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Author Topic: HELP! New Slot Owner, IGT S+ Triple Diamond  (Read 3869 times)
BeanMan
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« on: May 12, 2009, 08:39:05 PM »

I just bought an IGT Triple Diamond S+ machine two weeks ago.  This is my first machine and I am so excited to get it up and running. But that's where my problem is, I can't get it up and running.  There were some error codes on the machine, which I cleared, but now error code 21 is on and I can't figure out how to fix the problem. 

I have done research into the error 21 code and have done the following...
Put in new coin comparitor
Put in new wire harness that attaches to the coin comparitor and other coin components
Tested the inputs, I know the divertor works

Not sure what else to do...

Any help, suggestions or comments will be greatly appreciated!!

THANKS
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« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2009, 09:01:54 PM »

Most error 21's are coin optics.  Have you tried:

1.  Cleaning the optics.
2.  Make sure your optic encoder (really a coin spacer) is the right size for your coin denomination?
3.  Replacing the coin-in optics?
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BeanMan
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« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2009, 09:51:22 PM »

Thank you for responding so quickly. 
I have cleaned the coin optics by wiping them. 
I forgot to mention that I noticed that the light on the coin comparitor did not light up.  So I tried a new comparitor, no light.  So I tried a new harness, no light.  But divertor still worked...

 I cleaned the optics again, checked the optic encoder which seems to be right size.
While I had the comparitor off I noticed the metal piece that seems to be activated by a magnet on the back of the comparitor.  I drop the coin through and noticed it was deflected the quarter to the reject shoot,  I activate it by using my finger and it coin went to where it needed to.  Now I think I just need to figure out why it isn't working and why there is no light on the comparitor?

Any thoughts?
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cp
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« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2009, 11:15:55 PM »

To put the S+  into a (coin comparitor) 'test"  mode... push the white test button, usually near the on/off switch, most of the time it is on the front, right next to on/off...some placed the white test button on the back of the on/off.  Press the white test button...till you see a 10 in the front left display....(not 10..1)
then, with your JP reset key switch...on the (right) outside of the cabinet,  keyswitch till the 10 increments up to 34.  stop.   you can now "activate"  the coin comparitor by either pressing the Spin button or  pull the Handle down.   Light on CC 16 should come on.  Now, you can insert coins thru the coin comparitor  to see if it is functioning.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #4 on: May 13, 2009, 07:41:54 AM »

Also,
There's a small Phillips screw in a hole on the coin comparitor, turn it clock-wise...it should now accept coins easier.
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BeanMan
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« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2009, 07:51:51 AM »

OK, so I ran the test as "CP" suggested, which the Red light DID come on and while I was holding down the Spin Reels button, it did allow the quarters to drop into the hopper, but only while I was holding down the button.

I turned the little screw but still nothing changed.

Not sure how to clear the 21 error...
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« Reply #6 on: May 13, 2009, 09:23:48 AM »

an error 21 should clear by opening and closing the door.  If closing the door (and lowering the latch) does not clear it, I'm thinking you might have bad door optics.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #7 on: May 13, 2009, 09:26:35 AM »

Okay,
Remove the CC and look down where the optics are....
something may be in there blocking the eyes...
A piece of paper perhaps?
You would not believe how many little pieces of paper I have found in a machine....
they come from a time when the machine was surrounded by paper rolls of coins...
little old ladies would actually stuff paper from the coin rolls into the coin slot there along with quarters.
Anything obstructing the optical eyes will cause a "21" code.
Also, jiggle the wire connectors around the coin mech when you put it back in...
sometimes a connector is a bit loose....
Finally, contacts on connector pins can get oxidized a bit and
cause the power going into the coin mechs and optic boards to fluctuate and be intermittent.
That could be another cause of the "21" code.

I know there's a "11-1" test to check if the coin in optics are functioning.
To do this, push the little white test button until you see "10-1",
Then turn the reset key once to make the numbers display "11-1",
Remove the coin mech, and drop a coin into the coin optics...while watching the display...
You'll see the "11-1" briefly turn into "11-0" as the coin falls through the coin optics.
That means the optics are working and accepting a coin as a credit...
Hope this helps ya!
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Jim
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« Reply #8 on: May 13, 2009, 11:19:27 AM »

Here are a few bits of info that might be helpful to solving your problem:

the coin comparitor light will only come on when the door is closed and in the idle mode(game Play)  outside of testing as CP has advised 

you can test the optics as SOB has stated, only difference is, 10-1, 11-1and 12-1 are three tests for the three optics in the optics ciccuit.

with the coin comp. removed, test 10-1 selected, you should be able to put a folded piece of paper or thin cardboard cut to size( to fit thru the black coin optic piece) and while observing the display watch as it changes from a 1 to a 0.  do this for the remaining others, e.g. 11-1 and 12-1, also push the small white button directly underneath and to the left of the optics. it will respond to on of the three tests, I forgot which one.If you get a response to all of these then your optics are good.to

test the coin in wiring to the logic board, with the game in the service mode ( door open)  you should be able to press the white optics button and put a credit on the game and play it.

I believe SOB meant to say turn the small pot on the coin comp. full ccw.

It wouln'd hurt to unplug and replug the white molex connector that connects the coin comp. to the games' wiring harness.( usually behind and to the right of the coin in assembly.

Depending on your version of sp, you might be able to scroll thru the test menus using the service button opposed to turning the jackpot reset key.
If you want to find out what ss and sp chips you do have see Rick's FAQ section   sp and ss chips.

