No Sound on Universal Machine

[StatFreak]

rilaw
« on: July 28, 2008, 01:25:26 PM »   

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I posted this in the "Repair Logs" Forum, don't know if it was to go here instead(Sorry, noob)?  So to play it safe, I figured I'd post it here as well.  I also added a pic..

Hello to all, new slot owner here with an issue.  I purchased a "Double Jackpot" (I'm guessing that’s the name since that’s what is on the reels, no model number on the plate, says "Wild Bar" on the belly glass) Universal machine a few weeks ago.  The seller thought it was broken and I obtained it cheap.  I replaced all the bulbs, cleaned it up good, plugged in the hopper, and reset the machine.  It now works great, except there is no sound at all from the machine.  I obtained a manual, ran all self tests, etc. to no avail..  The speaker is ok.  I noticed one chip on the MPU board, which has "Sound" on it, and an empty socket next to it.  Is there a "Mute" function?  Do I have a missing or bad chip?  Any Ideas? (Yes, I tried the volume knob)  I can take any photos etc. to aid in fixing this issue.   

Also, is there a way of disabling the coin diverter?  I do not have a slot base, so my machine is on the floor.  I propped it so it only sends coins to the hopper (Otherwise the coins go on the floor underneath since there is no coin box).

Thanks in advance, Great Forum!!

[StatFreak]

dpalmi
« Reply #2 on: July 28, 2008, 01:36:57 PM »   

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It now works great, except there is no sound at all from the machine.  I obtained a manual, ran all self tests, etc. to no avail..  The speaker is ok.  I noticed one chip on the MPU board, which has "Sound" on it, and an empty socket next to it.  Is there a "Mute" function?  Do I have a missing or bad chip?  Any Ideas? (Yes, I tried the volume knob)

Hello!

Used to own a Universal myself.  How do you know the speaker is ok?  On my Universal - if you turned the volume knob up there was ALOT of static that came from the speaker.  Are you able to hear any static?

Also, is there a way of disabling the coin diverter?  I do not have a slot base, so my machine is on the floor.  I propped it so it only sends coins to the hopper (Otherwise the coins go on the floor underneath since there is no coin box).

The coin diverter should only be diverting coins if it thinks the hopper is full.  There is a wire on the side of the hopper that connects to a metal sensor that detects the coin level in the hopper.  Do you have lots of coins in the hopper?

Dan #2

uniman
« Reply #3 on: July 28, 2008, 03:02:46 PM »   

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Hi, and welcome to NLG!
There is no mute. You should have sound. Problem could be anywhere from the main board to loose wires or bad sound card.
Does the sound eprom have a sticker on it with numbers? The open socket at position M3 is fine as long as you have the right sound eprom.
As for loose wires; there is a six wire connector under the reel shelf in the back right. This comes from the mpu to the sound board located behind the volume knob. Check this connection. Then check the 36-pin black plug located in front of the power supply, goes to the door.
Unplug it and check every male pin and female socket, they can push out causing a bad connection. The speaker wires are on the far front left and second row far left, purple and dark blue.
As for the diverter, a common problem. Universal installed two different diverters, a 70 ohm and a 50 ohm. Each requires two different resistors on the MPU at positions R175 and R176. If mixed up (i.e. a 70ohm diverter with a 50 ohm type MPU) you can have problems.
Easy fix is to unplug the diverter and put a little clear silicon under the flap and adhere it shut.
Let us know how it goes, feel free to ask more questions!

Questions; Is there any static?
               Is there a sticker on the sound eprom with a number? 0822?


Jim

[StatFreak]

rilaw
« Reply #4 on: July 28, 2008, 06:23:34 PM »   

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Ok, I checked all the plugs, etc., still no sound.  There is nothing going to the speaker (Static, voltage, etc.).  I checked the speaker with an Ohm meter, fine, also ran an outside audio source to the speaker and it sounded good.  I just pulled the MPU and the sound chip has 0822 listed on it.  The M3, A1(Upper with dip switches), and A3 sockets are empty.  The board is a 8116-a2.  I also have one set of wires in the door which have been cut and wrapped in tape (2xbrn, blk, org, drk grn, light grn, blu, org/blk)(8) and a small wire with plug which has 3 wires(blk, brn, blu) unplugged.  Coin comp.?  Anyway, I pulled the sound board unit, checked it out, saw nothing noticeable.  Hope this info helps, I really want to hear sounds on this unit!   Thanks again!!!!

[StatFreak]

uniman
« Reply #5 on: July 28, 2008, 07:48:35 PM »   

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Hmmm, not gonna be easy.
On that six pin connector under the reel shelf check for 12vdc from the MPU (male end) on the bottom right red wire and bottom middle black ground, with machine on of course.
If this is good, then shut the machine off (not really needed, I just like to be as safe as possible) and check for continuity from the corner purple wire, bottom left, on the same connector to the purple wire at speaker. And the BLUE from the opposite corner, top, to the BLUE wire at the speaker. (corrected on 7/30/08)
No static at all sounds like no power or broken connection.

Your MPU looks ok, all eproms in the proper place.

