What model number is my Universal

[uniman]

Yes, the 8116-A2 will work in your machine with your eproms.

[slot monkey]

"Did you ever check all the output voltages on the power supply 12-pin connector? Pin 1 is DC 5v, Pin 4 is DC 12v. Pin 7 is a ground."

Answer - pin 4 is DC 12v, Pin1 is 0.00. After checking the voltage at pins 4 and 1, the power supply it's self, with nothing plugged in,  blows the 5A 5v and 3A 12v fuse. No other components were plugged in at the time of this test.

[uniman]

Ok, just to make sure I'm on the same page; You set your voltage tester to DC. You put your red + lead on #1 and your black - lead on #7, then red + on #4 and black - on #7 and it blew the fuses?

1  4  7  10
2  5  8  11
3  6  9  12

Actually you said #4 first.

[slot monkey]

yes, the red and black leads were correct, and I got the 12 volt reading on the 4 pin and 0 on the 1 pin.

I shut the power supply off and both fuses were blown.

I had my tester to read DC.

So then I put new fuses in and turned the supply on and blew again, without any testing at all.

Kind of crazy.

I also checked the power cord at both ends and in between where it comes in the cabinet.

The volts checked ok for the cord.

I'm thinking a bad power supply......

Although, I'm new at this, so I don't know much........ just enough to get in trouble.....haha

Do you think I should get another power supply?

[uniman]

yes, the red and black leads were correct, and I got the 12 volt reading on the 4 pin and 0 on the 1 pin.

I shut the power supply off and both fuses were blown.

I had my tester to read DC.

So then I put new fuses in and turned the supply on and blew again, without any testing at all.

Kind of crazy.

I also checked the power cord at both ends and in between where it comes in the cabinet.

The volts checked ok for the cord.

I'm thinking a bad power supply......

Although, I'm new at this, so I don't know much........ just enough to get in trouble.....haha

I agree with your thinking! Sounds like bad power supply. And I don't think the noise filter is the cause. Noise filter is located ahead of the coil. Symptoms I see for bad noise filter is a lack of power, not blown fuses. Still wouldn't hurt to remove it as you need to open up the power supply now. Someone has been in there before to replace the filter, might find a loose connection.

I'm no electronics expert either and I have never repaired a power supply. My best guess would be the coil is bad, but that is just a guess.

BlueRidge slots might have a used power supply to sell you.
If not, I may have an extra working one.

Looking at the schematic below, I circled the two fuses that are blowing and highlighted the line back to the coil.
If any electronic experts care to chime in, please do!

[slot monkey]

Great job again, uniman

I'll plan on getting another supply.

Another question......... Reguarding the mini lamps that are used on the boards for the door lighting, what number mini bulb is to be used for universal slots?

Is it 656?

thanks........

[uniman]

Yes, 656. Jim at BlueRidge Slots has the best price I've seen for these bulbs. 

[slot monkey]

I placed an order with Jim at blueridge.

It should be coming this week.

I will keep the forum updated on my progress.

[slot monkey]

I installed the new power supply today.

Went through the check list from uniman:

"With known good fuses in the power supply;
Turn the power supply on and off. Remove fuses and check that they are still good.
If good, connect the 12-pin connector to the power supply and power on/off. Check fuses.
If good, insert the MPU and power on and then power off. Check fuses.
If good, plug in the two connectors to the power supply that are behind the reels. Power on and then off. Check fuses.
If good, connect the hopper, power on and off. Check the fuses.
If good, connect both door connectors, power on and off. Check the fuses.
If still good, then put the reels back in, plug in reel #1 only, power up and off, check fuses. Do the same to reels #2 and #3 one at a time."

After going though the above checklist, all the fuses were still GOOD!

So I fired up the slot and got some sound and lights.

It had error codes, 13, 21 and 50.

I then powered down and restarted it, this time holding the reset button on the mpu.

It then had error codes 13 and 50.

I powered down again and restarted, again holding the reset button on the mpu.

It then had error code 50, open door.

So after reading the manual, the code 50 could be removed after closing the door, inserting credit and playing one play.

So I inserted a coin and the coin dropped straight through, no credit.

So I am at my next obstacle.

I have to test my coin comparator and optic sensors.

There is a led light on the side of the comparator, is it suppose to be lit when powered on?

uniman, do you want me to start a new universal thread for the coin comparator and optics or do you want me to continue here?

You seem to have everything well organized in the universal forum, I didn't want to start messing up your order of things....

Time to get some sleep......... later!

[uniman]

Your comparitor LED should be on when the door is closed, off when the door is open.
To test it and the optics do this;
Open the door and power up. (Error 13 & 50 are ok)
Pull out the knobs on the two cherry switches circled in the pic below. They should stay pulled out. This simulates them pushed in when the door is closed. The black one should be for the inside light. The white one tells the MPU the door is closed or open. But pull them both.
Next there is an optic in the door, so you need to lock the door latch down like when you close it.
Now the insert coin light on the reel glass should be flashing (unless the bulb is burnt out) and the comparitor light should be on.
Drop a coin through and it should go through the comparitor and through the two optics below. You should see both optics flash a little red light as the coin passes.
If the comparitor does not allow the coin to go through the optics, check your sample coin and make sure it is in firm and straight. If that doesn't work, there is a sensitivity pot in the lower right hand corner of the comparitor. Turn it all the way to the negative, I believe counterclockwise, with a miniature screwdriver.

[slot monkey]

uniman, you are a miracle worker, great job!!!

It is finally accepting coins and spinning some reels.

After doing the above checklist that uniman provided in the above thread, the optic sensors worked but the coin comparitor was still dead. After checking connector 3 (3pin, black, blue and violet) for voltage, I found out the black and blue wires in the connector had been reversed. Once I switched them, the coin comparitor lit up and was working.

I got to play alittle with it about 30 plays.

The sounds are pretty good, all though, I didn't win too many plays so the sounds were kind of limited.

The coin hopper sounds like a garbage disposal, wow.

So that will be my next assignment, is to remove, clean and diagnose the hopper.

I read a thread here on the forum about the universal hoppers, so I will reread it again and start to work on it tomorrow.

Once again uniman, you saved my arse!

Time to turn in............ later

[Busch]

Hallo Uniman,

only now I found out how to activate the green test button, which I thought was inop in all my 12 Universal slots. I have to turn the meter key in clockwise direction and leave it there, only then the test button works, no comment about this in the manual.
For the meter reading program is also different from manual:
meter key in anticlockwise position, then one goes through the number of reading via MAX BET = up, and 1 BET =down.
Only now I can verify the numbers of Eprom , serial etc.
I wonder how you translate the # 4 Percentage reference number into actual % ?
I found you mention a zip file in a upload section, but I cant access that section, password and username required, my normal ones don't work.
I have those nice machines, but it seems the PO% is quite high on most, especially this one:
1 Eprom Series No   8601
2 Eprom version     0145
3  Eprom model     8765
4  Eprom %       0031.
The meter reading program does not give me the actual  PO % , cos for some reason memory does not keep all coins played stored, only until shut down, maybe the battery.?

If there is a formula of sorts to determine PO% from the % ref-no. it would be great or any other way to ssee.
Thank you alot, I llearn alot from reading all those older posts even.