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Author Topic: The Dreaded Smell of something burning!!  (Read 16679 times)
Magicslots
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« on: January 22, 2010, 09:26:23 PM »
 Help Well I was changing out some light bulbs in my S+ and I flipped it on to check them all out....and Then  no
that acrid odor of something in my machine that was WAY too HOT  lightning bolt 
I turned the machine off, and started the old bloodhound/firemans nose routine, it took a while, pulled the MPU board and it looked ok , then
 Burning Resistor    bottom back corner of the motherboard!  Crap! its burned to toast  bawling  R-3 is burnt up!  So Do I need to replace the motherboard, or try to find
a replacement? Given that I am not the best in the world at soldering... no  Suggestions Gentlemen

* IMG_7280.JPG (778.62 KB, 2272x1704 - viewed 406 times.)
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Gusco
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« Reply #1 on: January 22, 2010, 09:45:32 PM »
If it were me i would try to replace the fried component. If there was no major damage to the board itslef.
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Magicslots
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« Reply #2 on: January 22, 2010, 10:05:11 PM »
 frying pan  My skill at reading schematics sucks.  By my reading of the manual,
 R-3 is  {Resist.comp 3.9 OHM .5W RC20* } is that correct?
What does this control on the machine?   Scratch Head

Where do I find one, I haven't bought anything like this years!  no
« Last Edit: January 22, 2010, 10:47:50 PM by Magicslots » Logged
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #3 on: January 22, 2010, 11:14:58 PM »
Radio Schnack might carry them...any small electronics store really...
Just take a sharp pair of snips and cut down as low as you can next to the board...
We'll talk about soldering later...

Maybe you might want to pick up some soldering paste, de-soldering braid,
soldering wire (smallest ones they have)
a soldering stick, tiny pointy snips, a tool box to hold all this,
a nice magnifying fluorescent adjustable architectural lamp,
some rough sandpaper, and an industrial fan (to blow the fumes away),
a fold-able roll-away workbench.
Yeah, that should do it...
by the time you gather all these components together,
you will have wasted enough money to buy about 50 motherboards...!
                                     or
You can place an ad in the "Classifieds" section of NLG asking for an S+ motherboard
which you simply Paypal a vendors email address and they'll send
it directly to your house - then its just a plain swap.
Your choice! 
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Op-Bell
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« Reply #4 on: January 22, 2010, 11:39:57 PM »
3.9 ohm, half watt, is not a common value. I don't mean you can't get them, but you'd probably have to go to a distributor and buy 100. For a quick repair, buy a packet of 10 ohm (brown-black-black), 1/4W - these are a Radio Shack type value - take three of them side by side, twist the leads together and solder them as a single unit in place of the old one. That ends up as 3.3 ohms, 3/4 watt. If you can buy 12 ohm resistors (brown-red-black) you will end up with a closer value, 4 ohms, but 12 ohm resistors may not be so easy to find in the mall.

The value is unlikely to be critical. It's probably in series with a lamp, to limit the inrush current when the lamp turns on.
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Magicslots
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« Reply #5 on: January 23, 2010, 01:06:19 AM »
Went to Radio Shack after dinner and found these. They look to be correct?
But since the original is incinerated I cant tell based on the color coding. 
R4 looks to have gotten pretty warm, can I test with a multimeter to  see if it is still
good or should I replace it while I am at it.  Can anyone confirm these are the right resistors please   Help

?

* resist (Small).JPG (44.83 KB, 640x480 - viewed 373 times.)
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Jim
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« Reply #6 on: January 23, 2010, 01:36:16 AM »
NO do not use those,  they are 3.9K ohm or 3900 ohms    your denomination lamp probably won't lite if you put that in !   you need a 3.9ohm  .5watt  resistor

if you find a 4 ohm resistor as the schematic shows, it probably won't make that much of a difference.   

you must have the wrong bulb in that fixture!  On the S+ ,for that lamp you are dealing with 7vac, # 86 bulb. that circuit  places b grd. on one side of the resistor threw the resistor and to the one side of the lamp, threw the lamp filament, and to 7vac hot.

good luck

JIM
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Magicslots
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« Reply #7 on: January 23, 2010, 01:41:44 AM »
Thanks for the heads up Jim.. I was in hurry,  oh well I am only out a buck! Tongue Out
Yep I was trying a new led for the denom light when the problem started!  Crap frying pan
Burnt up my own board being stupid!!!  Well I'll check for a different resistor tomorrow..
Anybody got a spare motherboard they sell cheap to a stupid fireman???  Crazy
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« Reply #8 on: January 23, 2010, 01:47:14 AM »
Jim,
What would happen if Magic just jumped the burned out resistor
with a wire for now until he's able to find the correct one?
Would it cause more damage?
And Magic, don't do this until we get an answer! lol
Or you're gonna have to work overtime!  Burning Resistor
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Magicslots
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« Reply #9 on: January 23, 2010, 01:54:22 AM »
Actually, the Denom light still worked when I put the #86 back in.  But I REALLLLLY wanted to find out where the smell
was coming coming from, so I pulled the plug, and started the hunt.  muted
 It wasn't worth leaving the game running, I didnt want to start a cascade failure!  loser

