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Author Topic: Help with E1090-1  (Read 23144 times)
rjpohl
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« on: November 18, 2013, 09:37:16 PM »

Need help with this one.  When I got it the hopper just ran continuously.  I purchased a hopper board from Barry and now that stopped hopper from running continuously.

I checked all fuses and they are good.  Battery is 4.04 volts.  I reseated all connectors/eproms on the boards.

When power is turned on the divert er below coin mech plugs in, the solenoid for handle (near door) pulls in.  the "tilt", "coin accepted" and 'deposit coin" lights are light.

the "test" and "reset" buttons do not reset tilts or bring up test numbers in display.

Help, what's next step?


* photo 1.JPG (176.53 KB, 600x800 - viewed 354 times.)

* photo 2.JPG (208.16 KB, 600x800 - viewed 373 times.)
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rjpohl
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« Reply #1 on: November 18, 2013, 09:37:48 PM »

another picture


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FOXSSLOTS1
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Me at work


« Reply #2 on: November 19, 2013, 07:26:54 PM »

pull the hopper and reel mech out of machine and power up - silll have the tilt light?  check the io board for any burnt areas.  are you getting any display? 
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rjpohl
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« Reply #3 on: November 20, 2013, 12:19:47 PM »

Pulled hopper and reels out.  Tilt/coin in/deposit coin lights still on.  Which board is the I/O?
Thanks
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proten
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« Reply #4 on: November 20, 2013, 12:40:52 PM »

The I/O board is the one on the back wall behind the reels.
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rjpohl
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« Reply #5 on: November 20, 2013, 02:03:21 PM »

I don't see any burnt places but someone has made some solder repairs that look a little rough
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rjpohl
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« Reply #6 on: November 20, 2013, 07:12:52 PM »

Forgot to mention the displays are blank.
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rjpohl
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« Reply #7 on: November 22, 2013, 09:49:52 AM »

I've still not be able to fix this machine on my own.  I've checked and rechecked fuses, reseated all connectors and eproms.  For the most part when I turn on the slot it has the tilt/coin accepted/deposit coin lights on with nothing on the display.  Once or twice I have had the lights go off with a number in the display (I think it was an 8). 
If you know where I can get an i/o board or possibly have this one checked/repaired please let me know.

thanks
Bob
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rjpohl
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« Reply #8 on: November 24, 2013, 04:07:55 PM »

Help, any suggestion or should I just give up on this one?
thanks
Bob
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proten
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« Reply #9 on: November 24, 2013, 04:49:46 PM »

If your not getting any display the I would look at the MPU board.
Check the small memory board and the mounting pins on the MPU.
Is there any sings of acid damage to the small memory board?
Are the pins on the MPU cracked at the solder joint?
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ramegoom
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« Reply #10 on: November 24, 2013, 05:19:54 PM »

Just wondering, is it possible to substitute that E1000 MPU board with a newer, E2000, and just swap out the EPROMs?
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proten
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« Reply #11 on: November 24, 2013, 06:01:47 PM »

Yes you can upgrade to a E2000 board ,but I'm not sure on the chips.
Most E2000 boards have 3 "M" chips and 1 or 2 "P" chips.
Barry (Foxsslots) is the one to know how to make it work.
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rjpohl
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« Reply #12 on: November 24, 2013, 06:15:37 PM »

the small board looks good, better than most I've seen, no acid damage.  the battery is reading 4.04, what should it read?
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proten
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« Reply #13 on: November 24, 2013, 06:16:43 PM »

It is a 3.6 volt Ni Cad battery
So 4.04 volts is OK
Did you check the pins where they solder into the MPU board?
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dhellis
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« Reply #14 on: November 24, 2013, 06:37:39 PM »

Forgot to mention the displays are blank.

Have you checked the power supply? You also might want to check and make sure that the 4 Mhz clock if running. This would require
you to have an oscilloscope. With out the clock running the CPU chip will not run so nothing will work.
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rjpohl
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« Reply #15 on: November 24, 2013, 06:58:56 PM »

proten: the pins and solder joints looked good, best I can remember, but will recheck tomorrow.
dhellis: I haven't checked the power supply but will do so tomorrow.

there was a leg broken on one of the eproms, I soldered a new one on.  I've done this before without a problem.

thanks for the suggestions and help, hopefully this machine will be back to life soon.
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dhellis
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« Reply #16 on: November 24, 2013, 07:13:33 PM »

proten: the pins and solder joints looked good, best I can remember, but will recheck tomorrow.
dhellis: I haven't checked the power supply but will do so tomorrow.

there was a leg broken on one of the eproms, I soldered a new one on.  I've done this before without a problem.

thanks for the suggestions and help, hopefully this machine will be back to life soon.


