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Author Topic: Universal 8601, not working.. no number display...  (Read 15714 times)
dave99
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« on: November 27, 2012, 08:36:10 PM »

Hi, 

I am new to this so excuse my ignorance.....

I have been given a Universal 8601 slot machine (crazy bar?)

When I plug the machine in, the lights all light up except the number display. Checked all the fuses but all ok, anyone know what to do? Anyone got a manual for this or similar?

Many thanks,
 applause
Dave
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pinman
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« Reply #1 on: November 27, 2012, 10:10:20 PM »

hey dave

UNIMAN is your guy.

he helped me with my universal.

he is the universal wiz... Hail

i love my machine and now i got the bug and looking for another one..

good luck..with your fix

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bruno
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« Reply #2 on: November 28, 2012, 12:04:58 AM »

Hi Dave,
[Crazy Bar] is a good classic Uni slot.
I send you the manual.
Regards,
Bruno
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dave99
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« Reply #3 on: November 28, 2012, 04:03:50 PM »

Thanks Bruno,
 I hope I can understand it!!
Much appreciated applause
Thanks

Dave
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dave99
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« Reply #4 on: November 28, 2012, 05:59:39 PM »

Would anyone know a reason why the LED display does not light up? Tongue Out
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Jim
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« Reply #5 on: November 28, 2012, 09:15:12 PM »

if nothing is working, listen to the speaker, if you don't hear any static or noise then probably the cpu is not running.  if you have a meter, check the +5vdc  on the plug in front  of and below the power supply.  pin 1  pink wire and pin 10 ground wire  black.  if no +5vdc, the noise filter is probably open, its located inside the power supply. 



Jim
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MIDWEST SLOTS   Selling Quality Slot Machines since 1995.  We service and repair all types of slot machines. Mills, Jennings, Bally EM, 1000/2000 series, Proslot, 6000. IGT  M, M+ ,S,  S+, S-2000,  I-Game,  Universal,  Video Poker, Sigma.
dave99
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« Reply #6 on: November 29, 2012, 04:40:11 PM »

Thanks Jim,

I have noise at the speaker and all the other lights work. Just no LCD display. Also, can release the pull arm manually but wheels do not turn.... bawling
« Last Edit: November 30, 2012, 02:58:19 PM by dave99 » Logged
dave99
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« Reply #7 on: November 29, 2012, 09:02:55 PM »

Hi, I bypassed the noise filter and I got a display '12 on the machine applause. I looked it up in the manual that Bruno kindly supplied. It stated that I should power the machine down and press the reset button in the cpu(?) at the main logic board  whilst powering back up....

Now I have lost the LCD display again!!!! Duh! Duh!

Please please Help.... Hail
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pinman
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« Reply #8 on: November 29, 2012, 09:30:36 PM »

that error code 12 could be the battery.

Replace 3.6 V Lithium battery on CPU board

and then reset button on cpu...

i'm not 100%  Scratch Head

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dave99
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« Reply #9 on: November 30, 2012, 02:56:34 PM »

Thanks Pinman,

 The machine has been in storage for some years so the battery is probably shot!! I will take it out and see if I can get one..

Would the power supply not power up the LCD once powered on? Scratch Head Is the battery only for memory back up?? Scratch Head

Where can I get a replacement, It's a 3.6v 50ma sealed ni-cad battery (GS Saft).

Dave
« Last Edit: November 30, 2012, 06:50:47 PM by dave99 » Logged
pinman
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« Reply #10 on: November 30, 2012, 08:04:15 PM »

hi dave
I'm not to good at this. I'm just thinking that error code 12 is the battery.

uniman helped me out with my machine. he knows every thing there is

to know about universal..look him up on the site...

thanks
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dave99
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« Reply #11 on: November 30, 2012, 08:37:08 PM »

Thanks a million for your help,

I have PMed Uniman Hail but he must be off line.  Really lookin forward to getting the Uni up and running before Christmas.

Again, Thanks so much,

Dave
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pinman
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« Reply #12 on: November 30, 2012, 09:58:24 PM »

do the battery..it's good to change any way.

let me know how you make out....

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dave99
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« Reply #13 on: December 01, 2012, 07:06:22 PM »

Will do, just have to source one......... Scratch Head 3 Scratch Head 3
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dave99
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« Reply #14 on: December 01, 2012, 09:18:59 PM »

Here's a pic of the old girl...


* Photo0197.jpg (636.4 KB, 1536x2048 - viewed 335 times.)
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pinman
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« Reply #15 on: December 01, 2012, 10:19:00 PM »

dave

if your only getting back lights.
it may be the noise filter in the power supply.

now that i'm thinking about it, that's what my machine was doing..

they put the filter in them for all the fluorescent light in the casinos.

thy go bad and you don't need it for home use.. you have to bypass it.

cut it out and reconnect the wires. i'm trying to find the link where uniman

showed me how to do it..i don't want you to connect the wrong wires..

here is a pic of my machine after it was fixed.. and a pic of the power supply..


* myslot.jpg (1134.75 KB, 1080x1440 - viewed 339 times.)

* slot-ps.jpg (578.13 KB, 1440x1080 - viewed 385 times.)
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dave99
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« Reply #16 on: December 02, 2012, 11:01:42 AM »

Hi,
I have already bypassed the noise filter and got LCD display for a brief period. The noise filter wires are colour coded and you can't really go wrong with it Duh! Duh!

