IGT 37700 manual

[cafoose]

Showing input screen coin in optics unplugged (pic 1)
Showing input screen coin in optics unplugged and hopper removed (pic 2)

[TZtech]

1's with optics unplugged is not normal behaviour. Unplug the connector on the processor assembly that goes to the hopper and coin comparator and see what happens then. If You leave the screen on input self test and close the door does the door open signal alternate between 1 and 0 ?

Do you know if the machine ever worked with coins? Have You checked for aftermarket freeplay type devices that may be installed ?

[cafoose]

Shows coin optics and hopper unplugged at processor (pic 1)
Shows input screen with coin optics and hopper unplugged at processor (pic 2)

[Neonkiss]

OK,
I just saw this post and was going to confirm your finding with my machine here.
In test mode, I do show all 1's and with optics blocked they change to zero's.
That coin switch does change optic B when pressed.

Now the bad news. I closed the door to my machine and all the hold/deal buttons are dead.  
I traced the wiring for all five switches and they are good, so I went back to my computer. I found the attached trouble shooting manual that I have. I hope it helps out out with this issue.
I looked at what it said about my issue with all deal buttons being dead and it said to change the TEST SWITCH???
I thought that can't be right the test switch work, the deal hold buttons don't work. Anyways traced the wires and sure enough the common wire in the deal button goes to the test switch and mine is bad. I guess when I went into test to check your issue it was the last time that switch worked and then died.

Again check this manual and I'm sure it will help you out to resolve your problem.


AHHHHHH, THe manual is too big to attach here.  
Let me took and see if I can just pick out the section about the coin optics and post that. Or check your mail and I'll try to send the manual that way.

[cafoose]

The machine worked with coins when we got it on Christmas day with no issues and then after a couple hours of play it did what it is doing now. I would like it fixed to use with coins. I do not want to use it for free play

[Neonkiss]

Here is a page from Apendix 21 on the manual I email you.
You might start here

[knagl]

The program reference guide doesn't specify whether the optics should read 1 or 0 when open, but Knagl and the default picture in the manual both agree that it should be 1's when unblocked, so I see two or three problems.

First, the signals for the working optics (B,C) are reversed: you are getting 0's when open and 1's when blocked.
Second, A isn't working at all.

Agreed with you so far.  Think of the 1s and 0s as continuity present and continuity broken, respectively.  When there is nothing blocking the path of the optic, it returns a 1 -- the circuit is completed.  As such, in an idle state, there should be 1s on all the optics.  When a coin goes past, the continuity is momentarily broken, and the optics would briefly flip to zeros (no continuity) and then back to ones.  I agree with your diagnosis -- the B and C optics are giving the opposite results of what they should, and the A optic is never working.

Third, you have a coin out 1 which conflicts with the default states suggested by the picture in the manual. For giggles, try blocking and unblocking the optic on the hopper and make sure that coin out is working properly.

Here is where I disagree (perhaps with the manual).  The hopper optic works in the same fashion as the A, B, and C coin-in optics.  When the optic is unblocked, it returns a 1.  As a coin passes through, it briefly turns to a zero, then back to 1.  A "normal" idle condition would be for the hopper optic to be at 1.  If it's blocked and stuck at zero, it would result in a coin-out timeout.



For what it's worth, on my bartop PE+, when I remove the coin-in assembly, I get a coin-in timeout on the screen.  It is not normal for the machine to return all 1s on the A/B/C optics when the coin-in assembly is removed.


For reference, here is a screenshot from MAME of a working machine with no errors:

[jay]

I would remove the harness from the coin comparitor and see if anything changes.
My suspicion remains that there is a ground or short.

[Neonkiss]

I would remove the harness from the coin comparitor and see if anything changes.
My suspicion remains that there is a ground or short.

I agree with Jay, the ground short looks to be the issue.
All the signals with optics or switches are normally open and close when in contact with a ground. If you use a DVM and check the wire from the optics to see if they already are grounded at pin 4, 6 and 2 for the A, B, and C optics

If you look at your photo in reply 25 where you have the coin in optics disconnected, this is where you want to be with them connected. Another words, you have a short to ground from the optics to the plug that you disconnected. Thats why when you disconnect that plug you get a normal screen, but when connected you show optics B and C closed/blocked (grounded)

[cafoose]

My machine is working perfectly now! I have a friend I talked to and he gave me the phone number of a guy who works on video gaming and poker machines. He came over and cycled through all of the self tests and said he thinks the machine locked out because it has a lot of security features in it to make it lock out when someone tampers with it. The only way to get it working again is to cycle through all of the self tests on all the screens.

I really like this forum and I want to thank everyone for all of your help I appreciate it very much. If I can help anyone else please let me know.

[jay]

Excellent - to hear you got it working.
That is the correct way to fix the error, when it doesn't clear that way we start looking at optics.

If you go back to reply 21 - I did suggest stepping through all the setup screens.
I am surprized that in all of your testing that you didn't do that a number of times.

[cafoose]

Yes you did Jay, I see that now. I must have overlooked it. On the bright side I am glad I was able to learn more about these machines through all of the problems. I like working on things and this is the first machine like this that I have worked on. I have really enjoyed chatting with everyone and you all have been very helpful. I guess I just need to follow instructions more closely.

[cafoose]

In case anyone else has a similar problem here is a response from slotdoctor.com that I would like to share:

"Looks like you covered all bases. Eproms causing the tilt...no. All "ZEROS" on optic (in self test inputs) means there is a short. A "0" means the signal is a "LOGIC LOW" or "GROUND" at that connection. Check MPU board edge connector for bent bins. If your motherboard connection is "buggered up" the new MPU connection might me taking a hit (bending pins on the replacement MPU) when you install the board. Check the motherboard connectors for obvious damage. Look close with a flashlight. If you moved the game or laid game on its back, quarters could slide under motherboard causing a short, even after you stand it back up.

Also close door while in input test page...the door open should "pulse" quickly from 0 to 1 over and over again. If not there is your problem."

[dabarnet]

Does anyone have a PDF copy of the Manual?
Thanks - Jonathan