Test button???

[riothecat]

I don't get a ding, I don't get a61-1 my top candles are blinking top bottom is 2 to 3 times quicker then top.

[Buzz]

Without going back and reading this whole thread. assuming your jackpot switch is good and also assuming the main door optics are good, one other thing that will cause you not being able to clear a 61-1 is the cash can door thinks it's open. I suggest bypassing the cash can door switch  ( Just cut the two wires and connect them together. )    http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/gamechange.htm

From the above link.     Note: - A Common problem that occurs after a game change is that you will see a 61- 1 code  after you hold the test button in and hear the "Ding" but you close the door and turn the reset key and nothing happens. This is usually caused by an open door to the cash storage container or a misaligned Bill validator. - Check all your doors to be certain they are completely closed before closing the main machine door.

[riothecat]

I have a coin hopper but no cash can unless they are the same.  I also don't get a 61-1 just a 61

[riothecat]

Nothing has changed. Does anyone have new advice, should I start a new thread? I am most impressed with this forum. Somebody please help me

[genebopp]

I am far from one of the experts, but I am here now.  The cash can is where the dollar bills end up.  There is a door right under the slot where the bills go in.  The cash can is inside of that.  That little door might have a little switch inside that could be giving you problems.  Buzz is an expert and I only understand what he was telling you not why to do it.  He wanted you to make sure that the cash door switch was bypassed my touching the wires together.  The last owner may have done that already.  Push the little white button for a few seconds, hopefully hear a ding, shut the door making sure the latch is all the way down, then turn the Jack pot key once.  I think that is all the instructions.  I hope that works out.  Like I said, I understand the instructions, but have little actual knowledge. 

[riothecat]

I appreciate your help, all of you. I don't have a bill acceptor. It only takes coin. Here is all I have in a nut shell.    I received a 12 code in the winner paid window. I installed a battery. I turned it on and had nothing.the button I can find is on the MPU case. Nothing happens when I press it . If I press it for a moment and release it and turn the reset key I get my spin reels button to light up and then get all kinds of different numbers to show up. Some times if I press it enough the reels will spin but they spin right to left. Then nothing after that.

[Buzz]

genebopp  Thanks for the vote of confidence but if I'm a expert the folks posting on the forum for help with a S+ are in trouble. I just made the mistake telling him about the BV door and his machine doesn't have a BV, coin handling only.

riothecat    I'm guessing your stuck in the 61 loop that I've heard about. Read this thread maybe that will help.  http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=17334.0

The cmos they are talking about is right next to the Game chip, just pull it out and short the legs out on a piece of metal.  All the chance in the world your gonna need a clear chip.  On boot up it's normal for the reels to stop    3, 2, 1 in that order.

[riothecat]

Ok took CMOS out but legs on metal. Put back in and turned on. Nothing. Pushed button shut door turned key nothing, however something new... There are 4 round black canisters with a black piece of metal that got very hot to touch. What ever have I done???

[riothecat]

Now it's adding to the 4 counters on the right side turning it off does not sound good

[riothecat]

No replies in over 24 hours... Now I'm officially worried. 

[genebopp]

I am kinda feeling for you.  While not really slot machine advice, it is how i deal with everything that I need to "fix".  Step 1 is make damn sure its broke.  (i think you have done that).  Step 2 is experiment (since it cant get worse than broke.... )  While your problems are way over my head here is what I would do.  Reshort the chips you have already done just to make sure that there is no hope of a free/easy fix.  If that doesn't work order a clear chip, they are cheap and you might end up needing one anyway.  If none of the free and cheap things work I would start throwing parts at it.  Since it used to work till the battery went dead and you touched the mpu I would start by replacing the MPU board.  I dont know if you have to use the clear chip on a replacement board or not, but you will have one since that was a much cheaper thing to try before buying the board.  That would be my order of blind guesses. 

[shortrackskater]

Make sure your CMOS chip isn't in the wrong direction!
Otherwise...are you still getting the 61 and no ding? When you replace the battery, if you've turned the reset switch, I believe you have to do a clear on the mpu. I think you're in the 61 loop. Report back soon as you can.

