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Author Topic: WMS change over  (Read 16223 times)
pyrohobie
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« on: July 05, 2010, 11:51:52 PM »

 Scratch Head I was changing m beach party over to jackpot party and something happen and I wonder how bd I screwed up things ad how to fix.

One the dotmation screen:    Prom1 checksum
                                         0x5BD5

in the card reader;   3 out of the 5 lights are on-the middle 3

No led's onthe fronts

Thank you for any help
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knagl
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Kevin


« Reply #1 on: July 06, 2010, 06:27:41 PM »

Try switching back to the chips that were working.  If the problem persists, then you can eliminate the new game as being the source.

When you say that three of the five lights are on "in the card reader", are you talking about the voltage indicator LEDs on the processor card inside the main door of the machine?  If so, it's possible that your power supply has partially died (common).  There are threads in this section (including one by CFH) on how to replace your power supply with a computer ATX power supply.
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« Reply #2 on: November 12, 2010, 11:24:54 PM »

...
The othee machine I got was jackpot party-I wanted the orginal version and I got the beach party so I bought the chips to install- That was a big mistake. When I turn the machine on I get the 3 led's in the middle of the I/O board and nothing starts up.

Do you know of any real good trouble shooting books on these machines-I have put in a lot of money with fewer people getting back with me.
...


I am responding to this PM publicly so that all of our members can benefit from the exchange as well as offer help, which collectively will no doubt be better than any help I could give privately. Hail


Putting aside the power issues for a moment, changing games in a Wms Dotmation requires that you have a clear/denom chip. The ID's of the game chips are stored in an EEPROM on the backplane for security and the game will fail (lock up) if the chips on the board don't match the stored information when the game is powered up. Wms Dot clear chips come in specific denominations, so assuming that you have 25ยข machines, you will need to have a 25ยข clear chip. There will also be issues if the jurisdictions of the chips for the two games don't match (you will read more about this in the thread listed below.)

For detailed information and documentation on changing games in a Wms Dotmation, as well as a diagram of the location of the sound jumper, please read the top thread that is stickied at the top of this board. It is called WMS Dotmation Game Change Docs & How To and you can just click on this link. Be sure to download the attachments in the post.


Okay, now to the PS issue. PS problems are a very common issue with the Dotmation machines. This has been well covered in threads many times in the Wms reel slots board. If the outer two LEDs aren't lit, then you are missing the +5VI and +18V voltages on the board. If the PS is bad, you can either replace it with an OEM PS, or buy an ATX PS and perform the modification that is documented in other threads on this board.

To start, you should first check the fuses to be sure that none are blown. Use the continuity setting on a volt meter and do not trust your eyes. Then check the output voltages at the PS with a volt meter. If you have these "missing" voltages at the PS, you will want to trace the connectors and check for voltage at the backplane. If the top board in the card cage is getting voltage at the backplane, then the top board might be bad. However, it is FAR more likely that your PS is failing.

Please report back with what you find. The more information you give us, the more we can help you.


Stat garfield
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pyrohobie
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« Reply #3 on: November 13, 2010, 12:45:55 AM »

Thanks- Will head down tomarrow to Radio Shack to get a new power supply- This had the power supply already converted by a good guy that knows. I have a 25 cent clear chip and cleared the error I had in the orginal post of the dotomation box- When I reboot at least the "Williams logo" is in the dotomation box
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« Reply #4 on: November 13, 2010, 01:25:00 AM »

That's progress. Are the two power LEDs still out? If you already have the PS mod, I would double check the fuses and voltages before running out to replace it. It is possible that the supply is bad, but it wouldn't hurt to check a bit first.
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« Reply #5 on: November 13, 2010, 03:44:23 AM »

 :103-OK for the stupid question of the day- where do you check these?
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« Reply #6 on: November 13, 2010, 04:58:29 AM »

Now that I've had a chance to re-read the documents, I believe that your problem is with the original PS -- specifically in the PDU, and not with your ATX.

The Main fuse is probably fine. It is located directly below the power button. It uses a 4 Amp Slow Blow, 250V fuse. Check it anyway.


Even though you already have an ATX conversion, the ATX doesn't supply the +20volts, the original Power Distribution Unit (PDU) does. (This seems to be labeled +18 on the board Scratch Head I'm not sure about this discrepancy. As I told you, I'm not an expert on these.)