The taped wires in the door are a concern??  Maybe the wires to the line lamps. (1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th lines, used in 3 and 5 line games)
Shouldn't be cut???
Calling it a night, I'll check back tomorrow afternoon.

rilaw
« Reply #6 on: July 30, 2008, 06:37:01 AM »   

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OK, I checked the volatge (11.10vdc), the purple wire checks out, the blu/blk (The other speaker wire is blue and the wire in the plug, right above the purple is blu with a blk stripe) DOES NOT CHECK OUT!  What next?

Again, thanks for your help!!

uniman
« Reply #7 on: July 30, 2008, 05:30:11 PM »   

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I'm sorry I posted that wrong. 
Not a black wire to the speaker, it is blue like you said. Check the solid blue wire from the connector to the blue wire at the speaker. Blue wire is opposite corner from purple wire.
If this checks out, it would seem you have a problem with the sound board or on the mpu.
If the blue speaker wire doesn't check out, then the connection at the 36-pin black plug is suspect.

rilaw
« Reply #8 on: July 31, 2008, 07:58:00 AM »   

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Ok, I found the break in the blue wire and repaired it.  I now get a humm from the speaker, which can be controlled by the volume control.  There is no music or slot sounds, just the hum...  Now what?

uniman
« Reply #9 on: July 31, 2008, 02:17:22 PM »
Now what indeed! 
It could be bad sound card, bad eprom on MPU, bad capacitor or IC chip on MPU, etc.
But before we dig deeper, check this. Often times a screw or coin can become lodged behind the MPU cage where all the wires are.
Powered off, take the MPU out and unscrew the cage. I think there are three screws in back and two on the side. Just pull it out enough to look for foreign objects behind it. The sound exits the MPU from the bottom of the upper connector. That's CN1, #28 on one side and "f" on the other.

When you get the chance, run test #9 with green test button. Write down the five repeating numbers in the win meter and post them. This will identify the game and machine eproms.

The taped wires in the door are still a concern. Can you post a pic with a view of the entire inside of the door and one of the front of the power supply?
Hang in there!!! I won't give up until we figure this out!!
 

[StatFreak]

rilaw
« Reply #10 on: July 31, 2008, 05:54:22 PM »   

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I pulled to board the other day, nothing in there.  I ran test #9, the numbers are: 98550 90009 98554 91004 91200. 
I have attached the pics you asked for as well as a shot of my new belly glass (eBay $7), the old one was smashed:)

Thanks for your time!

[StatFreak]

uniman
« Reply #12 on: July 31, 2008, 07:15:15 PM »   

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You said you took the board out, I meant the rack the board and case slides into. Often times behind that rack (officially called the PC board case holder)  screws or coins can lodge in there and cause shorts. It would be worth it to check it out by unscrewing the "case holder" and check the wiring.

I was looking at your dip switch settings in your earlier board pic and they don't match anything in my manual???
I have the feeling you may not need that sub-board at location A1. Some games do.
The 4-pac dip switch on your main board has #3 "ON" and this I believe means 1200 credit limit. If you turn it off and then reset the machine on startup it would change to 650 coin credit limit.
Your game is model number 8554 and the 1004 indicates your machine has a payback of only 87.219% The tightest Universal made for that game!
The machine chip version is 8550 with series 0009. I am not familiar with this machine chip although it was widely used. I don't have this one in my collection. The machine chip (at location A4) controls input/output functions while the game chip (at A2) controls the game theme.

It looks like your power supply is a "Yellow Dot". I can tell by the two 4amp fuses at the top. The original Yellow Dot was not used in machines with ballast lighting, it was for electronic 24volt starters. They then doubled up on the hopper power (110v) and increased the fuse rating from 3amps to 4amps. Most of mine have the same.

knagl
« Reply #13 on: August 01, 2008, 05:08:22 AM »   

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Continued good luck on your quest to get your sound up and running.

A note on your belly glass -- I believe you want a "Double Jackpot" belly glass -- Mag 7's was a different game.  You might want to try posting a "WTB" (Wanted To Buy) message in the classifieds forum of this message board to see if anyone has one to sell you.

rilaw
« Reply #14 on: August 01, 2008, 07:50:20 AM »   

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I know, I grabbed the Mag 7's glass because it was the only Universal glass I have seen on eBay so far.  My machine had the "Wild Bar" belly glass on it, which was wrong for the machine, and was smashed (It was held togather with tape and looked bad).  I only paid $7 for the new glass so I'm happy for now.

Thanks..

[StatFreak]

rilaw
« Reply #15 on: August 07, 2008, 08:24:27 PM »   

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THE SOUND IS FIXED!!   THANKS to UNIMAN!!!  The sound chip was bad!  I swapped it out with the one Uniman sent me, powered it up, and she spoke to me:)  Its not the clearest sound I have ever heard from a speaker(Sounds like the THD rating on the amp is crap), but it sounds good!  I also want to thank BlueRidgeslots for the correct belly glass for my machine.  I like the Mag 7's look better (And may swap it back in), but for now, it looks the way it should..  Great Forum, excellent members!!

[StatFreak]

CaptainHappy
« Reply #16 on: August 07, 2008, 11:45:06 PM »   

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Glad that it all worked out for you! Another KUDOS to NLG and its awesome members!!!  That is what it is all about! 

I have to agree with you that the magnificant 7's glass does look a little bit better, and it sounds more exciting. I think that you may have the right idea to keep it stock, and rotate every so often! You machine will love the attention! 

CaptainHappy 
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