Anyone know anything about the Suzo Happ Polygon Toppers on Ebay

[4 Deuces]

I've been reading all of the drama about these for a while now. If Junkman wants to send me one for the cost of shipping (that he has listed on ebay), I can see what it would take to build a cheap controller for it. Those that know me here, know that I like to  projects like this.

If Junkman doesn't want to send you one, I'll send you mine.  Thanks for taking on the project!  :Dave

[vtyler]

as i already said a custom controller shouldn't be too difficult for someone that knows what they are doing if we are lucky the ring has the led driver on it and all we have to do is send it the commands.

[Junkman1]

I've been reading all of the drama about these for a while now. If Junkman wants to send me one for the cost of shipping (that he has listed on ebay), I can see what it would take to build a cheap controller for it. Those that know me here, know that I like to  projects like this.

Well, I'd say ok.. except it's possible I may be selling the business this week...... Ya know what.. send me the address .. I'll try and get one out to ya.. for the benefit of the guys that use these..

Thanks.

[poppo]

I've been reading all of the drama about these for a while now. If Junkman wants to send me one for the cost of shipping (that he has listed on ebay), I can see what it would take to build a cheap controller for it. Those that know me here, know that I like to  projects like this.

Well, I'd say ok.. except it's possible I may be selling the business this week...... Ya know what.. send me the address .. I'll try and get one out to ya.. for the benefit of the guys that use these..

Thanks.

PM sent with requested info.

[4 Deuces]

UPDATE: I bought one of Dave's polygon topper from SouthernSlots.com and it works perfectly!  It's completely different inside.  Not at all like the aforementioned polygon topper in this thread by Junkman1 and on Ebay.  I'll post pictures if anyone's interested or you can email me. 

You will still need to purchase a base, harness and power supply separately (unless you want to install without a base and make your own harness with 12V/3A AC adaptor). 

Here are the links ...

Polygon topper $34.95 plus shipping (same as Suzo-Happ for $330) -
http://www.southernslots.com/happ-polygon-rgb-topper-brand-new/
NOTE: Also includes a USB cable if you want to connect to an IGT host for complete game control of unique colors and flashing patterns sent from USB host (host obviously not included).

Topper bases $9.00
Flat top = http://na.suzohapp.com/all_catalogs/topper_boxes/95-2862-00
Round top = http://na.suzohapp.com/all_catalogs/topper_boxes/95-2863-00
Arch top = http://na.suzohapp.com/all_catalogs/topper_boxes/95-2864-00
Slant top = http://na.suzohapp.com/all_catalogs/topper_boxes/95-2865-00

Harnesses $9.99
IGT Molex = http://na.suzohapp.com/all_catalogs/topper_boxes/95-2866-00
NOTE: The candle plug is 4-pin Molex (with 3 pins active) in a square shape (as opposed to the alternative 6-pin Molex plug).

[ADD 1/8/2014]One more harness is needed to power the back light LEDs for the plexie.  I will post as soon as I identify.[/ADD][/color]

+12 VDC 3A Power supply $39.95
http://na.suzohapp.com/all_catalogs/topper_boxes/80-0071-00
NOTE: This has a plug rather than a Molex to plug directly into an outlet.  I believe Suzo-Happ also sells a version with a Molex to go into a switched power Molex plug in your machine in case you don't have an extra outlet in the machine.

$34.95 + $9.00 + $9.99 + $39.95 = $93.89 + shipping

That sounds like a fair price to me for this kind of topper, but I'm also the one that spent $125 for a Game King topper. LOL!

Hope this helps!  :Dave

[poppo]

UPDATE: I bought one of Dave's polygon topper from SouthernSlots.com and it works perfectly!  

Good to hear. What sort of light pattern does it display?

<edit> Not 5 minutes after posting that I had not heard from junkman1, fedex dropped off one of his toppers. More info after I get into it.

[4 Deuces]

The pattern was extremely varied.  Perhaps I could send you the topper I got (or just the board) if you want to see about replicating it.  At a minimum, I can send you a close-up, detailed picture of the board.

[poppo]

The pattern was extremely varied.  Perhaps I could send you the topper I got (or just the board) if you want to see about replicating it.  At a minimum, I can send you a close-up, detailed picture of the board.

PM sent.