Also, according to CFH's lower PS replacement thread, the original PDU supplies one of the +5 volts, but he doesn't say which. Those are the two voltages that you're missing. Again, I'm not sure if the +5VI comes from the ATX or the original PDU, but it would make sense that the one you're missing is coming from the PDU and not the ATX.

The two pins you need to check are marked in red in the fifth picture in Clay's first post, to distinguish them from the voltages supplied by the new ATX in blue.  For giggles, I would also check the +5v marked in blue that's supplied by the ATX. It couldn't hurt. arrow

Not to sound condescending, but you check each of these pins against ground. Do NOT put your volt meter across these two pins!

From Clay's posts:
Quote
Note the 20 volts is supplied by the original Wms power supply (it is unregulated, goes through a bridge rectifier, filter caps, and a fuse). If that is missing you will need to check the bridge rectifier/fuse inside the original Wms power supply box.

I believe that your problem lies there.

Here is a link to Robert E. Sult's power supply document. It describes both PSs (upper and lower) and shows the inside of the Power distribution Unit. You will find the fuse you're looking for on the PDU board in the second picture on page 6 showing the hollowed out PDU without the regulated PS. Remember that CFH's ATX mod disconnects the regulated PS completely.



Since you're probably not up to recapping the PDU or doing other soldering, I would suggest that if the internal fuse on the PDU is good, you just replace the unit. However, I would still check the outputs of the +20v and the +5 (in the upper right corner pin per CFH's diagram) before doing so to be sure that the problem is there and not further down the line.


Stat garfield
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pyrohobie
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« Reply #7 on: November 13, 2010, 04:00:20 PM »

Ok Guys;

I also have a reel em in and it works perfect. Can I swap the power supply out of this and put it in the Jackpot Party and then work on the power supply out of this. How do you take the PS out-unhook the cables/2 nuts in front and what else. It seams like a easy thing to do but NOTHING has been easy for me on these thing until writing here.
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pyrohobie
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« Reply #8 on: November 13, 2010, 04:34:47 PM »

Ok-I switched the PS out of the Reel em in and put it into Jackpot Party. I have 5 LEDS on the I/O board. Now I got the LED on for the error on the I/O board.

I have no door LED's

Where should I head for now?

Thanks;

Doug
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pyrohobie
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« Reply #9 on: November 13, 2010, 05:08:01 PM »

OK,

I took off the PS from my Jackpot Party and opened it up- The fuse is burnt out in F1- Is that the problem of what I was talking about in the other topic? above Scratch Head
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I haven't met a Jackpot that I didn't like!!!


« Reply #10 on: November 13, 2010, 06:01:07 PM »

OK,

I took off the PS from my Jackpot Party and opened it up- The fuse is burnt out in F1- Is that the problem of what I was talking about in the other topic? above Scratch Head

I moved your new topic to the original topic so that it does not get confusing with replies in multiple places.

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« Reply #11 on: November 13, 2010, 07:38:53 PM »

OK,

I took off the PS from my Jackpot Party and opened it up- The fuse is burnt out in F1- Is that the problem of what I was talking about in the other topic? above Scratch Head

You should certainly replace it and reinstall it. If it burns out again, then you most likely have other problems causing the fuse to blow. If it doesn't then your power problem is solved.


<ADD> I'm not sure of the board number for the fuse on the PDU unregulated board. As long as you are referring to that fuse, and not the fuse in the regulated PS (the smaller unit inside the large power cabinet), then we're good. The regulated PS should be completely disconnected. That is, the two wiring harnesses should not be attached -- as shown in Clay's thread. You should not be looking at the fuse on that unit.


<ADD2> Also, since you've swapped it with a known good PDU and the fuse hasn't blown again, we can assume that IF the fuse blows when you put back the suspect unit, the problem is in the unregulated PDU and not anywhere else in the slot machine.
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« Reply #12 on: November 13, 2010, 08:14:40 PM »

Ok-I switched the PS out of the Reel em in and put it into Jackpot Party. I have 5 LEDS on the I/O board. Now I got the LED on for the error on the I/O board.

I have no door LED's

Where should I head for now?

