IGT S+ Won't Take Credits , Coin or Validator

[nipsmg]

Quick Background- Got a IGT S+ 5x pay (Game prom 731, Reel Prom 6273.).  Was missing a ton of parts.
Sourced and installed:

• dbv200 head, transport + power supply
• coin comparator & $0.25 optics
• $0.25 hopper

Fixed the following issues:

Error 12 - Replaced battery
Error 61 -
   Attempted holding test button.  No *ding*, no 61-1
   Tried multiple times, no help
   Tried Clear chip.  Put in chip, hit button, watched numbers cycle, Numbers ended on 999, replaced game prom. No dice.
   Found post that suggested unplugging door optics.  Unplugged door optics on cabinet side, cycled power, able to get 61-1. Close door, Turn key.  Machine posts 65-1
Error 65-1 :  Power Down Machine, Power Back on , Error 61. Push button, 61-1. Close door, turn key, game comes to life.

Now, the "Insert Coin" light is on.  Drop in token (have token in comparator for sizing as well), drops through to tray.  I figure it's a bad size.  

Put real quarter in comparator.  Drop quarter in slot.  Drops out to tray. NO CREDIT.

I check all connectors in the harness, all are plugged in .  Green light on comparator IS NOT ON. (should it be?)

Decide to activate bill validator:

Set chip install, drop in board, power up.  Push Spin Reels until 9-1 shows. Press white button.  Press spin reels until 25 shows. Press white button.

Power down, swap in Game Prom, put back together , power up.  On power up, the validator spins gears, makes noises.  Red LEDs inside validator ARE ON.  Validator will not take in bills.
Comparator will not accept coins.  The "insert bills" insert is not backlit at this time.

Could this be bad door optics?  I had ot disconnect the door optics to clear the 61, so I'm thinking maybe they're bad.  Any way to bypass in order to determine for sure?  Any other ideas?  I'm so close to having this machine working.. this is hopefully the last issue.
  

[stayouttadabunker]

First of all, when you reach a [65-1] code, all you should do is press and hold in the little white Test button for a couple of seconds.
Powering down and powering back only returns you back to the [61] code.


"Green light on comparator IS NOT ON. (should it be?)"
Only when the door is closed the light comes on the coin comparitor.
It should be OFF when the door is opened.

A couple of things to check:
Wiggle the 2-pin wire connector on top of the CC.
The wires are gray in color.
Those wires are for the "Rake" behind the CC.
Sometimes it's just an oxidized condition.
If the rake doesn't open properly, the coins fall directly into the coin tray.

If that doesn't do anythiing, grab a samll philips screwdriver
and turn the coin sensitivity dial on the CC fully counter-clockwise then turn it clockwise a 1/4 turn.
That may increase coin acceptance.

The best way to check if your optics work is watching the reel glass display as you close the door.
All the numbers on the display panel will go out momentarily after you push the door latch down.

[nipsmg]

First of all, when you reach a [65-1] code, all you should do is press and hold in the little white Test button for a couple of seconds.
Powering down and powering back only returns you back to the [61] code.

Yeah, that's what I did actually.. I was working from memory...  I'll try your suggestions for the coin comparitor as soon as I get home.  Any suggestions for the bill validator?

[stayouttadabunker]

Did you set your Game Denomination for whatever coin you're using?
The machine needs to know a value of the coin, such as .25 cents for example.

The bill acceptor should work once the denom is set.

Once I made a short video of a CC on my workbench.
I've attached it here for you to sort of understand what the coin comparitor "Rake" does
and different conditions that affect it...>>>

http://youtu.be/DaEd8ZnxK0s

[nipsmg]

Yeah, I set the denomination to $0.25.  (first enabled bill validator with set chip by hitting spin reels until it shows 9-1, push white test button.. Then hit spin reels until display shows 25 (first shows 5, 10, then 25). click white test button.

I'm heading home from work now.. can't wait to take a look.

[nipsmg]

stayouttadabunker:

Thanks for the video.  I took a look at it, tried unplugging / re-plugging the wires at the top of the comparitor.  Checked the rake, looks fine, not stuck at all. 

I was able to get credits to take by pushing the white button at the back of the coin optics.  I had a very limited amount of coins in the hopper.  I ran out and got a 3300 message.  I can't get rid of it, because when I close the door nothing happens.  I don't get the "blinking" on the displays when I close the door.  I'm sure the lever is all the way at the bottom as well. 

I'm thinking the door optics are bad and I can't signal "door closed" which is why I can't get the comparitor to take coins, or get the bill validator to take bills.

Any way to bypass the optics for testing purposes?

[nipsmg]

So.. it's door optics. 

