United's Sunny "Shuffle Alley"

[Randy0777]

...Sorry for all the pictures,but it will help with my question's.

[Randy0777]

...

[Randy0777]

OK,here goes a bunch of questions.
If you look at the picture of the solenoids , and the number one pin plate is close,and the others are backed away(while the pin is up). it makes a noise like twelve weedeater  ...all of the others are silent 

The pins on the left do not go up when struck(they do give the points as being hit). If I hit the switch on the top ,they will go up.

[StatFreak]

That's a very cool old game Randy. Hopefully, someone will be able to help you get it working.

[wutsit4]

I have a 1954 United Shuffle Alley.  Recommendations... Check all the connectors that join the various parts of the machine together.  If in doubt, verify connections with an ohm meter, while the machine is off.  Next, use the ohm meter to be sure that the coils are good that release the pins to snap up.  Next, use the ohm meter to check the wiring from the table switches to the relays to the pin release coils.
Because you say one side of the pins won't snap up, I would start my search at the relay that gets tripped for the dead side of the pin rack.  Look at the contacts for good spacing, and clean them by sliding some paper between the contacts while squeezing them together.  Compare the contacts, with the way they look on other working relays.
I'm betting on the relay contacts.
Good Luck,
   Keith

[klorvinborno]

Make sure you know how to clean contacts properly, when I "fixed" my 1964 United Tiger, I ended up creating more problems since I didn't really know what I was doing.  If you can't get yourself a contact cleaning file try a metal finger nail file.

As was mentioned, doesn't sound like a pin relay, but rather one of the relay's on the reset bank for that side.

In case you're not familiar with it a great resource for EM repairs:

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm

[ROCKET]

OK,here goes a bunch of questions.
If you look at the picture of the solenoids , and the number one pin plate is close,and the others are backed away(while the pin is up). it makes a noise like twelve weedeater  ...all of the others are silent 

The pins on the left do not go up when struck(they do give the points as being hit). If I hit the switch on the top ,they will go up.

I would drop  C. J.  a  PM cactusjack

 he will tell you in nanno seconds whats wrong !!

[Randy0777]

Thanks for the replies...
I will check with the ohm. meter and see what I get. As far as cleaning the contacts, learned that on the pinballs 
As I said,I still have a bunch more questions... After I check and know I do not know the answer 

[aklarry]

That is the first game I ever worked on. found one in a rental house in 1963 I was 11,
I worked on that machine for a year without a manual until I finally got it to run.
darn thing was the reason I have spent the last almost 40 years in the vending business.
Now to get back to your problem, Is the plate against the coil with the power off. If so
Those coils can become magnetic after a while. If you can pull the plate away and it snaps back
just take a file and file the top of the coil a very small amount, this will demagnetize the coil.
This was a big problem in the old pinballs with score reels in the 70's and 80's
AkLarry

[aklarry]

The coil on One looks baked also If  you have a meter make sure it is the same resistance (OHM's) as the others

AkLarry

[Randy0777]

Thanks for the replies,and sorry for the delay...
Below is a read on the ohm's.  The number one pin (plate) has a slight larger gap than the rest of them. When the quake hits the pins,the gap opens ,except the number one pin...which pulls the plate closer against the solinoid  . This is where the LOUD noise is coming from. If I push it tight,it gets quiet,if I pull it away it gets quiet...but really hot 

[aklarry]

The coils all look OK so it might be a physical problem. There is a mechanical pin that is used to set the coil gap you just push the pin closer to close the gap to get it the same as the others. just carefully bend the pin down or up to make the gap the same when the coil is turned off. also make sure that the plate is setting flush with the top of the coil. Wish I was closer I could show you in a few minutes ho to do this
AkLarry

[Nedc]

In case you are still having problems:

When the puck hits the lane switch for pin one, a pin relay is energized in the backbox.  This relay sends power to the pin trip relay above pin 1 (the one that is buzzing).

