M+

[theDotster]

Hi,

Anyone know which this is?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=300300025144

Also, do you think there are progressive displays behind those two jackpot windows in the top glass, and is that likely to be one of those scrolling displays under the reels?

Finally an IGT not located too far away from me, any advice greatly appreciated.

Paul

IGT Super Cherry

Jackpot Club

One Arm Bandit

 

Here we have a one arm bandit made by IGT, dated 1988, it is

currently not working, all powers up ok, but will not accept tokens, also

has some test menu i cannot figure out, i have only just bought this

but i did'nt realise it took up so much room and when the misses see

it she went mad!! Item is in good condition for age, and will make a

great project for someone, please no technical questions as i know

nothing about it, this item is sold as seen with no warranty implied, i will

be happy to help with any other questions.

 

Sizes are: Height = 47 Inches

                  Width = 18 inches

                  Depth = 19 inches

 

Cash On Collection Only

[StatFreak]

I think it's an M slot, but wait for the others to confirm.

[Brianzz]

I believe all the games with the window just below the reels in the center are M slots. Although a rare 4 reeler for sure. Those are displays in the top, just stickers it looks like. May have been hooked up to a Mikohn like system for the 2 jackpots, may be the reason it's not working.

[Jim]

The only way to really know is to peek inside!  It could be a M or a M+,  The M machines had the card cage located above the reels, it contained the main CPU logic board and the sound board.   The M+  machine had the logic board located under the reels and to the left. It also had a removable logic board assembly similar to the S+.  Both used the Reel  LED  display , some of the later M+ machines used the right mounted display . The same one used on a S machine.

Jim

[theDotster]

Thanks guys.

I've asked for some pics of the inside. I'll post back when/if I get them.

Cheers

Paul

[knagl]

Frank A had one with one of those displays that he said was a S or S+ -- see this post.

My guess for the progressives is that it may have used the IGT mini-photon stand-alone progressives (a dual meter setup) and the little displays would go in those windows on the glass (hence the red tint in the windows, too).  The displays/controller have probably been removed from the machine, and someone printed those little inserts and taped them to the glass.

If you get the machine, and it's an S+, and you get the game up and running, it would be possible to purchase the stand-alone progressives and get them installed.

Edit: Here's another old post of someone with two machines with that LED display below the reels, and they were S+ games.

[blueridgeslots]

Hera are some pics, don't let the center Dot Display set the game type, they are common in Europe from US Military bases, 10 coin games needed these, but can run others and the M used it as a display, my money is the game being asked about is a Early M+, if S it would have a display to right of reels, I have put pics of a M Slot up as well as Dual Level IGT Progressive in an S Slot (Not S Plus) as well as a S+ like Frank A's with the center Display the game Pictured has the Huge IGT Progressive top unit in it (Boat Anchor) as well as a 4 Reel IGT Dual Level Display

[blueridgeslots]

Dual Level and S+ with Dot Display

[knagl]

Aah, Jim is totally right about the LED displays to the right of the reels -- the ones that I linked to had them, the one in question in this thread does not.

[theDotster]

Well I've got some more pics, still trying to get one of the inside of the top box to see what's in there. But going by Jim's description, this looks to be an M+.

Are parts availalble for this? I like the machine and would go to about $180 or is this too much for it, I haven't seen one on ebay to have an idea?

[theDotster]

more...

[theDotster]

last.....

There is a grey wire that looks to behanging loose near the coin mech, could this be the problem with not accepting tokens?

[Slottex]

LOOKS LIKE A BLACK AND PURPLE BROKE OFF FROM THE COMPARITOR. THAT WOULD KEEP IT FROM WORKING.

[Slottex]

THERE SHOULD BE 6 CONNECTIONS ON THE HARNESS-

#1&3 JUMPED WITH YELLOW WIRE
#2 PURPLE
#4 YELLOW
#5 BLANK
#6 BLACK

[theDotster]

Slottex,

Which harness are you looking at, too the right of the coin or underneath?

[Slottex]

UNDER THE COIN BOTTOM LEFT OF THE COMPARITOR.

[theDotster]

Thanks Slottex, I see it now. Seems an easy fix on that if thats all it is.

Not sure about the rest of the issues!

Can I expect the usual 'plincky plincky' random sounds I've heard on the S+ when the reels spin?

Paul

[theDotster]

Topbox pic.

I assume the white bar hanging down on the right would be were the progressive meter would go?

Does anyone know if parts (PCB, Motherboard and progressives etc..) are still available for these machine. I'm getting desperate to get a reel slot now, but don't want to buy a lemon!!

Thanks

Paul

[theDotster]

Hi,

Well I managed to get my hands on this machine and it looks great, but I think there are a few things that may be wrong with it.

First I'm getting a battery error, I'm going to get that replaced on the PCB, can anyone confirm if it is the usual 3.6v job?

