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Author Topic: Lighted reels - Bulb replacement  (Read 13604 times)
DorothyMacaw
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« on: July 27, 2010, 12:32:14 PM »

Yet again another Newbie question.

My S2000 3 reel has lighted reels. #3 reel is not lighting when it is supposed to. A friend told me that there are three lights on each reel and the top and bottom ones are not used anyway, so just move a good one to where the bad one is.

So what is the proceedure here? Turn the machine off. Pull the reel out. Then do I remove the little Phillips head screws to get to the lamps?

Should I move the good to bad light, or do the top and bottom lights really have a purpose? If they have  purpose is that expensive "H" place to get the light?

Reel, errr .. I mean real basic stuff. Expect more ignorant questions to come.

 - Dorothy
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #1 on: July 27, 2010, 01:12:04 PM »

All questions posted on NLG are good questions Dorothy!
I'd take a known good bulb out and see what number is on it get a package of new ones.
I think it should be #359 bulbs. ( I'll defer to the Vision experts! )
They should all light at the same time during certain situations!

There is tests for light operation in the options setting as well.
I'd perform those light tests first as well as make sure all the bulbs are good by
switching them with a powered up socket or using a multimeter
on each one that doesn't light up to check for continuity.

If you don't know how to check for continuity, buy a package of new bulbs...
it's easier that way anyways....lol

Also, wiggle your wiring connectors around a bit.

The pins may be oxidized...( simple, clean the connector pins with "Deoxit" and wiggle them back in)
            or
A broken reel wire in the reel harness...( this requires physically checking each wire for continuity with a multimeter)
            or
A defective reel control board... ( You gotta go shopping at the vendors websites or call them up
                                                           or place a wanted ad in the "Classifieds" section of NLG)


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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #2 on: July 27, 2010, 01:49:49 PM »

I received a question on how to check for Continuity using a multimeter...
This topic is a perfect place and time to answer this question.

Multimeters are fairly simple to use - especially when checking for
continuity in wiring and connectors.
The first photo is my meter dial set to continuity and the black
ground probe touching one end of the short piece of wire.

The second photo is the red probe touching the other end of the wire.
You'll see that the multimeter changed from a [1.] to [.000]
That means the wire is good!

Most multimeters have a built-in speaker in the meter case which
emits a high-pitched beeping sound.
I have bad hearing so I took mine apart, drilled a small hole, and installed an red LED
in-line with the speaker - which lights up when the suspect wire is good!

Click on photos to enlarge to see the symbol setting for "continuity" on the multimeter dial !
The first picture is clearer when blown up as
I actually had two hands available to steady my camera... rotflmao>>>>


* continuity checking 001.jpg (47.54 KB, 1371x768 - viewed 313 times.)

* continuity checking 002.jpg (45.34 KB, 1254x768 - viewed 299 times.)
« Last Edit: July 27, 2010, 01:55:33 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
Brianzz
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« Reply #3 on: July 27, 2010, 02:22:28 PM »

I'll defer you to the photos...

Pop your reel out, if you have small frail hands you can do this without taking the reel strip off. In photo 1 you can see the left side of the reel basket and the backlight assembly... 2nd picture is a closer view of said backlight assembly (yes I know those strips aren't backlit strips Tongue Out). Those little black doohickeys hold the light bulbs in, if you grab one and turn it one half turn it should come out in your hand. Then just pull the bulb out and pop it back in with another half turn.


* 100_0922.jpg (98.08 KB, 507x473 - viewed 324 times.)

* 100_0923.jpg (102.45 KB, 648x486 - viewed 312 times.)
« Last Edit: July 27, 2010, 02:30:11 PM by Brianzz » Logged
Brianzz
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« Reply #4 on: July 27, 2010, 02:23:29 PM »

And indeed the replacement bulbs are 359... available for huge shipping from Happ or from the automotive aisle at your local big box retailer.

And your friend was right, the upper and lower section of lights aren't used unless there's a "wild anywhere" symbol like on wild cherry and then about half the time they don't light up correctly either.




* 100_0925.jpg (88.71 KB, 721x847 - viewed 327 times.)
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #5 on: July 27, 2010, 02:26:36 PM »

gismo, gizmo, gubbins, thingamabob, thingamajig, thingmabob, thingmajig,
thingumabob, thingumajig, thingummy, whatchamacallit, whatchamacallum,
whatsis, widget, doodad, doojigger, gimmick and DOOHICKEY!

...otherwise known as a little black plastic light bulb socket or holder....  rotflmao
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Brianzz
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« Reply #6 on: July 27, 2010, 02:29:45 PM »

I tend to stray away from actual names of things.. usually referring to them as that black thing or that f***** thing
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #7 on: July 27, 2010, 02:31:26 PM »

I tend to stray away from actual names of things..
usually referring to them as that black thing or that f***** thing

 rotflmao rotflmao rotflmao

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DorothyMacaw
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« Reply #8 on: July 27, 2010, 02:35:44 PM »

Brianzz

Yahoo !!! Doohickey Workee !!!

Thanks everybody.

Now off to Radio Shack to look at multimeters.

 - Dorothy
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« Reply #9 on: July 27, 2010, 04:10:59 PM »

LED substitute for #359??
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« Reply #10 on: July 27, 2010, 04:46:06 PM »

LED substitute for #359??

