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Author Topic: Slot Topper Wiring  (Read 24528 times)
ashyron
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« Reply #25 on: March 21, 2010, 10:33:18 PM »

You can see in the pics of the black spacer CDS uses to hide the open space between the machine and the topper.  You might have to remove that.

More pics.


* DSCN3569.jpg (171.18 KB, 1024x683 - viewed 304 times.)

* DSCN3570.jpg (43.14 KB, 512x768 - viewed 284 times.)
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« Reply #26 on: March 21, 2010, 10:34:11 PM »

A couple more.


* DSCN3571.jpg (131.41 KB, 1024x683 - viewed 254 times.)

* DSCN3572.jpg (134.39 KB, 1024x683 - viewed 287 times.)
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« Reply #27 on: March 21, 2010, 10:34:43 PM »

One last pic.


* DSCN3573.jpg (83.74 KB, 512x768 - viewed 265 times.)
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cowboygames
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« Reply #28 on: March 21, 2010, 11:14:06 PM »

That does look pretty good, nice pics! Clap If I don't try to go with a CDS mount it might be wise to remoce the hopper plug from the back and cover it with a piece of black sheet metal. The way it looks to sit pretty tight to the top of the machine should make it easy to attach and run wires through the origional candle wire hole though. Thanks for the post. After I get it in and start working with it I'll post updates and pics of anything I do that might assist others yes Hopefully it will be here soon, went in the mail in AZ on Saturday. Might send you one of these  Help or these  arrow as it progresses.
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« Reply #29 on: March 22, 2010, 04:28:53 AM »

And here I  thought i was the only one with a weird "Tigerwood" cabinet!!!


On a plus, changed out "Toast of the Town" for "Reel 'Em In" tonight..was pretty easy!



* CIMG2762.JPG (617.13 KB, 1280x960 - viewed 265 times.)

* CIMG2763.JPG (616 KB, 1280x960 - viewed 288 times.)
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« Reply #30 on: March 22, 2010, 04:52:06 AM »

That does look pretty good, nice pics! Clap If I don't try to go with a CDS mount it might be wise to remoce the hopper plug from the back and cover it with a piece of black sheet metal. The way it looks to sit pretty tight to the top of the machine should make it easy to attach and run wires through the origional candle wire hole though. Thanks for the post. After I get it in and start working with it I'll post updates and pics of anything I do that might assist others yes Hopefully it will be here soon, went in the mail in AZ on Saturday. Might send you one of these  Help or these  arrow as it progresses.

It does sit pretty tight.  I'm liking the the way it looks and might have to try this myself maybe one day.  Post pics as it goes and hope it all works out.

And here I  thought i was the only one with a weird "Tigerwood" cabinet!!!

Nope, I got two round top machines with this cabinet. 
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cowboygames
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« Reply #31 on: March 22, 2010, 05:50:54 AM »

Will do, thanks for the advice so far yes
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ashyron
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« Reply #32 on: March 23, 2010, 05:22:23 AM »

Hey, ya know I was thinking of something.  The topper candle shouldn't be an issue of course but the LED lights run down to a box controller in the top box of the CDS machine.  I'm wondering if hooking up that box to the inside of the s2000 machine instead might be one way to wire this topper??
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« Reply #33 on: March 23, 2010, 05:55:03 AM »

I do not think that would make a difference.

I would use the following factors to decide.
Can the controller be in the topper and not block the light from the topper?
Would placing the controller in the topper reduce number of wires between the machine and topper?

I had no choice in having 3 different wire sets from my S2000 into my topper.
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« Reply #34 on: March 23, 2010, 06:18:26 PM »

I do not think that would make a difference.

I would use the following factors to decide.
Can the controller be in the topper and not block the light from the topper?
Would placing the controller in the topper reduce number of wires between the machine and topper?

I had no choice in having 3 different wire sets from my S2000 into my topper.


On some machines there is a way to control how fast the LED lights chase.  The controller that I have in my machines don't control how fast the LED lights chase though.  I do not believe the controller will fit in the topper hence having it installed in the top box of the machine but I could be wrong.  I have never taken one of these topper apart.  Buzz has though.  I was just thinking since the LED wiring from the topper goes to this controller in the top box of the machine it was be a way to control the speed of the chaser lights.  I also thought it would make for a faster way to wire the topper for power.