Jim

you can also go to test  13   and close the door  and the 0 and 1 should toggle, this checks the door optics.
« Last Edit: May 13, 2009, 11:25:50 AM by Jim » Logged

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BeanMan
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« Reply #9 on: May 13, 2009, 08:13:49 PM »

Thanks for all the help!

What I found out from everyones advice...

that 10-1 coin optic test did not change from 1 to 0.  11-1 and 12-1 did though. 
Also the door optic test, 13-0 did not change when opening and closing door.

NOW, on top of that error code 3100 that switches to 1 then back to 3100 is on!

I feel like I am fighting a losing battle.

Can anyone help me with the 3100 error? and will I need to buy new coin optics and door optics?

Thanks again!
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« Reply #10 on: May 13, 2009, 08:25:36 PM »

The 3100 / 1 error is that the machine tried to pay out 1 coin and then there was a hopper error.  Usually clears by opening and closing door, but if your door optics are not working, it's not going to clear.  I would trace the wires from the door optics to make sure that they are not just loose.  You can also use a digital camera to see if the emitter is working. if you look through the viewfinder, you will see the light flicker.


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BeanMan
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« Reply #11 on: May 13, 2009, 08:52:45 PM »

Rick, thanks so much for the camera test!

What I found out was the the door optic on the door itself emits the flashes light but the optic on the machine itself did not.

I followed the wires back from the bum optic and everything seemed to be secured.

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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #12 on: May 13, 2009, 09:03:12 PM »

The optic light that is blinking is the transmitter optic.
It's actually much harder to test the receiver optic light, because that one does not blink when viewed through a camera...
You'll also notice that these optics have different colored wires as well.
Always put the black/red optic on the door and the red/white optics onto the cabinet...they will not work if switched around.

I would run the "10-1" again to verify that dropping a coin does NOT get it to register as "10-0".
Why?,  Because, if the "10-1" does NOT turn to "10-0" when dropping a coin, that means the top optic eye on the coin-in board is shot.
One with very good soldering skills can replace that particular optic if indeed either the "A" optic transmitter or optic receiver is burnt out.
How do you check if the "A" transmitter optic is working? Same way Rick Hunter described to you- with a camera.
If the "A" optic blinks, then you know the "A" receiver is burned out.

Optical transmitters or receivers are readily available at your local Radio Shack store or an online store like mouser.com.
Complete coin- in optic boards are also available from our vendors listed at top on the home page of this website too.
I'd ask them for a new coin-in optics board if possible, esp. if you don't know how to solder small electronics.
The same line of thinking goes for the door and cabinet optics.
« Last Edit: May 13, 2009, 09:11:11 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
Jim
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« Reply #13 on: May 13, 2009, 09:30:22 PM »

As Rick stated until you get the door optics to work you can't do anything!!! period. Does your machine have a bill acceptor?  is the cash can door switch bypassed?  this is usually a good place to start. this will prevent you from getting a good door optic signal. its part of a ground loop.

 In your first post you stated that there were other codes that you cleared! what were they and how did you clear them??

Jim
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BeanMan
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« Reply #14 on: May 13, 2009, 09:41:54 PM »


I checked the door optics and the black/red optic ARE on the door and the red/white optics Are on the cabinet

I ran the 10-1 again and it did not turn to 10-0 at all.

I checked the coin optics with a camera and they all stayed light, no blinking.

Yes, has a bill acceptor, but sure how to check the cash can door switch to see if its bypassed...

I want to make it clear, I have never personally had the machine up and running...
It used to have 3100 error before, but maybe I never cleared it, but it was up before and then switched to 21, but now its back to 3100.
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Jim
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« Reply #15 on: May 13, 2009, 09:54:50 PM »

the door switch on the cash can door is mounted near the lock opening. it is a switch with a roller arm that pushes in when you close and secure that door. if it has wires hooked up to it more then likely it is still active, one way to check is to jam something so you hold that switch  closed as to make the machine believe the door is actually closed, then close the main door and see what happens.

Jim
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BeanMan
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« Reply #16 on: May 13, 2009, 10:21:06 PM »

JIM!!  You are the MAN!!

I found that little switch was stuck on the side and I flipped it back, closed the door and I AM UP AND RUNNING!!! 

I can not thank everyone enough who has helped me get up and playing!!

THANKS YOU!!
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« Reply #17 on: May 14, 2009, 05:36:47 AM »

Great job, guys!  Hail I love when someone gets the help they need here!!  applause K+ to the helpers and one for the helpee!

 Dan (tacman)
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #18 on: May 14, 2009, 07:22:01 AM »

That's fantastic!  yes
Most of the time it's one tiny little thing that causes a machine to flash codes.
If just one little wire is bad or has a loose connection, the machine will not work...
Nearly everything in a machine relies on each other to perform properly.
A big hand for Jim for calling the roller switch!  applause applause
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« Reply #19 on: May 15, 2009, 05:15:03 AM »

Nice!! Very Nice!! Awesome effort on everyones part!! K+ to all!!!
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Frank A
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« Reply #20 on: May 15, 2009, 06:37:06 PM »

I enjoyed following this thread to the happy conclusion. This is what we are all about. Karma to everyone who helped our new friend. It reminds me of the time when I first discovered the group and joined up with my first machine driving me nuts. Great job guys !! Now if I can only get my newly arrived claw crane to work !

Frank A


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Frank A
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