Need some help on an SPlus not resetting - non jackpot related

[Rdixon]

I bought an splus about a month ago to fix up as a gift for my mom for Christmas, it is a 3 coin Cats and Dogs.  I put myself through college working on slot machines primarily the splus and it was back in the 90's so I have forgot some.  Anyway, previous owner thought there was short or something like that with the machine.  I got it home and the CPU board had 2 fried caps that had blown all down the board.  and after going through the machine other than a broken door optic wire, the only other thing I noticed was a jammed hopper.  It would not move when the break was released. So I thought maybe that was what happened, in the middle of payout and hopper jammed frying a few things inside.  So I Bought a hopper motor, motherboard, optic and CPU with new chips (all used) (chips were burned new) put it all back together turned on, played a few spins by using the optic test button, then the machine went into a hard 3200, would not clear.  But what was happening is the machine would not reset when closing the door.  I ran the #13 test and got a 1 on optic tests (which is supposed to mean they are talking, and have since replaced both optics to have the same problem.  I put the old game/reel chips in (trying to clear) and after clearing the 60's codes it went into a hard 49 code.  I have since installed a clear chip and put new game and reel back in.  I have roughly 12 volts on the door at that optic and 9 on the cabinet.  I have ohmed all the wires back and they are good.  Cash box switch has been removed and wires have been jumped together. after I went through the clear chip procedures, the hard codes are gone, I can get it to spin using the optic button again but that is it, still wont reset.  IF the door is closed and I go through the jackpot reset \options, it will spin the reels.  Insert coin light is flashing but wont accept a coin.  I really don't think the optics are the problem, but I am at the point of "no clue"  wondering if anyone else had a similar problem or any ideas of what else to check.  Thanks in advance.  

[jay]

I would ensure the door to the cash can is closed. Use a strip of duct tape or such. Sometimes optics in that as well.

For testing purposes Leave the hopper out. You should not get any errors until you attempt to cash out.

[Rdixon]

the cash door switch has ben removed and has been wired together

[Jim]

until you get the optics working properly, your machine will NEVER work as it should.  when you are in the test 13 mode, the 1 should toggle back and forth , from 1 to 0 and so on until the latch is moved out of position.   

it sounds as is you lost a ground on one of the optics, I'm guessing the one that reads 12 vdc. that's the same voltage as + VB.  there is a ground wire that is bundled up in the back of the machine,  right side of the reels, green/blue wire. ground this to any metal surface.  Check the long single plug on the motherboard, J-10 I think, that's where the ground is provided for that loop circuit.

Hope this helps.

Jim   

[Rdixon]

so it goes to a one, should it be flashin 10101010 or just go back to 0 when the door is open?  Thanks RD

[knagl]

Correct, it should rapidly flicker between 1 and 0 when the door is closed, as the optic signal is pulsed.

[Neonkiss]

If during this test it only reads 1 does that mean that the emitter is on all the time and not pulsing?
What would make the pulse signal be steady? Bad MPU?  

[Rdixon]

until you get the optics working properly, your machine will NEVER work as it should.  when you are in the test 13 mode, the 1 should toggle back and forth , from 1 to 0 and so on until the latch is moved out of position.   

it sounds as is you lost a ground on one of the optics, I'm guessing the one that reads 12 vdc. that's the same voltage as + VB.  there is a ground wire that is bundled up in the back of the machine,  right side of the reels, green/blue wire. ground this to any metal surface.  Check the long single plug on the motherboard, J-10 I think, that's where the ground is provided for that loop circuit.

Hope this helps.

Jim   

Jim, is it possible for you to send me a pic of where the grounding is that I should be looking for, do not see any behind right reels, what I did find was it looked green blue wire spliced into and taken up to the SDS or communication hardware that is no longer in the game.  I did try and ground that and still no flashing on the door in the 13 0 test just goes to a 1  when closed.  Thanks

[Rdixon]

that green wires is pretty long and maybe it needs to be plugged in the mother board? 

[Rdixon]

i found that green wire bundled at the right of the reels.  I grounded it still no change.  The door was reading 12 v not the casing sided it was at 9.  Does anyone know the correct voltage?  is it supposed to be 9 or 12?  Thanks RD

[Rdixon]

I am having some optics issues, cant get game to reset, if I go into door test 13, it changes from a 0 to a 1 when I close the door but does not do it rapidly back and forth.  I have 12 volts at the door optic and 9 at the casing optic.  Anyone know what the correct voltages are so I can isolate the circuit.  I would imagine there is something on the CPU that triggers the optic so if you know that circuit # as well that would be helpful.  I don't have a schematic.  Thanks in advance for any help.  RD

[Rdixon]

Figured it out, Q16 (think its a transistor) head had been knocked off, pulled one off old board, machine resets

[Rdixon]

Q16 component had been busted off just the legs there, pulled one off old board and working now, thanks for the help

[knagl]

Congratulations on finding the problem, and K+ for reporting back with the solution in case it may help someone in the future.

[Jim]

For future reference on this problem.  Are you sure its Q-16?  according to the schematics I have Q-16 (MAC3030) is used  for the handle coil.  Q-26 (2N3409) is used to transfer the pulsed signal to the optic transmitter for the door closed signal.   

Just want to be sure so other  people who have the same problem won't go changing the wrong component.


Hope this helps

Jim 

[Rdixon]

well from a previous discussion I saw that you mentioned the q26 and the u23 chip so I looked on old board and found them, then went to the replacement board I bought and the q26 was lower right hand side instead of top center.  Q16 was in a very similar place to the q26 on the old board and I noticed that all that was there was the legs.  When I got my new board it is supposed to be a 10mhz, it has the sound pot on it, but so did my old one.  I can try and get you a number or take a pic of it for you if you would like.

[Rdixon]

her is a pic of the board Jim  The q16 was roughly in the same place as the q26 on my old board