Anyone heard of a STATUS brand Video Poker slot? CAN'T get it to do much!

[shortrackskater]

Thanks Poppo, for posting (it's been awhile!), and everyone else keeping me alive in this! I'll get to the mpu board ASAP and check voltages and post a pic as well.

[shortrackskater]

I'll check voltages soon. For now here's some pictures. There's one showing the four voltage regulators. There's one above the four. That's the cold one.

[shortrackskater]

The VGA pin out is relatively simple.

The question however is which wire is which.

Step 1 is to identify the make and model if possible of the monitor. From there we can find a manual, determine if the input is CGA, VGA etc.

  Post some pictures - some of the guys on the forum are pretty sharp and may be able to ramble off pinouts in their sleep.

Here's the sticker on the monitor. Do I need to post a picture of the plug to the monitor?

[poppo]

I'll check voltages soon. For now here's some pictures. There's one showing the four voltage regulators. There's one above the four. That's the cold one.

The LM383 that is on that other heat sink is the audio amplifier. And that pot next to it (VR1) is most likely the volume control. It would not hurt to turn it back and forth a few times. sometimes they build up some oxidation on the wipers and will stop the sound from working. As is, it looks like the whole unit is dead since you have no audio or video. If there actually is sound, that might help narrow things down.

[SolidSilver]

The Electrohome GO7 series monitors are one of the most common, exceptionally popular for arcade games.
Many parts available, as well as complete monitors, cap kits, and folks set up to repair.

So, if it turns out you have a monitor problem, fret not  

[shortrackskater]

Coming into this a little late, and I know nothing about these machines, but looking at the MPU picture, right below that Sentry battery, there are 4 voltage regulators with heat sinks. Three are 7805s and one is a 7806. You can check the voltage output of them. From the heat sink screw (ground) to the right leg you should get +5VDC on the 7805s and +6VDC on the 7806. If you get nothing, check from the heat sink screw to the left leg. That wold be your input power.

Okay I checked the input and output voltages on the voltage regulators. The one (in the close up shot) that's just to the left of my home made battery (top cell) has approx 9VDC input and about .17VDC coming out. It's not hot, like the rest are! I also adjusted the audio pot and still got no sound.

[poppo]

Coming into this a little late, and I know nothing about these machines, but looking at the MPU picture, right below that Sentry battery, there are 4 voltage regulators with heat sinks. Three are 7805s and one is a 7806. You can check the voltage output of them. From the heat sink screw (ground) to the right leg you should get +5VDC on the 7805s and +6VDC on the 7806. If you get nothing, check from the heat sink screw to the left leg. That wold be your input power.

Okay I checked the input and output voltages on the voltage regulators. The one (in the close up shot) that's just to the left of my home made battery (top cell) has approx 9VDC input and about .17VDC coming out. It's not hot, like the rest are! I also adjusted the audio pot and still got no sound.

I assume the other 7805s have 5V out? If so, time for a trip to radio shack. The 7805 should be about $1.25

[shortrackskater]

Yes all others show the proper output voltage. Soon as I can get out of this building I'll head to MarVac...one of the only REAL electronics stores around. Thanks Mark! I'll post back soon. 

[poppo]

Yes all others show the proper output voltage. Soon as I can get out of this building I'll head to MarVac...one of the only REAL electronics stores around. Thanks Mark! I'll post back soon.  

Now it's possible you have something else bad (shorted) that caused the 7805 to go out. So after you replace it and turn on power, feel it (carefully) to make sure it's not getting REALLY hot. If it is, turn off the power asap as something else is bad.

FYI, the new 7805 may be labeled just 7805 or LM7805 or something else (xx7805). As long as it's the same 3 terminal package it will be fine.

[shortrackskater]

Replaced the 7805 regulator and got a LIVING machine.  
The screen was normal (but said CALL ATTENDANT). I pressed a few of the buttons inside and and it just sounded a quick "squeal" alarm. So I turned the power off and on and got this! I have no idea which control I need to adjust. I have no room in back to stick my hand in there without removing the monitor. I don't know what this adjustment is but it's probably on the back side of the CRT. Looks like Horizontal hold but I don't see that on the back pots.
UPDATE: I found it in the manual... I'll pull it out and just move it slightly one way, and then the other.

[SolidSilver]

YAHOO, you've saved that rare old girl
Persistence pays off!

[shortrackskater]

It played once, then stopped and kept giving me an alarm if I manually tried to trip the coin pin-lever. Messed with it and tried EVERY combination of buttons but kept getting CALL ATTENDANT. I could reset it each time but it would repeat the same error. Finally I SHUT the door, inserted a coin and it played! And I won!
I haven't tried to pay out yet but this was a HUGE surprise getting it working tonight. Thank you Solid Silver for "making" me keep it and thank you Mark for the help when I found the cold voltage regulator! I'll try the hopper soon.
Strange thing is there's no switch on the door to "tell" the machine it's opened. I wonder if there some magnetic in the coin mech area? I don't see anything different there but I've also never seen a machine like this one.
Oh...and I got the belly light working last night... it had simply fallen out and was wedged in the bottom. 

[shortrackskater]

Well I gently pulled out the monitor and adjusted the brightness and FOCUS and got a NICE super sharp picture...much better looking than the one posted here.
To top it off... ALL the lights work, the sound works, and the hopper works. I guess I'll be keeping this funny old machine.
After playing for awhile... this machine is surprisingly advanced for being so old. When drawn a potentially winning hand, it displays what you have: straight, flush, two pair, etc... whereas my Fortune one and my CEI just let you decide if there's a winning hand or not! It even shows ONE pair of a non winning hand, in case you want to draw and maybe get two pair.
Another interesting thing is that if you press HOLD and change your mind, you have to clear ALL your holds and start over with the HOLD choices.

