Con 1 installation

[brichter]

Geez, I guess I didn't use enough smileys in that post?  

Either that or my sarcasm needs a tune up.

If you search the term "Happ", you'll be clued in to the inside joke...

Oh, and as for the chip with the quarter, I think that's an opto-isolator. Pretty common part in slots.

[modman]

                       I knew what you were saying, I was playing along...  Anyway about the chip, if that is an opto-isolator, how did the slot send the pulse signal to the Con1 without any relays in any of the relay slots? On my other machine (standalone) it needs the relay to send the pulse to make the progressive work. I tried to find relays but no luck yet. The relay reads 2Amp 28VDC R 3.5A 120 VACR 244N  D024/02CS.

[brichter]

I couldn't tell you, I know squat about Ballys. I'm an IGT guy (at least until I get a Bally).

[modman]

                               I wanted to know if anyone knows what the battery voltage should be on the Cham boards. One of mine has low voltage and everything has to be reprogrammed when I turn it on. I had an extra board and swapped batteries but not sure if the voltage is healthy either. Is it a typical 3.6 V battery? the one I swapped out for was 2V. The dead one only showed .5V   

[stayouttadabunker]

It should say right on the battery...
Can you snap a pic of your board?
Is it a Cham2 or a Cham2+ (plus) ?

[modman]

                               Because it has the tack weld tabs on the battery, I cannot make out any stamping. I had posted pics of the boards that sit on top of the power supply. Both standalone and the cham version.  I get lost when it comes to Cham 2 or 2+. It is a 3/8" diameter size 1/8" thick battery. It sits on the middle of the board.

[stayouttadabunker]

There should be some white label or etching on the logic board that will tell you what kind of display controller we are talking about.
I don't want to make an un-educated guess and make you go buy the wrong battery.
The photo you supplied in the first few posts were very good pictures - of the CON1.
Somewhere on THAT board is a label that will tell you which CON1 that is. There are different kinds...
Not all boards are the same and they do not all use the same kind of batteries.
I need you to really look good and get those numbers off and posted up here so we can help you more.

 Remember, the more information you give us = the more information you'll get!
You're doing pretty good so far! We    WILL     get this puppy up and going the way YOU want it!

[brichter]

                              Because it has the tack weld tabs on the battery, I cannot make out any stamping. I had posted pics of the boards that sit on top of the power supply. Both standalone and the cham version.  I get lost when it comes to Cham 2 or 2+. It is a 3/8" diameter size 1/8" thick battery. It sits on the middle of the board.

Here's what you're looking for (off my CHAMII+) Panasonic VL2200 (click to make it BIGGER)

[modman]

                            The battery does not look like the thin Panasonic and the weld tabs cover the entire face so nothing is visible.

[stayouttadabunker]

It looks like to me that the only way you'll be able to change that battery is
to unsolder it from the board.
I'm very surprised that you have not been able to find anything written on the black part of it.
Is there anything such as 3.6Vdc written on it anywhere?
Also, Your board looks much newer than mine, but the chips are labeled as 1994.
That might explain why the battery is dead now...LOL
However, it's a very clean looking board!
Does it have any thing written on the board exactly what type it is?
Usually you'll see the model of it somewhere near the Mikohn name.
The labels on the chips are referring that it has a "standalone" chip.
The other one in the "U4" socket location is telling me that it's "mono" and
is made to drive a 12 cell "Mini" display panel.

I do not know what the "E" is for though...hmm...

I'm sure someone might have some specific documentation for that board so they
may be able to tell you exactly what size/voltage battery goes in there.

[brichter]

                               Because it has the tack weld tabs on the battery, I cannot make out any stamping. I had posted pics of the boards that sit on top of the power supply. Both standalone and the cham version.  I get lost when it comes to Cham 2 or 2+. It is a 3/8" diameter size 1/8" thick battery. It sits on the middle of the board.

                           The battery does not look like the thin Panasonic and the weld tabs cover the entire face so nothing is visible.

That's because I understood you to be discussing a CHAMII from the post that you requested the battery info in (see above quote).
You posted a picture of a CON1 in your first post in this thread, now you are posting a picture of a different board. At this point, I'm lost as to what you are trying to do here...

Go to the Submit a new file area, and download CON1.zip. Look in appendix B, and identify your CON1 model based on the boards pictured there.

[modman]

                              Sorry Brichter for the confusion, both boards I have use the same type of battery. One board is the standalone like the one pictured, and the other one is not a standalone which sits on top of the power supply as well but requires the use of a Con 1  board. The battery shown has already been removed on the board, I just had put it sideways to show where it was located. I took a real close look at the sides where the plastic wraps around the battery, it is so very faint you almost need a microscope to see any markings at all. I do see the words Japan, and some numbers but can't read them well even with a magnifying glass. The part number of the board was on the back and it's 341-002-10B in machine logic board. What I do know is I swapped a battery from this pictured board to my other board and it still held memory on the 2v. one I replaced with. The battery pictured was the dead one from my other board but same type of battery. If I can't find what type of battery part it is, I'll just find one with close to similar specs going off of the 2v. with low current similar to a button type battery.

