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« Reply #25 on: March 08, 2009, 08:40:54 AM »

Now you need to bend a small flat screwdriver to use to take out the eproms.

W

Can I do this: I haven't found the kit I'm looking for yet. However, can I remove the reel eprom, insert that big green ZIF socket and put the original reel eprom back in without any problems or error code resets? This way, I'll have it ready for the new eprom and get some practice at doing this.
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« Reply #26 on: March 08, 2009, 09:31:05 AM »

Now you need to bend a small flat screwdriver to use to take out the eproms.

W

Can I do this: I haven't found the kit I'm looking for yet. However, can I remove the reel eprom, insert that big green ZIF socket and put the original reel eprom back in without any problems or error code resets? This way, I'll have it ready for the new eprom and get some practice at doing this.

Aside from the physical issues that occur when using the larger ZIF sockets on the S+ motherboard, which have already been covered here, you won't have any issues or errors removing and replacing the same reel EPROM with the added ZIF.
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« Reply #27 on: March 15, 2009, 08:13:34 AM »

Do these work for pulling out the EPROM? I found one by accident at a friends house and he said that's what it's used for.


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« Reply #28 on: March 15, 2009, 09:38:48 AM »

Do these work for pulling out the EPROM? I found one by accident at a friends house and he said that's what it's used for.


They are for PLLC chips (the square ones with leads coming out on all 4 sides.

This is the correct tool for pulling the standard PDIP 28-40 pin chips that are in most slots.
It brackets the chip on both sides to insure that the chip comes straight up without bending pins and then presses down on the socket/board when you pull the trigger to gain even leverage.

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« Reply #29 on: March 15, 2009, 04:00:15 PM »

Actually, I don't even think those would work for the PLCCs, as the legs are too wide to fit in the corners of the socket.

They are made to pull EPROMS, but they're pretty much guaranteed to bend or break the legs. They are too cheap a design to do a good job. Get the one Stat has pictured in his post, you will not regret it!
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« Reply #30 on: March 15, 2009, 07:28:32 PM »

Actually, I don't even think those would work for the PLCCs, as the legs are too wide to fit in the corners of the socket.

They are made to pull EPROMS, but they're pretty much guaranteed to bend or break the legs. They are too cheap a design to do a good job. Get the one Stat has pictured in his post, you will not regret it!

Where is a good place to buy the correct EPROM puller? Anybody have one they want to sell?
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« Reply #31 on: March 15, 2009, 08:01:03 PM »

Radio Shack:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103244

Here's the correct PLCC extrator, if you need one of those:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062619
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« Reply #32 on: March 15, 2009, 08:27:52 PM »

While Radio Shack does have the correct DIP extractor, (I bought mine there), that link is not the correct one.
Thats the same junk extractor he has, the other device with it is an inserter.
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« Reply #33 on: March 15, 2009, 10:14:48 PM »

If you are looking for this style http://www.ohiogaming.com/chippuller.htm. I have them for $10 including first class shipping.
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« Reply #34 on: March 15, 2009, 10:27:34 PM »

If you are looking for this style http://www.ohiogaming.com/chippuller.htm. I have them for $10 including first class shipping.


I was hoping I could find the other larger silver ones. My friend actually has both kind, but does not have this one:


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« Reply #35 on: March 15, 2009, 10:46:35 PM »

If you are looking for this style http://www.ohiogaming.com/chippuller.htm. I have them for $10 including first class shipping.


That is for PLCC's not DIP's.
You will damage your slot eproms using this device!!!
ED
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« Reply #36 on: March 15, 2009, 10:57:40 PM »

I got one of those with my programmer....
It's been in the plastic bag since day one...
It's never been opened...
If you use one of those on a e prom, all it takes is that one freaking time the e prom twists in your hand
and you'll be cursing at yourself why you so were too  muted cheap to spend the money to get the right puller in the first place. yes
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« Reply #37 on: March 15, 2009, 11:26:53 PM »

It's called the Jonard EX-2, or the OK EX-2. If you do a google search for "DIP Extractor EX-2" you will get some hits.

