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Author Topic: help me repair my new, old one armed bandit :)  (Read 37293 times)
iNiLLeR
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« Reply #25 on: July 17, 2010, 03:25:00 PM »

ohh okay..... :/... you know where i can get a replacement?

and btw. do you have a place i can see how the wires to the white bottom (that sees if the door is closed or not) should be... so i can get the error code 50 away?
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uniman
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« Reply #26 on: July 17, 2010, 03:42:38 PM »

Code 50 will stay on until a game is played (reels are spun).
You can jumper the wires to the white button by connecting the two together. If your white button has four wires than two are used for cabinet interior light. Jumper the blue and black wires. Also remember the door has a lock optic (Older models have a switch). When the door is locked the optic is blocked by a tab, similar to the handle.
If this door lock optic is not blocked, error 50 will happen. 
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iNiLLeR
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« Reply #27 on: July 17, 2010, 03:52:20 PM »

ok i just played a bít and error code 50 is there when im playing...

i got 3 BAR and desided to cash out to see if it works,,, but now it isnt working :/ is it because of the error code 50 you think
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uniman
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« Reply #28 on: July 17, 2010, 03:58:35 PM »

Error 50 should not be there once you hit the spin button. The reels should not spin if there is an actual open/unlocked door condition. If an open/unlocked condition happens during a spin the machine will alarm with a chirp-chirp-chirp and the reels will not stop until the door is openned and the yellow reset is pushed. You cannot cashout with an error 50.
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iNiLLeR
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« Reply #29 on: July 17, 2010, 04:01:27 PM »

thanks for the answers but do you know any places i can get a new sensor Smiley ?
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uniman
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« Reply #30 on: July 17, 2010, 04:02:20 PM »

another note; the white button, called a cherry switch, is mounted on a bracket that is adjustable. If yours is setting just a bit too far back the switch may be tripping the door open alarm. There are screws behind the bracket. You can loosen the screws, pull the bracket forward and then tighten the screws.
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iNiLLeR
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« Reply #31 on: July 17, 2010, 04:06:16 PM »

thank you.... when i tested the sensors... i pulled out all the cables to the white switch... do you have a clue how i put them back together :S Tongue!!

and thanks again...

btw2. did you know of any places where you can get a new sensor?
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uniman
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« Reply #32 on: July 17, 2010, 04:07:56 PM »

thanks for the answers but do you know any places i can get a new sensor Smiley ?

Jim at BlueRidge Slots should have them, not sure if he would mess with such a small order?
I may a few in the basement, will have to check.
How many are you looking for?
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iNiLLeR
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« Reply #33 on: July 17, 2010, 04:09:04 PM »

think its only one... but maybe 3 to be sure.... dont know

do you have an answer to my other question
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uniman
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« Reply #34 on: July 17, 2010, 04:09:40 PM »

thank you.... when i tested the sensors... i pulled out all the cables to the white switch... do you have a clue how i put them back together :S Tongue!!

and thanks again...

btw2. did you know of any places where you can get a new sensor?
How many wires were connected to your white switch and what color were they?
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iNiLLeR
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« Reply #35 on: July 17, 2010, 04:20:35 PM »

here are to pictures that shows it....


Shot at 2010-07-17


Shot at 2010-07-17
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uniman
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« Reply #36 on: July 17, 2010, 04:28:09 PM »

Your white switch (cherry switch) should have six tabs with three at the top and three at the bottom.
The "door open" wires are black and blue. One wire (does not matter what color, blue or black) goes to the top tab.
The other wire goes to the third tab. This makes it a normally open circuit. You should see a little NO next to the third tab. NO = Normally Open

For four wires connected than there is a green wire and a second black wire coming from the first black wire.
Connect the black to the bottom tab and the green to the tab right above the bottom tab. This makes a normally closed connection. Should see a NC next to the tab second from the bottom.
Hope this helps.

Not sure about the purple? And I will check on the white and gray. But the Blue and Black are for the door open error 50. The green is for the interior cabinet light. They (blue and green) share the same ground wire. (The two blacks)
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iNiLLeR
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« Reply #37 on: July 17, 2010, 04:30:07 PM »

thanks man.. will try this out....

