Problems with E-1260-2

[rjpohl]

I've checked all 5 fuses and they are good, checked voltages on power supply and they read out properly.  Battery on board checks out at 4volts.
Meter on door is working.  Florescent bubs work.
The diverter below coin comparator does not pull in when powered up.

I've attached a picture of a wire that is hanging loose on door (it has approx. 8 volts ac).  I put a red circle around the wire (see pic).

Pretty clean machine would love to get it going so any help will be appreciated.

thanks
Bob

[proten]

The diverted will not pull in till after the first game.
What is the machine doing or not doing?

[rjpohl]

basically it does nothing at all (except for the florescent being light).  The display usually has 50 (door open).

[Jim]

what happens when you push the two reset buttons on the hopper control board?   Is this a regular Bally E-2000 series machine or a Military E-2000 series machine.  The Military type usually had the display up in the top award glass area.


Jim

[rjpohl]

not sure if it's military model or not, maybe this picture will help.
I'll try pressing the 2 buttons on hopper tomorrow and report back what happens.

[proten]

That is a single line six coin machine and does not appear to be a military machine.
One of the two buttons is a " test" and the other is a " reset".

[tkrozleski]

Coins go into the hopper or to the outside coin bowl?

[Jim]

Bob,  the reason I asked to press the two buttons on the hopper board that will indicate if the cpu is running and the first press of either button will usually reset the machine so you could play it or go into the test mode.

Does the cpu board on the left wall of the machine have a piggyback board attached to it (ram memory)?

does the power supply have crimp or push type connectors  on the plug?

you picture never did come on the post (with the wire circled)

the 5volt  must be at least 5.1 volts  if it is 4.7 or less  it could the plug on the power supply ( the older machines had a pressure push type connector, caused alot of problems with intermittent AC getting into the power supply board, thus low voltage out. it would prevent the machine from running.


Jim

[rjpohl]

Jim,
it does have the piggy back board.
p/s readings:  5 volt: 4, ZC 7v, UR 10v
The power supply has a ivory colored plug, I believe it's what you're calling a push type.  I pulled board and cleaned pins and I also plugged plug on and off several times to clean.
The test and reset buttons don't seem to make any changes.  If I turn machine off and on it some times read 1, other times it has read 50 000 or 2.
I've removed all plugs from both boards, removed a few eproms and reseated.
attached is pic with wire hanging loose on door.

thanks for the help
Bob

[Jim]

If the +5vdc is only reading +4vdc, then that is one problem. while monitoring the +5vdc, wiggle the bottom  three wires on the plug for the power supply, I think they are red with a blue stripe,  if the voltage goes up to 5 volts while doing this then you will have to reseat these wires ,usually a small blade screwdriver will do the trick, I usually solder my wires to the connector to eliminate from happening again.

the other problem you may have:  the ram piggy back board has also caused a lot of intermittent issues, cut out a piece of cardboard and place between the logic board and the cabinet wall (its Metal) , now you can press on this and wiggle this and observe if you machine comes to life. then you have to clean and shape the contacts to eliminate the intermittent issue.

i think that wire may have been used for a electric door lock????

Hope this helps

Jim

[rjpohl]

Jim,
I'll give it a try tomorrow, thanks for the suggestions.
Bob

[Amachanic]

On those powers, you need to remove it and check the solder joints for cracks. The bridge rectifier and diodes also devolop bad solder connections. Also the piggy back ram boards connectors are known to get battery acid damage. If they are acid damage your machine will not boot up. The 5101 ram board chips also go bad. Hope this helps..

Gary

[proten]

You can upgrade it to a E2000 MPU board.
Find a E2000 board and it should be a direct replacement.

[dhellis]

Bob,  the reason I asked to press the two buttons on the hopper board that will indicate if the cpu is running and the first press of either button will usually reset the machine so you could play it or go into the test mode.

Does the cpu board on the left wall of the machine have a piggyback board attached to it (ram memory)?

does the power supply have crimp or push type connectors  on the plug?

you picture never did come on the post (with the wire circled)

the 5volt  must be at least 5.1 volts  if it is 4.7 or less  it could the plug on the power supply ( the older machines had a pressure push type connector, caused alot of problems with intermittent AC getting into the power supply board, thus low voltage out. it would prevent the machine from running.


Jim

The LM340-T5 specification is for 4.8 to 5.2 volts output under full load (1 amp). The plug may well reduce the AC input to the rectifiers and the regulator requires a minimum of 7.5 VDC to guarantee proper regulation. I would also say that if the output voltage is greater than 5.2 volts then you need to fix that as well. IC's (Standard TTL) are designed to operate between 4.75 and 5.25 volts so you don't want to take the chance of blowing an IC

[dhellis]

Jim,
it does have the piggy back board.
p/s readings:  5 volt: 4, ZC 7v, UR 10v
The power supply has a ivory colored plug, I believe it's what you're calling a push type.  I pulled board and cleaned pins and I also plugged plug on and off several times to clean.
The test and reset buttons don't seem to make any changes.  If I turn machine off and on it some times read 1, other times it has read 50 000 or 2.
I've removed all plugs from both boards, removed a few eproms and reseated.
attached is pic with wire hanging loose on door.

thanks for the help
Bob

Somehow I over looked your readings of only 4 volts. This is an issue that will prevent your machine from working. There are 4 individual diodes on the board and then there is the bridge rectifier with the heat sink attached. I would check the individual diodes
to make sure that you do not have one that is open. If the diodes check good then resolder the connections. I have had a couple
of power supplies where bad connections on these diodes has reduced the output voltage. That may seem strange because the
UR (UnRegulated voltage) is sufficient for the regulator.

[rjpohl]

Hi Guys, I've been a little busy the last few days and haven't been able to get back on this machine.  Hopefully things will slow down a bit shortly and I will.  Thanks for all the help and Merry Christmas and God Bless!

[rjpohl]

I'm very happy to report that this slot is back to life and works great.
Special thanks to dhellis for repairing my mpu and i/o boards.  If any of you guys need your boards or power supplies tested and repaired I highly recommend you contact him. 

Thanks again to all that helped through this project.
Bob

[dhellis]

I'm very happy to report that this slot is back to life and works great.
Special thanks to dhellis for repairing my mpu and i/o boards.  If any of you guys need your boards or power supplies tested and repaired I highly recommend you contact him. 

Thanks again to all that helped through this project.
Bob

Glad to hear this one is up and running and thank you for the recommendation

[dhellis]

I had intended to add more information on what the issues were so that others that encountered similar issues would have some idea of what to check.


The power supply voltage (5 volt) measured 4 volts UR and ZC were within range. The UR voltage is also the input to the 5 volt regulator so if that
voltage is ok then one thinks that the LM340-T5 (7805) would be bad. That was not the case on this supply. The actual problem was the 2 Mfd capacitor
on the output of the 5 volt regulator.

The MPU board tested good

The IO card had a bad 5 volt regulator (U2) this regulator supplies Vcc voltage to all of the 74174 IC chips so with this being bad, nothing will work.
There was also 2 bad triacs, Q22 and Q32. Q22 turns on the light for pay line 3 and Q32 turns on the reel readers