reel 3 tilt & door open M

[wla357]

was playing machine (s2k) and the reels all started spinning slowly (like when there's a problem) - it was then i noticed the error messages "reel 3 tilt & door open M" alternating. opened the machine and saw reel 3 had a part of the strip hanging out half an inch or so. i taped up all three with scotch tape (hadn't done that before cause i don't like how it looks). anyway, turned the machine back on and same thing. tests ram and then goes to netplex checking and starts the reels spinning slowly with the same error messages.

i looked on the previous answers here and found it might be bad door optics or misaligned or whatever. so i read about how to bypass them and think i did (see pic - i think i followed buzz's instructions - just tied the green and red/white together without using the cherry switch at all - don't pay attention to the bare wires - will clean those up when i get the machine working again)

plus i also bypassed the belly door switch for good measure. turned the machine back on and same error messages. i don't understand why it's thinking the main door is open when the optics are completely bypassed (if i did it right).

i switched out the reel harness with a spare i had and same errors.

i switched in 3 new reels from another game and same errors.

i tried key chipping (31), but since there are credits on the machine it doesn't do anything. can't get rid of credits cause cash out never becomes an option before errors come up.

anybody got any suggestions? do i need to clear the machine and start over? i've been avoiding clearing cause i hate resetting everything, but i'm outa ideas.

[Bettor Slots]

If any thing touches a reel during a spin it will tilt.  Sounds like the strip that was loose whacked a wire and caused the tilt.  Whenever you get a reel tilt error and they start spinning slowly like that, to correct the problem, just open the door and turn the jackpot key one time.  The reels will stop spinning.  Close the door, the machine resets itself, and you are back in business.  Of course you want to correct the problem that caused the reel tilt in the first place.  Sounds like you did that.

As far as the open door M error....if your door is open...that's the message you get.  If you close the door and you still have the error, likely it's a stacked error, waiting for you to clear the reel tilt first.

[wla357]

with the door optics bypassed the way i did, i unconnected those two wires in the pic in order to simulate the door being open and turned the jackpot key and sure enough the reels did stop spinning. it went into the accounting menu and when i hit bet max to get out of that it displayed the same errors. i twisted the wires back together to indicate the door was closed but still the same reel 3 tilt and door open m messages. i powered down the machine and brought it back up. this time it spun the reels backwards at full speed like normal but then started spinning them slowly again and displaying the same errors. i was able to stop the reels by turning the jackpot key, but still have the same errors preventing the machine from operating.

[wla357]

when the reels stopped spinning they all stopped on position 0 and in the i/o menus each reel is listed as a "1" indicating the machine sees them, including reel 3. or at least i think that's what it means! lol

[Bettor Slots]

After turning the jackpot key to stop the reels....try opening and closing the door 2 or 3 times, about 10 seconds apart and see if the errors go away.

The reels spinning backward at start-up is generally not a good thing...more often than not it's an indicator the back plane or main computer board or both has a problem.

[wla357]

my bad on the reel spin direction. they are spinning in the normal direction at normal speed one time but then slow down. i opened the door, turned the jackpot key, the reels all stop on zero, then i close the door. i am in the accounting menu, i press max bet to get out and get the same errors. i opened and closed the door several times 10 seconds apart with no difference.

[Bettor Slots]

I'm confused as to why you are taken to the accounting menu unless you are turning the jackpot key twice.  If you are getting a reel tilt error and you turn jp key once, the reels should stop spinning and the tilt error on the menu should go away, leaving only one error door open M.

Try this....Turn the machine off, wait a few, turn the machine on and let it boot with the door OPEN.  Then watch the menu and the reels.  Are you still getting the reel tilt error and after they all spin quickly / separately and then stop, do they still all start to spin slowly together and do you still get a reel tilt 3 error?

[wla357]

door open, power on. wait for it to test memory, then it connects netplex and spins the reels full speed. each stops independently and then all three start to spin slowly at the same time with the same errors (reel tilt 3 and door open m). if i turn the jackpot key ONLY once it goes into the accounting menu. i can go to menus 2 and 4 besides accounting (1). if i press the bet max it exits the menus but gives me the same errors.

[Bettor Slots]

hmmm....well not great then.  I'm leaning towards the possibility that your board has failed and needs to be replaced.  Do you have a spare you can try?

[Buzz]

Bill One of the reasons I hate bypassing the optics is to clear a error you have to remember to disconnect the bypass wire every time. Now if the reels are spinning slow you must open the door and then turn the key, with the optic bypassed this means you must disconnect the wire and then turn the key. ( as you can see it becomes a big pain in the butt.)( the cherry switch helps )

I've had reels spin backwards before and I don't know why they did, well one time it was a bad IO, but I've never had to change a MPU or Mother board to get the machine working. I did have a whole bunch of machines that had SG000155 game chips and was getting a whole lot of slow reel spins,  changed the Game chips to SG000363 and that fix that problem. I'd say about 20 of the machines I left the 155s in them and they worked fine and about 40 I changed to the 363s

[therockinelvis]

I agree. It sounds like he has bypassed the door optics and when he is opening the door and turning the key it does no good because he has to undo the bypass then turn the key so the machine will see the door open. Then do his bypass again before closing the door.

[wla357]

yeah buzz, about the second time i did the open door, turn key, close door routine i said enough and ran the red and green to the cherry switch for ease of use. however, still no change on the above description. i'm posting a couple more pics here just so you guys can tell me if i bypassed the optics correctly. (don't pay attention to the color red wire at the top - there is a connector about six inches away from that where that red wire is connected to the green wire.)

according to my meter when that switch is open between the green - white/red wires you see bare in the second pic there is about 2k ohms resistance - i assume this is from looking backwards through the optics? when the switch is closed it's got no resistance as in complete circuit. do i have it right?