Will get the battery on Wed or Thurs so will update then...

Thanks again Pinman applause

Dave

BTW-- Ypur machine looks really good...
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uniman
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« Reply #17 on: December 02, 2012, 02:45:41 PM »

Hi Dave,
Yeah, I've been offline for a bit.
The noise filter is the cause of most failures. You got that done. The error 12 is a dead battery. The machine may run with a dead battery but would need a reset everytime you power up. Yes, it saves memory on a chip. The cpu is the board located in the metal case left of the hopper. Pull the coin tray and slide the hopper out. At the bottom middle of the metal case there is a round hole. In the round hole is a small black push button. You hold this button down while powering up the machine. Hold it for about three seconds and release. This clears any corrupted ram.
But I don't think it will correct your lack of led's. I would start by checking power supply outputs. I have a post labeled power supplies that lists the outputs. Then I would check that big black plug that goes from the machine to the door. Make sure all the pin sockets and pins are not pushed out of position. I have seen these pins/sockets get pushed apart and not make connection.
Then, I would remove the cpu case and unscrew the cpu case holder from the machine. Look behind it for screws or coins that can lodge on the wiring. Also remove the cover of the cpu case and check the board for any coins or screws, top and bottom.

When you get a new machine there's no telling what the last guy did with it. Transporting it can send coins and screws behind the cpu case and cause problems. Need to take the time and eliminate those potential problems.
The lack of led's points at the cpu if there are no shorts, bad connections, and proper power.

Jim
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dave99
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« Reply #18 on: December 02, 2012, 04:49:18 PM »

Thanks Jim,
I will try all that and let you know how I got on.

Much appreciated,

Dave
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dave99
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« Reply #19 on: December 02, 2012, 09:29:25 PM »

Hi All,
I checked for any lodged coins by takinng the CPU and holder out. Everything looked good.

I opened up the power supply unit and found a second noise filter which I then removed (The first one was on the back of the machine). This made no difference at all.

I am in Ireland and the voltage in is 240v. I checked the voltage on the output side of the transformer and where it should be 9.5v it is 3.5v Scratch Head and where it is marked 24v it reads 12v. Scratch Head

Is it possible that the output voltage is correct and the transformer is marked wrong?

Either that or the PSU is kaputt......?
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uniman
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« Reply #20 on: December 03, 2012, 04:42:28 AM »

The 9.5 and 24v coming off the coil are AC voltages, make sure your testing them as AC.
The black noise filter in the power supply is the problem in most cases, the silver one in the back of machine not usually a problem.

Strange that you once had an error 12 and now no display??

Check the 12-socket connector outputs as listed in this post; http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=177.0
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dave99
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« Reply #21 on: December 03, 2012, 03:48:32 PM »

Hi Uniman,
I have checked out my PSU and I think it is a yellow dot. I crossed pins 6 and 12 and got 24vac.

What worries me though is :- #1 pin 3.8vdc, #2 pin 5vdc, #3 pin 1vac, #4 pin 1.5vdc, #5 pin 6vdc, #6 pin 17vac,
#8 pin 1vac, #9 pin 100vac, #11 pin 5.6vdc, #12 pin 6.2vdc.

Looks like a serious PSU problem bawling bawling

What do you think???

Is a new PSU expensive or can they be easily repaired? Are transformers available to suit?

Thanks for the help,

Dave
« Last Edit: December 03, 2012, 08:44:59 PM by dave99 » Logged
uniman
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« Reply #22 on: December 03, 2012, 11:22:59 PM »

Your findings not making much sense.
Do your testing this way; Set meter to AC and test between #3 and #9. Should be 100vac.
Test between #6 and #12. Should be 24vac. (Not really used if your machine has ballast lighting.)
Test between #8 and #10. Number ten is a ground, you should get 9.5vac.

Switch meter to DC and use #10 as ground. (black lead)
Test #1 to #10 should be 5vdc
Test #2 to #10 should be 24vdc, I get 34vdc on mine.
Test #4 to #10, should be 12vdc
Test #5 to #10, should be 24vdc, I get 34vdc on mine.
Test #11 to #10, should be 32vdc, I get 34vdc on mine.

Also, check your power cord for rips and tears especially where it goes out bottom of machine. Make sure all fuses are tightened down on front of power supply.

Jim
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dave99
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« Reply #23 on: December 04, 2012, 03:08:35 PM »

Hi Jim,

Thanks again for your patience. I come from a mechanical background and seldom use meters

I have checked all the above and all is good except the reading between #8 and #10 pins. The reading I'm getting is 4.4vac instead of 9.5vac.

What do you think would cause this?

Thanks,

Dave
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uniman
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« Reply #24 on: December 04, 2012, 10:24:28 PM »

Same here, I'm more mechanical than electrical. Maybe someone with a electronic background can tell me why I get 9.5vac on a circuit labeled 9.5vac when I test it to ground?? Maybe it's my cheap wal-mart meter! Or maybe because the 9.5vac pin is the neutral from the coil? The only way I see the 9.5vac is to test it to ground. Thought I would see 4.75v.


You could try this, with the power supply off, open it up and on the coil output side there should be a 9.5V and a 0 next to it.
Test for continuity between the #10 pin location (ground) and the 0 (zero) next to 9.5V on the coil. I get about 300 ohms.

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