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Author Topic: Cleaning the gunk off the glass?  (Read 4257 times)
Magicslots
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« on: April 10, 2009, 09:10:47 PM »

  Any suggestions on cleaning the old smoky? gunk off the insides of the glass?  I want to make this S+
shine like new, (at least as much as is possible). I know you have to be careful cleaning the inside glass,
so would soap and water do it, or is there something better? Some judicious work on the out side with
a razor blade did wonders for it. For that matter what works best overall on the outside since I know you
 are supposed to avoid products with ammonia in them?
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #1 on: April 10, 2009, 11:36:21 PM »

I use Windex and paper towels...
for old glue, I use something in a orange can I think it's called Simple Orange?
Dissolves old, gluey scotch tape...doesn't seem to harm either the glass or the film backing behind the glass.


ADD>> I found out the name of it..."Speedy Peel" a citrus solvent...
« Last Edit: April 14, 2009, 07:10:16 AM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
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« Reply #2 on: April 10, 2009, 11:53:17 PM »

Products I like to use is GooGone for the gluey sticky stuff and I use Brasso on the chrome.  Shiney and new when all done... new
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« Reply #3 on: April 10, 2009, 11:59:37 PM »

To clean glass and strips; I first use "AWESOME". It's a spray cleaner you get from the dollar store. It works great. I then use windex on the strips and glass for a nice streak -free finish. To get the gunk off glass ; I just use WD-40 and then the AWESOME and windex.
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« Reply #4 on: April 11, 2009, 05:31:49 AM »

Grease Lightining (industrial strength) followed by window cleaner. Goof off for glue and tape.
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« Reply #5 on: April 11, 2009, 06:54:10 AM »

I am assuming that you mean not only the facing but the back side of the glass, where I have found most of my gunk buildup. With the newer slots, you are OK to use most of the commercial glass cleaners but stay away from solvents like GooGone or WD-40 on the back side of the glass. I have heard on older slots the printing was done differently, not Mylar, so I would ask anyone here if there are any cautions for cleaning the back side (printed) of the older slots. Also don't forget to clean your fluorescent bulbs as well since that buildup accumulates on them too.

 Dan (tacman)
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« Reply #6 on: April 11, 2009, 07:15:36 AM »

For my Universal glass I've found Goof-Off works great. Even on that smokey grunge. But be very careful, it will attack decals like the denom sticker, etc. Always test it in a small corner first.
It also damages my backlit reel strips.  Duh!  But was fine on regular laminated strips.

I found reel glass from slant tops had the worst coat of film on them as they lay almost horizontal. Goof-Off cleaned them right up, both front and back.
Again, always test first in a inconspicuous area.
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« Reply #7 on: April 12, 2009, 12:53:17 AM »

The Mylar on the back of reel glass used in the S+ and others is soft and scratches easily. Be careful not to push down too hard when cleaning. Also note that the Mylar covers the entire reel glass, including the clear area that shows the strips, and that the clear area will show off even the smallest of scratches.
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« Reply #8 on: April 12, 2009, 06:23:50 AM »

If you have a scratched up mylar on the reel glass and it is more or less junk you can try this.

If you are REEL good with a razor blade and straight edge you can trim out the mylar on the reel glass. After cutting around the window edges. Usr a razor to remove the mylar then clean up the adhesive with Goof Off.
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Magicslots
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« Reply #9 on: April 12, 2009, 10:16:18 AM »

  Thanks for the tips guys, the gunk cleaned very well of the top glass and most of the reel glass,
the belly glass is another story.  I am going to try some other cleaners, but the brown haze? is still there on the belly glass.
Is there a mylar coating on the back of the belly glass, and is that why it wont clean as readily?
  While I will probably just replace the reel glass, at the top of the clear reel windows is what I thought was glass flow/molding flaws,
but now I guess it is a flaw in the mylar (looks like waves in the glass). I may try the razor blade tip.
The machine is 1993 RWB WS, with what I assume is the original game in it.
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« Reply #10 on: April 12, 2009, 01:05:08 PM »

The reel glass for the RWB is tri-colored and a slightly harder to find that plain black, blue, or red glass. I believe that it is the same design as that used for the 4th of July. I have also noticed that the reel glass that I've bought in the last couple of years has tended to have more scuffs on the clear section. Back in 1999-2002 I had no trouble finding reel glass in near mint condition for the S+, but that's become more of a challenge.