[stayouttadabunker]

Remember,
your U4 chip has an (E) on the label.
So, I'm NOT entirely certain that a
"CON1" (whatever model you have) can communicate with the CHAM2.

First of all, I'm not sure what the "E" stands for .
Also, there are several different models of CON1's as you saw in the CON1.zip in Appendix B.
There are a few different models of CHAM's as well.

What we really need is a more complete list of all the different kinds of Mikohn
progressive equipment and what can communicate with what...
Something we can cross-reference different progressive stuff with?...

[Ron (r273)]

Not to hijack the thread but my CON1 doesn't remember the program when I turn the machine off.

Do I replace the green 5.5V battery?

[stayouttadabunker]

How old would you say that battery is?
BTW That's a Mikohn 2 inch CHAM slave board...
I have one exactly like that and
mine has a bad case of CRS too!
Looks like we gotta go group buy on 5.5V batteries!

[Ron (r273)]

How old would you say that battery is?
BTW That's a Mikohn 2 inch CHAM slave board...
I have one exactly like that and
mine has a bad case of CRS too!
Looks like we gotta go group buy on 5.5V batteries!

You can click on it for a bigger picture. It's chip is dated 1993.

Ron (r273)

[stayouttadabunker]

That battery is going on to 17 years old...
seriously, I'd really think it's time for a new one...
Let's shop around for some fantastic battery deals like the 3.6's we got last year!

[modman]

                         If you turn the machine off and have the CRS problem, definitely the battery. I go to Batteries plus for that. I have replaced batteries on my arcade machines and slot machine main board. Just recently replaced the one pictured from another board which I had to de solder and re solder, just not sure exactly what voltage is the factory requirement. All I know it is doing fine after the machine is turned off and the battery is at 2V. on my particular board. I also have seen the green battery like yours but If memory serves me right, I saw it in the Con1 board but I could be wrong. The memory lies on the one sitting on top of the power supply like the one I have (not pictured). I'll double check on mine and get back on this. The main battery for the memory for messaging and jackpot is the one that sits on top of the power supply. I know because I just went through replacing the battery on it and now the memory is back to normal.

[modman]

             r273, your board is similar to my board with some minor differences on the numbers on the chips and the battery type and voltage is different as well. Take a look at my board. If you replace that battery, the memory will be restored and no more reinstalling the program again.  This small battery like the pic shown is similar to my standalone board I showed earlier. I am learning that there are at least two different variations of this board and uses different voltages.

[stayouttadabunker]

Here's another thing...
I checked my battery with the power off.
I get 1.3Vdc.
Then when I turn the power on -
I get 4.4Vdc.

Oh, I almost forgot... It's a little black battery too that says "Japan 592" &
also says "5.5V" on the black part of it.
I'm suspecting that I need to go find another one of that voltage,
however, I'd prefer a larger "size" so it'll last until I die...LOL
Here's a couple of old Mikohn 2inch CHAM Slave boards>>>

[modman]

Here's another thing...
I checked my battery with the power off.
I get 1.3Vdc.
Then when I turn the power on -
I get 4.4Vdc.



Oh, I almost forgot... It's a little black battery too that says "Japan 592" &
also says "5.5V" on the black part of it.
I'm suspecting that I need to go find another one of that voltage,
however, I'd prefer a larger "size" so it'll last until I die...LOL

                   
                  Wow, that is interesting how the voltage jumps when you power it up. I'm surprised the memory still held on yours with only 1.3 v. I wonder how low the battery can go till the memory gets lost is it started out with a 5.5v battery? This means you could use a 3.6 battery similar to a phone battery with wires on it and solder to the board, they are cheap ($10) with long term capacity. I guess the battery type must be flexible. If your's is 1.3v mine is 2v. still working and the original voltage is 5.5v, that means you can go safely with a 3.6v which is the most common battery type used on memory.  I'm with you on the larger battery. I've done that to all my other machines using the larger batteries and they all work perfect. The current draw needs to be the same or close  just to be safe but you can run a larger capacity one for endurance!

[stayouttadabunker]

Yes,
But look at the first pic I've place in the post...
the green beast is a 5.5Vdc battery, made by NEC...
It's presently only reading 1.89Vdc with the power off...LOL
It holds absolutely nothing in memory...
I need a few new batteries too...!

[modman]

                 Hmmm, I wonder when they changed the battery size? I also wonder if the little black battery I'm using was originally a 5.5v? it's holding memory at 2v. weird.....

[stayouttadabunker]

It takes less voltage to "hold" the memory intact...
how much is the mininuim requirement is anybody's guess
because specific documentation on these ancient things is pretty much non existent.
We pretty much all go by the old CON1. zip manual and guess like heck! 
When I get into it, I'll be digging around for days trying to find out what works and
 what doesn't until I finally get the things to work the way I want them to.
You just gotta be patient and commit some time in your life to discovering and
learning new (very old) things!

[modman]

                       I remember I have a jewelers magnifying lens so I used it and faintly saw some numbers like    GC5.5VO.22  and Japan 243  I'm just going to find something between 2-3 volt since that is what's working with mine. I don't need it now since I've swapped the batteries between my extra working board and the dead battery board. I'll be replacing the battery on my extra board and test it. Should work fine.