[CVslots]

Good job on your progress so far! 

[jay]

Congradulations.... 

[shortrackskater]

Here's a video of my working (so far!) Status slot. Sorry for the crackly audio.
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/T-NcKZYJdjE&rel=0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/T-NcKZYJdjE&rel=0</a>

[shortrackskater]

UPDATE: It would work, but I was getting frequent hopper jams, and a runaway hopper. I was also getting coin-in errors.
I *think* I've fixed all the issues.
For the coin-in errors it seemed the metal pin attached to the coin drop switch was being hit "too slow" (as suggested by SolidSilver) so I just lubricated the switch. It worked for awhile but returned, so I cleaned the coin mech as well, and adjusted the coin width screw. That seemed to do the trick. I've now inserted at least 200 coins and it is working.
For the hopper, I found I had two issues. When I would try to pay out, the hopper would start and the screen would begin to count coins, then stop and the hopper would just keep whirring. That problem was the One coin count switch (or whatever it's called). It just needed an adjustment screw to be turned in about one time, and then the switch began to register coins again.
Once that was fixed, it worked but would occasionally jam during a payout. That problem ended up being the chute that diverts the coins to the tray. Over time, it had migrated to one side, keeping the coins from rolling out and down to the tray. I used my flat pliers and was able tweak it to the left and align it properly.
The machine now works and pays out perfectly.  
I also spent some time adding some missing wire ties back to the machine. It sounds funny but I really enjoy getting the INSIDES cleaned up and wires routed properly.  
The monitor had some kind of attachment screws at the ends. I found some drywall inserts that plugged in and work great to keep the monitor from movement. I also (see my very first picture) re-mounted the three service switches on the far right of the machine using an large washer in the inside and outside. It looks much nicer than the sheet metal screws someone had wedged in to hold the switches in place.
The only thing I need to do now is adjust the vertical size and I think it will be nearly perfect! I really need some extension cables... it's a pain to prop the CRT on a box and get my hand to the back of the monitor all while avoiding a little shock therapy!  

[shortrackskater]

I think I may be just talking to myself now but I'll post anyway in case someone, somewhere acquires one of these oddities! 
For now, It's working, completely. I've played it for an hour with no issues. It pays out correctly too with no jams or "non-count" errors. The only thing it does that's interesting, (but I have a feeling this may have been this way originally) is that if there are credits registered and a coin in inserted, it does NOT register. It just drops into the hopper! Hmmm... that's a way to earn money for the casino! I may be wrong. You'd think the coin entry switch would remain enabled with credits... 

[poppo]

I think I may be just talking to myself now but I'll post anyway in case someone, somewhere acquires one of these oddities!  
For now, It's working, completely. I've played it for an hour with no issues. It pays out correctly too with no jams or "non-count" errors. The only thing it does that's interesting, (but I have a feeling this may have been this way originally) is that if there are credits registered and a coin in inserted, it does NOT register. It just drops into the hopper! Hmmm... that's a way to earn money for the casino! I may be wrong. You'd think the coin entry switch would remain enabled with credits...  

Some of us are still following.

Again, I know nothing about that machine. but on a S+ slot, there is a coin diverter that moves to drop "extra" coins back into the tray vice the hopper. Look for something (like a plate or gate) with a solenoid on it in the coin path. A "fix" for a bad solenoid on a S+ was to tie strap the diverter so coins always went to the hopper. Perhaps someone did something similar, or something is unplugged.

[shortrackskater]

Glad you're following.
I'll check that again. I looked but sometimes I don't look enough.

[poppo]

Follow the coin path from where you drop it all the way. It may supposed to get diverted early in the drop if there are credits. Just speculating, but the machine should not take coins without giving credits or diverting to the tray.

[SolidSilver]

It should work just like your CEI: there are TWO solenoid-activated coin diverters.

The first one, when the machine is powered down or in an error situation, routes coins to the output tray.
This is the one you hear click when you turn the machine on. A CEI with credits will refuse to accept
new coins until the credits are played off; it does so by deactivating this diverter. It's usually physically
part of the coin acceptor itself.

This is what is probably causing the problem. It's stuck/unlubricated,  jammed with something, or the solenoid coil is burned out.
Since you mentioned the "click" in the door area when firing up, it sounds like a dead coil is unlikely.

The second one diverts coins headed for the hopper to an "overflow" box, when the machine thinks
its hopper is full.

[jay]

Just the goverment .... We are listening...... 

[shortrackskater]

Just the goverment .... We are listening......  

 
Thanks!

[shortrackskater]

It should work just like your CEI: there are TWO solenoid-activated coin diverters.

The first one, when the machine is powered down or in an error situation, routes coins to the output tray.
This is the one you hear click when you turn the machine on. A CEI with credits will refuse to accept
new coins until the credits are played off; it does so by deactivating this diverter. It's usually physically
part of the coin acceptor itself.

This is what is probably causing the problem. It's stuck/unlubricated,  jammed with something, or the solenoid coil is burned out.
Since you mentioned the "click" in the door area when firing up, it sounds like a dead coil is unlikely.

The second one diverts coins headed for the hopper to an "overflow" box, when the machine thinks
its hopper is full.

Follow the coin path from where you drop it all the way. It may supposed to get diverted early in the drop if there are credits. Just speculating, but the machine should not take coins without giving credits or diverting to the tray.

I just realized something after reading your replies. I'm not even home now, but I just visualized the inside of my door and remembered the two CUT wires that were quite close to one of the solenoids. I wonder if THAT is it? I'll check soon as I get home for lunch.