Where do I start?

[flash123]

  :103-I just won at auction an IGT slant top poker machine, got it home and nothing seems to work except the lights go on. the seller said it just needed to be reset. The monitor says door open call attendant and CMOS Data I found out that the optic emitter or receiver ( the one on the door has a broken wire. I see a part with a differant number for sale from World wide gaming (my number is 57503000 and the new one is 57506900) Will this work ? Should I buy both the emitter and receiver to be safe? which one goes on the door?
Next I have tried the reset button and tried turning the reset key and nothing happens at all., the monitor does not change. I live in south Florida, does any know some one i can have look at this since i have never done this before, and there seem to be many problems. I can figure most things out, but there are so many wires that go no where and are cut, I have just been scratching my head as to what to try first. HELP PLease
 PS. There are some extra chips I found inside one says IGT Clear and one says IGT PE Plus set Denom and 3 others one small one with no markings one small one (FB07ab) and one larger one(KM62256ALP-10/ 941B)I pulled the mother board and there are no empty spaces. I know this is a lot for a start sorry.
Steve

[result1]

this may help you

http://www.myslotnotes.com/okPDF/IGT/SplusPE%20Electonic_Repair_Manual.pdf

[jay]

It doesn't sound all that bad.....

It sounds like you have a PE+ (PE's didn't have Bill validator and you would not have found a Set chip if it didn't have a bill validator, its not a newer machine as they use simms not chips).

Next don't worry too much about loose wires (yet). When a machine is pulled from a Casino they strip out the player tracking system, and sometimes a progressive system. There may have also been an enhanced security system that goes too. The security system is more for the benefit of the Casino. They use this to ensure that the cash box guys are not stealing coins, or the hopper fill people are not stealing bills and no one is messing with game chips or other subs systems. When this stuff is being pulled its quick and dirty and lots of loose wires are left.

The Clear Chip and Set Chip replace the Game Chip and are used when you need them.
Clear clears the game statistics and brings it back to factory settings. You don't need this now.
The Set Chip is used to set the denomination for the Bill Validator and to activate it.  
Basically a slot works on credits - so you need to tell it what a credit is worth. If its 25c then you get 4 credits for a buck, if its a dime you get 10 for dollar.
We can deal with that later when you get your game up and working.

Lets start with terminology. The motherboard is built into the base of the machine. The board you removed was the MPU which is the board that plugs into the Motherboard.
There are two cmos chips. One is on the motherboard (solderd) and the other is on the MPU socketed. These two chips need to be in sync otherwise you get the CMOS error.

To get a CMOS error a number of things can occur. The built in battery on the MPU could run low and it could forget about the settings. The game chips could have been replaced with a different game or even a different MPU board. Its a common error.

To clear that error you should be able to find a white self test button. Hold this button in for about 3 seconds until you hear a ding. Close the door.

When the door is closed you should see a message on the screen like RESTART and Door Closure. Both of these messages are more or less warning saying that the power has just come back on (restart) and the Door message says the that the door has recently been open. Both go away when the first game is played through.

If the Door Open Message persists then we need to look at the wires that pertain to your door optics. Also sometimes these machines were wired up so that the optics went though the door on the cash can. So if that door is absent a lock (like they usually are) then you might want to hold it closed with a small piece of duck tape for the time being.

Please post back and let us know whats going on, and perhaps post a couple of pics of the door optics and wires and such if it appears that the door open message is continuing.

[knagl]

Welcome to  , Steve!  You've found the best site on the web for home ownership of slot machines.  I'm confident we'll get your machine up and running.


Keep in mind, if the wires to the optic emitter/receiver are broken, Jay's (correct) directions won't get you too far, as the machine won't see the door closing and you won't be able to get past the error message.  Are you able to repair the wire yourself, or is it broken to the point that you can't splice it back together?

I agree with Jay -- you're not in bad shape if the machine is turning on and you're getting a CMOS DATA error -- that's fairly common and easy to clear once you have working door optics.

Without badmouthing them too much, I'll say that I've had some less than stellar dealings with the company you mentioned where you found the door optic for sale.  Some other people I know have, also, and I would only use them as a last resort.  That's just my $0.02 -- take it for what it's worth.

If you post a "Want To Buy" message in the classifieds section of our forum and indicate that you're looking to buy a set of door optics for a PE+ slant top, one of the reputable vendors who frequents the site will be able to sell you the parts you need at a good price.  If you can't find anyone to sell them to you, I think I might have a spare set I can send to you.

