Help igt s+ buzzing and flashing candle code

[Powerlinemanco]

Ok, I just acquired a double lucky sevens igt slot machine today. I brought it home in my truck and apparently some quarters were in it. They shifted when I loaded it and unloaded it. It was working perfectly when I went to oick it up. Brought it home and plugged it in and buzz and nothing. Blew 120v 6a fuse. Replaced it. Now when i close the door, the candle lights go out, the coin hopper tries to cycle and makes a loud buzzing sound. No led display either. I think it probably shorted out from the quarters laying somewhere they shouldn't have been. Any ideas what to do to try to trouble shoot this? I just really want to get it working.

Thanks in advance guys!
Eric

[CommTech]

Hi Eric,

Welcome!   

First thing you will want to do is to pull out your Hopper (lift off the coin tray and you can pull it straight out).
Next Lift out your MPU board.
Now search around and UNDER your motherboard for loose coins.
Hopefully there is just one rouge coin hiding on or under your motherboard that is causing the short circuit.
Once you are satisfied that all the coins are gone, replace the fuse that is blown, then the MPU board and hopper and try again.

 

[Powerlinemanco]

First of all, thanks so much for the fast reply this morning. I have done all that. Pulled out hopper, lifted mpu board, removed all quarters that I could possibly find after going through it with a flashlight. I am still having the same problem. I tried unplugging some connectors and looking to see if they looked burnt from a short, but found nothing. Any other ideas?

i am totally new to slot machines, so if I say something totally weird, please ignore it...

[CommTech]

If you have a multi-meter ...
With the MPU board removed and the machine AC cord unplugged: Pull the 6 pin power Molex plug and then ohm-meter the 6 power supply pins on the motherboard side (with reference to chassis ground) to see if you can find which pin is shorted.

See the attached document for reference...

[Powerlinemanco]

Ok. I'm going to get a multimeter. In the meantime here are a couple pics of the board and electronics. I looked all over and compared mine to others and think its an s+, but like I said I'm totally new to slots, so maybe it's best to have you guys verify or correct me.

[Powerlinemanco]

Here's the mpu

[Powerlinemanco]

Oh, I also made a video and uploaded it to YouTube because I'm not sure how to explain exactly what it is doing. Here's the link.
http://youtu.be/Iv3kiO_Fmcw

[CommTech]

OK. Never mind checking the molex for shorts.  Your machine is clearly possessed! 

Seriously though ... You do not have a short on the motherboard.

The machine is suppose to go through the cycle of spinning the reels ONCE after you close the door, then the coin in light should illuminate and it should be ready for play.

The fact that it keeps cycling is very strange.

Leave the Hopper OUT and try powering it up again without it to see if it starts correctly.

[CommTech]

Ok. I'm going to get a multimeter. In the meantime here are a couple pics of the board and electronics. I looked all over and compared mine to others and think its an s+, but like I said I'm totally new to slots, so maybe it's best to have you guys verify or correct me.

Yes. You have an Early style S plus machine.

[ROCKET]

cool you tube post
it acts like its getting a intermittent signal from the door optics that the door is closed then opened etc .. the BIRDS NEST OF WIRES to the
right off hopper have me worried   also since many look like bare ended wires hitting the steel cabinet ..
that's a early S-PLUS with a side mount DBV

i would check the wires going to the door optics located right by that latch when  you open the door they are inside of machine on the door and right side of cabinet to see if connections are tight or wires broken or almost broken or misaligned .. then isolate all those loose wires to right of hopper on the floor of machine and black tape the ends or wire nut them so they dont hit ground if they are alive ..

see what that brings you ..

[ROCKET]

HAVE POWER OFF OF COURSE UNPLUGGED WHEN CHECKING WIRES ON FLOOR OF MACHINE ..
 if bare ends of wires  are hitting steel cabinet etc ..

[Powerlinemanco]

Ok, here's a video after pulling the hopper. Will look at birds nest of wires when I get back from store in a bit. Thx so much guys!

http://youtu.be/AvUjmkJZnRM

[CommTech]

I am also noticing that you still do not have an LED display.  
Are you sure the fuse that was blown is not blown again?

