IGT S+ Help? All components have constant power, no LED display (error codes)

[CommTech]

Here is a picture of the battery. 

When tested in circuit, the +VB reads 5 Ohms, and 100 Ohms reversed.

There is a Filter Capacitor across the D2 Zener diode circuit.  If the capacitor has any hint of a charge on it, your resistance reading will not be accurate.
Again,  that diode has nothing to do with the Battery. 

[CommTech]

Let us know what is lit up or blinking (top, bottom or both) on your candle so we can determine what state the machine is currently in.

Also check for a loose or hanging harness plug connection to your LED board on the door. 

[tasseltrader]

Both lights(white/yellow) on the top candle are constantly lit(not blinking), after the machine goes through a quick diagnostic(startup).  The candle comes on just about the same time the hopper, coin acceptor,   and the solenoid on the pull-arm are activated, but there is no sound to be heard, only one time since ownership did I hear one "ding", and I even got kinda excited......

[CommTech]

Both lights on steady would indicate that the game is disabled.
You will need to replace your MPU battery and also check your LED door wiring.
The LED diagnostics will be a big help.

[knagl]

I really feel like something is shorted, causing all of the lights to be on and the hopper to run continuously.  His machine is not exhibiting normal behavior (at least, that I've ever seen).

[tasseltrader]

knaql,

If this was your machine, what would be your next step?  I would love to get this machine going, since it is my first machine, but if repairs exceed replacement, then plan B is ok with me........

[knagl]

Repairs won't exceed replacement by a long shot.  I'd guess that your MPU board and/or motherboard is fried, and I'd try putting in a pair of known working boards.  I haven't been in the market for either lately, but I'd hazard a guess that each board should set you back around $30.  If something is indeed shorted out, it's possible that your door optics have gotten blown out, too.  That's another $10 to $20.

Aside from that, there's really not much else that could be wrong with the thing (maybe the display board is fried, too, but I'd start with a known good pair of working MPU and motherboards).  S+ machines are tanks, and they're pretty simple machines, too.  I think it'll well be worth your while to get some replacement parts and get this thing up and running.

With the power cord unplugged, have you taken the cover off of the power supply to ensure that there aren't any coins/washers/bolts/etc. in there causing a short?

[CommTech]

I really feel like something is shorted, causing all of the lights to be on and the hopper to run continuously.  His machine is not exhibiting normal behavior (at least, that I've ever seen).

You may very well be correct. I am just attacking this thing in a logical order, and trying not to jump to any conclusions without proof.
One fact is that the machine will not operate correctly with a dead battery.
A dead battery would not cause the hopper to run, or the display to be blank, but those are separate issues.

If he had a spare MPU board, then I would agree that would be the First thing he should try swapping out. 


 

[CommTech]

Aside from that, there's really not much else that could be wrong with the thing (maybe the display board is fried, too, but I'd start with a known good pair of working MPU and motherboards).  S+ machines are tanks, and they're pretty simple machines, too.  I think it'll well be worth your while to get some replacement parts and get this thing up and running.

With the power cord unplugged, have you taken the cover off of the power supply to ensure that there aren't any coins/washers/bolts/etc. in there causing a short?

Brian,
I agree with Kevin on trying a new MPU board.  Would not hurt to have a spare anyway.  
Never a bad idea to check for loose coins around the machine, but the fact your fuses are all good and you have denomination and button lights and stiff reels, your MAIN power supply is fine.
The LED display gets it's supply from a rectified source on the MPU board.  If all your cables are secure on the LED board, then this is another reason to try another MPU board.

[tasseltrader]

I will take everyones advice and get a replacement MPU Board.  I searched ebay and websites, but the cheapest board I could find was $125.00 at Ohio Gaming.  Does anyone have any suggestions as to a cheaper source? So, I will replace MPU first, then if no fix, replace motherboard and possibly LED display board last?

When I checked the battery on my board it registered 0 on the volt meter. Should I bother replacing the battery and /or sending to a company to have MPU checked, or just scrap it?

Finally, I did a bad thing on my last effort finding answers to my problem.  I noticed that my reel prom was sitting in the carriage crooked, so I pulled it out, inspected prongs, and replaced it backwards by mistake    I realized it was backwards because everything on my machine was the same, but the hopper quit running. I re-inserted the reel prom the correct direction and everything is back to the wayit was, but have I now ruined this reel prom chip?? 

[CVslots]

You're probably ok if you are getting the same symptoms as before....but one has to wonder, how long was it inserted like that????

If you are buying a replacement MPU, then no need to buy a battery just yet for the suspect MPU. Don't throw away that MPU until it is absolutely, positively ruled out as the source. You will not be happy with yourself if the cause is found to be something other than MPU....

[knagl]

Post a WTB ad in the classifieds section of this forum stating that you're looking for a 10mhz S+ MPU board and an upright motherboard. I imagine you'll be able to get both for less than the price you found for the MPU alone.

[CommTech]

If you are buying a replacement MPU, then no need to buy a battery just yet for the suspect MPU. Don't throw away that MPU until it is absolutely, positively ruled out as the source. You will not be happy with yourself if the cause is found to be something other than MPU....

 
It is also possible that one of the EPROMS may have been bad all along.  
I would also recommend picking up a new set (GAME and REEL) of EPROMS along with the MPU board while your at it, just to cover your bases. 
Two more that may come in handy are the "SET and CLEAR" Chips.