I really like the PE+ platform, and once you get it up and running you'll be a pro at it in notime.  May I ask how much you got your machine for at the auction?

[flash123]

Kevin
I found a company called SPININC in Miami for the optics on the web, different numbers but the site says they are compatible. Is this the company you say not to deal with?
I am trying to learn to use this site, I am older dog and trying to re-size the pictures I took to post. The one optic from the door is totaled both wires broken off.
The guy who last owned this said it just needs to be reset, but since the reset button does nothing I am thinking it is more than that. I have tried to play with the volume wheel on the board but nothing.
Thanks for the info. I now have to go work on my car the starter needs to be replaced, not my week for things electrical I guess

[flash123]

 :99-Well that company will not sell to me because of where I live. I will try and post a line in the classified section and see what I can do.

[Buzz]

This is a diagram Bunker posted. I've never did this Mod but I can see no reason it will not work on most all IGT machines. I'm thinking all IGTs but that's a pretty broad statement. If you do go the optic route remember the large door in the front must be closed, if not the tricky main door latch will not let the optics see each other.

Forget the part about a light, you don't have one

[flash123]

 :3-Thanks for the diagram. I was thinking why I would not be able to jump the circut. I emailed Darrell and he has the parts i need,so I will get those and then hope that works before I do any modifications.

[Buzz]

:3-Thanks for the diagram. I was thinking why I would not be able to jump the circut. I emailed Darrell and he has the parts i need,so I will get those and then hope that works before I do any modifications.

Good choice !!

I'm going to do this Mod to every one of my machines. Good enough for Bunker good enough for ME !!

[knagl]

I've always been a little leery of replacing the optics with a switch as I know an S+ (similar technology) won't clear a 61 code with the optics bypassed -- I don't know if a PE+ would encounter similar issues.

I was talking about Worldwide Gaming, Steve, which you mentioned in your first post.  Also, you're not the first person I've read about who was told by Spin, Inc. that they won't sell to them.  Hopefully you'll get your parts soon from Darrell and you'll be up and running.  Note that the transmitter and receiver have two different color wires (I presume to make them easier to tell apart).  Be sure you're installing the correct one when you go to replace it.

The volume knob won't do much of anything with your game in its current state.  I'd go ahead and rotate the knob to somewhere in the middle so you'll be able to hear the 'ding' if/when you get to that point with your new optics.

Also, a word of caution, always turn the machine off before removing or inserting the board (never insert or remove the board with the power on).  The board or chips can be damaged if you insert or remove the MPU board with the power on.

[flash123]

Thank you for the advise. Darrell has the parts I need and he will be getting them out to me in Fridays mail. I do know enough not to do anything to a machine when it is plugged in, let alone on. Thanks to you and the others that have responded today, I say Thank You. You have made my first experience a good one. This seems like the place to get help and you have proved that.Belive me when I say I will proceed with caution, and I am sure I will be asking a lot more questions along the way. I also in the midest of a count down to Vegas.  We are going over Labor day Weekend, can not wait. The casinos here in Florida are as tight as can be.
Have A Great Night and Thank you again
Steve

[Buzz]

I've always been a little leery of replacing the optics with a switch as I know an S+ (similar technology) won't clear a 61 code with the optics bypassed -- I don't know if a PE+ would encounter similar issues.

Kevin  Are the optics being bypassed OR replaced with a cheery switch ??   I agree with you , if you simply bypass the optics the machine will always think the door is closed. But with a switch in line, whole different ball game.  

[jay]

There are a couple of ways to bypass the optics.

The first thing about optics is that they are not simply a light. They are pulsing at a certain frequency and I believe that some machines had been upgraded so that the frequency changed every so often. This was to avoid cheaters using light pens.
Nothing on the optics changed I think it was just a different chip.

To Kevins point - simply bypassing the optics will give you a door closed. However when your machine gets an error the bypassed optics don't behave normally so the error can't be cleared.
I thimk that the diagram that Bunker posted came from Ozzy and is know to work well for both the S+ and PE+.

[Buzz]

I can report for a fact that a cheery switch will indeed replace the door optics on a S+   I just installed this temporary to see if it would work. I did not cut one wire on the machine. I took two pretty long pieces of wire, soldered each of the ends so when plugged into the female socket ( door optic plug ) they would stay put. The other end of the two wires, soldered one of them ( same reason ) installed a spade connector on the other one, used a short wire, spade connector one end solder other end. the two soldered ends went to the unpluged cabinet optics plug. The other two to the cheery switch.  First test machine played no matter what I did with the cheery switch. Pulled all the wires loose on that end removed the cheery switch and tested it with a multimeter, it was OK reinstalled and every thing worked as it should. I guess I must have switched the two wires going to the cabinet optics. I had no problem clearing a 41 error and a 61 error.

