Door Open Error..

[Red7]

Hey everyone..

I know there has been a lot of chatter regarding the constant door open error.. But I thought  I would throw this out there..

This particular machine has been a bit of a thorn in my side with errors..  When I powered the machine up recently ( last 3 months)  I got "Coin Jam error" and "Main door open" error.. So I removed the Main board and cut away the battery for it had some corrosion on it.. Clean the board up and had a good look with magnifying glass.. could not see any trace errors..  That did not change anything.. As well I tried to open and close the door, with no luck.. As well I changed the door input module..

Here's the weird thing..  If I leave the machine on, and don't touch it.. About 30 min later the panel lights start flashing and the VFD display starter to flicker, and it does this for a bout 5 minutes.. then the errors go away for about 10 sec, the machine spins the reels to initialize then the error comes back and it does this for about 5 minutes (the display changes from "Door open" too "insert coin" , back and forth) .. then the errors go away for good.. As long as I don't power down the machine it works great.. just takes 30 minutes to wake it up I guess..

So I figure this might be similar to what other people are experiencing .. I'm certain its do to a cold solder joint.. when the machine heats up.. the temperature change, changes the resistance at the solder point and makes a "just barely enough" connection..

If anyone has any ideas.. or has had the same issue.. please let me know.. I am going to try my best to trace this issue down.. I don't want to have to replace the board over such a silly issue..

I will keep you posted..

Steve

[slottechfort]

i have allot of those games on my floor and if your door optics work and it makes good contact then try closing the door 2 ta 3 times completely to clear your error. don't ask me why closing the door 2 times clear the errors it just does :-) .... and if your door open clears but your coin error then your door works fine and closing your door twice worked.. now work on your coin error.. if its not your coin comparitor then check your IO cards and make sure the power is off before trying to push the back in or resending them...

hope that helps

[TTG]

Def sounds like something is changing when it heats up.

Maybe its from the larger bulbs themselves or just general circuitry heat. Did you try removing the larger service door bulb to see if it still gives the error?

If I read the post correctly it seems to centered around the door circuitry.

If you havent already, I would start removing each of the 2 longer fluorescent bulbs one by one. It wont tell you whats wrong, actually it wont tell you much of anything, but it will tell you if they have something to do with it.

What is the attraction mode set at time wise?

I dont know enough about these machines yet to say anything else, but it def sounds like a warming up issue.

Sounds like it might be a tough issue to work out though, unless you luck into finding the problem, who knows could be a wire break that shows itself when it initially warms up?

When stuff like this happens to my toys, I just bang on it until it gets tired of getting beat up and decides to do what its supposed to do.   ........ ............. 

[Buzz]

First off " Door Open " is not a error, the machine is just telling you the door is open. Now you have to ask why does the machine think the door is open, 9 out of 10 times you will find the problem is in or around the door optics.
You said you replaced the door input module, I'm assuming this was the optics. Did you replace both of them, and did you adjust them ? See picture below, I place a mark on the door and cabinet that's in alighted with the optics, close the door, if the two black lines do not align the optics need adjusted. Oh another thought are you getting the door latch all the way to the bottom ? Not all most to the bottom, all the way down!

Cold solder, I don't know, I've never seen one, if I did I didn't know what it was. To prove or disprove your theory of heat making the machine work. Place a 75 to 100 watt light bulb inside the machine and preheat the machine for 30 minutes to a hour. In theory the machine is now warm/hot it should boot right up. ( I'm betting it won't.)

Long story but I promise to connect it. I've driven a Truck for way to many years, over those years I've found that when switching trailers more often than not some of the lights will not work on the trailer. Sometimes it's a turn light or all the marker lights fail to come on. The cure I've found for this is simple, just spit into the light plug before plugging it into the trailer. Now I'm not telling you to spit on your MPU, but some electrical cleaner on the pins that go into the mother board wouldn't hurt.


slottechfort   No need to open and close the door a few times. Next time just lift and lower the door latch. S 2000 will clear one error and only one error each time the door latch is opened and closed. If you have more than one error two or three times are needed.

[Red7]

Hey Guys...

Well I bypassed the optics completely with a switch..  And it worked fine for 3 months.. before this started to happen.. I played with the main board last night... Trying to track down the door circuit on the main board.. I re soldered a couple things and re-installed with no luck.. When I turned the machine on.. it just says door open..  30 min later the panel flickers and the vfd changes.. as is I was opening and closing door really fast for 5 minutes.. then everything was fine..

The module I replaced was the i/o board mounted inside the belly door..

I am certain the issue is The door optic circuitry.. Possibly the pulse feed that supplies the optics or the board input wire.. I am going to throw those wires on the scope tonight and see whats going on.. and then test a good known machine..

The other day I was getting pissed off and I just randomly soldered a couple spots on the main board, and when I re-installed it worked!.. but when I shut machine down for the night.. the next day the bugs were back.. I could have soldered or heated up the local area of the problem.. but i have no clue where that is.. I have the schematic.. but of course last night the PC at home was on the fritz.. I cannot win!

I will keep you posted..

I am determined to find this little gremlin.. sooner or later..


Steve


 

[TTG]

Can you forward me the schematic? I might already have it. But just in case.

Did it do this before you bypassed it? What was the switch rated for? I have had situations where I used a low rated switch and even slight arcing of the contacts inside created some pretty big problems.

[Neonkiss]

Try switching out the power supply with a known good.
If that dosen't make a differance try swapping out the CPU

[cowboygames]

If you're not already aware of it, the door optics and door IO card are not interconnected. The door optics wiring harness runs back to the Motherboard completely seperate from the IO harness. Where you said that the green battery had been leaking I would suspect trace damage as the door optics traces run underneath that battery on the MPU. If you have a spare one, swapping out for a test is a simple way to confirm or eliminate it as the problem

[mvco]

Try switching out the power supply with a known good.
If that dosen't make a differance try swapping out the CPU

Agreed, good advice, that is what I woud do.  The fact that it fires up in 30 minutes or so really makes me think caps in the power supply are fubar.  And that is not it, a replacement CPU board could do the trick.