If you find some sensors then ill be happy Cheesy!!!!
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uniman
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« Reply #38 on: July 17, 2010, 04:45:47 PM »

The White and Grey wires are normally attached to a second cherry switch and are used for communicating to the casino's monitoring system that the door is open. You may see a bundle of wires wrapped up behind the hopper. Same circuit. Not needed for home use, not a concern.
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iNiLLeR
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« Reply #39 on: July 17, 2010, 05:01:13 PM »

another post Smiley just to tell you that i got the cashout working and the error 50 code away Smiley

so now i only need some sensors...

and one more thing... are there any places you can get the small light that are in the machine those used to light through the front glass

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uniman
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« Reply #40 on: July 17, 2010, 05:38:55 PM »

Sorry, I don't have any extra optics for the handle.
But there may be a solution.
The handle optics are smaller than the coin-in optics. They do the same thing tough.
At the bottom of your coin-in assembly there is an optic below the diverter. You should see two optics together and one down below. This optic counts coins that are diverted to the storage can that would be located in the stand below the machine. If this optic is unplugged or missing it does not cause a machine error. So it can be used as a spare.
I removed my downstroke optic and put this bigger one in it's place. And it worked just fine.
It is a bit of a chore. You need to remove the coin-in assembly first (two screws at top and two screws at bottom behind the chute) Then unplug the bottom optic, unscrew it and remove it. Reinstall coin-in assembly.
Then, above the hopper, remove the interior light bracket (two screws), unplug the downstroke optic and unscrew. Screw in the bigger optic in it's place. Reinstall the light bracket. (removing the light bracket gives you room for a screwdriver to remove the optic)
The smaller optics have a little pin to hold them in position, the big one does not. If you move the machine you may need to check the position of the bigger optic. But I doubt it will move.

The light bulbs are 24 or 28v wedge bulbs. I see them at bulbs.com  24v wedge #657  or TZC 28v 80MA also wedge type
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iNiLLeR
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« Reply #41 on: July 18, 2010, 07:39:22 AM »

before i disatach that sensor, i think i whant to test if the rest of it works..... therefore i took this picture



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

i think the tab that goes into the sensor is loose... and there is two holes where the two red rings are... are theese suposed to be connected?
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uniman
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« Reply #42 on: July 18, 2010, 01:50:24 PM »

before i disatach that sensor, i think i whant to test if the rest of it works..... therefore i took this picture

i think the tab that goes into the sensor is loose... and there is two holes where the two red rings are... are theese suposed to be connected?
Yes, that is a problem. Your solenoid is disconnected from the handle release. There should be a cotter pin connecting those two pieces. You need to correct that.
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iNiLLeR
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« Reply #43 on: July 18, 2010, 02:13:06 PM »

thanks... the big light linears.. thear are behind the big glasses at the top and the bottoms... are they at bulbs.com aswell?
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iNiLLeR
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« Reply #44 on: July 18, 2010, 04:20:06 PM »

By your help ive now manage to get the handle working also.... you dont know how happy im am Cheesy!!! many many thanks dude...
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iNiLLeR
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« Reply #45 on: July 19, 2010, 11:56:40 AM »

Ive got a question more... on the internet ive read that the machine can be very warm and maybe set fire if its on to long.. is there anyway to "stop" that?
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uniman
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« Reply #46 on: July 19, 2010, 11:09:01 PM »

Ive got a question more... on the internet ive read that the machine can be very warm and maybe set fire if its on to long.. is there anyway to "stop" that?


I do not know of any casino that caught fire because the slots were too hot! And in the casinos they are on 24 hours a day, seven days a week!

I would suggest shutting the machine off when not in use. That's what I do. (Some folks leave them on all the time.)
And I would suggest a surge protection device on/with a power strip. You can then turn on/off your machine without opening the door. And depending on the quality of the surge protection, it will protect the components from power surges.
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iNiLLeR
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« Reply #47 on: July 22, 2010, 08:02:52 AM »

yeah ok... ive thought about that to.....

Are there supoosed to be light at the "belly glass" ??

And sometimes when i throug coins in they come out again...... but then i just push the door so its more closed then the coins are taken... are there any way to solve that problem?
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Neonkiss
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« Reply #48 on: July 22, 2010, 08:53:41 PM »

Ive got a question more... on the internet ive read that the machine can be very warm and maybe set fire if its on to long.. is there anyway to "stop" that?

It was an attract feature on the Bally Blazing Sevens..... frying pan rotflmao Crazy Cry Laughing
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« Reply #49 on: July 22, 2010, 09:24:00 PM »

Ive got a question more... on the internet ive read that the machine can be very warm and maybe set fire if its on to long.. is there anyway to "stop" that?

It was an attract feature on the Bally Blazing Sevens..... frying pan rotflmao Crazy Cry Laughing

 Cry Laughing Cry Laughing Cry Laughing Cry Laughing  Dayum! This casino is on fire!! Crazy
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