Test button???

[riothecat]

I will wait for my clear chip and then post back. Thanks for all the help to this point

[Buzz]

OK  If you have the 61 flashing in the winner paid window that is exactly what you have, last time machine paid out it paid 61 coins. If you have 61 in the credits window you have a 61 error.  As for as I can see this friggen machine has never had a 61 error in this thread.

We know the power harness from the power supply to mother board is not good. Me I question if the test button is any good or maybe a broken wire from test button to mother board. And now looks like the optics are junk.

Bypass the optics, run a small gauge wire from the Black/red tracer door side to Green  optic wire cabnet side and let us know what happened.  DO NOT DO A CLEAR

[riothecat]

Does it matter that the 61 is not flashing?
I tested continuity from test switch to motherboard for test button, good.
I close door turn key get a 007 in top to windows with alternating 0 and 1 in bottom window.
Top light flashes and bottom light is flashing twice as fast.
If I turn key and hold and press spin reels 4 or 5 times the reels spin right to left and stop same spot.
And it will as long as I press spin wheels 4 it 5 times.

I feel as though we may have stumbled upon something here.

Thoughts???

[AnDaLe!]

Actually, the 61 does not flash and is in the winner paid window.  Now that my machine is running, i cannot replicate the 61, but i just checked the manual and the tilt codes are in the winner paid window.  If you have a solid 61 in the winner paid window immediately after a power up cycle and BEFORE touching anything, then you have a 61 BAD CMOS error.

At that point you would hold the test switch until a ding, then should have a 61-1 (which I know is not happening for you).  This will happen before closing the door and before touching the reset key.  If you cannot get to a ding and a 61-1 then closing the door is not going to do you any good and is not an indication that your door optics are bad.

Can you confirm exactly what happens upon power up with the door open?  What you get what and where on the display BEFORE doing anything other than trying your test switch to get the ding and the 61-1?

[riothecat]

I turned it on. Before I shut the door I have a 61 in the winner paid window. Top light flashing bottom light flashing 2times faster. Door still open.... Your turn

[riothecat]

Ok on the optics the door has a glass shield. The machine side has a glass eye. No flashes from either side with iPad camera. The wires on the door side... Before the clip purple and green after the clip black and pink (red) machine side before clip green and yellow after the clip white and red. None of three  have tracer colors, the purple on the door side could be a purple with black tracer.

[Buzz]

DON"T cut any wires !!   Unplug the optics plug,  stick one end of your jumper wire into the female end of the plug and replug them tograther.  Do the same thing on the other end. If you need to pretend the door is open or closed, cut the jumper wire, connect it together for door closed disconnect for door open.  Make sure it doesn't touch ground.

OK door side it is Black with Purple. Cabnet side the wire thats Green sometimes it has a different color tracer. 

[riothecat]

So put jumper wire on the black with purple on door side and the machine side on he green? And do not touch any metal

[Buzz]

I don't know how to explane it any other way.  You are only going to use one jumper wire. Connect it to the Black Purple on the door and the Green on the cabnet.

[riothecat]

Ok did that.

[riothecat]

After that I pulled coin hopper out and pushed in and now have a 3100 in winner paid.  I'll post more tomorrow after 530 eastern time. Thanks o much. I feel we re making progress

[Buzz]

3100 should clear by opening and closing door. Which now means you must disconnect and reconnect jumper wire.

[riothecat]

Did that. At least 61 quarters in it. Still same. I'll check tomorrow for more suggestions. Thanks again

[AnDaLe!]

A rundown:

You got a Tilt code of 12.

You replaced the battery and tried the CMOS ground trick that did not work for me either.

You may or may not have had both the new battery and the CMOS chip backwards, but in the end you got a 61.

You got a  replacement board.  I assume you installed your game and reel chips.  I also assume there was a CMOS chip on the new board and you did not pull the old one to use it on the new one.

After ALL of that, and immediately upon power up, you still get a 61 and you get nothing when you push and hold the test switch.  Same thing happening with BOTH boards.  If you don't get a ding and a 61-1 then there is no reason to continue on without finding out why your test switch function is not working.  Without a 61-1 there is no reason to be concerned with the door optics, as you need the 61-1 BEFORE you close the door.

I know you said you tested the test switch.  I assume that means you used a continuity tester and got a buzz when pushing the button??  If you did, then I would trace the wires all the way back to the motherboard.  On my unit the MPU is a simple lift and remove, but from what I understand yours is the older design.  I also have my test switch next to my power switch, so I have no idea what yours looks like, but I do know it is down in the MPU board area, about half way down and in front of it.  I would REALLY be concerned as to why you get no response from this switch.  I would try tracking it all the way back to the connector and try jumping it there while in the 61 state.  Jump it for about 3 seconds to see what you get.  DO NOT TOUCH THE KEY during that time.

