Igt S2000 door wiring harness issues

[jacker]

Don't know If I should start a new topic or not. Had a very long topic with my Triple Double Diamond, bringing it from a lot of parts to a semi working machine. You guys helped me a lot and I was gone to give up on it, but I just can't!! No quitter. Here's where I am at today.
Old wiring harness was just not right, letting only the 10 play button to light up. Found a few loose wires in the harness and I guess I arched one to the frame, causing a" POP " inside the machine. Also was getting a coin-in jam error. Now I have ordered and installed a new harness, with the door I/O boards and now all the buttons are lit. Now I key chip it and brought the 7 fig up, but can not get into it. any or all the keys do not work and even the button on the board will not do anything. Is my board fried? Do I need a new coin- optic? What to do?
Thanks

[cowboygames]

are there any credits on the machine? All credits must be cashed out to key chip it. If credit count is zero and you're having this problem, turn the machine off and try again. If the problem persists, try a clear then key

[CVslots]

 

[brianfink]

I seem to remember from your last thread that you had to add in the multiline display and wire harness you may have it hooked up wrong. The plug from the machine that goes to the I/O card should go into the outer I/O card that is mounted strait up and down (the one closest to you as you are looking at it). Also the ten buttons should not light up during key chip config.

[jacker]

No credits on machine. Used the clear chip and procedures the machine comes to the " 7 key chip configuration " and that's as far as I can go. Spin button max bet button all buttons does not work. Even the reset button on the board will not work.
This problem occurred BEFORE I changed the wiring harness. At that time when POP occurred, it showed a " Coin-in Jam " 
Thanks for all your help

[brianfink]

It seems to me that you have a problem with one of your I/O cards. If you haven't already, try reseating them, just make shur the power is off first they are very sensitive. If you can post a picture of the door area where your I/O cards are located and also pull the I/O cards and post the part numbers. If the problem was just with your coin optics you should still be able to use your buttons in keychip config, you could completly unplug the coin mech to make shure its not shorting out and somehow messing up your I/O card.   

[jacker]

ok will do. Question Shouldn't the reset button on the board work, even if the buttons don't?

[jacker]

here pict. Both I/O cards are the same 75427802. This problem occurred with the old harness. I did purchase a players panel with the harness and two I/O boards. Same part number. Unplugged the coin-op and comp. nothing. Should the test button work anyway?

[brianfink]

Ok I can plainly see that you have it wired wrong the wire hardess coming out from the machine should be pluged into the I/O card that is mounted strait up and down tha wire harness from the display should be going to the I/O card that is at an angle.     

[brianfink]

Here is what mine looks like

[jacker]

Removed coin-op...still nothing. Switched the door I/O cards around, still nothing, but now I only get part of the buttons to light The Service, Cash out, spin reel and Max bet buttons.
Buttons 1 line through 9 lines and play 1 thru play 10 are now NOT lit.
Still will not go into the 7 key chip menu.Any more ideas, please

[brianfink]

Well at least now you have it hooked up right and the proper buttons are lighting up. After doing the key chip when 7 key chip config is up on the display the only buttton that has any function is the spin reels. I would pull the button assy from the bottom and try pushing the little red button on the micro switch (if it doesn't click you know it's bad). Also check to make shure it is wired NO (normaly open), you could also try to jump the wires. Also you might want to look at or try the original I/O that was in the machine at an angle I think it should be a different P/N but I won't be able to tell you for shure untill Monday.   

[jacker]

Micro switch under the Spin button. It clicks, test good with meter. Checked it three times all looks to be good. All wiring looks to be correct. Since the re-set button on the MPU will not activate or really do anything, I pulled the board out and looked for anything burnt, since I heard the "pop" thought a capacitor or something burned out. Please look at the cap on the right side...the black on the leads. Does this look like it may be a problem. Hopefully Monday things will be better. Thanks

[qbert]

The lead that is black is on the diode, this is not generally an issue.
 Let me try to understand a few things. First never change or unplug anything when the power is on, this is the quickest way to fry components. Always power down the machine any time you are thinking about unplugging anything in the machine.
 OK you changed out the door panel wiring harness and the IO cards. While you were changing the harness a wire shorted and you heard a pop. Was the pop in the cabinet or on the door or couldn't you tell?
Since then, and this is where I am fuzzy, If you try to boot the machine it will go through the motions but no go. If you press the MPU button does it go into the '1.0 accounting' mode on the display and then you can't do anything from there because the panel buttons don't work? Or when you press the MPU button nothing at all happens on the display? What does the display say when it boots up if you do nothing with the door closed?

[jacker]

Learned a few months ago to power down before changing anything. It sounded like it was in the machine...I had the belly door open and was looking at the loose wiring when it occurred. But it is hard to tell. Today with door closed it shows (1) Testing memory, (2) call attendant, closure M and coin-in jam. Also no button lights (when power up with door closed) MPU reset will do nothing
 I did get the reset key to show accounting, but can go no further.
I did change the coin-op out but it changed nothing.

[cowboygames]

Look at the last 4 digits of the part numbers on the IO card circuit boards, they should be 7802. If they are, then swap them with each other and see what you get. If one is or both are 7801 cards then you have a wrong card or cards

[qbert]

Almost sounds like the door close optics are not plugged in or need adjustment after button deck replacement

[cowboygames]

Door optics wouldn't effect menu access through the test switch on the MPU

[brianfink]

Check the pins where the MPU connects to the backplane and pins on the I/O cards also wondering when you open the door does it change from closure M to door open M

[jacker]

Both I/O cards do end in 7802. Did swap nothing different.
Door optics do line up.
All pins on MPU look straight.
Open and close door, can see the change from Closure M to Door open M.
Now that I have removed the MPU, the "Coin-in Jam" shows up.

[Buzz]

I only have two (10) button machines and both of them use two different IOs  801 is installed between the inner panel and belly glass,  802 to the hopper side.

[brianfink]

I finally got a chance to look at mine today and it uses an 801 and a 802 as well. 

[jacker]

Is your machine a 9 line pay.. paly 180 credits like mine is? This machine has 10 buttons for betting

[brianfink]

The machine I was looking at was a 10 button triple diamond 9 line 45 credit I'm pretty shur the only difference between a 45 credit and 180 credit is the SB chip 

[qbert]

I have two 10 button machines one 45 credit one 90 credit both have two 802 I/O cards.
So that is not the problem.

Rich