Mikohn computer board, need a new one or make the one I have work?

[modman]

                   I posted two pics, the first one shows the board with part # 341-002-10B which is working on one of my progressive S5500 machines. On my other machine I have the board with part # 341-001-80, now it used to work when it was connected to two other computer boxes that did a custom lettering display where you can put your own wording on it and alternate between the jackpot # and your custom wording. Here is the problem, when the wording stopped working I sent one of the two computer boards in for repair and after 3 years I never got it back and the person had only excuses every time I called in to check on the progress. Needless to say I gave up. Anyone here know a Bill Mayer in Arizona? well that's the person who has my missing parts. Anyway at this point I don't care about the custom wording and want the progressive part to work. Can the part# 341-001-80 still work without the custom computer boxes? I did notice two things, one, there are jumper wires underneath the board going across the chips and second, there are wires configured differently compared to my other machine. The differences is are two wires are connected to the relay control connector and the other two are connected to the 6 prong on the lower right whereas the one working with the 341-002-10b has all the wires going to the relay control connection area. I hope anyone can understand what I wrote. Would it just be simple to buy another  341-002-10B board and rewire like my other working machine? would it need to be reprogrammed? if so I've never done reprogramming nor do I know how. I don't have and software either if it needs it. Any help is very appreciated. Thanks

[modman]

                           Another related question, with either one of these led progressive displays work with either one of the Mikohn boards? The first pic showing the back of the led board goes to part # 341-001-80. Just wanted to know if it will work with part # 341-002-10B. I noticed the plugs are identical, but noticed the back of the led boards uses different chips and the layout on the back is different but the front display is identical.

[brichter]

I can't tell from the pics, since the labels are obscured, but that looks like a link extension device and it would use a display that has 12 of the individual rectangular LED assemblies on it. Once again, due to the quality of the pictures, I can't tell for sure but it looks like your displays are made up of 14 of the LED assemblies. Am I correct on the number? Can you post a better pic of the label on the left side of the board?

[modman]

                                       Hope this is better, if not I'll have to take more closer pics when I get the chance to get to the boards again.

[modman]

I can't tell from the pics, since the labels are obscured, but that looks like a link extension device and it would use a display that has 12 of the individual rectangular LED assemblies on it. Once again, due to the quality of the pictures, I can't tell for sure but it looks like your displays are made up of 14 of the LED assemblies. Am I correct on the number? Can you post a better pic of the label on the left side of the board?

              Forgot to add, the one with the zip ties has 12 sections using the computer board part # 341-002-10B and the other led board uses 14 sections for part # 341-001-80. Does this mean you cannot interchange led boards? I really want my 341-001-80 to work with the 14 led board but due to a missing computer board it is not working. This missing computer board was used to put custom messages but now I'm without it. Can I still get my progressive to work without it by reconfiguring the wires?

[Foster]

Are the Cells 8 x 5?

[modman]

Are the Cells 8 x 5?

                       I'm not clear on the cell size? you mean each led block size? centimeters? I'm new on this so there is a lot I do not know.

[Foster]

Each LED block in number of LED's per row and column.
I should have posted 5 x 8 but swapped them for some reason.
I know my 12 Cell display is 12 cells that are 5 columns by 8 rows which is display size of 60.
It will matter when you do the configuration of the board directly with the switches on the controller.

[modman]

Each LED block in number of LED's per row and column.
I should have posted 5 x 8 but swapped them for some reason.
I know my 12 Cell display is 12 cells that are 5 columns by 8 rows which is display size of 60.
It will matter when you do the configuration of the board directly with the switches on the controller.


              OK I see, yes they are 8 x 5. The one needing work on is the 14 section screen for my 341-001-80 computer board

[modman]

                                I took pictures of the board I need configured to my S5500. This board also was connected directly to my led board containing the 8 x 5 led units with 14 cells. Just not sure which wires should connect to the board and which wires go to the machine. This was the machine that had the custom computer box removed. I don't care for it so I'm trying to see if we can do without it. Also notice the yellow jumper wires. Is this done at factory or was this a modification done to make  custom scrolling words appear?

[stayouttadabunker]

It is strange for those yellow wires to be soldered there on the solder-side of the board.
Those could have just been repairs for bad traces...
do the traces on top look scored or scratched?
There's a NLG member by the name of John Acres that might know more about the yellow wiring.

[brichter]

It is strange for those yellow wires to be soldered there on the solder-side of the board.
Those could have just been repairs for bad traces...
do the traces on top look scored or scratched?
There's a NLG member by the name of John Acres that might know more about the yellow wiring.