The same as you, while in a 12 and even in the 61, by turning the reset key I got all different kinds of displays.....but that was because I was in the stats program due to turning the key to see what would happen.  Somewhere in there I even got a 3100.  I also learned that you do not need to be concerned about the hopper until you get past the 61.  I actually bought a hopper thinking mine was dead...ordered it with my clear chip......did not need it.  My old hopper is fine.

Considering that your machine was fine for 2 years, then you got a 12, then you changed the battery......and what followed that has resulted in a 61 TILT ERROR.....based on my very recent BUT limited experience, I still say your #1 issue right now is to find out why your test button is not working.

[riothecat]

AnDaLe!... Very nice summations. Everything is correct as you have it except the battery was never in wrong. I have tested the tester switch to the mother board(pulled harness and tested thru the harness). So switch has continuity to the motherboard. I'm sorry this is baffling but in my karmatic life this is typical of problems that I encounter. Thank you very much.

[AnDaLe!]

OK, so from the point that the switch connects to the motherboard (the connector), you get an on and off when testing the switch?  You are attaching your probes in the connector and getting an on/off response when you push the test switch?

[riothecat]

OK, so from the point that the switch connects to the motherboard (the connector), you get an on and off when testing the switch?  You are attaching your probes in the connector and getting an on/off response when you push the test switch?

Yes I am getting response to multimeter through the harness.

[CommTech]

I completely agree with AnDaLe!! The Error 61 TILT code should be addressed FIRST.   
It is entirely possible that the door optics may not even be activated until the Tilt is cleared. 
Stick with your original plan and wait for the CLEAR chip.  Once you use the Clear chip, then we can proceed as necessary. 
Right now your machine is telling you that you have a bad CMOS Eprom, which is normally correctable by the test button.
The test button should re-load the data located in the EEPROM back into the CMOS RAM.  The fact that it is not working MAY indicate corrupted EEPROM data. 
Using the CLEAR chip should reset any corrupted data back to factory defaults. 

[AnDaLe!]

Not that we needed this to add to the mystery, but I just picked up an S+ Double Diamond.  Built in 96 with a 10mz MPU mounted in the back, like my existing machine.  The guy was selling it because it did not work.  12 Tilt code.  I told him it was just the battery and offered to change it for him, but he still wanted to sell it.  Got it for $300 with a metal stand and 2-500 count bags of tokens he never used.  No bill acceptor, it had been removed (he got it on ebay).

I changed the battery, powered up, got a 61.  DID NOT GET ANYTHING WHEN HOLDING THE TEST SWITCH.  I know the test switch worked because i used it while still in the 12 state.  Went ahead and closed the door and turned the reset one quick turn.  All went blank for a moment, then reels spinned, then I had an insert coin light.  Dropped coins and got play.  DID NOT GET TO A 61-1.  Only thing I can think is that I got a normal response to a 61 instead of getting caught in the 61-1 loop.

Rio, what happens when from power-up, and then a 61, then closing the door and a quick single turn of the reset key?  What do you get on your displays?  Very important not to turn that key more than one quick time at this point.

[CommTech]

AnDaLe!, did you notice if the candle was still flashing AFTER you closed the door, but BEFORE you turned the reset key?
I also take it that the 61 TILT code stayed on the display until you turned the reset key?

[AnDaLe!]

I should have paid more attention, but I was not expecting anything to happen.  I am pretty sure the 61 was there until I turned the key, but I am not 100%.  This machine came without the candle installed, it was down in the stand.  Guess I better get it attached!

[knagl]

For what it's worth, some of the really old SP chips don't go to 61-1, the game just spins up after you go through the process.  Most SP chips follow the 61, 61-1, cleared pattern, however.

[AnDaLe!]

Then if that is the case on this machine it would not respond after a 61 when pushing the test button....just like mine did today.  At that point, shut the door, turn the key, and see what happens.  What is the immediate display?

Found some interesting related info in an old post from 2009 that is worth reading.  Talks about a machine doing similar stuff and 3100 and door optics.

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=4386.0

[CVslots]

Wow...lots of posts on this one....

[OldReno]

A silly question: Are all of your socketed chips in facing the right way?  You can feel a notch in one end of each of them, and if any one of them is in wrong that will cause problems.