I wrote a procedure for bench testing the power supplies and placed it on one of our other members websites. You can check it out
when you have time. There are also procedures for testing the reel reader cards

http://www.coinslots.com/product/repairs/repair-tips/
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rjpohl
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« Reply #17 on: November 24, 2013, 07:32:15 PM »

thanks dhellis
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rjpohl
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« Reply #18 on: November 25, 2013, 08:33:31 PM »

checked the power supply and I believe it is ok, here are the readings UR 9.8v, ZC 6.8v and +5 is 4.99
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dhellis
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« Reply #19 on: November 25, 2013, 09:23:55 PM »

checked the power supply and I believe it is ok, here are the readings UR 9.8v, ZC 6.8v and +5 is 4.99

I agree, the power supply is OK.. The display has a cable that runs to J1 on the MPU borad. J1 is located at the to right had side
of the board next to the power connector. You may have a bad cable, bent pin or something else keeping the display from
lighting up.. We need the display to read any error codes so should get this working first.
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rjpohl
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« Reply #20 on: December 03, 2013, 04:23:08 PM »

Still working at this machine with no luck.  I'm leaning toward the i/o board being bad.  If I push around on it contacts will pull in and drop out.  I can see where some one has replace some components.
Board number P2948-303 AS-29080-56004 80.  I may look at buying one

still opening to suggestions.

thanks
Bob
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dhellis
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« Reply #21 on: December 03, 2013, 05:08:38 PM »

Still working at this machine with no luck.  I'm leaning toward the i/o board being bad.  If I push around on it contacts will pull in and drop out.  I can see where some one has replace some components.
Board number P2948-303 AS-29080-56004 80.  I may look at buying one

still opening to suggestions.

thanks
Bob

I have had connection issues on the MPU boards and in about 95% of the cases the bad connection was on one of the pins on the IC's that
generate the most heat. For the I/O board this would be the 2 5 volt regulators (U1, U2) one of the 5 8T98 buffers (U8, U11, U14, U16, U17)
the bipolar prom (82S123, U10)

If you are handy with a soldering I would touch up the pins on these chips and see if that resolves your problem.
Of course the Triac's Q1 thru Q32 also will generate heat but you should be able to determine which might have the problem by grasping each one
and moving it slightly. If something changes then resolder the connection on that (those) triac(s)
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rjpohl
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« Reply #22 on: December 03, 2013, 05:14:11 PM »

is there anyone out there that checks/repairs these boards?  I know a few of the triac's have been replaced, one was loose and I repaired the solder joint.  Soldering these boards is not my cup of tea.
thanks
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rjpohl
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« Reply #23 on: January 10, 2014, 12:52:39 PM »

I sent the boards (MPU & I/O) and the power supply out for repairs.  There were minor problems that were corrected.  I installed boards/power supply this morning.  Here's status:
Power on
TILT light is on
3 columns of 4 lights (behind 1st, 2nd and 3rd coin are flashing in the top box
press reset on hopper, lights in top box quit blinking and tilt light foes off for about 2 seconds, then back on/flashing
code 50 on door (door open)


Pull reel mech out:
hit reset, lights quit flashing, tilt goes off, deposit coin lights
diverter below coin acceptor doesn't pull in

pressing test button on hopper has no effect.
Bob

thanks for your help
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dhellis
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« Reply #24 on: January 10, 2014, 06:38:22 PM »

Just curious, have you tried the other MPU board into this machine? You would need to change the M7 chip to get it to pay properly
but all you really want to find out is if swapping the boards alleviates the other problems.

A board may be tested and repaired and check out fine on the tester but remember that is a controlled
environment so things may be different in real life.

Try the swap and let me know.

The error code 50 is desired result with a door open. You might have some dirty connections causing the other problems.
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