Happ has them, but their shipping is a bitch. Here is the link anyway.
http://www.happcontrols.com/tools/92025300.htm

I found them on this site, but I have never bought from them and have no idea what they are like to do business with:
http://www.specialized.net/ecommerce/shop/layout.asp?product_id=122X081&OK-Industries,-IC-Extractor-EX-2

Here is the least expensive site that I found. Again, I have no knowledge of this site or it's reliability OR it's shipping charges:
http://www.all-spec.com/1/viewitem/EX2/ALLSPEC/prodinfo/w3path=cat


I highly recommend this tool. It supports the chip walls on either side and pushes down on the sides of the socket to ensure that the chip is pulled straight out without bending pins. You squeeze the trigger like a gun, so your are not pulling the chip out with arm motion. I was just showing this to Buzz this afternoon, and I was able to pull three chips in about six seconds, all with perfectly straight pins.

It also has a pin to attach an alligator clip to ground for any anal types that are extra worried about static discharge.
« Last Edit: March 15, 2009, 11:31:56 PM by StatFreak » Logged

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« Reply #38 on: March 16, 2009, 12:04:53 AM »

It's called the Jonard EX-2, or the OK EX-2. If you do a google search for "DIP Extractor EX-2" you will get some hits.

Happ has them, but their shipping is a bitch. Here is the link anyway.
http://www.happcontrols.com/tools/92025300.htm

I found them on this site, but I have never bought from them and have no idea what they are like to do business with:
http://www.specialized.net/ecommerce/shop/layout.asp?product_id=122X081&OK-Industries,-IC-Extractor-EX-2

Here is the least expensive site that I found. Again, I have no knowledge of this site or it's reliability OR it's shipping charges:
http://www.all-spec.com/1/viewitem/EX2/ALLSPEC/prodinfo/w3path=cat


I highly recommend this tool. It supports the chip walls on either side and pushes down on the sides of the socket to ensure that the chip is pulled straight out without bending pins. You squeeze the trigger like a gun, so your are not pulling the chip out with arm motion. I was just showing this to Buzz this afternoon, and I was able to pull three chips in about six seconds, all with perfectly straight pins.

It also has a pin to attach an alligator clip to ground for any anal types that are extra worried about static discharge.



Thank you StatFreak!! Those are some very helpful links. I never knew the "Exact" name for those pullers, so everytime I googled it came up with everything but the one I wanted. I figured that I had better invest in one of those and do it right the first time. The college I work at has an old electronics lab. We tried pulling eproms out of a bunch of old boards with the $.99 pullers and it was a hit a miss deal. We destroyed a few of them and I needed the practice anyway for the real thing on my machine when I go to change out eproms. Thanks again for the links!!
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« Reply #39 on: March 16, 2009, 01:30:06 AM »

I actually got mine from all-spec.com...if you're going to do all lot of pulling...buy two...they wear out.
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« Reply #40 on: March 16, 2009, 01:59:24 AM »

I actually got mine from all-spec.com...if you're going to do all lot of pulling...buy two...they wear out.


I just purchased one there tonight. The other site, http://www.specialized.net/ecommerce/shop/layout.asp?product_id=122X081&OK-Industries,-IC-Extractor-EX-2 has a minimum $25 order, or an $8 low order charge on top of anything below $25. And Happcontrols.com, NEVER AGAIN!!
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« Reply #41 on: March 16, 2009, 09:27:41 AM »

I actually got mine from all-spec.com...if you're going to do all lot of pulling...buy two...they wear out.

What's your definition of a lot of pulling? Do you mean a professional slot tech or an active home user?
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« Reply #42 on: March 16, 2009, 07:52:21 PM »

lol...how about a really extreme home user?? rotflmao
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« Reply #43 on: March 16, 2009, 07:56:34 PM »

After over a thousand chip pulls, my bent screwdriver is still going strong. yes

W
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StatFreak
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« Reply #44 on: March 17, 2009, 02:51:05 AM »

After over a thousand chip pulls, my bent screwdriver is still going strong. yes

W

I've probably pulled chips about 200-400 times with my EX-2 and it's still in near mint condition. I would expect it to last at least 10 to 20 times as long (2000-4000 pulls), but I'm just guessing since mine really shows no sign of wear. That's why I asked the question.