For the others here, on mine, the "back-light" LEDs require 24V. The back-light is separate from the light ring. The light ring has a bunch of LC541 octal drivers. From the data sheet it looks like you turn the different outputs (the LEDs in this case) on/off by sending these chips hi/low signals. As already noted, the one I got comes with no control board, so I will have to reverse engineer the ring.

[poppo]

Here is a quick picture of the inside of mine. The back-light is powered by the orange and brown wire. (24VDC orange is positive).  The main plug has 14 pins on it. 2 are for the back-light. Assuming that white and black wire are for the light ring power (I have not traced them out yet), that leaves 10 wires. Since the LC541 has an enable line, I assume some of the wires are to enable different "banks" to get a chaser effect. the rest I assume are to turn on/off the various LEDs. I don't think this will be too hard to figure out. I just need to be careful not to let the magic smoke out.  

BTW, the candle has it's own separate cable.

<edit> Hmmm... As noted above the main plug has 14 pins. Two go to the back-light leaving 12. The plug on the light ring has 12 pins. However on the 14 pin plug, only 11 wires go to the light ring (one pin has no wire). But on the light ring end, there are only 10 wires (2 pins have no wire).   Perhaps the 11th wire is a shield for the cable. On the plus side, less wires=less tracing.

Also, since the LC541 is a low voltage chip and I see no voltage regulator on the ring, I am assuming that one wire would be for +5V (and the white and black are for a higher LED voltage and common ground). So assuming 7 wires left, perhaps 4 are for the different banks and 3 for the different colored LEDs. of course this is all just guessing at this point.

[poppo]

Argh!!! I had a long post written and then the site wigged out and I lost it.

Ok, here is the much shorter version. This may be harder than I originally thought. I have found more ICs on the segments. Some I believe are the transistor drivers for the LEDs (driven by the LC451s), but I don't know what the other ones are. They are too small to see the printing. Also the boards say 3.3V on them, so I'm not sure if it needs 3.3v fed to it or if one of those unidentified chips is a regulator. I'm not giving up yet, but this may take a little longer. On the plus side, there are some "test points" that are labeled (i.e. LED voltage) so that will help a bit. I'm really hoping I can just apply LED voltage and whatever voltage the board needs, and that toggling the rest of the pins hi or low will turn on/off the LEDs

[poppo]

Ok, now I am either making progress or completely confused. First, I was wrong about there being 4 LC451s. There is only one. The other 3 similar chips are Y5925 (16 channel LED constant current LED sink driver). That makes sense as there are 36 LEDs (on each of the 4 segments).

This is what I found tracing out that 12 pin plug on the light ring

Pin
1 Not used by cable
2 Logic ground
3 Logic ground
4 Logic ground
5 Not used by cable
6 LED VCC (voltage unknown yet)
7 LED Ground
8 LC451 pin 6 (A5)
9 Logic ground
10 LC451 pin 8 (A7)
11 Logic ground
12 LC451 pin 2 (A1)

I'm a little stumped at all of the logic grounds. And also not sure why they used those particular pins on the LC451 (vice something like A1,A2,A3).

Since there seems to only be 3 "control" lines, I'm assuming one is for red, one for green, and one for blue. This can give you a wide variety of light colors, but I don't see how it could do any sort of "chaser" sequence.  

None of the lines go to the 3.3v test point, so I am assuming it is generated on board from the LED voltage. There is a small power led on the board, so I guess the next step is to just apply some LED voltage and see what happens. Grounding pins 8,10, and 12 should do something.

[4 Deuces]

email sent with picture of SouthernSlots topper.

[poppo]

email sent with picture of SouthernSlots topper.

Got it. Totally different than this one.

I'm having no luck with mine. All I got so far is the 3.3v power led to light up (besides the back-light). I have a feeling those 3 "control lines" are not just on/off toggles, but some sort of serial data lines. After looking at the data sheet for the Y5925 LED drivers, they need all sorts of clock and timing signals.

[vtyler]

are your sure of the part number of the LC451. the Y5925 chips would be wired in series the data lines should be similar to a shift register.

[poppo]

are your sure of the part number of the LC451. the Y5925 chips would be wired in series the data lines should be similar to a shift register.

