LOOK what I bought!

[shortrackskater]

Still can't get my 809 to pay out correctly so I bought this! It's a Bally 742. I will do the big clean up soon and post another picture. The man I bought it from just said it didn't work. I re-set the breaker and it powered up...coin mech is messed up but it registers a coin manually and I already hit a payout... I got a TIC, a TAC, and a TOE, in "any position" and the hopper started whirring. I'll probably get to it this weekend and replace bulbs, starters, etc... The top sign is illuminated from the bottom and I can't wait to see what that looks like.
Oh...how much did I pay???
$50 

[RiseLikeRa]

That is a FANTASTIC deal.  They are great 1 coin machines.  I had a Star Special from that era.  I believe there were 4 or 5 smaller machines made in that style.  The topper is a find by itself.  Enjoy!

Ra

[brettno1]

Great find, and great price.  Fixing these is half the fun of owning them (at least for me).   Post some more pics when you get it cleaned up.

[shortrackskater]

Thank you. I didn't realize they were this small either. This one is basically like my 809 but without the top award and multiplier. It's very stubby and I like it. I'll be doing some clean up today and hopefully get the lights working. Then I'll start on the machine. Thankfully the inside is clean and rust free! I still don't know a lot about these so feel free to comment, everyone.

[shortrackskater]

It's cleaner now. Picture coming soon. I do have some problems although I think they are minor. I now know why it "didn't work." Someone tied a wire so to the handle from the inside so it would not lock after each play. And the reason why the coin mech didn't work was a broken spring and a big chunk of paper stuffed in it to keep a coin from going in! Why do people do this? It's only a NICKEL machine! Spend the damn five cents!
So, with those things cleared up, it does take coins, cycle through and pay...other than the big payouts of 50 coins and more.
My first question is this: I pulled out the hopper to inspect the back for loose coins and other surprises. I did find coins, a sheared off bold, and some "missing" screws. I also found some duct tape around three wires. I pulled it off so I could replace it with something better. As the tape came off, it revealed two wires wrapped together and one attached to a pin that looks like it goes into the beau plug for the hopper. I wasn't sure if that had been attached to the other two so I didn't connect it. I'm not sure what it's for. The wire is TAN colored and it attaches to the bottom of the 5 amp fuse. The other wires were the white from the AC cord, which was attached to a black wire (just to reach) and also went to the bottom of that same fuse. Does anyone know where that tan wire goes and what it's for? I'm not sure if that's neutral or hot.
The only other problem I have is the front bulbs don't work at all. They are not burned out.

[shortrackskater]

Now don't all reply at once! What happened to OldReno??? Well it IS the Holidays. 
It's all working now. I traced the bulb power to the plug on the side and it was just a really dirty burned-ish pin. I repaired it and everything works. Unfortunately the reel glass is in poor shape. I cleaned it up best as I could and marked in (with a sharpie!) some of the red and used electrical tape to fill in the black. I seems to pay off okay too...maybe it just needed playing. Here's some "after" pic. The only thing I can't do is fully latch the door. I see nothing in the way either. 

[4 Deuces]

 

The pictures really look great!  Nice job!  I love the top payout glass.  Good find.

[shortrackskater]

Thanks. It's hard to see from the picture but the top plexiglass sign is illuminated from the bulb underneath it. I'll try and post a "night" shot later!

[OldReno]

To get your door to latch, take a big screwdriver, and twist/pry on those 3 tabs on the cabinet side so they come out toward you.  Or pop them out with the loop end of a wrench.  Or loosen the screws and do it the right way.   Assume door linkage closes with door open???
Nice find.  Good work!
You're right, they are stubby....

[shortrackskater]

I tried that and door still wouldn't close but I could see the lower part of the door wasn't flush. Then I noticed the lower switch was bent slightly. I pried it to the left and the door closed! The wires had been cut off so I just removed the switch. Does anyone know what it was for? There's also a weird looking aluminum triangle just to the left of that switch that has a large cap and some other parts in it. I wonder what that's for? I'll dig through my Bally book and see but if anyone knows off hand, let me know.
Now I need to find a replacement reel glass for it. I wonder if they're impossible to find???  
Here's a picture of the pesky switch that was preventing the door from closing and also I'm posting a shot of the inside. This machine was surprisingly clean inside.  
Also...still wondering what that tan wire is for...it's posted in pictures above.