On closer examination I saw the door optics on the cabinet side had a broken wire, broken off right at the metal of the infrared LED.  I took off the door optics brackets, closed the door to the point where i could get the two pieces in proximity of each other and held the broken exposed wire end to the point where it broke off of the LED, while holding the LED against the opposite side.  The reels spun and the 3300 error cleared.  The LED on the comparitor also lit up..

I need a new LED.  Is there a replacement LED I can wire in, or does anyone have a good source for the door optics?

[CVslots]

We have them...

http://www.centralvalleyslots.com/ss2000--door-op2000.html

[nipsmg]

Awesome.. Ordered.

In the meantime however, I'd like to see if i can replace the infrared diode temporarily so I can test out the rest of the parts I've recently installed.  It looks like a local electronics store has the following options:

1. Infrared Emitting diode 
3mm (T-1) @ 50MA  Max forward Voltage 1.6V, Typical Voltage 1.4V, Viewing Angle 30 Degrees
5mm (T-1 3/4) @50MA Max forward Voltage 1.6V, Typical Voltage 1.4V, Viewing Angle 45 Degrees

2.NTE3033 Infrared Photodiode: http://www.nteinc.com/specs/3000to3099/pdf/nte3033.pdf
3. NTE3017 Infrared Emitting Diode High Spped for Remote control : http://www.nteinc.com/specs/3000to3099/pdf/nte3017.pdf

Could I wire any of these directly in place of the infrared LED on the case?  Do I need anything else inline? (resistors, etc)? 

Thanks in advance.

[stayouttadabunker]

I'm sure you can use those.You don't need anything else.
Door optics are pretty straightforward. An emitter and a reciever.

I've used some UV leds from old coin-in optics boards as they come with 3 sets per board but I'd order some from a vendor because there's no soldering involved and you get get the right connectors.

A quick fix for now, can you solder the broken wire back to the lamp?
A little bit of micro-soldering could get you back up and running until the new ones come in?
Sometimes even your local Radio Shack carries them although a little larger.
How about and old TV remote control you're not using anymore? 
Emitter optics are everywhere nowadays... Lol

[nipsmg]

I tried soldering the lead back to the lamp, no dice.  It broke off clean right at the lamp, and all my attempts to solder to that point failed miserably. 

I found some IR leds at radio shack.  I already ordered new door optics, so I'm just going to snip the wires for now and wire it up.  I want this hunk of metal working!!! 

[stayouttadabunker]

Okay..If you make a door optic bypass harness for the S+, remember not to cross wires or you'll screw up the optic chips on the MPU board! To make matters worse, you're gonna have to buy a new MPU!!  Ugh!!!

Here's how to do it safely.
Since your door optic is shot, snip the lamp off but keep the 2-pin Molex connector with the red and black wires.
This door connector 2-pin Molex has a green and black wire but IGT has the green wire going to the emitter's black wire!!!
Why? I have no bloody idea!!

To differentate which optics went on the door and which ones went on the cabinet side.
IGT made the wires for the cabinet-side reciever optics red and white so the workers wouldn't
mix them up when installing the machines on the assembly line????!!
Soooo, make sure the cabinet-side's red reciever optic wires are connected together. 

To hook up the door emitter correctly to the cabinet-side reciever , just remember this tip...>>> look at the 2-pin Molex's.
You will see that one side of the Molex housing is sort of pointy.

Connect pointy side to pointy side!!!

I hope you get this!
Too many guys emailed me asking why the bypass harness wasn't working and it was because of the door optics wiring colors!
Guys were making the harness backwards connecting black-to-black!!!
I actually had to make a drawing of this and put it up here somewhere...I've long since have lost that drawing....It's buried in NLG somewhere! LOL

 

[therockinelvis]

2 weeks ago we said bad door optics. Glad he finally got it.

[nipsmg]

You ROCK! Thanks a ton.  Bypass cable worked like a charm.  Comparitor works, the machine has come to life.  Got a few quirks to iron out settings-wise.  Thanks for the tip on the bypass cable.  I twisted some wires together and got it recognizing door closed.  Now i just need to solder a proper cableg together, route it properly, and just leave it there for maintenance purposes.  

[CVslots]

So do you want to proceed with your order or cancel it? It's no big deal either way,just let me know. 

[nipsmg]

Nah i want to get this machine in fully working order.  It's just nice to have the cable when doing maintenance.

[nipsmg]

2 weeks ago we said bad door optics. Glad he finally got it.

I think you may be thinking about someone else.  I'm the one who originally suggested door optics, and i've only had the battery to clear the error 12 for 2 days.

[knagl]

Nah i want to get this machine in fully working order.  It's just nice to have the cable when doing maintenance.

This is good.  Some finicky SP chips require working optics to get past a 61 error.  It's good to have all of the correct components in your machine.