There really isn't one that works halfway decent. You can use the same LED replacement that you use for the buttons but they have a really concentrated beam for the lack of a better term, but they'll do in a pinch I guess.
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Buzz
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« Reply #11 on: July 27, 2010, 04:59:53 PM »

reho33    LED in backlit look terrible. LED's tend to shine a beam much like a spot light, and seeing as how the backlit never go completely out, your looking at all these 18 beams shining on the reel strips at all times. (3 reel machine)  

For what it's worth a 359 bulb is 12 volt   194 is 14 volt  either will work but I would think the life span of a 14 volt bulb in a 14 volt machine would be longer.

When I have to change a bunch of backlit bulbs on one reel, I remove the reel basket from the shaft.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #12 on: July 27, 2010, 05:04:26 PM »

I agree...I don't like the tiny, little spotlights either.
I haven't found a really good  "wide beam" replacement LED for the reels yet.
I had seen some tiny rounded crystal-like LEDs that they
use for Christmas lighting but I haven't tried to buy any.
It would appear that these rounded ones may do the
trick behind the lighted strip symbols.
The light may diffuse better?
I would have to do some searching around for the correct voltage and sizes.

Here's a couple of links I just found while typing this post out.
Look at the bottom of the page on this link>>>

http://www.aachristmas.com/vpasp/led-christmas-lights.asp

Look around the internet...I'm sure you'll find something suitable and less pricey!

« Last Edit: July 27, 2010, 06:06:09 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
CaptainHappy
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« Reply #13 on: July 27, 2010, 07:39:06 PM »

Hi Folks,

The 359 Bulbs are Xenon bulbs, in other words special and more expensive. I believe they have Xenon gas inside them, and they burn brighter than the other bulbs that may also work. I have experimented with different bulbs and these light the reel strips up the best. Buzz and I played on one of my machines and the LEDs looked crappy as he mentioned. One one machine I had I noticed that some of the backlighting was dim, and others were bright. This is when I discovered that the dimmer locations had the other bulbs, and not the 359's.

On IGT machines with factory backlit LED reels, they have a little circuit board with a matrix of surface mounted LEDs on them. These machines have a different Reel light controller board, different reels, and different wiring harnesses for backlighting. These setups do look awesome!!! yes propeller yes Maybe someone with this setup one can post pictures??? stir the pot / get cooking Scratch Head stir the pot / get cooking Please Post Pictures I am not lucky enough to have one personally! bawling bawling bawling

CaptainHappy CaptainHappy
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« Reply #14 on: July 27, 2010, 08:28:12 PM »

the LED's IGT uses are like a flat square that emits really bright white light. There were some standard game LED backlit reels on ebay some time ago but I can't find them now. Blueridge had some 5 reel LED kits with controllers for sale not too terribly long ago for a good price new in box but I couldn't get one at the time.

I'd say with certainty that the LED controller is far different than the XE controller
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #15 on: July 27, 2010, 11:41:53 PM »

Brianzz,
The "XE" controller - I don't know what it means?
I'm guessing for the xenon bulbs?
The regular bulbs use a different more standard (or older) controller board?
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« Reply #16 on: July 27, 2010, 11:58:15 PM »

I just ordered a box from Happ Controls,  #359 XENON LAMP WEDGE T3-1/4, & other items. $.79 ea.
They seem to be the only ones who carry that bulb.
My machine is a D. D. Haywire & when it goes " Haywire " all the bulbs light up at different times.
All the bulbs in my Haywire were #359.
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« Reply #17 on: July 27, 2010, 11:59:41 PM »

XE bulbs are the xenon gas bulbs which is what IGT started with.. the LED backlighting has a different controller
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Brianzz
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« Reply #18 on: July 28, 2010, 12:02:36 AM »

I just ordered a box from Happ Controls,  #359 XENON LAMP WEDGE T3-1/4, & other items. $.79 ea.
They seem to be the only ones who carry that bulb.
My machine is a D. D. Haywire & when it goes " Haywire " all the bulbs light up at different times.
All the bulbs in my Haywire were #359.


You mean like this?

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/8rBl1VpJjsQ&rel=0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/8rBl1VpJjsQ&rel=0</a>
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #19 on: July 28, 2010, 12:38:50 AM »

Hey?! Those are not supposed to "Haywire" more than 4 times in a row!  Crazy

Oh nice lights by the way... Tongue Out
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« Reply #20 on: July 28, 2010, 12:45:35 AM »

Hey?! Those are not supposed to "Haywire" more than 4 times in a row!  Crazy

Oh nice lights by the way... Tongue Out

S2K Haywire games go up to 10 times... after about the 4th time that top pay symbol ding gets annoying
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« Reply #21 on: July 28, 2010, 12:55:39 AM »

The S+ HD also haywires up to 9 times (10 times pay) on the single HW pay. However, none of the other pays do this. I believe the next highest number of repeats is 7 (8 times pay) for single bars, but don't quote me (CRS).
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« Reply #22 on: July 28, 2010, 02:15:24 AM »

Hmm.. maybe I was thinking of straight up haywire.. weird..

 JW ~P 2P       |  3  14   2     |        84.|     3121.|     10X2
 1N JW JW       |  5   2   2     |        20.|    13107.|     8X10

Yep, those were the highest.
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« Reply #23 on: August 09, 2010, 08:06:33 PM »

"My S2000 D.D. Haywire so far has only gone "Haywire" three times, the original win combination  plus three haywire. I also thought the max was four haywires  plus the original win combination., which would be a total of five in the window.
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« Reply #24 on: August 10, 2010, 01:19:20 AM »

I believe my IGT S2000 Double Diamond Haywire has "Haywired" 9 times...

Dan #2
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