Help with a Bally/Summit conversion machine

[tanix]

I purchased this machine sight-unseen with no key for very little money. It appears to be a Bally 800 series (I think) but it has definitely been converted to the Summit system of electronic controls. I've got a couple of questions that I'm hoping you guys can answer.

1. Where can I acquire EM parts? I'm going to get the owner's pictorial guide so that I can speak the correct language, but I know that I need some parts related to the coin path (right now there's nothing that would direct the coin from the coin slot to the coin acceptor) and there are also a couple of cosmetic pieces that I'll eventually want to replace.

2. I know that at least one of the Summit boards needs to be repaired/replaced. Is it worth it? Should I just try to take the machine back to pure electromechanical? I know there's not a ton of value in these machines, but I've got my mind set on resurrecting this machine.

Thanks for any help you can provide!

[Neonkiss]

As for parts you can try Barry Fox at Gallery Slots.
He may not have any Summit parts but will have any parts that you need for the E/M's
Here is a link to his store.
http://stores.ebay.com/Gallery-of-Slots

[Joeylc]

test

[FOXSSLOTS1]

no summit parts - only bally.

[Op-Bell]

Photos, please? If I recall correctly the Summit conversion replaced the wiper boards with opto sensors and took care of the hopper count. If the starwheels still have slots you could perhaps restore it to its original state, but the wiper boards and arms will be very hard to source and it's a hell of a wiring job. Repairing or reverse engineering a faulty Summit board is a possibility.

[FOXSSLOTS1]

summit gutted the bally - there is nothing left that is Bally other than the cabinet. wiring - hopper - reel mech - wire harness are all summit - no way to reverse the procedure within reason.

[Slot Docs]

Hey there, I noticed your post about sumitt conversions and while surfing the web tonight I found this:

http://www.hms-electronics.com/slot_machines/summit%20systems%20slot%20machine%20parts.htm

This guy lists sumitt boards as well as many of the conversion parts. He also says he can custom write software for any 3 4 or 5 reel game. He also has inkjet reproduction reel strips. He also offers a diagnostic chip and telephone tech help (for a fee)
Hope this helps out.
Slot Docs (formerly BuddmanTx on this site)

[klorvinborno]

For anyone else that stumbles across this thread as I did I wanted to let you know how absolutely WONDERFUL the website listed above is.  Last week I didn't even know what kind of machine I had.  Thanks to this post I figured out what I had, an old EM Bally gutted and filled with electronics my summit.  After the first hour on the website I was convinced that my machine was dead and I was about to email them and ask if he wanted a machine for parts.

I started with a DOA machine and followed all the diagnostics and was able to correct problem after problem after problem and amazingly I've now got a 100% working machine!

Just a few minor issue just in case anyone else has one of these, I could really use a picture of the inside of the lock and cam, and also if anyone knows where I can get a  BAR sticker or a file I could print one out for the reels.  I ended up cracking the plastic on one of the reels and the only visible damage is one BAR symbol almost entirely missing.

I'm curious if anyone knows, did Summit do these conversions for Bally, or did they do these entirely on their own?

[klorvinborno]

I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on what my "new" problem might be on one of these machines.

Everything seemed to be working well for the most part and then the second reel solenoid brake started sticking.  My assumption is that the computer tells the solenoid when to engage, however it sticks even with the computer shut off (Power still applied to the machine).  It will release momentarily when the handle is pulled however it locks right back up. 

I'm guessing I'm looking for a stuck switch somewhere, but I hate to totally disassemble the reels just to trace these wires (no I don't have a schematic).

Any guesses would be appreciated!

[klorvinborno]

Could these be the Reel switches?  (my deduction is only based on the fact that there are 3)

If they are is there anyway to fix them? (I tried gentle tapping)

[jay]

They appear to be transistors or SCRs - both can be used for electronic switching.
Just due to the way that they are mounted they appear to be high heat or high current.
They are not mechanical so tapping doesn't help....but does prevent burns if they are hot ..... 

[stayouttadabunker]

Foxslots would be the guy to ask about these.
My suggestion for now is to get all the part numbers you can
off of those black components with the 3 legs as well.
They ma be easily replaceable but I'd wait until Foxslots chimes in...
he may have a complete board to swap out!

[FOXSSLOTS1]

i appreciate the recommendation - however - i do not work on summits - one thing I do know - don't just start replacing parts - just guessing is not the correct way to go.  What about the SUMMIT site mentioned earlier as being so GOOD?   

[stayouttadabunker]

Tell ya the truth,
Those black components sort of look like voltage regulators because
they're all screwed down to a plate which acts as a heat sink.
Regulators throw out a bit of heat and it's imperative to draw out
the heat so they don't burn up.
But, if they are indeed high-voltage" SCR's,
then I can see why they need heat-sinks as well.

Boy, this thread just got screwed up...The original poster was on SEPT 21st.
klorvinborno started talking about his machine halfway through this thread.
We now need a thread-splitter in here...LOL
We don't know if tanix ( the original poster) is around anymore?

[Op-Bell]

The black components have a Teccor 'T' trademark on them, which means they are triacs, since that's what Teccor makes. As there are six of them, I would guess they operate reel, reel, reel, handle release, coin lockout, hopper. Since the wires are colored, it shouldn't be too difficult to trace them out. The metal plate and the six tabs and center pins will go to 50VAC return, chassis ground (usually a yellow wire).
 

[klorvinborno]

Thanks for all the advice, those are the coin in switches.  My error was in my ASSumption that when you turn the switch off for the computer boards that they were actually off.  Pulled the interface board and no sticking coil.  A little cleaning and she's working.

Thanks again for all your help!

[StatFreak]

...
Boy, this thread just got screwed up...The original poster was on SEPT 21st.
klorvinborno started talking about his machine halfway through this thread.
We now need a thread-splitter in here...LOL
We don't know if tanix ( the original poster) is around anymore?

I don't think that the thread needs to be split. tanix checked back five days after posting, but never returned again, and the thread has basically remained on topic.

StatFreak
  Global Moderator