When the pin trip relay pulls in, it unlatches the pin retract mechanism and the pin springs up.

The pin retract mechanism then opens a switch next to the coil to interrupt power to the pin trip relay coil.

On your game, the switch is not opening or is shorted.  The relay coil is staying energized.  That is why it is buzzing and why the coil looks cooked.

Also, the gaps on your pin trip relays are waaaay too wide.  They only need to come out enough to latch the pin retract mechanism.  More travel = more wear and tear.

[Randy0777]

The pictures of the game is in a back room,which we never really use. The last time I looked at it was when I did the OHM readings. I had some spare time the other day and went to work on it, and it was surrounded with boxes  . I moved it two days ago to the main game room(in the middle of the floor). So,this week I need to fix it  .

I'll try the gaps on the coils (like I said,its just #1 ) . My main problem is when I hit the "contacts" on the board with the quake,it will give the points,but the pins wont go up  . I'll play with it more so I can give more info 

[StatFreak]

  Nedc

I gave you a positive karma for offering help on your first post.


StatFreak
  Global Moderator

[Neonkiss]

Also check the leaf switches for proper operation. Many of those are make and break switches. In the open position one set of contacts are closed and when the coil energizes and pulls in, the closed switch opens and the lower leaf closes. If not adjusted correctly, both switches stay closed. Check with an OHM meter to be sure that the operation is correct. Improperly adjusted switches will also burn off the contact on the leaf. Visually check the contacts and verify with a meter.
It's time consuming, but it is the only way to tell.

I had this issue with a pinball recently. My switches were stacked side by side and it made it impossible to visually see the switch operation. Could only tell by using a meter.

[Randy0777]

I cant seem to locate my metal file for the contacts . The other main problem is 5 of the pins on the left will not go up when hit. It will register the score. So need to get someone to hit them while I'm in the back box to see where it is controlled from. I also gave K+ 

[Nedc]

When the puck hits the lane switches, pin relays are energized in the backbox (in one of the reset banks).

These relays register scoring and send power to the pin trip relays above the pins to unlatch and raise the pins.

Since the scoring works, you know the pin relays work.

Because there are 5 pins not retracting, the problem is more likely something common to all those pins.

First, check the wiring harness from all the pin trip relays above the pins.  That harness probably goes through a jones connector.  Do as wutsit4 suggested and check/clean that connector.

Unplug the connector and use a small wire brush or a scotchbright pad and scrub the male pins of the connector.  Make sure you get inside and between all the male pins.

[Randy0777]

 I was able to get the noisy coil  quiet (contacts were sticking) . Another one of the pins were not going up due to the coil not pulling the plate back far enough to release it. So now I have four pins not going up (2,4,7,8) . I tried cleaning all of the connections,inside also. When the puck hits the bottom switches,it does pull the contacts in (see picture)Three hours later,at least its cleaner  .

[Randy0777]

  OK,do I feel stupid. I checked and cleaned everthing in the back box. Volts,ohms,etc... The problem was the contacts right above the pins. You can see them in the picture (red circles) . I released the plates so I could clean the contacts,but when the plates were back in place(pins down) they were not making contact   Adjusted them and the plates,and they all work fine   .

I'm almost done,just a few more questions . In the other picture is the buttons for selections. The "normal strike" and "easy strike" which changes on the back glass when pushed....But,can someone explain the difference   I cant find it as I'm playing.
And what does the other buttons do? The left makes a clicking in the back (everyone is asleep,so cant push it and be in the back). The right button does not seem to do anything.

I found the placards that go over the button...A PDF file that I could print and put over the buttons. I cant find the file nor can I locate where I found them at on the net (Thought it was on Clays site)   . Does anyone have a copy?
Thanks for all the help  

EDIT;I found out what the other button suppose to do. Regulation or bonus. So now I have my next task...figure out why it wont change

EDIT 2 . Checked the switch.Removed and cleaned...all is well  Just need the lables for the buttons