Then again, those could be hardware revisions. I've seen many like that from that era.

[stayouttadabunker]

I have never thought of looking underneath my board to see if anything is wired up like that...Hmm?

[modman]

                               There are traces purposely cut and not for reconnecting the traces. The wires are crossing over to other parts of the chip. Is this board even used at all? should I reconnect the cut trace to bring back to the original and see if this board can be reused? Or should I buy another board similar to my other board that's working. The led board is different though. They are both 8 x 5 cells but one has 12 blocks and the other has 14 blocks, could this make a difference between using different Mikohn boards? I don't know what to do at this point except trying to find a similar board like the one that is working on my other machine and rewiring the connections to the machine. I only don't know if did that if it will work on my led board now that is has 14 blocks instead of 12.

[modman]

I have never thought of looking underneath my board to see if anything is wired up like that...Hmm?

                  What is the part # of your board, does it look like the one I have? anyone use the board like the one I have posted with the dipswitches? Please take a look under the board of yours to see if it looks like it has been jumpered like the one I have. The only difference in the one I have is that it had another computer box which is now gone forever, used to be for programming custom scrolling words on the led board. It was cool when it worked but later it failed weeks later after turning back on the machine. Anyone know a Bill Mayer? He used to sell a few machines out of Arizona. He sold me the machine and has never returned my parts I sent in for repair. This has been over 3 years ago. I'm stumped

[Foster]

the Display with 12 cells is 60 size and the one with 14 is 70 size.
You just have to set the display size when you do the configuration on the board.

[modman]

              Unfortunately I don't know how to do that and also I don't know what is up with the board with the jumper wires. Do you know which wires go to that board and where they are wired up on the machine. I believe there are 3 or 4 wires that go to the machine, but if my memory serves me right, only 3 wires get used.

[jay]

The circuit board is a LED5 also known as a Cham1.
LED = Link Extension device.

There are 2 sets of white wire connectors. The 2 pin one at the end next to the LED (lamp) connects to a CON1 controller and this is the data input.
The other 3pin is for power from the power supply it usually sits on.
The 9pin connector is just there for show. It has no function.

There is also a ribbon cable connector that feeds the meter (LED display).
The LED display gets both power and whatever signal it needs via this ribbon cable.

With respect to the meter (LED display) that is fused to your glass. If it has the same ribbon cable connector then it is likely for the Cham1 (LED5).
If the ribbon connector looks like it is a different size and there is a 2 wire power connector about dead center of the display then this meter (LED display) is for a ChamII or ChamII+
Sorry I could not make out connectors and such on the pictures of the display or I would have been more definative.

Hope this helps.

[brichter]

The circuit board is a LED5 also known as a Cham1.
LED = Link Extension device.

Is there an echo in here?

 

Jay knows all the oldy moldy goldy stuff!

I wish I could find the manuals for this stuff, it's probably the only equipment I'm lacking documentation on.

[modman]

The circuit board is a LED5 also known as a Cham1.
LED = Link Extension device.

There are 2 sets of white wire connectors. The 2 pin one at the end next to the LED (lamp) connects to a CON1 controller and this is the data input.
The other 3pin is for power from the power supply it usually sits on.
The 9pin connector is just there for show. It has no function.

There is also a ribbon cable connector that feeds the meter (LED display).
The LED display gets both power and whatever signal it needs via this ribbon cable.

With respect to the meter (LED display) that is fused to your glass. If it has the same ribbon cable connector then it is likely for the Cham1 (LED5).
If the ribbon connector looks like it is a different size and there is a 2 wire power connector about dead center of the display then this meter (LED display) is for a ChamII or ChamII+
Sorry I could not make out connectors and such on the pictures of the display or I would have been more definative.

Hope this helps.

                   OK, on the board, the 4 pin connector is used for power and the 3 pin connector is not used so that is where I think you may be wrong on as my other board that is working is configured the same way for power and the 3 pin is not used at all. On this board it has been modified I believe so I'm not sure it will work right as it was designed to work with a missing computer box, but I'm not sure if this board could still work the way it is or do I have to remove the yellow wires and put this the way it originally was but I haven't received and answer on that. Also for the 2 pin connector, where do these go?  for example on the two pin and lets say pin #1 is on the left side on top of the led and pin #2 is on the right side of the led, where do these go on the machine. I believe they go to the board in the back of the machine where it says relay controller. What pin # from left to right does the wires go to from the Mikohn board? Now this is assuming the Mikohn board is fine the way the yellow wires are. I'll take a closer look of the ribbon cable  and connection to see if they are different on both machines.