After you get your multimeter, you can check to see if the voltages are correct on the 6 pin molex power connector.

[Jim]

on that type machine, when you move and lay the machine down, quarters will go from the hopper into the area BEHIND THE FUSE PANEL, I would check this area first and remove any foreign objects back there. PLEASE DO THIS THIS WITH THE  MACHINE UNPLUGGED, EVEN THOUGH THE POWER SWITCH IS OFF, THERE IS 115VAC GOING TO THE FUSE AS LONG AS THE MACHINE POWER CORD IS PLUGGED INTO A LIVE RECEPTACLE.  then recheck all the fuses again, with a meter, if you don't have a meter, you could use a flashlight as a crude meter,  one of two ways, bottom or top of flashlight, unscrew the top part, put fuse in between the lamp and the post it would contact coming from the battery, if the lamp comes on the fuse is good, if out the fuse is bad.

Lets make sure all the fuses are good first.

hope this helps

Jim 

[Powerlinemanco]

Ok, I have replaced all 3 fuses with new ones. I checked for any bare wires or lose or broken connections visually and found none. Still have no display, buzzing still happens with hopper in place, will ding once in a while if left on and door closed. Now white light flashes slow, yellow faster. Any other ideas guys?

[Powerlinemanco]

Jim, I also thoroughly inspected the machine again behind the fuse panel and everywhere else for any loose quarters and found none.

[Powerlinemanco]

Here is another video of what it currently is doing. It will randomly ding at me and if the hopper is in, the motor tries to turn and buzzes loudly like in first video.

http://youtu.be/q3uZc3mvSl8

[CommTech]

Ok, I have replaced all 3 fuses with new ones. I checked for any bare wires or lose or broken connections visually and found none. Still have no display, buzzing still happens with hopper in place, will ding once in a while if left on and door closed. Now white light flashes slow, yellow faster. Any other ideas guys?

Top of candle flashing slow and Bottom of candle flashing twice as fast indicates your machine door is open.  
Make sure the latch is completely down when the door is closed.  There is an optic emitter on the door that needs to line up with the receiver optic on the cabinet side.
If these are out of alignment you will get the candle flashing pattern you see.

[Powerlinemanco]

Comm tech, ok, so it is flashing like I stated above, then it stops for a few seconds, dings and starts flashing again.it repeats this pattern over and over, and if the hopper is in, the motor buzzes loudly every time it dings.also the reels do not even spin once now when I shut the door.

[CommTech]

Not sure why its repeating after a "ding".    But the candle is indicating that your door in open (optics not aligned or not working).  

If you point a digital camera at the Door side optic and look at it on your cameras monitor, you should see a faint flashing from the emitter when the emitter is working correctly.

By the way, your fuses should be SLOW-Blow type, since you are switching an inductive (transformer) load.

Did you happen to find a Multimeter to test with yet?

If you are missing a voltage, it is not going work correctly. 

[Powerlinemanco]

Ok, I see a faint pinkish purple light from the emitter. I didn't go get the multimeter since we decided not to test the board, but I still can get one.

I'm going to get one right now.

[CommTech]

When the optic is operational, that faint light should be flashing. It must have been working earlier since the reels did spin after the door was initially closed.
The important thing is to make sure that the emitter optic is aligned with the receiver optic on the cabinet side when the door is closed and the latch is down.

You should defiantly have a multimeter handy when testing the machine; You can check so many things with it and they are not very expensive. You can find them new for under $20.

 

[Powerlinemanco]

Ok, first of all, I looked a little closer at the diode and it is flashing. I ohmed out the molex connector and had no reference to ground on any wire. What next?

[CommTech]

Now check for proper AC voltages (as referenced in the document that I attached to the previous post Reply #3) on the 6 pin Molex connector:
You should see ~ 7 Volts AC between pins 2 and 3, ~ 8 Volts AC between pins 2 and 4 and ~ 24 Volts AC between pins 5 and 6.

[CommTech]

Ok, first of all, I looked a little closer at the diode and it is flashing. I ohmed out the molex connector and had no reference to ground on any wire. What next?

Did you ohm out the PINS on the Motherboard side in reference to ground?