Also, in the picture coin1.jpg in a previous post, there is a diode with a broken leg at position 'CR1'. Is this normal?

I hope you can help.

Paul

[Jim]

Paul   Parts may be hard to come by,  IGT's  slot history is: M,  M+ , S , S+ ,S2k, I-game etc.  so That should give you some idea where you stand as for availability of parts.  The battery is 3.6 volt,  the diode being cut was a modification by home market so you could use something other than a coin comparator. The wire being broken is probably the cause of the coin rejection, you can bypass this by shimming the coil on the back of the comparator out so the "rake" is out of the coins path.

Common problem with units were the mechanical spin start, and recycle part on the front of the reel kicker. They unlatch and pull straight out, you will see the round cork like wheel ,these dry out and shatter, none available to my knowledge. I have used bearings of the same size and they work.

The other problem is the ribbon cable soldered to the connector on the reel kicker, many intermittent problems, have seen most of them hardwired,point to point.

I know this is not what you wanted to hear ,and again its only one person's opinion, will give you all the help I can.

[theDotster]

Jim,

Many thanks for the reply, in order:

The battery is 3.6 volt

Thank you for the confirmation, I've got one of those, so I just need to solder it on and then see what other errors I get.

the diode being cut was a modification by home market so you could use something other than a coin comparator.

First, does this mean I can leave it cut and the comparitor will work like normal or do I need to fix it? Second, what else would have been used and how does cutting this enable them to use something else?

The wire being broken is probably the cause of the coin rejection, you can bypass this by shimming the coil on the back of the comparator out so the "rake" is out of the coins path.

The wires have now been fixed so hopefully I'm OK on this part, which is good because I don't understand the shimming or rake part :-)

Common problem with units were the mechanical spin start, and recycle part on the front of the reel kicker. They unlatch and pull straight out, you will see the round cork like wheel ,these dry out and shatter, none available to my knowledge. I have used bearings of the same size and they work.
The other problem is the ribbon cable soldered to the connector on the reel kicker, many intermittent problems, have seen most of them hardwired,point to point.

I'l' have to look into these to see what they are like, I guess I'll know if the reels don't spin or stop?

I know this is not what you wanted to hear ,and again its only one person's opinion, will give you all the help I can.

To be honest I was expecting problems as it was descirbed as not working, but I got it for half the asking price and it was local to me so I thought it was worth punt, any american IGT doesn't come up often on ebay so I as getting desparate!

Thanks again Jim, and I will take you up on your offer of help I'm sure.

Is there any documentation available for the M+?

Paul

[Jim]

Paul    haven't had any luck trying to cut and paste and use  quote item!!!

Yes it will work with the diode cut.  The coin comparator and the ABC optics board communicated in some way and all this did was to disable that circuit.

Usually they put a plastic IMONEX acceptor in its place. this acceptor is a plastic molded acceptor with no moving parts. comes in various sizes,e.g.  quarter only, token only, different size tokens, etc.  the most common used was American quarter thru .984 token. therefore you could use tokens or quarters and not have to change anything.(sample coin in comparator) these were widely used in home sales for S+'s when coin comp. were had to come by.

Shimming and rake item!!!    on the back side of your coin comparator, there is a coil, it has two gray wires going to it. the coil consists of two parts, the coil itself and the actuator arm ( I call it the rake).  In the idle mode ( no coin coming in)  the coil is de-energized and the arm is sticking into the body of the coin comp.  if a different coin other than the sample comes in , that coin hits that part of the arm and is rejected and sent back to the coin tray. If how ever the coin is like the sample the the coil is energized and the arm is pulled out and the coin is accepted. so by shimming that arm so it is out all the time, then the coin comp. will pass every quarter put in to it.  this is used as a temporary solution  to test with or to play the machine if your comparator is not working and you are waiting on a replacement. You can see the relationship of the two items by pushing the top part of the arm with your finger and then releasing it.(its spring loaded so it will return by itself)

Have the complete service manual  two complete  binders , so once we see what works then we address each issue 


Jim     

[theDotster]

Thanks for the explanation of shimming 

I've put the battery in (first time of soldered something correctly!!).

I got the CMOS error I was expecting and pressed the white self test button for three seconds.

Now when I put on the power, I get a zero on the display and the sound of a motor somewhere in the reel assembly for about 2 seconds and then the word 'MOTOR' appears on the display and all goes quiet.

The motor sounds like its turning, so is this complaining because its jammed/seized or other?

Thanks.

Paul

[Jim]

THE MOTOR TURNS A bar via a rubber belt, on the bar are four cams, which correspond to the four reel assemblies. it is these cams that come in contact with the cork wheels I was telling you about. this resets the reel kickers from the previous spin.

you can remove the whole reel assembly  and inspect all of that : I think you can even turn the motor by hand and observe what happens.

Jim

[blueridgeslots]

Here are some pics.