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| | |-+  Bally 5500 Pro help needed - coin comparitor
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Author Topic: Bally 5500 Pro help needed - coin comparitor  (Read 19559 times)
cfh
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« on: October 11, 2008, 05:53:10 PM »

Does anyone have a picture they can email me or post of
their Bally 5500 pro and the coin comparitor?  On my
comparitor two of the three wires came out of the connector
going into the side of the comparitor. I would lilke to
reconnect them, but don't know where they go. Would really
appreciate this. (Need wire colors.)  On mine the blue wire
and one of the white wires came out. The top white wire is
still connected. Is the blue wire on the middle pin of the
coin comparitor connector?

Also is there anyway to trick a Bally 5500 pro into not using
a coin comparitor? There are three sets of 2-pin .100" connectors
on the coin optic board. I tried jumping the top left pair, and
bent the coin comparitor rake out of the way. It tries to take
a coin (get a coin-in sound, but it's the 'reject' sound) yet
get the "invalid coin type" error on the front LED.

Note to self: the CC-16d coin comparitor on a Bally 5500 Pro
is the same as an IGT S+ comparitor.  The LED light should
come ON when the coin door switch is pulled out (or pushed in).
« Last Edit: October 11, 2008, 06:01:24 PM by cfh » Logged
paul
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« Reply #1 on: October 11, 2008, 11:27:38 PM »

Clay check email in 5 min
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« Reply #2 on: October 11, 2008, 11:52:02 PM »

thanks paul! it may be enough to figure this out. wires pulled out of connector.
so i have to figure out what is what. was hoping someone had a 5500 with
a CC16d installed and could just rattle off the wire colors/pins.

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paul
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« Reply #3 on: October 11, 2008, 11:59:16 PM »

Clay on mine pin2 is purple pin4 is yellow pin 6 is black that is from top down
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« Reply #4 on: October 12, 2008, 12:59:32 AM »

Nobody had a Bally 5500 they can look at and post the
coin comparitor 3 wire connector wire color order??

Does anyone have a picture they can email me or post of
their Bally 5500 pro and the coin comparitor?  On my
comparitor two of the three wires came out of the connector
going into the side of the comparitor. I would lilke to
reconnect them, but don't know where they go. Would really
appreciate this. (Need wire colors.)  On mine the blue wire
and one of the white wires came out. The top white wire is
still connected. Is the blue wire on the middle pin of the
coin comparitor connector?

Also is there anyway to trick a Bally 5500 pro into not using
a coin comparitor? There are three sets of 2-pin .100" connectors
on the coin optic board. I tried jumping the top left pair, and
bent the coin comparitor rake out of the way. It tries to take
a coin (get a coin-in sound, but it's the 'reject' sound) yet
get the "invalid coin type" error on the front LED.

Note to self: the CC-16d coin comparitor on a Bally 5500 Pro
is the same as an IGT S+ comparitor.  The LED light should
come ON when the coin door switch is pulled out (or pushed in).


I have some at home but I'm away for the weekend (Thanksgiving in Canada)

 turkey

W
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dansgames
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« Reply #5 on: October 12, 2008, 03:08:56 AM »

Does anyone have a picture they can email me or post of
their Bally 5500 pro and the coin comparitor?  On my
comparitor two of the three wires came out of the connector
going into the side of the comparitor. I would lilke to
reconnect them, but don't know where they go. Would really
appreciate this. (Need wire colors.)  On mine the blue wire
and one of the white wires came out. The top white wire is
still connected. Is the blue wire on the middle pin of the
coin comparitor connector?

Also is there anyway to trick a Bally 5500 pro into not using
a coin comparitor? There are three sets of 2-pin .100" connectors
on the coin optic board. I tried jumping the top left pair, and
bent the coin comparitor rake out of the way. It tries to take
a coin (get a coin-in sound, but it's the 'reject' sound) yet
get the "invalid coin type" error on the front LED.

Note to self: the CC-16d coin comparitor on a Bally 5500 Pro
is the same as an IGT S+ comparitor.  The LED light should
come ON when the coin door switch is pulled out (or pushed in).


Here you go, try jumping the top right set of pins on optic board to bypass , this will only work if you have a set of 3 pairs on the optic board. Some boards have only 2 .

Dansgames yes


* bally coin comp.JPG (54.24 KB, 498x496 - viewed 670 times.)
« Last Edit: October 12, 2008, 03:16:15 AM by dansgames » Logged
cfh
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« Reply #6 on: October 12, 2008, 10:03:12 AM »

great thanks! 
i'm wondering why my wire colors are different though?
but I think i have a handle on this now.

I'm pretty sure the IGT and Bally CC-16d pinout is shown below
in figure 13, page 13, Interface "A":
http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/coincomparitors_pinouts.pdf

from the top down:
Pin 1 = inhibit or tilt (NC)
Pin 2 = sense (connected)
Pin 3 = credit (NC)
Pin 4= 12 or 24 volts (connected)
Pin 5= 12 or 24 volts (NC)
Pin 6 = Gnd (connected)
« Last Edit: October 12, 2008, 10:50:47 AM by cfh » Logged
blueridgeslots
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« Reply #7 on: October 12, 2008, 10:09:40 AM »

great thanks! 
i'm wondering why my wire colors are different though?
but I think i have a handle on this now.

