KTL170S-31, etc.) all you need to do is remove the metal enclosure from the back of the monitor to allow air to circulate around the boards.

If you have one of the newer Aristocrat Viridian games it isn't so simple...as the monitor swings out with the door, so the metal enclosure is a safe gaurd against carelessly placed appendages...we have had some issues with the Wells-Gardner monitors that come with the game.  It's a W-G, Safety Model # WGF0009, 24VDC, 2.2A Max., Manufactured 6-'08.

We had been having issues with one game in particular, the monitor would blackout every 30 minutes to 1 hour & if you powered down for five minutes the monitor would display "cartoons" for another 30 min. to 1 hr., this was the strangest condition, while we had four or five other W-G LCDs that blacked out, once they were black they stayed black.

After considering the possible causes, it was determined that it had to be a heat related issue, due to the fact this monitor doesn't have a cooling fan attached to it.  A 12VDC fan was retrofitted just above and a little to the left of the A-D Board on the metal cover that encapsulates all the boards & keeps all that wonderful heat in.  Since the retro happened the game has run flawlessly for over three weeks. 

Only one problem...the monitors are still under warranty, so management didn't think it was such a great thing voiding the warranty like I did (I’m hoping to do better…).  So, you may want to wait until the warranty has expired before upgrading them just to keep your boss happy.

God bless,
Mike><>

[Belbtech]

This may help someone out there...

Known Problem Components & the problems they cause;

C107 & C108, can cause a blackout condition.
C119 & C122, can cause a partial vertical collapse (the top half of the raster compressed into one line.)
C123, can cause horizontal tare (the signal deflects diagonally across the raster)
C126, can cause a blackout condition (also)
C408, can cause the raster to "vibrate" (AKA, "High Speed Wobble")
C420, can cause a failure to focus correctly &/or a wide raster that won't adjust to fit the screen.

D904 (on the dynamic focus board) can cause dark stripes on the left side of the raster (AKA, "competition stripes")

While these repairs are from a Kortek KT1703N, most of them will relate to other Kortek models as most manufacturers are basically lazy (if they have one product that works they will usually keep the basic design for all models).

God bless,
Mike><>

[SAT (aka GANDHI)]

Hi Mike (Belbtech)

Are there any chances that I can have the "Repairs Log" you posted at the beginning of this thread in its original format (I guess it's in Excel  )

That file and any other related material would be very appreciated (send me a PM or email if you can)

Best regards and thanks in advance!!

[Belbtech]

Hi SAT,

Only if you promise to use them for good & not E-VIL...

I'll see if I can get 'em emailed to you...

God bless,
Mike><>

[Belbtech]

This may help some...seeing how most gaming monitors are being replaced by LCDs...

The information is on Kristel LCDs used in Williams Bluebird games, but the info gives you a good start with the others...just remember how it came apart, you don't want a half cup of left over screws when you're finished!

This was part of the information handed out at the Sencore LCD Monitor Troubleshooting Course.

God bless,
Mike><>

[channelmaniac]

Don't forget to give proper credit to the creator if this is to be used in other works.... (And you really should ask for permission to use in other works if that's the case)

[Belbtech]

I DO give proper credit to the Creator, always & everywhere!!!  PRAISE GOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What I have been given, I give freely!

God bless,
Mike><>

[SAT (aka GANDHI)]

Only if you promise to use them for good & not E-VIL...

Deal!  Promised 

[Belbtech]

Hi SAT,

I just sent it out, hope it helps...

God bless,
Mike><>