Thanks;

Doug

If I understand you, you now have all five power LEDs in addition to the DS1 "Fail" LED. If so, pull both boards and carefully inspect the pins that plug into the backplane to make sure that none of them are bent or broken. Make sure that you are completely reseating both boards when you replace them. Just for laughs, check all of the harness connections to the backplane and make sure that they are also well seated.

If the pins are all okay and the two boards are well seated when replaced, then you have a bad I/O or MPU board, although it's still possible that the EPROMs are bad. I would start by swapping out ONLY the I/O board with a known good one. (You want to do only do one thing at a time so that we can isolate the problem.) The I/O board is the top board with all the LEDs.


Stat garfield


By the way, I did some more reading this morning and confirmed that +5VI stands for "Isolated", and that it does come from the isolated switcher in the PDU and not the ATX.  yes propeller
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« Reply #13 on: November 13, 2010, 09:05:02 PM »

OK- I took the I/O board out of the Jackpot Party and stuck it in the Big Bang Piggy Bank machine and a P6A Fail error code came up on that screen.

Is my I/O board screwed up?
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pyrohobie
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« Reply #14 on: November 13, 2010, 09:50:10 PM »

While trying to find if the I/O board was the trouble-I stuck it bank into Big Bang Piggy Bankin and all it does now is DONGS! continueous

Anybody have a gun!!!

OK- I put another I/O board and I got a error code- JUr  bAd

Anything on this one?
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« Reply #15 on: November 13, 2010, 10:57:30 PM »

Most likely. Put the known good I/O board from the Pig into the Party and see if the games boots.

<ADD> I don't know what a P6A error code means and can't seem to find it. Scratch Head
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« Reply #16 on: November 13, 2010, 11:04:59 PM »

While trying to find if the I/O board was the trouble-I stuck it bank into Big Bang Piggy Bankin and all it does now is DONGS! continueous

Anybody have a gun!!!

OK- I put another I/O board and I got a error code- JUr  bAd

Anything on this one?

Is this with the original working Pig board?
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« Reply #17 on: November 13, 2010, 11:08:23 PM »

No- The orignal pig board when you put it in just "dongs" all the time

I switched it from the Jackpot party board I/O . Now that gives me the JUr bAd muted
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« Reply #18 on: November 13, 2010, 11:13:03 PM »

No- The orignal pig board when you put it in just "dongs" all the time

I switched it from the Jackpot party board I/O . Now that gives me the JUr bAd muted

Let's keep things straight. First, try the known good I/O board from the Pig in the Party and tell me what happens.
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« Reply #19 on: November 14, 2010, 12:06:34 AM »

Ok-

When I put the original Pig I/O board back into the machine it "dongs" continously. This machine was working fine until I took the I/O board out and tried it in the Jackpot machine.
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« Reply #20 on: November 14, 2010, 12:30:34 AM »

No- The orignal pig board when you put it in just "dongs" all the time

I switched it from the Jackpot party board I/O . Now that gives me the JUr bAd muted

Let's keep things straight. First, try the known good I/O board from the Pig in the Party and tell me what happens.

..or happenED.
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« Reply #21 on: November 14, 2010, 12:40:11 AM »

I get a fail light led that is on- The machine "dongs" all the time-non stop
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« Reply #22 on: November 14, 2010, 12:44:00 AM »

I get a fail light led that is on- The machine "dongs" all the time-non stop

This happened when you put the known good "Big Bang Piggy Banking" I/O board into the "Jackpot Party"? If so, are all of the power LEDs on? That would essentially be the same condition that the original Jackpot Party board showed, except for the bongs. Is that right?


No- The orignal pig board when you put it in just "dongs" all the time

...and do you mean that the Jackpot Party I/O board when put BACK into the Jackpot Party machine now gives you a Bad Jurisdiction error and NO LONGER gives you an LED fail on DS1?

<ADD> Please stick to the Jackpot Party Machine ONLY for now.
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« Reply #23 on: November 14, 2010, 12:54:24 AM »

YES! When I took the board out of the working PIG game and put it in the Jackpot Party I changed nothing compared to the other board. Then when I put it back into the PIG game things changed.
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« Reply #24 on: November 14, 2010, 12:57:09 AM »

Sorry- Lets stick to the Jackpot party game- After we get that solved maybe I can get your help on the Pig game.
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