[therockinelvis]

If your machine is not seeing the door as closed and it is not the optics, it must be the board. Check the board and look for a green battery. Quite often it will go bad and leak. When it does it eats the trace under it for the door optics. I have read of some being able to jump the trace, but have had no luck myself. I have bought replacement boards for mine. Do you have another S2000 to swap boards? None of my machines have the "R" enhanced board so I remove the green battery as soon as I get it. Just my thoughts.

[wla357]

unfortunately do not have a spare board. probably ought to get one. it is not the enhanced version and buzz had me take off the battery first thing i got the machine a year ago and discovered this forum. luckily i took it off before there was any sign of corrosion. i guess i oughta buy another board and try it huh? i'll try cvslots and rudys.

[wla357]

are we talking about the cpu board?

[therockinelvis]

Yes. It slides out from the left side. You have a coin size battery and most likely that pesky GREEN Varta battery. It causes lot's of problems on 502 boards.

[qbert]

Before you replace the mpu have you tried pulling the mpu  board and reseating the chips on the board?
Be careful not to bend any pins when doing this.
I recently had a similar problem with reel tilts on my haywire and just reseating the mpu  board fixed the problem.

Rich

[wla357]

i will try that as well. i was going to pull the mpu and look carefully by the traces of the old battery that i took off to make sure no corrosion has snuck in either. plus, i ordered a new 502 board from cvslots - i always wanted to have a spare anyway. if i can get the machine going before it gets here so much the better. thanks for the advice, though! will definitely double check chips when i look for the corrosion today.

[wla357]

ok, just got my new 502 board from roz. plugged in everything double checking again for no bent pins and powered up. after bootup and turning key four times and pressing test button for 2 seconds it tells me to close door which i do. the close door message will never go away. i've gotta have the main door switch bypassed incorrectly. can anyone look at the pics i've posted and tell me what i'm doing wrong?

[Buzz]

You need just one wire that goes from the red/white wire at the plug and attach it to the cherry switch ( it looks like you have it correct.) The picture of your cherry switch the solid red wire will go to the solid green wire from your door optic.  You do not need the black wire nor the white wire I see in the picture.

Let me try to explane it a different way. You need one wire to go from the plug below #1 reel using the red/white wire at the plug, run it to the solid green wire at the cabinet optic. Now that's all you need just that one wire. With just that one wire hooked up this way the door optics are bypassed. NOW cut that one wire somewhere in the middle and run each end of it up to the cherry switch and put them on the same terminials you have in your picture.

[wla357]

ok, here is the final windup. maybe my experience can help others in the future.

first, the machine encountered a reel tilt. from talking to buzz, i believe it was because either the door optics went out or became misaligned. at the same time i noticed the reel 3 strip had come loose and was poking out about half an inch. i thought THIS was the cause for the reel tilt so i taped it back up, added tape to the other two reels and booted up the machine again. i could not clear the error because i couldn't get the machine to see that the door was closed since, evidently, the optics were the ORIGINAL problem.

at this point i remembered buzz had told me something year or so ago about bypassing optics. so i looked up that thread and followed the instructions - i thought. buzz even checked my work and agreed it appeared the optics were bypassed.

we still couldn't get the machine to think the door was closed. maybe the mpu had a problem? ordered a new one from roz. got here in just two days. board looks great - swapped in some chips and booted up. same thing - close the door, dummy. machine still didn't see the door as being closed.

buzz called. we walked through the whole thing again. nada. looked like everything was correct. the ONLY thing that was a question was the purple wire on the cabinet side - in other words the OTHER side of the optics. buzz has hot-wired hunnerds of these things only using the green side. however, foster says to hook up the purple side too.

i ran resistance checks. turns out the resistance between the red/white wire (under reel 1) and the door red wire was about 1000 ohms - not 3 or 4 like i would have thought (closed circuit).

so i started over. pulled the door and cabinet optic sensors completely out. snipped the wires. then i connected the two cut wires individually at the door optics directly to the two cut wires at the cabinet optic on the harness side using jumpers. powered up the machine. after 4 jackpot key turns the display now says "call attendant"! ha! only after i connected both wires on both sides of the optics together did the machine finally see the door as being closed.

why? i haven't a clue. something different about my s2k, evidently. so i ran new wires all the way down the door and to the harness behind the cabinet cherry switch. then i used the available two normally open switch contacts on the cherry switch to make the machine act like the door is open when the cherry switch is out and closed when it's in. i hope the pics make it clear.

i put back in my original mpu and everything operates great. now i have a spare mpu which i always wanted to get anyway.

thanks for all the help everybody and especially buzz. the guy always goes waaaaaaay above and beyond.

first pic is the cherry switch connection (the upper two wires are the new connection. the lower two are the already connected interior service light). the second pic is up at the door optic area. pic in next post is down at the cabinet wiring harness directly behind and below the cabinet optic area.

[wla357]

third pic is down at the cabinet wiring harness directly behind and below the cabinet optic area.

note that the red/white wire and black wire connection (below reel 1) is NOT used at all. i left it with the molex connector cut off. i'm not sure what would happen if i reconnected it. when i first started those two wires were connected together via a factory jumper. now they are not connected to each other or anything else.

[wla357]

just another followup: the wires with the factory jumper that i left disconnected caused the lower candle light to blink fast even with the door closed and game operating. i reconnected those two wires (red/white & black) and now candle operates properly with door open and door closed.