[knagl]

The last paragraph of what Jay said is what I was talking about.  I haven't experienced it myself (I have optics on all my machines), but there have been threads here of memebrs who were stuck wtih a 61 error and couldn't get past it (with a bypassed optic system using a cherry switch) -- once they attached optics, they could get past it.  Perhaps it depends on the SP chip being used or something.

[Buzz]

The machine I was messing with is a Double Diamond Deluxe 3 coin ( 1st machine I bought )  SP 1271

[Foster]

You only need to connect the 2 wires to the cherry switch the other 2 do need to be connected together.
The PE and S+ you have to unplug the optics for this to work.
Took me a while to figure why it would not work then I decided to unplug the optics and try the single wire between the 2 connectors (one on door and one in cabinet)
This works on the S+ and S2000 (just different colors on the S2000 and the optics can be left connected)
I have not looked at the schematics to figure out why it works but it works.

[stayouttadabunker]

I originally made this optic door bypass because there
was something wrong with my receiver optics.
It didn't occur to me at the time to use a multimeter to check for resistance and
see the differences in readings between a know good receiver versus a burned out one.
I did not know that Ozzy had ever done this as I haven't heard from him in so long really.
I would be interested in seeing what Ozzy came up with.
I love Foster's short-cut of just using two wires to the cherry switch and grounding out
the ground wires of both optics to the machine.
I just haven't tried it but I'm sure it will work.
Mine still has all 4 optic wires going to the cherry switch's contact tabs, along with the Service Light bulb.

Anyways, the receiver optic does not emit any light when viewed through a video camera -
like the emitter optic does.
The simplest I found way to check a receiver optic is
to check it for resistance using a multimeter.

I must warn everyone that the bypass I designed was made for an S2000 machine.
I believe it's different for the S+ because of the polarity and wire colors.

If you try this on an S+, you must be certain which wire colors are the Ground wires
or you'll burn out the emitter/receiver optic bulb.

I will try to point the exact polarity of the S+ wires today for the record.
I would also suggest that the emitter/receiver optics are
exactly the same on coin-in optics boards.
So, that's where I rob a lot of my bulbs from...LOL

These same emitter/receiver bulbs are available at your local
radio snack store, but they charge way too much.
If I need them in a pinch - I'm lucky there's one not too far from me.

 

[jay]

Ozzy's bypass left the optics in place and just allowed the optics to be electrically bypassed while the door was open....

[stayouttadabunker]

Okay!
That's pretty much what I do too, but I disconnect the Molexes and let the tails from the optics hang.
I use and connect the small 2-pin Molexes from the harnesses in this fashion>>>


The S+'s door emitter's wire colors are red and black.
They're using small 2-pin Molex connectors in which the pins
are connected red-to-black w/purple stripe,  and black-to-green.
 
The cabinet-side receiver's wire colors are red and white.
They're also using small 2-pin Molex connectors in which the pins
are connected red-to-red w/brown stripe,  and white-to-green.

When I use a 2-wire bypass, I connect black w/purple stripe-to-red w/ brown stripe.
The two green wires are connected together between the 2 optic harnesses.
I'm sure that the green wires on the harnesses are the ground wires.

If the black w/purple stripe and red w/brown stripe are run out to a cherry switch,
the machine's MPU will think the door is closed/ open depending on the cherry switch plunger's location.

Knagl is 100% correct on the fact that the S+ that you will still need a
good working set of optics to get past the stubborn [61] error code sometimes.
Again this depends on the SP installed.
I use the most popular SP chips and can get past the [61] error codes most often.

Other than this - there are absolutely no problems with doing these
simple door optic modifications for your S+ or S2000.
I've done away with optics on my personal machines because I like to see things work with
the door open while still fooling the MPU into thinking that the door is physically closed.
It's much easier to troubleshoot a machine with the door open....  

[stayouttadabunker]

Here's a good cherry switch.
This one's from an S2000 but will also work on an S+ too!
You just have to drill a small hole on the trays front and
screw in a self-tapping metal screw to hold it in place.
The door handle latch release mechanism needs an angled plate
to push on the cherry switch's plunger.>>>

http://cgi.ebay.com/IGT-S2000-Door-Cherry-Switch-w-Bracket-/280521388802?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0