[modman]

                                  OK taking another look from what you mentioned both my displays uses the 20 pin ribbon cable so they are both Cham 1. But were working on this one particular board with the yellow wires under the board. While I was checking my other machine I also noticed under the Mikohn board, that too has jumper wires as well but it did not come with an additional modified computer board to do custom wording like the one I need fixed. The board pictured does mate with the led board in the first place as they worked until I shipped out the box for repairs but that is long gone. All I need now is to see how I can get this existing board wired up to the machine. I just don't know what wire goes where to get it working as far as data wires go. It does power up the led board and keeps saying C1, Empty, and seldomly C3 and only because the wiring is not setup correctly due to the missing computer box. So far the only thing I've learned is the Mikohn board is called Cham 1 as well as the led board and the 9 pin does nothing.

            Now all I need to know is if the yellow jumper wires should be left alone and that is the way the factory set it up? second, what data wires should be connected to the Mikohn/ cham 1 board and where do they connect to on the machine. I noticed the wires could go to either to the relay connection area or the Bal Line. I hope this time we can get this working. I don't know what else to mention as I believe all the details are now mentioned from the led cells, how many blocks, what type of ribbon cable, type of Mikohn board. Just missing the answers I was looking for which are the first two mentioned and after that which I hope it doesn't need is the programming to get it to work properly. I hope I can come close to getting this to work. I do appreciate all your help, I just want to get this out of the way after over 3 years of putting it aside.

[knagl]

It seems that it hasn't been mentioned that your displays won't work as progressive meters without a CON1 or a CON2 controller (I'm not sure which, as I'm not a Mikohn expert).  That's your "computer box" that is missing and/or was stolen by the person you sent it to for repair.  The boards/displays you have will not do progressive functions on their own -- they need a controller unit to drive them.

As far as your boards go, if they were working at one point with those yellow wires there, leave them be.

[modman]

It seems that it hasn't been mentioned that your displays won't work as progressive meters without a CON1 or a CON2 controller (I'm not sure which, as I'm not a Mikohn expert).  That's your "computer box" that is missing and/or was stolen by the person you sent it to for repair.  The boards/displays you have will not do progressive functions on their own -- they need a controller unit to drive them.

As far as your boards go, if they were working at one point with those yellow wires there, leave them be.

                          On my other machine the setup is the same and the progressive works.  I think there may be some confusion. My other machine working has the Mikohn board that goes straight to the machines board and that's it! it works perfect. On my other machine I just happen to have a different part # board that is going straight to the led board as it always has, just before there was another box that was also attached to the existing Mikohn board that is missing. I doubt that box was anything necessary to get the progressive working as my other progressive machine is working without this missing computer box. I may have had something most have never seen as I have never seen this in casinos either doing custom scrolling sentences. This was a custom job done by the seller. I just want this to work normally with this existing Mikohn board. I can't seem to get a clear answer to this. What is this Con1 Con2 controller? My other progressive machine is working fine with the Mikohn board wired straight to the Relay plug on the back of the machine. The only difference between the two machines is the Mikohn boards and just needs rewiring. If I had another board like the one working it should be easy for me to figure out but since the two Mikohn boards are different, the wiring configuration will surely be different as the working machine has like 8 pin plug wired to the relay plug in area of the back of the machine whereas the one I have needing configuration has only a 2 pin connector. If only someone here would have the same board as I have shown can just tell me where the wires go to the main board on the machine, I think it will be much easier. No one has been able to tell me if the jumper wires are normal, seems most people don't check underneath the boards they have.

[modman]

                     I think if someone can post pictures of where to connect the wires to and from my existing Mikohn board, it would be so much easier. Isn't the so called Con 1 or Con 2 controller the Mikohn board that sits on top of the power supply? On my other progressive machine, it's simply that, and the Mikohn board has only 3 wires that go to the relay connector on the back of the main machine and the progressive works like it should.

[knagl]

To the best of my knowledge... if you have one that's working with just the silver metal box (power supply) and the Mikohn board mounted on top of it, that's a ChamII+ -- look on the labels for that board for "ChamII+" and/or "SA" and/or "Stand Alone" and/or "Stand".  That one is designed to do what it's currently doing -- operate in an independent "stand alone" mode where it doesn't need anything else to operate as a progressive.  The one you pictured with the "link" indication on the label cannot do stand-alone operation -- it needs a controller.

A CON1 or a CON2, again to the best of my knowledge, is in a metal enclosure and has connectors for multiple boards/displays.  They do not look like the equipment you've pictured in this thread.