And here I  thought i was the only one with a weird "Tigerwood" cabinet!!!
On a plus, changed out "Toast of the Town" for "Reel 'Em In" tonight..was pretty easy!

Not to hijack this thread but would your Reel 'Em In game use a topper insert something like this??


* DSCN3470.jpg (127.65 KB, 1024x683 - viewed 257 times.)
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cowboygames
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« Reply #35 on: March 24, 2010, 01:15:51 AM »

Sonds like my best bet would be to see if someone has an extra contoller and socket that I could just mount to the s2000. Any way of knowing if that box is a controller or just a power supply? Scratch Head
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« Reply #36 on: March 24, 2010, 01:20:15 AM »

I do not think that would make a difference.

I would use the following factors to decide.
Can the controller be in the topper and not block the light from the topper?
Would placing the controller in the topper reduce number of wires between the machine and topper?

I had no choice in having 3 different wire sets from my S2000 into my topper.


On some machines there is a way to control how fast the LED lights chase.  The controller that I have in my machines don't control how fast the LED lights chase though.  I do not believe the controller will fit in the topper hence having it installed in the top box of the machine but I could be wrong.  I have never taken one of these topper apart.  Buzz has though.  I was just thinking since the LED wiring from the topper goes to this controller in the top box of the machine it was be a way to control the speed of the chaser lights.  I also thought it would make for a faster way to wire the topper for power.


And here I  thought i was the only one with a weird "Tigerwood" cabinet!!!
On a plus, changed out "Toast of the Town" for "Reel 'Em In" tonight..was pretty easy!

Not to hijack this thread but would your Reel 'Em In game use a topper insert something like this??

I wish it would! That one is for a DUAL screen.The one I have here is a single screen upright...

Just picked up 3 more WMS 1.5+ boards for it....thanks Smiley

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ashyron
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« Reply #37 on: March 24, 2010, 01:40:59 AM »

Sonds like my best bet would be to see if someone has an extra contoller and socket that I could just mount to the s2000. Any way of knowing if that box is a controller or just a power supply? Scratch Head

I can't do it tonight because it's dark and I can't do it in the morning because we get Dad's CT scan results but maybe tomorrow afternoon I can get out to the old game I have outside and see what's going on inside that controller box.  I tried opening up one in my good game but I couldn't get the controller box open.  I'll also take more pictures while I am out there. I'll try following all the wires out of the top of the machine.  I'm curious to know if this will work now.   Scratch Head Scratch Head

I wish it would! That one is for a DUAL screen.The one I have here is a single screen upright...

Just picked up 3 more WMS 1.5+ boards for it....thanks Smiley 

Kirk, that's a bummer.  Figured it might look good with your machine.
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cowboygames
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« Reply #38 on: March 24, 2010, 02:05:33 AM »

Good luck with dad on the ct scan results. No hurry on this anyway. Sure appreciate the help and effort!
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« Reply #39 on: March 24, 2010, 02:42:07 AM »

On a CDS like Ron has 10 wires go from the top box to the topper.  3 wires for the chaser LEDs and 1 ground
                                                                                               3 wires for the candle ( standard candle plug ) mine have a extension cord one male and one femaile ends about 2' long
                                                                                               3 wires for main lighting  ( black, white and green )

I would think the chaser control would be better in the top box because most chaser control do just that control the speed of the chaser lights. Much easier to remove top glass to adjust speed than to take the topper apart to adjust the speed.
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cowboygames
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« Reply #40 on: March 24, 2010, 05:54:18 AM »

Hi Buzz, you don't happen to have a control box and harness floatin' around extra looking for a nice home do you? yes
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« Reply #41 on: March 24, 2010, 06:20:55 AM »

No I sure don't. 2Moons bought some chaser controls off Ebay you might send him a PM   Ron would be more than happy to help. There is a long thread on this site about Garfield Toppers and hooking up chaser controls that is pretty good reading. Sommer even has a video of a chaser working off a CD player. It's worth watching       http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=3151.0
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #42 on: March 24, 2010, 12:48:27 PM »

I used christmas tree lighting chaser control boxes...
You can set them to chase all kinds of different ways!  propeller
If you get the right ones, they fit into the holes nicely!
The extra ones, I just roll up and store inside the topper.
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« Reply #43 on: March 24, 2010, 09:11:27 PM »

I used christmas tree lighting chaser control boxes...
You can set them to chase all kinds of different ways!  propeller
If you get the right ones, they fit into the holes nicely!
The extra ones, I just roll up and store inside the topper.