[shortrackskater]

I tried that and door still wouldn't close but I could see the lower part of the door wasn't flush. Then I noticed the lower switch was bent slightly. I pried it to the left and the door closed! The wires had been cut off so I just removed the switch. Does anyone know what it was for? There's also a weird looking aluminum triangle just to the left of that switch that has a large cap and some other parts in it. I wonder what that's for? I'll dig through my Bally book and see but if anyone knows off hand, let me know.
Now I need to find a replacement reel glass for it. I wonder if they're impossible to find??? 
Here's a picture of the pesky switch that was preventing the door from closing and also I'm posting a shot of the inside. This machine was surprisingly clean inside. 
Also...still wondering what that tan wire is for...it's posted in pictures above.

Still curious about the door switch and the tan wire...if anyone knows I'd love to hear an answer.

[brettno1]

The door switch is connected to the meters.  When the door is open And the switch released, the meters won't advance.  This was done so that when slot techs  were testing the machine they wouldn't  change the coin in and coin out counts and thereby change the statistics for the machine.

[shortrackskater]

The door switch is connected to the meters.  When the door is open And the switch released, the meters won't advance.  This was done so that when slot techs  were testing the machine they wouldn't  change the coin in and coin out counts and thereby change the statistics for the machine.

Thanks! Makes me want to get a new switch and reconnect. I like hearing the meters clicking!
Any idea what that time wire (pics above) is for?

[brettno1]

Not sure about the wire.  Old Reno is really good with the wiring, you might want to ask him.

[OldReno]

So what's the serial # of your machine?  The door interlock there is a retrofit, and perhaps the meter kill function was not installed on your machine.
It looks like an early build, for sure. Is that yellow heat shrink, or cloth insulation?
Shorttrack, I don't understand your last question...
Try splicing them together, or jumper them to see if your meters work.  If they don't work currently (pun), that's your problem methinks.

[shortrackskater]

So what's the serial # of your machine?  The door interlock there is a retrofit, and perhaps the meter kill function was not installed on your machine.
It looks like an early build, for sure. Is that yellow heat shrink, or cloth insulation?
Shorttrack, I don't understand your last question...
Try splicing them together, or jumper them to see if your meters work.  If they don't work currently (pun), that's your problem methinks.

Thank (again) OldReno...I'll splice the wires...hope they're there! I'm not home to look now. I'll get you the s/n of the unit. I do remember it was made in 1967. The other question was on a wire that I found wrapped with duct tape with some other wires. I removed the duct tape to clean it up and a tan wire just came out. I don't think it was connected to anything since the machine seems to function fully. I'll repost the picture here. Thank you.

[OldReno]

I'm guessing it was to a 120V plug for plugging in soldering irons or a light.  Looks like it goes to your 120V fuse...?  If so, either replace the plug, or cut that wire off, or tape it up really good so it doesn't contact anything.  Danger, Will, Danger!!!

[shortrackskater]

Thank you!!! It's taped now...I'll just nip it off.  
That's as close to a robot I can get!
OH...that insulation is cloth.

[shortrackskater]

s/n is 10465
Cloth insulation on the wires going to that weird modification and there's no wires to the now removed switch! Looks like someone clipped them out long ago. I'm trying to carefully clean and lubricate everything. It seems to be working fine. Once in a while it spits out 4 coins for a 2 coin pay but it's just been very few in over a hundred spins. I think I'll just leave that alone. But when the door was open, I bumped my arm on a nail! Looked to see someone stuck a nail used to hold a wire UNDER the piece from the CC area      - maybe to keep it from buzzing. I removed it and it works fine...no noise.

[OldReno]

Looks like they wanted to hold the diverter closed so that all coins went into hopper rather than down into the drop bucket.  That coil is controlled by the wiffle ball in your hopper.  Ball is lifted, coins go to drop.  Ball drops down, coil engages, coins go to refill hopper.  You should see that coil and arm engage as you lift the wiffle ball.

[shortrackskater]

Looks like they wanted to hold the diverter closed so that all coins went into hopper rather than down into the drop bucket.  That coil is controlled by the wiffle ball in your hopper.  Ball is lifted, coins go to drop.  Ball drops down, coil engages, coins go to refill hopper.  You should see that coil and arm engage as you lift the wiffle ball.

Ohhhh..that makes sense! Thank you, again. Now I need to go on the hunt for some new glass or labels for the reel glass, if they exist.