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Author Topic: "Stayouttadabunker's" Marks New Machines - And Answer to the Subaru Question  (Read 44641 times)
stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #25 on: August 27, 2009, 01:28:15 AM »

I follow ya....Do you mean I should take apart the 2 green wires behind the cash box?
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« Reply #26 on: August 27, 2009, 01:35:34 AM »

I don't agree with the comparitor statement....I just double checked my memory and looked at five running S2000's and with the door open the green comparitor light is on...not off.

Mark...my worry at this point is that we completely removed the cash can assembly and you remember there is a multitude of connection in the back there...double check all those for proper placement and connection.

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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #27 on: August 27, 2009, 01:36:19 AM »

I separated the blue w/white stripe and green wire behind the cash box.
Sorry, I thought they were BOTH green but I was wrong.
The error message changes slightly to:
"CALL ATTENDANT" and alternatively flashes to "DOOR OPEN B"

Coin comp green lite is still on though... bawling
« Last Edit: August 27, 2009, 11:26:50 AM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
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« Reply #28 on: August 27, 2009, 01:36:48 AM »

No Mark...the 2 green wires at the front of the cash can box need to be connected in a loop...your problem may be all the connections behind the box.
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« Reply #29 on: August 27, 2009, 01:37:48 AM »

Coin comp green light should be on and that is not your issue.
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« Reply #30 on: August 27, 2009, 01:41:19 AM »

Hello!

Opps!  My fault - you are right - I just checked my machines - green light is on all the time.  I think I am rembering it on a S+ - sorry for the confusion....

 Duh!

Dan #2
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #31 on: August 27, 2009, 01:42:41 AM »

Yes, I will....
I understand the green lite on the CC should be "on" then...hmm...

Behind the cash box, They are (the molexes) all different pin sizes....
what I mean by that is there's a 3-pin molex, a 4-pin molex,etc.
I can't mix them up...however, I will check and re-seat them together at this point - can't hurt...
I notice a hanging 2-pin molex up on the left hand side coming from the door harness...
does it go into the motherboard at the 2-pin "speaker" header
or does it go into the 2-pin molex a little below on a different harness bundle?
« Last Edit: August 27, 2009, 11:27:43 AM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #32 on: August 27, 2009, 01:47:05 AM »

The 2-pin, 4-pin, and 5-pin molexes are re-seated...
There's nothing for the 3-pin connector...Hmm..
uh...no change in error code...
I'm plugging several known good door emitters (red/black wires)
and known good receivers optics into the cab side (red/white)
still no change...can't get the machine to see the door is closed...
even when physically pointing the optics at each other...whaaa!

« Last Edit: August 27, 2009, 11:28:34 AM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
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« Reply #33 on: August 27, 2009, 01:48:55 AM »

Mark...have you attempted my item #1 procedure in my list of 3 above?
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #34 on: August 27, 2009, 02:53:23 AM »

I'd like to report that ArchJDS and I walked all over the machine by phone but
we sort of came to a conclusion that there may be a loose molex connection somewhere along the optic lines.
And or bad optics.
I will go thru the machines' wiring,  checking for continuity tomorrow evening with a multi-meter.
I will also bench test all of my optics (emitters and receivers) to see if they are okay.
Basically I'll be snipping apart harnesses plastic ties and following/ tracing wires from point A to Z.

Learned a few things tonite though....
the coin mech's green lite should be "ON" when the door is open...
that's a huge difference between S+'s and S2000's.
The coin comp lite is always off on a S+ when the door is open.

A few questions maybe you S2000 vets would know about...>>>

I'm wondering if there should be any lites "ON" on the MPU cage above the test switch?

Also, what is, or what would be... "normal" for the little green flashing lites in that white box's hole on the door panel? Scratch Head 2

And finally, are S2000 door optics the same as S+ optics?


Still learning about this baby...lol
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« Reply #35 on: August 27, 2009, 03:11:37 AM »

Somebody correct me if I am off on any of these...

Quote
I'm wondering if there should be any lites "ON" on the MPU cage above the test switch?

If the machine is operating normally they should be off.

Quote
Also, what is, or what would be... "normal" for the little green flashing lites in that white box's hole on the door panel?

If the green light is "on" on the vacuum display board then that tells you it is operating normally.  Yellow or off and you have problems.

Quote
And finally, are S2000 door optics the same as S+ optics?

I say yes...but throw a set in there and you tell us.
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« Reply #36 on: August 27, 2009, 05:21:29 AM »

And finally, are S2000 door optics the same as S+ optics?

Hello!

I have used S+ optics in a S2000 multiple times before without issue...

Dan #2
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« Reply #37 on: August 27, 2009, 12:07:38 PM »

Just to note you can also bypass the optics for testing but from reading this thread it does not sound like you have a bill door issue and not the main door or optics.  

So it looks like only door open is B (bill door)

Just to note it's solid green and blue wires.  Dont confuse these with the BV wires

Notes:

For optic bypass just connect the wires direct to each other with no optics using a trashed second set (pictured) add needed length.   This would not work well for normal use as the machine needs to see the door open and close but works for testing when you can't get the main door to close.










* nlg1.jpg (67.58 KB, 1008x567 - viewed 398 times.)

