Ghost in the Machine (Door Open M)

[jeff89129]

Looking for someone who can help me track down the "ghost" on my I-game slant top.
I keep getting the dreaded "Door Open M" message on a random basis. Sometimes it pops up in a matter of minutes,
sometimes it takes 3-4 days. THE FUNNY THING IS... it will sometimes clear itself.

I bypassed every single switch I could find, except for the optics, because I don't know how to do that.
When all else fails, I jumper the two leftmost wires on J11. That always works, but I want a working machine.

So I guess my questions are:
Anybody else had this issue? How did you resolve it?
Am I missing a switch?  I found 2 facing up in main door, 1 belly, 1 under cash box, 1 small switch for cash box door, and the optics.

Any input is appreciated.

[4 Deuces]

I've never had a slant top, but from all I've read, this is a common issue with slant tops.  There are several door optics that can get misaligned and display the dreaded, "DOOR OPEN M". 

Did you see these topics?

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1281.msg9170#msg9170

Also, this thread ... although a reel machine, it's a slant top with the same issues and possible solutions ..

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=739.msg4864#msg4864

Sorry I couldn't offer more.  Hope this helps!  :Dave

[jeff89129]

Hi Dave.
Thank you for the input.
I've tried to find the relevant postings, but my issue looks a little different than what I have seen posted.
(I've bypassed every switch I could find)
My big concern is; why is the door open clearing itself without anyone touching the machine?

I've tried looking at my optics through a digital camera, but I see no IR signal.
Am I doing it wrong?

[Amachanic]

I'm working on a Game King and I just finished by passing the main door optics. I took the wires from the optics on the lift up door, (red & Green wires), and pulled them back through the doors wires and cabinet wires, back around behind the monitor.. You have to remove the from a connector behind the monitor, and splice them back together if you don't want to add wire, or you need to add about 6-12" of wire to extend those 2 wires.. I finish by bring the wires from behind the monitor, then up the left side of the machine to the white switch located on the left side of the cabinet that the inside light uses.. Now take the 2 wires from the cabinet optics and run them to the same switch.. With my machine I had to use the purple wire from the latch optics, and the Green wire that I had fed around from the door optics. I crimped on push on connectors and hooked them up to the unused side of the left cabinet switch. One wire on the common side, and the other to the (N/0) normally open side.. This will let that circuit now work through the switch instead of the optics.. I then just took the two un-used wires, Green from the latch optics, and Red from the doors, and sealed them, or capped them off with shrink tube or tape works so they can't ground out.. I've attached a pic of my switch..

If you just want to test this first, run a jumper wire between the door and cabinet plugs. That's how I double checked mine before I started cutting and pulling wires...    

Gary

[cowboygames]

Wiring should be the same as in the S2000 door optics bypass procedure posted here on the site

[azgamingslots]

replace the suspected switch(s) they don't last forever, they get dirt, drinks etc inside them. ps you can view the infrared sending optic with a camera cell phone.

[jeff89129]

Thanks everyone for your input. 
I haven't tried to bypass the optics yet because the "ghost" went away.
I haven't had a door open since I typed my last post! Kinda like when you bring your car to the dealer,
the problem goes away.

[jeff89129]

 
OK, Scooby and Shaggy are helping me find my "ghost", so I think we're getting close.
I just found the service light in my slant top. It was burnt out, so I didn't know it existed
until I spotted it while looking for a double secret door switch. I bought a new bulb,
plugged it in, and it lit up like a champ. Problem is; I bypassed ALL (I think?) cabinet switches
by jumpering the two leftmost wires on J11. This gets my "door open" to go away, but...
Should the under cabinet service light be on if the door is not open? 

Is there a switch for the under cabinet light?

I'm thinking that IF the service light is switched, this is where my problem lies.

[CVslots]

Should the under cabinet service light be on if the door is not open? 

I am fairly certain it should go off when the main/top door is closed.

[cowboygames]

Cabinet light runs through the cherry switch, same thing you can run your door optics through if you choose to do the bypass. And don't be to concerned if it hasn't acted up for a while as far as choosing to bypass the door optics or not. For home use, bypassing those optics is just one way of eliminating potential/likely future problems and it's a relatively simple procedure. Good luck...

[jeff89129]

Thanks Cowboy.
I think I will bypass the optics.
But first I think I should put a switch back on the service light.
I still think that has something to do with my door open problem.

[cowboygames]

With normal IGT wiring setup the cabinet light is the only thing on that cherry switch and it being on or off has no effect on machine operation as the state of the light isn't tied into the motherboard or monitored by the machine. I've had bad cherry switches where the light wouldn't turn off and the machine doesn't care