All of the S+ slot artwork is done on that Mylar type material and then affixed to the back of the glass, so yes, the belly glass is the same as the others. Use the same options and precautions that have already been posted to try to remove the brown haze.
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« Reply #11 on: April 12, 2009, 06:48:10 PM »

Once the clear part of the reel glass gets scratched, it's done...you can not remove the scratch.
I had one that was in real bad shape. This was my fix:
First I cleaned the back as best I could with Windex and paper towels.
Then, using both a steel edge ruler and an exacto knife with a new blade,
I cut the Mylar down to the glass around the edges where it's clear.
This requires the steadiest of hands and
can only be done in a quiet location where there's no kids running around! lol
Once you peel away the clear Mylar, you then have to remove the adhesive that's left behind.
That also requires patience and careful rubbing with any adhesive remover and a paper towel.
Once you remove all the adhesive, clean the bare glass with Windex again.
If you take your time cutting and peeling, you'll love the results!
But , now you must treat this like a baby, because no there's nothing to protect the bare glass.
I haven't tried replacing the clear Mylar over the bare glass though...I'm just lousy when it comes to films.
I always end up with bubbles underneath, so I left it bare and have been real careful not to scratch the glass with anything...
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« Reply #12 on: April 13, 2009, 01:33:05 AM »

Per scratches on the bare glass. I wonder if one of those auto glass repair places could fix it.
Mind you for the $25 for the repair you could probably just get new reel glass.
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« Reply #13 on: April 14, 2009, 01:56:15 AM »

SB, wasn't it hard to bypass the thin payline that runs through the middle of the clear areas?
I would also think that for three and especially five line glass that this would be extremely difficult.
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Ron (r273)
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« Reply #14 on: April 14, 2009, 06:28:29 AM »

SB, wasn't it hard to bypass the thin payline that runs through the middle of the clear areas?
I would also think that for three and especially five line glass that this would be extremely difficult.

I have used automobile chrome pin stripping. It is a little thicker line but it does work if you don't have anything else. The only
problem is, it has to go on the outside of the glass.

Ron
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« Reply #15 on: April 14, 2009, 07:12:52 AM »

Yes, I cut it off and replaced it with black electrical tape pinstriping...you can't even tell...looks exactly the same as the black mylar line.
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« Reply #16 on: April 14, 2009, 09:58:12 AM »

Thanks Ron and SB. I have a few of sets of reel glass that would benefit from this operation. The resident surgeon just needs to work up the courage to operate. stir the pot / get cooking frying pan
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« Reply #17 on: April 14, 2009, 03:00:09 PM »

David, Use a straight edge for those lines.
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« Reply #18 on: April 14, 2009, 03:30:22 PM »

Unless of course you have one or more wheels slightly off kilter in which case you can make adjustments on the line.....  rotflmao


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« Reply #19 on: April 14, 2009, 04:12:28 PM »

Unless of course you have one or more wheels slightly off kilter in which case you can make adjustments on the line.....  rotflmao


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Or I could use it on fleapay:

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David, Use a straight edge for those lines.

I have a steel ruler with cork on the bottom. I thought I'd give that a try. What is the risk of scratching the glass or wrecking the Mylar?
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« Reply #20 on: April 14, 2009, 04:22:55 PM »

It really s- - ks if it tears towards the part you want to keep...
I should have said that I used a solid steel flat bar as I did not have a steel edged ruler.
I had to be very careful when peeling the Mylar ONLY towards the clear area so that none of the remainder would have a chance to lift from the glass.
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« Reply #21 on: April 25, 2009, 01:20:51 PM »

Figured I'd just add on to this thread instead of creating another one, I have 2 questions:

1: How do I remove old Scotch tape from reel glass when swapping out demonination, payout limit, and max coins per play stickers? This stuff is hard as a rock, and my 3M citrus-based adhesive remover won't touch it. It does fine on the old dried adhesive, but not the tape itself, and I don't want to get near the glass with a razor blade if I can avoid it.

2: What tape to use for these stickers that won't have the above problem and stays flexible enough to easily remove after a long time?
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« Reply #22 on: April 25, 2009, 01:56:43 PM »

I used isopropyl alcohol on mine, applied with a q-tip.  let dry, reapply. after about 3 coats it flaked right off.  Then I used orange oil cleaner on the adhesive. No apparent damage to the mylar backing that I can tell. My new stickers are affixed with the clear cover guards used on cell phone screens and ipods etc. Cut to size they give the decal a protective transparent backing. As to how they will hold up? Time will tell.  I thought they were worth a try!
« Last Edit: April 26, 2009, 08:02:43 AM by Magicslots » Logged

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