* NLG2.jpg (61.13 KB, 1008x567 - viewed 394 times.)
« Last Edit: August 27, 2009, 12:17:20 PM by Slotmaster » Logged
stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #38 on: August 27, 2009, 12:46:23 PM »

In the name of slot science  waving flag...
I bench powered-up a known good optic door emitter...
While viewing the emitter with a video camera, it lights up at 2vdc and will get brighter at 3.3vdc.
Then it burned out at any power over 3.5vdc... bawling

I am wary of connecting the black door emitter wire to the red cabinet receiver wire...
I've done it on an S+ but never on a S2000.
But in the name of slot science...I reluctantly will.... arrow

More optical results later this afternoon....(Fingers crossed)

ADD>> Slotmaster, I have the same blue and green wire behind the cashbox...
but they're tied together...
The only difference is the blue wire has a white stripe?
« Last Edit: August 27, 2009, 12:55:43 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
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« Reply #39 on: August 27, 2009, 01:03:26 PM »

In the name of slot science  waving flag...
I bench powered-up a known good optic door emitter...
While viewing the emitter with a video camera, it lights up at 2vdc and will get brighter at 3.3vdc.
Then it burned out at any power over 3.5vdc... bawling

I am wary of connecting the black door emitter wire to the red cabinet receiver wire...
I've done it on an S+ but never on a S2000.
But in the name of slot science...I reluctantly will.... arrow

More optical results later this afternoon....(Fingers crossed)

ADD>> Slotmaster, I have the same blue and green wire behind the cashbox...
but they're tied together...
The only difference is the blue wire has a white stripe?
I looked again and traced it back, you are right the blue wire has a stipe on mine too, its gray on mine.

Trace both wires back to the backplane and ensure they are connected (tone out both wires to the connector).    Make sure you dont have a pinched wire etc.

Also in rare instances I have seen the main MPU board be the issue just to note.  I would say this is not the issue since you took apart the cabinet. 

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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #40 on: August 27, 2009, 01:21:24 PM »

White or gray...lighting's bad...anyways, I think we're talking about the same correct wires.
I have pictured below an optics test harness I just made that I will try in a couple of hours.
Black from door emitter is connected to red cabinet receiver>>


* optic test harness 003.jpg (31.15 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 387 times.)
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #41 on: August 27, 2009, 01:30:07 PM »

hah! DISCOVERY!!!!
I tried the harness on my S+...doesn't work..
But when I switched the black door emitter to the white cabinet receiver, it worked!
Red door emitter should probably go to red cabinet receiver then?
Maybe that's how I need to connect it later to the S2000?
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« Reply #42 on: August 27, 2009, 01:44:33 PM »

I've done it on an S+ but never on a S2000.
But in the name of slot science...I reluctantly will.... arrow

Hello all!

One of my current S2000 machines originally came with the main door bypassed.  This was done with a simple wire.  I have since removed it and put optics back in - I like machines to be as original as they can.

So it can be done on a S2000 - if someone would like, I can look at the machine and post what wires were connected together to do this....

Dan #2
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #43 on: August 27, 2009, 01:47:55 PM »

Yes Dan, That would be great... yes
we're just making this harness for testing purposes really...
To try get the machine to see that the bloody door is closed...lol
This is an updated picture of the re-configured harness that works on a S+ at the moment..! .>>>

Red goes to red

yeah..I know...I don't any shrink tubes at the moment... rotflmao

Just soldering the wires and wrapping them with plain ole' black electrical vinyl tape... Duh!


* re-configured optic test harness 002.jpg (36.06 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 388 times.)
« Last Edit: August 27, 2009, 01:54:10 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
Slotmaster
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« Reply #44 on: August 27, 2009, 02:49:39 PM »

I've done it on an S+ but never on a S2000.
But in the name of slot science...I reluctantly will.... arrow

Hello all!

One of my current S2000 machines originally came with the main door bypassed.  This was done with a simple wire.  I have since removed it and put optics back in - I like machines to be as original as they can.

So it can be done on a S2000 - if someone would like, I can look at the machine and post what wires were connected together to do this....

Dan #2
you should not bypass the optics long term, the machine needs to see the door open to get into the config menus etc.   Plug when changing games you need to have the door open and close etc.

The optic picture I was showing was one that I used on an s2000 wired the way I had it and it worked.    s


I did not think it mattered which way it was on an s2000 but might have

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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #45 on: August 27, 2009, 02:53:15 PM »

I agree with you SM...
I do intend to re-install the door optics the way they should be...
I'm just trying this harness so I can get the machine
to see  Weird Eyes that the door is closed to see if the error code will clear.
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« Reply #46 on: August 27, 2009, 06:50:28 PM »

I agree with you SM...
I do intend to re-install the door optics the way they should be...
I'm just trying this harness so I can get the machine
to see  Weird Eyes that the door is closed to see if the error code will clear.
The part that confuses me is why are we talking about the main optic when the error is "B" for bill door.

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« Reply #47 on: August 27, 2009, 07:47:19 PM »

If the cash box door switch is cut at or near the switch .. try cutting the wires where they are tied to the cabinet wall and pulling them back behind the DBV frame and then splicing them back together.

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« Reply #48 on: August 27, 2009, 07:51:02 PM »

If the cash box door switch is cut at or near the switch .. try cutting the wires where they are tied to the cabinet wall and pulling them back behind the DBV frame and then splicing them back together.


as well as tone out to the connector. 

a pinched wire or broken one can be the issue, remember the cabinet was disassebled.



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« Reply #49 on: August 28, 2009, 12:11:48 AM »

I just skimmed this thread, congrats on getting your new machines, if you had a Mopar, you could have left them together..

one question to start, When you are in the menu, does it exit when you close the door? 

W
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