[poppo]

Ok took CMOS out but legs on metal. Put back in and turned on. Nothing. Pushed button shut door turned key nothing, however something new... There are 4 round black canisters with a black piece of metal that got very hot to touch. What ever have I done???

Coming into this thread late, but those "canisters" are capacitors and they should not be getting hot.

What is the current status of the machine?

Did you install the battery the correct polarity?

[riothecat]

Yes battery is correct. The 4 capacitors are not getting hot there is a  metal thing just above that got really hot as I was pushing the button. I'll check the chip again (still working). Again I thank all you for the help.

[poppo]

Ok, that is just the heat sink and will get hot.

The more detailed description you give us, the easier it will be to help. For example.

'The door is open and I turn on the machine and this is what it does: <list what is lit, what is displayed, what is flashing, etc.>'

While these machines are not that complicated, there are specific sequences of steps to take when troubleshooting problems.

[riothecat]

Thank you poppo. I will be home soon and will check the CMOS chip. And the from there???

[riothecat]

Ok I checked the CMOS, I had the chip in wrong ( banging head on beer bottle) the battery is installed with the + mark on the battery up ( there is a + mark on the board as well.) 8 am now back to the 12 code measured the volts in the battery and it's new and am only getting less then 3. Will order a new one. With info I have here do I have the battery installed correctly and did I screw it up by having the CMOS chip backwards? Thanks again for all you have done...

[stayouttadabunker]

This is important...when reinstalling the MPU this last time....power down then take it out and check the 4 black capacitor "cannisters"...are they still very hot?  
If so, then 1 of 2 things happened...>>>

1). Upon installing the MPU into the floor motherboard - you bent a pin on the bottom of the motherboard.
The fix: Power off the machine and remove the MPU and very carefully inspect all of the pins to make darn sure every one of them are perfectly straight.


                                                                       or

2). It's very possible that when you soldered in the MPU battery that it was upside down or the re-soldered leads somehow shorted a nearby board trace.
The Fix: Make sure the battery traces are intact, not shorting out anywhere and re-check the voltage of the new battery before re-soldering it to the MPU pads. Careful inspection is the only way to see anything. If you have a high resolution camera...pictures close up of the battery area and capacitor areas could help you too! We have very good eyes around here!

Poppo is right on the money when he said the more detailed your reports to us - the better we can help you!  


OOps! For some reason I missed all of the above posts? I will read your updated posts now.

[stayouttadabunker]

The wrongly installed CMOS chip...does it appear to be burnt on top at all?
Did the labeling get mis-colored or "heated" up?
If so, it may not be any good now.
Please carefully inspect the pins on the bottom of the MPU board too....make sure none are bent or folded into each other causing shorts or any kind.
uh...check the voltage of the "new" battery BEFORE re-installing onto the MPU battery solder pads as well.
You'd be amazed sometimes how low some "New" batteries are! 

[stayouttadabunker]

Here's some video clips I made a while back that might help...>>>

http://youtu.be/Pan8k8OjIgM

http://youtu.be/XH3N-prFZJ0

[stayouttadabunker]

Some more hopper stuff...>>>

http://youtu.be/GAkVj8olMHE

Here's a way to test your hopper while out of the machine....plug the cord into a power strip that has an on off button to turn the hopper on and off if you want....probably safer too! LoL ...>>>

http://youtu.be/qsea8ltUwWk

[poppo]

Having the CMOS in backward would have drained the battery and probably also caused the heat sink to get hotter than normal. Most likely it's cooked. 

[riothecat]

What is cooked? The board, battery, tht CMOS chip???

[riothecat]

Ok I let it sit for a few days turned it on and there is  a 61. Now what are the next couple of steps

[shortrackskater]

Okay you're back to ground zero again...I think.
With the 61 showing, hold the white test button...should take 2 seconds...you should hear a DING. Then close and LATCH the door, turn the reset key one time. It should work, unless your CMOS is fried.
Report back... also read this entire thread again... most of the next steps are here...but report back asap.