Back to the other question, can anybody tell me the proper color coding on the correct resistor?? please please puullease!  bomb
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #10 on: January 23, 2010, 02:03:25 AM »
I always used this one...

http://www.dannyg.com/examples/res2/resistor.htm

You might be able the read the nearby resistor color...should be the same.
I don't have a S+ by me at the minute...can U believe that?   Tongue Out
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Jim
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« Reply #11 on: January 23, 2010, 02:09:37 AM »
Orange/ White / Gold
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uniman
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« Reply #12 on: January 23, 2010, 02:11:31 AM »

Another site;

http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Resistor_Codes
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #13 on: January 23, 2010, 02:41:09 AM »
Believe it or not...

Tthis was the "nice" way to remember the resistor color codes in high school.
I think it's highly dis-regarded memory tip in science classrooms nowadays I'm sure...>>>


Bad Boys Ravish Only Young Girls But Violet Gives Willingly
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Magicslots
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« Reply #14 on: January 23, 2010, 02:43:20 AM »
I found a place right here in town that sells them:

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=2966484

Of course it an electronics mega-warehouse, and they would probably make me ship them, even though they are only a few mile away...
A penny a pc, and $12.00 to ship... Thumbs Down
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« Reply #15 on: January 23, 2010, 02:50:05 AM »
can order them from here for .55 cents  (10 pack)

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=002-3.9




EDIT>> $3.95 shipping
« Last Edit: January 23, 2010, 03:15:55 AM by Gusco » Logged
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Op-Bell
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« Reply #16 on: January 23, 2010, 04:40:36 AM »
The resistor is only there to limit the inrush current for an incandescent bulb. When the filament is cold it can take 10 times the current it draws when it's hot. So it's common to put a small resistor in series with bulbs that turn on and off frequently - it makes the bulb last MUCH longer.

You can jump (short) this out without fear of anything except a somewhat reduced lamp lifetime. If you are changing to LEDs you don't even have to worry about that.
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Magicslots
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« Reply #17 on: January 23, 2010, 05:09:39 AM »
Thanks Op-Bell, I am still hunting a good led replacement for the #86 bulb.  Ive seen some threads on here
but I still haven't gotten the right bulb.. hissy fit {obviously}  I am really open to suggestions...
 I am gonna try Frys tomorrow, maybe they will have the right resistor.
Do you thin that R4  may have been damaged when R3 had its meltdown?
Are the Coin accepted /Insert Coin on this same feed?
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Op-Bell
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« Reply #18 on: January 23, 2010, 05:30:06 AM »
Quote
I am gonna try Frys tomorrow, maybe they will have the right resistor.
You'll probably find one at Frys, though for very low resistances like that (under 10 ohms) you may have to buy a larger size than half-watt. That value - half-watt - is how much overload it can take before it makes a "brown" smell and burns out. You can use a 2W, they're bigger but not much. I doubt if the neighboring resistor was harmed. I don't know the answer to the last question.
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Magicslots
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« Reply #19 on: January 23, 2010, 03:14:55 PM »
Still haven't made it to Frys, that place is a madhouse on Saturdays, but I did get the burnt resistor de-soldered and removed.
The board still passes the continuity test  Duh! So now I guess I just gotta find that darned little resistor.
Man do I feel stupid burning my board up this way Weird Eyes
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« Reply #20 on: January 23, 2010, 03:41:42 PM »
Don't feel stupid, feel educated, because we all learn the hard way sometimes!


Thanks,
Wayne
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« Reply #21 on: January 23, 2010, 07:45:43 PM »
A lot of us buy extra parts for days like today...
that way, all you gotta do is swap parts and presto!
You're back up and running!
Keep a look out for spare parts for your machine and
snatch 'em up! yes
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Magicslots
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« Reply #22 on: January 23, 2010, 08:19:25 PM »
Quote
A lot of us buy extra parts for days like today...

I am working on that very thing, following up on a couple of leads.  I may be able to get a spare MPU/motherboard combo here locally for
about 50-60 bucks and a 1 hour drive...if not I am just gonna post an ad in the classifieds here...

 Burning Resistor     Burnt resistors SUCK!
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« Reply #23 on: January 23, 2010, 08:20:47 PM »
so...you should have your machine back up and running tonight!  Tongue Out
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Magicslots
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« Reply #24 on: January 23, 2010, 08:53:07 PM »
Well....maybe.....  I have applied a fix with piggybacked resistors that I got from Frys  hissy fit 
No they didn't have the right one either  frying pan
So I piggybacked 2  1/4 watt 1.5ohm units together.  But I think I screwed up, it should have the .5 watt rating,
but I think that the ohms resistance is going to be too low... no
So I am just gonna leave the Denom bulb out until I can get the correct one for the board.
I am still waiting to hear back from the local guy that has some parts.
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