Yes I am sure. The Y5925s are LED drivers and I believe they are set up to "strobe" the LEDs to reduce overall current draw. Hence the need for a clock signal. with a total of 128 LEDs, the current would be very high if they were not strobed. But I don't see anything else (obvious) on the board that would produce the clock signal. I also got out my microscope and took a look at those remaining chips. They all have numbers on them that are "etched" vice printed. The numbers/letters on them don't seem to cross to anything, so no telling what they do. For all I know the first two could be a custom microcontroller and a I2C EEPROM with no programming. Hence the unit not doing anything.

MHH - 8 pin
Z176 - 6 pin
LA5#KE - 5 pin
A14G - 5 pin

I think this is a project that is going to go nowhere without schematics or some more technical data. I may be better off trying to bypass most of the existing circuitry and just try to drive the Y5925s directly with my controller.

[4 Deuces]

I found this manual on Suzo-Happ ...

http://na.suzohapp.com/images/pdf/104-0xxxx-man.pdf

[4 Deuces]

One more thing ... I had NOT illuminated the back light.  I was so excited to see the rings work that I didn't even realize it.  The back light takes a 24V 2-pin connection, so one extra harness is needed.  I will add that to my post as soon as I find it.  :Dave

[poppo]

One more thing ... I had NOT illuminated the back light.  I was so excited to see the rings work that I didn't even realize it.  The back light takes a 24V 2-pin connection, so one extra harness is needed.  I will add that to my post as soon as I find it.  :Dave

Dave, unless you know for sure it takes 24V, you may want to try 12V first.

[CommTech]

One more thing ... I had NOT illuminated the back light.  I was so excited to see the rings work that I didn't even realize it.  The back light takes a 24V 2-pin connection, so one extra harness is needed.  I will add that to my post as soon as I find it.  :Dave

Dave, unless you know for sure it takes 24V, you may want to try 12V first.

The polygon topper that I have (Same as the topper as this thread ... http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=25829.0), came off of an IGT machine.  The backlight LED's are indeed 24 VDC.

[poppo]

The polygon topper that I have (Same as the topper as this thread ... http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=25829.0), came off of an IGT machine.  The backlight LED's are indeed 24 VDC.

Good to know. Since the rest was running on 12V, I though it better to be safe than sorry.

[CommTech]

Good to know. Since the rest was running on 12V, I though it better to be safe than sorry.

I agree completely.  I would do the same thing if I did not know for sure. 

[Junkman1]

Hey folks..

Just a fyi.. Dropped a pallet of these at public auction. See ultimate auctions, las vegas. End of the month..

Also dropped a pallet of the barbershop toppers as well.. Just a fyi..

Will drop some kits/glass etc that didn't sell .. next week if I get a minute..

[vtyler]

on the Y5925s sdi is serial data in and sdo is serial data out much like a shift register you connect sdo frome one chip to sdi on the next ship in searies so when ship 1 is done processing the sequence it passes it to chip 2 then chip 3 down the line. sdi on chip one is driven by the control board along with LE (latch enable / strobe ) clk and oe (output enable) r-ext is your current limiting resister.

[poppo]

on the Y5925s sdi is serial data in and sdo is serial data out much like a shift register you connect sdo frome one chip to sdi on the next ship in searies so when ship 1 is done processing the sequence it passes it to chip 2 then chip 3 down the line. sdi on chip one is driven by the control board along with LE (latch enable / strobe ) clk and oe (output enable) r-ext is your current limiting resister.

Yes, as noted earlier, I figured the Y5925s were being used to "strobe" the LED outputs. However, the question is where are the clock, OE, etc, signals coming from? From outside of the light ring or from those mystery chips on the ring board it's self? Since there appears to only be 3 "signal" lines coming into the light ring, it would seem local that some of the signals are being generated on the board it's self. Unfortunately, I no longer have a working scope, so that makes things even more difficult. And as i mentioned, it's very difficult to follow the traces because they are covered in a fairly thick white coating.

What I was originally hoping for was all of the logic being outside of the light ring. For example, one line for red, one for green, and one for blue. Then having lines that enabled which bank of LEDs to light. That would allow for easy programing of patterns (i.e. chaser) while varying the RGB colors simply by toggling the first 3 lines in various combinations.  Unfortunately that is not the case.

[vtyler]

your searial lines are probably coming off the buffer chip. start at the first y5925 and work backwards frome that it if goes to the buffer it is off board if it goes to the mystery chip it would be easier to drive the y5925 directly.