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Author Topic: WMS 400...before I take it apart  (Read 8267 times)
Randy0777
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« on: August 13, 2009, 05:14:00 AM »

For some reason I lost all of the lights . The play buttons,lines played on the left,5 cent,DBV, reel strips,etc. The game plays fine,just no lights  hissy fit I replaced the power supply months ago with an ATX ... Was looking for some thoughts before I tear it apart looking  yes

PS,I know the strips are off some  Tongue Out ,but was waiting for new reels ...which I just picked up  applause


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StatFreak
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« Reply #1 on: August 13, 2009, 05:28:42 AM »

cfh might jump in with a better suggestion, but ATX or not, I'd get out the trusty DVM, start at the PS and the fuses and work my way out. You might also check the door wiring harness to make sure that it's plugged in fully et-cetera as a quick suggestion, but since it plays (buttons work), I'm leaning against that being the culprit.
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Randy0777
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« Reply #2 on: August 13, 2009, 05:33:14 AM »

Thanks for the quick reply  yes
This was my first changeover to a ATX P.S and I put it behind the hopper  frying pan . All the others I put in the top box...which I was going to move this one also. I was thinking same as you ...either PS or fuses. Checked the fuses and "wiggled" the PS connections. Still the same,thats why I figured I would ask to see if its something that happends sometimes  Scratch Head  Just never thought that the backlit reels and the other lights would be on the same circuit.
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« Reply #3 on: August 13, 2009, 05:34:28 AM »

Did you check the voltages coming out of the PS?
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Randy0777
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« Reply #4 on: August 13, 2009, 05:54:58 AM »

LOL, not yet . The way I ran the wires from the ATX and wrapped them all its not that easy  bust gut laughing  I wanted to move the PS anyway,but I can install these three DBVs (which I'm doing now) quicker than checking that supply...until I move it yes . I wrapped evrything in shrink tube and tape (spliced all the joints) .


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Jeff
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« Reply #5 on: August 13, 2009, 10:33:10 AM »

20 volts (about 18vdc) is supplied by the original Wms power
supply (it is unregulated, goes through a bridge
rectifier, filter caps, and a fuse). If that is missing
you will need to check the bridge rectifier/fuse inside
the original Wms power supply box. (credit to Clay)
Make sure you're getting your 18vdc from original lower power
suply, as this supplies voltage to the lamp matrix.  Regards, Jeff
« Last Edit: August 13, 2009, 10:39:00 AM by Jeff » Logged
Randy0777
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« Reply #6 on: August 14, 2009, 06:17:49 AM »

Thanks Jeff... Sometime in the next few days I'm moving the PS and check all of it when I do. Hopefully I'll know soon  yes
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cfh
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« Reply #7 on: August 14, 2009, 08:56:40 AM »

if you go back in the archives there is a post i made
about all the voltages you should check and where
to check them on the lower power supply.

Also there's a long post i made on how to properely
replace the lower power supply with an ATX
computer supply. i personally would not "hack and
slash", you will regret that technique in the
future.
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Randy0777
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« Reply #8 on: August 14, 2009, 03:55:34 PM »

Thanks Clay. Since I had extra harness that went to the back board it was quicker to just splice it. But it is more of a pain if something goes wrong later...which is now  bust gut laughing
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Randy0777
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« Reply #9 on: August 30, 2009, 03:48:31 AM »

Just a quick follow up  BBQ  I pulled the ATX supply from the Jackpot Party and stuck it in another game,which played fine. Installed a "factory" PS in the JP and same thing...no lights .
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cfh
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« Reply #10 on: August 30, 2009, 09:40:50 AM »

The ATX replacement does NOT supply power for the deck lights
(the lamp matrix.)   As mentioned above, 18 or 20 volts unregulated
goes to the original power supply by the transformer. it's rectified
by a bridge, and goes through a fuse. this is all mounted on the
original P.S. board (the big one, the little P.S. board in the original
P.S. is shitcanned.) 

There is another possibility and that's a bad driver i/o slot board.
but if you moved the original P.S. to another game and it
didn't work there, than the P.S. is the problem.

The 18 volts D.C. is fused. You should check that fuse. Again
in the lower P.S. and it's soldered to the board (not very friendly.)
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Slotmaster
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« Reply #11 on: August 30, 2009, 12:24:58 PM »

The ATX replacement does NOT supply power for the deck lights
(the lamp matrix.)   As mentioned above, 18 or 20 volts unregulated
goes to the original power supply by the transformer. it's rectified
by a bridge, and goes through a fuse. this is all mounted on the
original P.S. board (the big one, the little P.S. board in the original
P.S. is shitcanned.)  

There is another possibility and that's a bad driver i/o slot board.
but if you moved the original P.S. to another game and it
didn't work there, than the P.S. is the problem.

The 18 volts D.C. is fused. You should check that fuse. Again
in the lower P.S. and it's soldered to the board (not very friendly.)

well that's 50% true as the second rev of the power supply came out in 2000 which they finally socketed the fuse.   However they wanted to ensure you would know this so they changed the transformer 12 PIN molex connector to 16 PIN so you would know they were looking out for you.  The 16 PIN power supply was also used on the Video Slots and the later model 400 series machines made after 2000, so maybe they wanted to get down to 1 model of power supplies over 2.    You cannot just swap the two without changing the 12PIN to a 16PIN and reverse.  

The 16PIN has higher tolerances over the 12, so it can be used backwards, however the 12 should not be used on the newer machines etc. .  


All machines use the same voltage but the nwer ones used higher amps which was why the came out with a second power supply.

IGT did the same but did not change the connector
« Last Edit: August 30, 2009, 12:32:39 PM by Slotmaster » Logged
Randy0777
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« Reply #12 on: September 26, 2009, 04:56:38 AM »

Sorry for the delay... I replaced everything I could think of,and still no lights  frying pan kenokarz sent me a PM and suggested I swap the IO board  Scratch Head Um,ok...but all the proper lights were lit on the board,but I'll try it  Scratch Head Well,it works great now  yes ...Thanks for the suggestion kenokarz .
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