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| | |-+  Help - testing a Bally 6000 power supply		 0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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Author Topic: Help - testing a Bally 6000 power supply  (Read 8317 times)
JimSlot
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« on: February 14, 2014, 05:29:19 PM »
From a previous thread, I noted that I was having a problem with my BV going to green arrows.  I got that problem resolved by switching stuff between a working 6000 and the 6000 that was being sold. Only thing was that it wasn't clear what actually fixed it.   I'm now looking at the remaining 6000 and it now has the BV problem.  The BV cycles and then just goes to red  Based on posts that I received some folks suggested that it could be the power supply.  Since I no longer have another power supply to swap, I was wondering if there is a way to test the power supply using a volt meter or ESR meter.  I searched the forum to try to find something about the pin readouts but didn't find anything.  I have the manual but it doesn't look like the schematics match three plugs that are coming out of the PS.

Can anyone provide some help on how I can go about testing the PS?

Thanks,
Jim
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Jim
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« Reply #1 on: February 14, 2014, 05:38:41 PM »
doesn't the backplane board have  test points for all the voltages??  I think they are located on the bottom left of the backplane board.




Jim 
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MIDWEST SLOTS   Selling Quality Slot Machines since 1995.  We service and repair all types of slot machines. Mills, Jennings, Bally EM, 1000/2000 series, Proslot, 6000. IGT  M, M+ ,S,  S+, S-2000,  I-Game,  Universal,  Video Poker, Sigma.
JimSlot
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« Reply #2 on: February 14, 2014, 05:52:06 PM »
Jim,

Thanks for the reply.  I didn't notice.  I just pulled the power supply to see if I could find something obvious so the PS is just sitting on my work bench.  I'll put it back in and check the backplane.

Thanks-

Jim
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dhellis
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« Reply #3 on: February 14, 2014, 05:56:23 PM »
The attached manual will show you were the voltages are on the edge connector of the supply. I would swap out any
capacitor that has a bulge.
* Bally5500PS.pdf (1154.3 KB - downloaded 341 times.)
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JimSlot
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« Reply #4 on: February 14, 2014, 05:59:06 PM »
Quote from: dhellis on February 14, 2014, 05:56:23 PM
The attached manual will show you were the voltages are on the edge connector of the supply. I would swap out any
capacitor that has a bulge.

Thanks for the attachment.  I guess 5500 and 6000 share the same PS??

This gives me a good start.
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dhellis
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« Reply #5 on: February 14, 2014, 06:12:46 PM »
There is also a manual for the bally power supply repairs that covers many of the older models all the way up to the
pro series and game maker.

http://www.coinslots.com/manuals/bally/
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JimSlot
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« Reply #6 on: February 14, 2014, 07:03:23 PM »
Quote from: dhellis on February 14, 2014, 06:12:46 PM
There is also a manual for the bally power supply repairs that covers many of the older models all the way up to the
pro series and game maker.

http://www.coinslots.com/manuals/bally/



Great - thanks
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JimSlot
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« Reply #7 on: February 14, 2014, 07:43:42 PM »
Quote from: dhellis on February 14, 2014, 05:56:23 PM
The attached manual will show you were the voltages are on the edge connector of the supply. I would swap out any
capacitor that has a bulge.

My board is giving me the -12, 5, 5, and +12 voltages as the attachment indicates.  I guess that means the power supply is ok??   I ran the power directly to the board since I couldn't figure out quickly which wires went to the power switch that I would have to jump at the power supply.