Of course, if you drop a power supply transformer on it or put it at the bottom of your tool chest and drop heavy socket wrenches all over it O & O, I suppose it wouldn't fare as well.  arrow Duh!
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« Reply #45 on: March 19, 2009, 08:03:17 PM »

Now you need to bend a small flat screwdriver to use to take out the eproms.

W


Can I do this: I haven't found the kit I'm looking for yet. However, can I remove the reel eprom, insert that big green ZIF socket and put the original reel eprom back in without any problems or error code resets? This way, I'll have it ready for the new eprom and get some practice at doing this.








Aside from the physical issues that occur when using the larger ZIF sockets on the S+ motherboard, which have already been covered here, you won't have any issues or errors removing and replacing the same reel EPROM with the added ZIF.


Okay, I'm almost ready to jump into this thing! I got the silver chip puller and two low-pro zif sockets. Here's the question: No game kit yet, but it's in the mail. Removing the board, can I also remove the GAME PROM, insert the low-pro zif socket into that one as well, without having any errors or resets? I may as well install the zif in the game PROM too, but does taking out the SAME GAME PROM and then re-installing it cause any errors? It will be the same game PROM but a different reel PROM.
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« Reply #46 on: March 19, 2009, 08:45:33 PM »

Why not divide and conquer ?

What I mean is that you have a working game, by changing too much at one time if you have problems its harder to troubleshoot.

 My suggestion is that you pull your existing Game and Reel Chips, add the Ziffs, pop the chips back in.
You should not need to clear, or use a set chip or anything. It should work just as it is now.

When your game kit comes and you change it out. If you have problems then you know its the game kit and not the zifs....
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« Reply #47 on: March 19, 2009, 08:59:03 PM »

Why not divide and conquer ?

What I mean is that you have a working game, by changing too much at one time if you have problems its harder to troubleshoot.

 My suggestion is that you pull your existing Game and Reel Chips, add the Ziffs, pop the chips back in.
You should not need to clear, or use a set chip or anything. It should work just as it is now.

When your game kit comes and you change it out. If you have problems then you know its the game kit and not the zifs....

Very well put! Being that the zif's are here, I just figured that I might as well pop one into the game PROM while I had the board out, so it would be easier in the future, if I decided to change that one as well. I was just concerned that taking out the game prom and then putting it back in, may cause me to lose my settings with the BV and what not. It will definitely be a new experience doing this, but it's not really a hard thing to do!!
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« Reply #48 on: March 19, 2009, 09:14:31 PM »

make sure the notch on the chip faces the rest of the board...the notch less side of the chip faces the edge.
Always, turn the power OFF when removing or replacing the board...can we call this the MPU now?
The board on the floor is actually called the "motherboard" while the big one is the MPU.
If you have ANY questions, we are inviting you to please ask!
No question is too dumb or intelligent...there's so many knowledgeable help on this forum that a bunch of guys are willing to jump in at any time of the day to help ya!
That how everyone learns and is what makes this website so freaking fantastic!
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« Reply #49 on: March 19, 2009, 09:47:43 PM »

make sure the notch on the chip faces the rest of the board...the notch less side of the chip faces the edge.
Always, turn the power OFF when removing or replacing the board...can we call this the MPU now?
The board on the floor is actually called the "motherboard" while the big one is the MPU.
If you have ANY questions, we are inviting you to please ask!
No question is too dumb or intelligent...there's so many knowledgeable help on this forum that a bunch of guys are willing to jump in at any time of the day to help ya!
That how everyone learns and is what makes this website so freaking fantastic!

Thank you VERY MUCH!! With this crew and their helpful, knowledgeable ways, it does make this site fantastic and so very enjoyable to visit!! Thanks Again!!  Hail applause Hail
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