Bunker, do you belong to "SEUOA"  Scratch Head  (Slot Expermenters Union of America)
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« Reply #44 on: March 24, 2010, 11:51:32 PM »

I used christmas tree lighting chaser control boxes...
You can set them to chase all kinds of different ways!  propeller
If you get the right ones, they fit into the holes nicely!
The extra ones, I just roll up and store inside the topper.

Maybe time to draw up a simple chaser controller out of a few chips.....
I do have a Garfield topper here to play with


Kirk
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« Reply #45 on: March 25, 2010, 02:32:57 AM »

Sommer had to use a cd player to make his chaser...lol
It'll be great if you could make a small board outta a few chips!
That'll be awesome really!
I'd get one from ya for sure!  yes
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« Reply #46 on: March 25, 2010, 04:57:37 PM »

I got the topper in today and the wiring was actually pretty easy. Went over to Radio Shack and bought the last of the ATT answering machine 12v ac supplies, damn things have been discontinued for about 5 years. Anyway, used that for the led's, flourescents are straight 120 and swapped the CDS candle for the IGT. Everything has it''s neccessary power! Yea! Only problem is I've got 6 blue led's that either won't light or are very dim. One is actually broken. So I'll be heading back to the Shack for some replacements, but other than that this looks like it'll work out ok. Turns out the S2000 has 120v socket in the top box for player tracking stuff so I split that for the 12v ac adapter and the 120v for the other lights. Might put this on top of the Cleopatra instead of the Double Diamond though, much better color match
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ashyron
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« Reply #47 on: March 25, 2010, 06:37:46 PM »

I got the topper in today and the wiring was actually pretty easy. Went over to Radio Shack and bought the last of the ATT answering machine 12v ac supplies, damn things have been discontinued for about 5 years. Anyway, used that for the led's, flourescents are straight 120 and swapped the CDS candle for the IGT. Everything has it''s neccessary power! Yea! Only problem is I've got 6 blue led's that either won't light or are very dim. One is actually broken. So I'll be heading back to the Shack for some replacements, but other than that this looks like it'll work out ok. Turns out the S2000 has 120v socket in the top box for player tracking stuff so I split that for the 12v ac adapter and the 120v for the other lights. Might put this on top of the Cleopatra instead of the Double Diamond though, much better color match

Looks like I won't need to go out and take pictures afterall then.  Can you post pics of your progress??  You didn't waste any time getting it all converted.  I bet it's going to looks great when you get it all done.  Did you have any problems with the LED's getting messed up when you opened the topper?  Are you going to have new plexi-glass made with IGT symbols??
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« Reply #48 on: March 25, 2010, 07:50:13 PM »

Didn't take long at all really. Maybe an hour including going to radio shack and soldering all the diode connections to see if thats why they weren't lighting. Very simple sign to take apart, all the diodes are pc mounted to a rectangularish circuit board. Cds plug had already been removed from back of sign so maybe previous owner was using it for something else also. As far as getting a new plexi, I'm not sure. We don't have those kinds of services available anywhere that would be considered nearby. Might keep my eyes open for a differant insert though. I will post pics when I get the bad LEDs replaced and gotta get a starter for the 18" flourescent also. Haven't decided yet on what type of mounting bracket, but wanna be minimally invasive to the top box with that. I'll keep this updated as I go along. Will those LEDs be 12v or is it the 12 divided by all lights on that circuit? There's actually 3 individual light circuits on the board. Thanks for the info.
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« Reply #49 on: March 25, 2010, 07:58:52 PM »

I doubt the LED's are 12V.
More likely they are approximately 2.1-3V each.
I bet there are numerous parallel circuits of 2 LED's and a resistor in series in three different groups.
This schematic will give you an idea.  
Note it is for the IGT topper LED chaser lights, The one it matches is the Oval topper but the topper I have uses the same schematic they just added more LED's

* TOPPER MARQUEE, GENERIC, BOARD SCHEMATIC.pdf (42.47 KB - downloaded 160 times.)
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