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| | |-+  Haywire Deluxe - Newbie - Won't turn on
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Author Topic: Haywire Deluxe - Newbie - Won't turn on  (Read 18627 times)
reado10
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« on: January 06, 2014, 08:09:05 PM »

Firstly, hello from England!

I have just purchased an IGT Haywire Deluxe (I believe an S-plus model) and i'm having a problem with it powering on.

When I say powering on, once switched on, the reels twitch a little and have friction against them if you try and move them, but nothing lights up at all, and that is basically it.

I have checked the three fuses, reseated the MPU and had a look around for anything obvious.

Any help greatly appreciated as there seems to be a limited knowledge of these models here in the UK Sad

Thanks again,


Paul
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Oscar Pompa
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« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2014, 10:12:55 PM »

check the cable from the left side of the power supply (where the fuses are) goint to where it sits the MPU sometimes it have bad contact, try to see if the display turns on when you move the cable,  i got that prolem 2 or 3 tiimes in  S+
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reado10
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« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2014, 10:33:08 PM »

Thanks for the reply. Connector and pins on the board look fine, no dark patches etc. Have moved the connector around and nothing changes. I do seem to have power to the reels as they have tension against them when it's switched on.


Paul
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Oscar Pompa
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« Reply #3 on: January 07, 2014, 12:42:01 AM »

one time I had  tension but nothing on the display like you and i  changed the power supply , that worked for me.
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CVslots
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« Reply #4 on: January 07, 2014, 02:32:34 AM »

Do you have any readings in the display??? I am still thinking fuse or fuse holders....
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reado10
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« Reply #5 on: January 07, 2014, 01:23:30 PM »

No readings whatsoever, no lights, just the initial very very slight movement of the reels and the friction against them. Apart from that, it appears totally 'dead'. I have checked the three fuses and they meter good.

Paul
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #6 on: January 07, 2014, 01:28:08 PM »

hmm...are you running 220 volts in the electrical outlets in the U.K.?
I'd be opening up that power supply box top panel and checking if the bus bar is jumped correctly.

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reado10
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« Reply #7 on: January 07, 2014, 01:31:00 PM »

Could you give me a little more info or steps to check how the machine is configured power wise?

I am currently running it on a 220v to 110v step down transformer, the same that I use for my Jukeboxes etc. I have tested the transformer on another machine and it works fine.

Thanks,

Paul
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #8 on: January 07, 2014, 01:41:14 PM »

okay...good answer reado10!
I' suspecting the transformer may or may not be putting out enough amps but you do say the reels are in holding mode when the machine is powered up...that's a good sign.

Make sure your 3 fuses are: from top to bottom...>>>6A, 8A, and 6A quick blow fuses ( Little thin wire inside the glass tube)


The IGT S+ is designed to run on both currents (110 v or 220v) providing you move a jumper in the Bus bar located
on the floor in the power supply box.
Give me a couple of minutes and I will dig out the info for you okay?
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reado10
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« Reply #9 on: January 07, 2014, 01:42:38 PM »

Thats really helpful, thank you Smiley


Paul
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #10 on: January 07, 2014, 01:59:08 PM »

I need a little more help from you.
Is your power supply box on the bottom right of the machine floor or
in back center of the cabinet?

IGT made a few styles of the S+.
They also moved the MPU to the back rear of the machine from the left hand wall.
I'm wondering exactly which machine cabinet set-up you have?
A picture ofyour machine's guts is worth many words here!  yes

ALso, I'm guessing you don't have a 220v cord to run from the power supply to the wall outlet?
The wall plugs are different from the U.S.A. ones.
We might have to stay with 110v and your transformer.
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reado10
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« Reply #11 on: January 07, 2014, 02:00:36 PM »

Thanks for your reply. I am not with it until later so will take a picture then if it helps, but the power supply box is on the back wall, and the MPU is on the left wall of the machine, looking in from the front.

Paul
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #12 on: January 07, 2014, 02:13:16 PM »

ok...then your set-up is like this?


* S+ interior 002.JPG (1018.58 KB, 2576x1932 - viewed 306 times.)
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reado10
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« Reply #13 on: January 07, 2014, 02:14:04 PM »

Exactly like that!
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CVslots
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« Reply #14 on: January 07, 2014, 02:26:30 PM »

And you've checked all your molex plugs on the backplane/motherboard? Here are some notes I had on this (most likely from Jim/MidWest Slots or Stayoutofthebunker!):

If all the fuses are good, then check molexes on motherboard:

Pull the hopper out.

On the motherboard (the small board that is directly behind the hopper), there are a series of molexes that are connected to it. The big one in the middle is the one that has all the power connectors. Remove this one. Use a pen knife and/or a white eraser and clean the pins as best you can.  Check this molex for signs of scorching. Ideally you should replace this connector you can usually get away with cleaning it up. use a bit of contact spray and a little wire brush. Reseat the connector.
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reado10
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« Reply #15 on: January 07, 2014, 02:30:19 PM »

And you've checked all your molex plugs on the backplane/motherboard? Here are some notes I had on this (most likely from Jim/MidWest Slots or Stayoutofthebunker!):

If all the fuses are good, then check molexes on motherboard:

Pull the hopper out.

On the motherboard (the small board that is directly behind the hopper), there are a series of molexes that are connected to it. The big one in the middle is the one that has all the power connectors. Remove this one. Use a pen knife and/or a white eraser and clean the pins as best you can.  Check this molex for signs of scorching. Ideally you should replace this connector you can usually get away with cleaning it up. use a bit of contact spray and a little wire brush. Reseat the connector.

