Help igt s+ buzzing and flashing candle code

[Powerlinemanco]

Ok, I get 8.5 between 2-4, 24.6 between 5-6, nothing between 1-3. Ohmed pins on mb. Reference to ground of about 8.8 ohms on pin 3. All the rest had no reference to ground.

[CommTech]

Did you measure the voltages with the molex unplugged (on the wiring side) Between Green/Green wire and Blue/Blue Wire?  Check both Green/Green wires in reference to the Blue/Blue wire for the 7 VAC.

If the 7 Volts AC is still missing and you are sure the fuse is good, then UNPLUG the AC Cord from the machine and ohmmeter the same two wires for continuity.

[Powerlinemanco]

I haven't unplugged the wiring end because I honestly can't find it. I will check the continuity and both green/green to blue/blue when I get back to the house in about an hour.

[CommTech]

I haven't unplugged the wiring end because I honestly can't find it. I will check the continuity and both green/green to blue/blue when I get back to the house in about an hour.

I was referring to the six pin Molex that you pulled off the motherboard when you were checking the motherboard pins.  The other Molex plug on the opposite side of the wiring harness near the power supply as shown in my document doesn't exist on your version machine. 
You have an exposed Power transformer on your machine.

What I am trying to determine is if your 7 Volts AC transformer tap is in tact and working correctly.
When you originally measured the voltages on the Molex plug I don't know if the Molex plug was still plugged onto the motherboard, or if you pulled the plug off and measured the voltages.  

[Powerlinemanco]

Yes it was off the motherboard

[Powerlinemanco]

Ok, if I measure voltage between pin 2-3 I get 7 volts. Between pin 1-3 nothing. If I ohm out 1-3 I get nothing. 2-3 I get 1 ohm.

That is with the molex unplugged.

[CommTech]

After studying the schematic diagram for the S plus power supply and motherboard I have found an error in the voltage labeling as written in the official IGT manual. 
Pin ONE of the power Molex is NOT Common for  7 and 8 VAC as written in the manual.  It is actually the Center Tap of the 24 VAC output. 
I am very surprised that IGT would use the same color code for both wires, even though they are NOT interchangeable! 
 
So since you do have 7 VAC between pins 2 and 3, that is correct! 

I corrected my diagram chart as well ...(attached)

[Powerlinemanco]

This might sound stupid but, Great! So what now?

[Powerlinemanco]

I didn't mean for that last post to sound snarky, I really appreciate all your help.

[CommTech]

I went back to look at your videos again.
What I noticed was that the candle keeps indicating (flashing) that the door is open (in all three videos).
In the first video it would go out, "ding" and then restart.

The second and third videos showed constant open state.

Just for the heck of it ...
There is a white Test button located in front of the MPU chassis (where the harnesses plug into)...
PRESS and hold that white button for 3 seconds.  You should here that "ding" sound.
See if there is anything displayed on your LED display at that point.

[Powerlinemanco]

With mpu still out?

[CommTech]

Replace the MPU board first.

[Powerlinemanco]

No display, same as before we tested everything. Dings randomly.held test button for 3-5 secs. No ding, no nothing.

[Powerlinemanco]

I just checked continuity on the switch and it is good. Nothing when it is unpressed, continuity when pressed.

[CommTech]

Check one more thing ...
Turn the reset Key on the side of the machine once ...

Anything on the display?

[Powerlinemanco]

Door open or closed?

[CommTech]

I don't think it should matter if the door is open or not.

[Powerlinemanco]

Nothing. No display, just random dinging, and if the hopper is in its motor buzzes with each ding. I checked continuity on the reset switch, it's good.

[CommTech]

OK Eric.  I'll check back in tomorrow with some more troubleshooting suggestions.  Time for some  !

[Powerlinemanco]

Sounds great. Thanks so much.

[Buzz]

Powerlinemanco  Where do you live ??

[Powerlinemanco]

Colorado. Pueblo

[Buzz]

Well that let's that out, thought maybe you lived close to me.

Joe went to bed so let me ask you a couple of questions.  Have you had the wires unplugged from the mother board ?? If so two of them can be plugged back in in the wrong position and it will effect the display. Plugs J 5 and J 14 are the two.

Have you removed the 3 screws that hold the mother board to the floor and checked for coins under it.

From the video it sounds like the hopper is locked up and it's trying too pay out some coins, Your machine is not suppose to have a curcit breaker but that to me looks like what's going on.
Hopper is trying to pay out, it kicks a beaker, and when power comes back on you get a ding. By the way when machine is operating normal and you install the hopper when power is on you will get that same "ding" it's normal.

I think I would look close at the hopper and make sure it isn't locked up. On the motor side you will see a tab that has a small spring attached to it, this is the hopper brake. Hold the tab in with your left hand and with your right hand reach inside the hopper bowl and try turning the wheels. It's a gear box so it's kind of hard to turn . If your bored and want something to do, that bowl can be removed by 4 screws and two springs by the handle.

[Powerlinemanco]

I have removed the three screws and checked for quarters under the board, but I did not remove any other connectors other than the white molex connector I was testing. The machine is cycling the random dinging with or without the hopper in place. If I put it in than the dinging is accompanied by the buzzing of the motor on the hopper, but with it removed it will just ding randomly. The display still isn't working either. I have held the little stop open and turned the wheel inside the bowl. It is a little stiff, but it turns freely.

[Buzz]

Guess I'm out of ideas for now, damn I wish you lived close, I'd like to figure this thing out.