I'm pretty sure the IGT and Bally CC-16d pinout is shown below
in figure 13, page 13, Interface "A":



http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/coincomparitors_pinouts.pdf

from the top down:
Pin 1 = inhibit or tilt
Pin 2 = sense
Pin 3 = credit
Pin 4= 12 or 24 volts
Pin 5= 12 or 24 volts
Pin 6 = Gnd



There was 2 different door harness designs, one had the comparitor harness made into the door harness all in one, and later had a 4 pin square connector with a 8" pigtail to the comparitor, much easier to replace the pigtail than splice
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« Reply #8 on: October 12, 2008, 10:11:45 AM »

ok thanks!
well that explains it then. because this one has the pigtail
that goes directly into the harness (no 4 pin square connector).
Here's a picture of the CC-16d with the 4 pin square connector.
I'll get a picture of the other style today when i'm at their house.

So in the picture below, can the coin comparitor be defeated?




« Last Edit: October 12, 2008, 10:45:24 AM by cfh » Logged
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« Reply #9 on: October 12, 2008, 01:51:31 PM »

Ok here's the game in question. Notice the different wiring style
and wire colors. NOTE i may not have the bottom two wires
connected correctly!  that's the big question.

The other big question is this: why no 12 volts at the coin
comparitor? with the coin door switch in or out, it makes
no difference. I should get 12 volts on the bottom two wires.
but i'm not. I think that is the main problem.

Also is there a way to defeat the coin comparitor on this
style of optic board?

thanks!






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paul
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« Reply #10 on: October 12, 2008, 03:49:32 PM »

Clay try switching the top and middle one, blue would go pin4 and the white with brown pin 2     
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« Reply #11 on: October 12, 2008, 04:17:26 PM »

Clay try switching the top and middle one, blue would go pin4 and the white with brown pin 2     


Paul are you sure? because the top wire white/brown (pin 2) is the *only* wire
that didn't fall out of the connector. so it's the only one i could have not screwed up!

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« Reply #12 on: October 12, 2008, 04:38:43 PM »

Clay trace the white and brown and see if it goes to white molex plug on door or which wire does
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« Reply #13 on: October 12, 2008, 11:21:00 PM »

Is the toggle switch up on the MPU
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« Reply #14 on: October 12, 2008, 11:39:21 PM »

do you have a spare optic board to try?
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« Reply #15 on: October 13, 2008, 12:14:01 AM »

Toggle switch is on the lower left side just above the fuse bank,
just to the left of the hopper. I don't have any other optics to try.

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« Reply #16 on: October 13, 2008, 12:16:47 AM »

Clay do a complete ram clear I see there is a coin reverse code 24 on machine
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« Reply #17 on: October 13, 2008, 12:17:37 AM »

The Toggle on the MPU not the power switch, the Toggle on the MPU is to turn the coin mech on
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« Reply #18 on: October 13, 2008, 02:07:00 AM »

Clay do a complete ram clear I see there is a coin reverse code 24 on machine

Correct code 24, good eye. what does that mean? (coin reverse?)
I did a RAM clear before and it didn't help. but i'm open for any sugguestion.
thanks!
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« Reply #19 on: October 13, 2008, 02:09:23 AM »

The Toggle on the MPU not the power switch, the Toggle on the MPU is to turn the coin mech on


Ok fair enough. i didn't see this toggle before. here's a picture of my s5500pro.
i see the "coin mech" switch needs to be up. wow didn't even think of that!


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« Reply #20 on: October 13, 2008, 03:57:17 AM »

Clay do a complete ram clear I see there is a coin reverse code 24 on machine

Correct code 24, good eye. what does that mean? (coin reverse?)
I did a RAM clear before and it didn't help. but i'm open for any sugguestion.
thanks!

coins should pass through the comparitor then through the optics, if the machine senses that a coin goes in the reverse direction, it produces the error code.  This was in order to eliminate "stringing" where people tied string to a coin in order to cheat.

I have had a machine that would come up with the 24 error and it was the coin optic board.

W
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« Reply #21 on: October 14, 2008, 12:44:52 AM »

Ok got it working!

I feel like an idiot though. It WAS that "coin mech" switch.
That switch must be "up" or the coin mech and DBV are disabled.
(This allows the game to be turned on in a casino, but unable
to accept money. Games turned off look bad on the casino floor i guess.)
Also the wiring shown in the pictures above IS correct.
« Last Edit: October 14, 2008, 08:22:56 AM by cfh » Logged
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« Reply #22 on: October 14, 2008, 12:49:38 AM »

Great to hear you got it going.  We all learn from our mistakes, don't worry.

Thanks for letting us know..

W Odie
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