Converting a 6000 3-reel to a 4-reel Bonus Frenzy?

[knagl]

Greetings.  I'm brand new to Bally slots, so any help anyone can provide would be great.

I currently have a 3-reel Bally 6000 9" top (assuming that's a 9", same as IGT?) with a Blazing 7's Double Jackpot kit in there.  The machine does not have the speakers in the top box -- just the one speaker down behind the coin tray.

Am I biting off too much to try and do this?  I'm interested in converting this game to a 4-reel "Bonus Frenzy" game.  In looking at the machine, the tray or bar that the reels sit on does not appear to support a 4th reel.  What all would I need to buy (aside from the glass kit and reel strips and chips, of course) to do this conversion?  Do I need four new reels, or can I use the three I have now?  (ie. do the 4-reel games use narrower reels?)  Do I need a new shelf/bracket with a 4th plug?  Do I need the enhanced sound board and the top box speakers to get the "frenzy" sounds that this kit has in the casino?

What say you, Bally experts -- should I even try this, or just stick with 3-reel kits for this machine?

Thanks in advance.

[a69mopar]

The reels you have can convert to the narrow setting, so you will need an extra reel.  You will also need the top bar that the reels slot into, the rail that the reels secure on, the 4 reel harness.  If you have the pro sound board (not Pro Sound II), then you would need the 8 meg sound chip for Bonus Frenzy.  If you want Pro Sound II you would need the board, harness, speakers/brackets and the correct 64 meg chip for that board.  The machine without Pro Sound should have the sounds for the game also.  This isn't a big deal to convert.

Thanks,
Wayne

[Neonkiss]

Just checked my reels from my three reel machine and my four reel machine. Wayne is correct, they have pins for the narrow setting.
I believe that you will need the 4 reel shelf and wire harness. I have a 4 reel 5500 and it does not have a bar in the back to catch the reels. My shelf has slots for the reels to position into. I would also refer to Wayne on the 6000 machine configuration for that.

[a69mopar]

The S600o machines don't have a shelf, only the bar that the harness plugs come through and the top rail that the reels slot into also.  There isn't any back bar on them either.

Thanks,
Wayne

[a69mopar]

The main board does slide into it's shelf, but that isn't used for the reels.

W

[PWRSTROKE]

I have one of these --Parts complete,working  order, speakers in the top (dual), in MINT condition.  let me know when someone wants to come pick it up for the rite price.  Pms welecome. this game was "born" this way and was not a conversion,Build or Frankenstein.  That ought to be worth a little more for "Originality"-- .  B. 

[knagl]

Thanks for the replies!

I for sure don't have the ProSound II, as I don't have the extra speakers.  How do I determine if I have the ProSound?  ...and is there a difference between the ProSound and the basic speaker setup (other than sounds that are produced by the machine)?  ...and if I'm reading correctly, Wayne, even if I don't have the ProSound, I should still be able to get the 'wacky' frenzy sounds such as the "boink" and other sounds that happen during a respin?  Thanks in advance.

[StatFreak]

I'm not sure, but I think that you will need the ProSound board to hear the sounds specifically tailored for the game. The sounds built into the machine are more generic.

As far as I can tell, Bally used the same ProSound board for the 5500 ProSlot, the 6000 ProSlot, and the V7200 GameMaker, although each have different harnesses.  I have one in my 5500 and it seems to be identical to the one that I purchased for my GameMaker (pics below).

The one thing that I haven't compared between the two is the version listed on the small U7 chip.

Here are a couple of pictures of the ProSound board (not to be confused with ProSound II).
The 8mb chip goes in the empty socket labeled U3.

[knagl]

Thanks for that info.  Those boards just use the standard speaker that's behind the coin tray?  How spendy are those boards?  Sorry for the dozens of questions, but I'm trying to make a decision on whether I should invest in doing this, or just stick with what I've got.  Thanks in advance!

[knagl]

Well, I took the plunge and bought the 4-reel kit.

Am I correct that this would be the ProSoundII board (and not the one I want, since I don't have the extra speakers)?  Also, can anyone verify for me that the ProSound board that StatFreak posted above works with the standard speaker that is mounted behind the coin tray?  Thanks!

[a69mopar]

The harness is different between an S6000 and a gamemaker. 

W

[knagl]

A follow-up.

No pictures yet, but with help from Dave (kenokarz) and some parts from Danny (SLOTTX), I converted my 3-reel S6000 into a 4-reel game with "Bonus Frenzy" in it.

Notes:

- To replace the lower reel bracket (which plugs into the backplane), you need a second person to help you lift the front door of its hinge and hold it out of the way while you remove the two philips screws on the left side of the cabinet, and then while you put the philips screws back in for the 4-reel bracket.

- The lower reel bracket harness plugs into the same plug on the backplane, regardless if its the 3-reel or 4-reel bracket.

- To replace the reel glass, you can loosen the philips screws on the back of the LED display bar, rather than the nuts underneath the display.


If the machine did not have a ProSound board already installed:

- The ProSound board mounts on the left side of the inside of the cabinet, to the left of the 1st reel -- there are machine screws sticking into the cabinet from the side of the machine where the board mounts.  Run the cable harness down to the left of the reels/MPU tray, and plug it into the backplane in the plug called (something like) "expansion IO" (I can't remember the exact label) -- it's the only place it will fit.

- The black and red wires coming from the ProSound board go to the speaker.  Disconnect the wires going to the speaker terminals -- those will not be used with the ProSound board.  Connect the red and black wires, one to each terminal, to the speaker.