Thanks for this. After some reading last night, I read that the Molex was a common problem on them, so did have a look (6 pin one I believe might be the most common problem?) and they all seemed exceptionally clean and intact. I did give them a little wriggle with it powered on and didnt get as much as a flicker. I will re-check them again of course Smiley I read that if there is friction against the reels, this means there is a fair chance that connector is fine, is that the case?

Thanks to you all so far for your help.

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CVslots
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« Reply #16 on: January 07, 2014, 02:42:15 PM »

Do you remember if the denomination light is lit on power up? (It's the one in the center of the reel glass (under middle reel) that has a sticker saying 25c, 5c, or $1. Is this lit?
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #17 on: January 07, 2014, 02:43:55 PM »

That's goodnews and bad news...lol...I'll tell you why...>>>

If your machine has the exact same service outlet located like mine in the picture, then it's a USA machine that wasshipped to the UK.
If you click on my photo above, you'll see the white, square "Service Receptacle" on top of the transformer next the the largest orange decal label. That's a USA outlet.

If you have a multimeter, you can set it at 220v and stick the multimeter probes into the "Service" outlet and seee what voltage is coming out of there....offhand, I'm guessing 110v because you are running the machine off a 110v transformer.
This "Service" outlet is always "LIVE" as long as the machine is plugged into a wall outlet!!
It is NOT switchable and stays "LIVE" because it runs directly inline with the power cord in the wall.

I am still suspecting your power tansformer that you're using isnt strong enough as an S+ uses quite a bit of amps when the hopper is running ( it's not running right now tho) and may explain why the fluorescent lights aren't kicking on?

Let's try a test for kicks without the display on.
The machine can  run without the display showing anything!
This is what you can do at the moment...>>>

Open the door, flip on the power switch, check to see if the reels are "stiff" (in holding mode really), and press the little button on the bottom edge of the coin-in optics board.

This coin-in optics board located under the coin comparitor will have a dark rusty red 10-pin connnector with 8 wires going into it.

The little button on the coin-in optics board is called a "Service Coin" switch.
Every time you press the button, it will add one credit to the game being played...you should also hear a ding sound each time you press the Service Coin button as well....however, you may not hear anything if the speakers aren't working correctly or the volume is too low.
Press it once and press the "Spin Reels" button on the deck. The machine should "play" one game.
This is verified if the reels spin to new stops!

If you can play a game without the display working, then the problem may lay with the display lamps being burnt out.

Also, is the coin denomination sticker ( 25 cents I assume?) lit up at all?

If not, rotate the lamp holder and pull it out and see if it's burned out?

haha...CV responded while I was typing with one finger.... Tongue Out rotflmao
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« Reply #18 on: January 07, 2014, 03:24:52 PM »

Won't a bad fluorescent lighter starter also kill these machines? You might try pulling the starters for the top, reel and belly lights to see if it helps
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reado10
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« Reply #19 on: January 07, 2014, 03:25:26 PM »

Wow, what a reply! Lol!

Okay, so I have just rushed home like an excited kid to have a play.

The domination light wasn't lit, however, I switched a lamp with another and and it is now lit. So a faulty lamp there which is more progress than I have had so far!

I think I have the same service port as you, the Slot was sold through a company in Vegas that no longer exists and shipped here to the UK from what I know. Like you said, as I am running it on a step down, its 110v.

The question going through my mind is has somebody re-wired for 220v, and therefore i'm not giving it enough power?

I have a power transformer giving 300w is this enough. I have tried it with the hopper in and out, but no change.

In an ideal world, I would wire for 220v and make myself a power lead with the US plug one end and UK the other. Is this simple to do?

Ok, so the test. The coin comparator has been changed to take UK 10pence coins. However, there is no green light on the comparator, it's not lighting. So when the button is pressed, nothing happens. I did try and spin just incase but nothing.

Here are some pictures with power applied:




* photo 2.JPG (1671.95 KB, 3264x2448 - viewed 318 times.)
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reado10
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« Reply #20 on: January 07, 2014, 03:26:03 PM »

And another Smiley


* photo 1.JPG (2015.24 KB, 3264x2448 - viewed 303 times.)
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reado10
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« Reply #21 on: January 07, 2014, 03:31:54 PM »

I forgot to mention. The reels are stiff and I get one click from the speaker when I power it on.

Paul
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reado10
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« Reply #22 on: January 07, 2014, 03:32:59 PM »

Won't a bad fluorescent lighter starter also kill these machines? You might try pulling the starters for the top, reel and belly lights to see if it helps

Starters removed. No change. Thank you for your suggestion though.
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Neonkiss
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« Reply #23 on: January 07, 2014, 04:04:52 PM »

isn't the power supply selectable for 110 or 220 volts?
I don't have my notes currently in front of me right now but I believe there's a purple wire that can be changed in the power supply to go from 110 volt to 220 volts.  if the previous owner had already done this that would explain the low power that you're seeing now
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reado10
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« Reply #24 on: January 07, 2014, 04:09:38 PM »

isn't the power supply selectable for 110 or 220 volts?
I don't have my notes currently in front of me right now but I believe there's a purple wire that can be changed in the power supply to go from 110 volt to 220 volts.  if the previous owner had already done this that would explain the low power that you're seeing now

Interesting. Would love to know how to check this. Really don't want to give it 220v and kill it completely without being sure.

Paul
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