On visual inspection, all caps seem to be OK.  I don't see any bulges or sign of leakage.  I also couldn't get a voltage on the huge blue capacitor since I guess it's associated with the circuit for the power switch???
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Jim
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« Reply #8 on: February 14, 2014, 08:40:49 PM »
there are two power supplies in that metal box. one provides the voltages you checked (its a self contained and replaceable  board)  the other consists of the blue cap and the bridge rectifier that supply +24vdc to the reel assemblies. all the connectors have to be in place to check these  out,because they run out to the fuse panel and transformer.
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MIDWEST SLOTS   Selling Quality Slot Machines since 1995.  We service and repair all types of slot machines. Mills, Jennings, Bally EM, 1000/2000 series, Proslot, 6000. IGT  M, M+ ,S,  S+, S-2000,  I-Game,  Universal,  Video Poker, Sigma.
JimSlot
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« Reply #9 on: February 14, 2014, 11:24:35 PM »
Quote from: Jim on February 14, 2014, 08:40:49 PM
there are two power supplies in that metal box. one provides the voltages you checked (its a self contained and replaceable  board)  the other consists of the blue cap and the bridge rectifier that supply +24vdc to the reel assemblies. all the connectors have to be in place to check these  out,because they run out to the fuse panel and transformer.
Ok, I put the load on and the blue capacitor read 24 volts.  All of the diodes on the rectifier tested fine.  When I tested the voltage going into the rectifier, it was 18V AC and came out 16.5V DC.  Should this DC voltage be higher?  like 24V?

To make sure I tested the regulator voltage correctly, here is what I tested...I put the leads on the AC inputs (yellow-white and yellow wires)  This voltage read 18V.  I then put the leads on the DC outputs and this read 16.5V

Thanks,
Jim
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dhellis
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« Reply #10 on: February 14, 2014, 11:49:25 PM »
With 18 volts input a DC output of 16 volts sounds about right. In fact, I dug out my Variac applied 18 volts across a bridge rectifier and
that is about what I got out of it as well.
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JimSlot
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« Reply #11 on: February 15, 2014, 01:19:14 AM »
Quote from: dhellis on February 14, 2014, 11:49:25 PM
With 18 volts input a DC output of 16 volts sounds about right. In fact, I dug out my Variac applied 18 volts across a bridge rectifier and
that is about what I got out of it as well.

Do you know if 18V is what I should be getting as input to the rectifier?  Based on what I saw in the manual for the transformer, 18.5 volts is what it indicated, so it's close. 

I also tested via the test points on the backplane and all tested correct voltage except the 7.5V test point.  That tested 0 volts.  What is that 7.5 volts for??

Thanks,
Jim
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Roy$
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« Reply #12 on: February 15, 2014, 11:02:45 PM »
when my dvb 200 bv in a s5500 was acting the same way I went the other direction and just powered it up with a seperate 12 volt power supply to test it and it ran fine so the 12v side of the power supply in the machine has a problem. Im not an electronics expert but the sticer on the bv said 12v dc and i had a seperatte 12v power supply with i hoped enough wattage
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JimSlot
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« Reply #13 on: February 15, 2014, 11:20:31 PM »
Quote from: Roy$ on February 15, 2014, 11:02:45 PM
when my dvb 200 bv in a s5500 was acting the same way I went the other direction and just powered it up with a seperate 12 volt power supply to test it and it ran fine so the 12v side of the power supply in the machine has a problem. Im not an electronics expert but the sticer on the bv said 12v dc and i had a seperatte 12v power supply with i hoped enough wattage

Ok- thanks for the reply. At this point I'm willing to try anything.  How did you connect the separate power supply and still keep the plug in the backplane??

 I'm getting another 6000 in a couple of weeks so I'll have some parts to swap then
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JimSlot
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« Reply #14 on: February 15, 2014, 11:21:05 PM »
Also, do I need the 7.5 volts at the backplane??
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JimSlot
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« Reply #15 on: February 15, 2014, 11:24:10 PM »
Wait, I'm an idiot...I just noticed the 7.5 volts is AC not DC.   It reads 7.2V
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JimSlot
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« Reply #16 on: February 16, 2014, 12:40:31 AM »
Each time I pulled the BV/cashcan the error would read 5529 or 5527.  I took the BV and cashcan out, inspected both looking for anything weird, nothing constituting a bill jam, nothing looking broken, etc.  I checked the prism and it looked ok, I blew some air through the BV, I slapped the cashcan on each side, I manually rolled the gears - then I shoved everything back in and the green arrows CAME ON!!!!  unbelievable...I don't even know what did it.  I turned the machine off and then on and BV is still ok.

Thanks all who replied

Jim
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