Battery Soldering Tips

[lizzo54]

Just to add my 2 cents.

I've installed installed battery holders on boards for my IGT splus machine, 3 3902 boards and several of my arcade games.  Here's a link of the holder or one similar:  http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_38543_-1

I'm not a expert solderer but if you own the games, you have to learn the basics.

 I use a soldering iron that's like a pen which has changeable heads.  My last project was last week with a 3902 board.  The biggest pain is removing the board from the metal tray.
  I clip the old battery from its leads with some wire cutters.  I attach a pair of small vise grip needle nose pliers to one of the leads,  turn the board over and apply the iron to the back side solder point.  I use a desoldering braid to draw away the liquid.  (When I turn the board upside down, I elevate it a bit so the pliers are hanging a little bit, so they are pulling on the lead, once the solder bond is liquified, the pliers pull the lead out.)
Once both leads are out, I install the new battery clip, turn the board upside down and solder it in from the backside.

Lenny

[daddy2yea]

Yoeddy I would go with a battery holder when the time comes.  And in addition to Batteries Plus many TV repair shops would do it for you  and I doubt they would charge that much. Plus they would probably have more experience soldering than the people at Batteries Plus.
Mike

[Super Joker]

I've soldered leads on the button-type batteries for various components a lot in the past. And yes, they will explode (wear safety glasses - seriously).

I always rough up the battery where I'm going to solder it with a bit of sandpaper, pocket knife, screwdriver tip, etc. You'll want the solder to stick as quick as possible.

I run what I consider medium heat - I want the surface I'm going to solder onto to get hot without heating up the entire battery. But not so hot, too quick a reaction (kabloomy!). If I can't get the battery tinned in one second, that's too long. And my wire/metal lead will also be tinned and ready. Once both are tinned, I solder them together. I also solder on a dense material to help heat-sink the button cell (chunk of steel, concrete, etc.).

It's like anything else. Even though you're not supposed to do it, a lot of people still do it. If you do it, just be safe.

BTW,  when the one button cell I soldered blew up, it blew up. One second it was there, the next it was gone. Kind of like a mini firecracker.

[brichter]

Somebody mentioned Batteries Plus. They have the assorted leads and the equipment to spot weld those leads to any battery, as well as being a decent source for batteries.

[jay]

A drop or two of flux also goes a long way for quicker adhersion.
Just cause I can... doesn't mean I would want to....I would still lean towards a battery holder.

With the S+ specifically you have a ton on space in your slot so you could easily mount a battery holder on the backside of the metal tray with velcro strips and just run long leads to the board.

[Buzz]

I ask this question, is a battery holder a improvement? I don't think so, the only the reason I can see to install a battery holder is it's a lazy way to change a battery, which by the way is close to every 10 years. (give or take a few) Can a battery in a holder lose contact over the years, of course it can. ( I didn't say it will, I said it can) Have any of you ever had a flashlight that you had to beat the S*** out of to get it to work? Those batteries are in a holder,

Now I did a little experiment the other day, I took a old coin/button battery, sanded it a little bit to clean it, smeared some flux on it, loaded the tip of a hot soldering iron with solder. I held the battery with my index finger and thumb, took the iron and applied solder to the battery, the solder stuck and the battery never got hot enough for me to let go. It did get warm but never hot. Now what I'm getting from this thread is, heat is one of the worse things that can be done to a battery. So I guess I will have to find a Battiers Plus and see what kind of a welder they have that can weld a tab to a battery without using any heat. The 5 different kinds of welders I have in my garage all operate with a electrical arc and that arc produces heat and that heat melts steel. Last time I looked it up steel melts at a higher temp. than solder.

I don't think it's any suprise I will contune soldering my batteries. Online Batteries Plus doesn't sell CR2330, Radio Shack has them for $5.99 each no tab. I can get 100 from China, with shipping $34.98  Now what does that mean. it means I can buy 100, use 6  s**t can 94 and still save money.                                 

[brichter]

Buzz, the batteries in your flashlight beat the hell out of the contacts when you're tossing it in the toolbox, under the house, running it over with the truck, etc....    

They use a spot welder with a tip that looks like a needle, the heat is very localized. The weld looks to be about .005 inches in diameter  

I solder on batteries as well, just rough 'em up and use flux.

[a69mopar]

hey Buzz, why don't you just buy the correct batteries with tabs.  I prefer to use the BR2335 batteries which I believe can withstand higher temperatures.  I don't have to throw any away because they aren't made in China.  Even the batteries that come in the board are BR series.

"coin type lithium batteries are available in two types: poly-carbonmonofluoride lithium batteries (BR series) for uses that require extended reliability and safety over a broad temperature range and manganese dioxide lithium batteries (CR series) for uses that require and strong load pulse characteristics."

read the pdf file attached regarding soldering
Have a great weekend.
Thanks,
Wayne

[StatFreak]

...
So I guess I will have to find a Battiers Plus and see what kind of a welder they have that can weld a tab to a battery without using any heat. The 5 different kinds of welders I have in my garage all operate with a electrical arc and that arc produces heat and that heat melts steel. Last time I looked it up steel melts at a higher temp. than solder.
...

Buzz, I'm not posting this to try to change your mind, but only to point out that the amount of heat transferred depends on the difference in temperature between the two objects (your "welder is hotter" statement), the amount of area in contact, and the duration of contact, all other factors being equal. Their process is safer because both the contact area and time are significantly reduced, so even though the temperature is greater than that of the soldering iron, less heat is transferred to the battery.

[a69mopar]

...
So I guess I will have to find a Battiers Plus and see what kind of a welder they have that can weld a tab to a battery without using any heat. The 5 different kinds of welders I have in my garage all operate with a electrical arc and that arc produces heat and that heat melts steel. Last time I looked it up steel melts at a higher temp. than solder.
...

Buzz, I'm not posting this to try to change your mind, but only to point out that the amount of heat transferred depends on the difference in temperature between the two objects (your "welder is hotter" statement), the amount of area in contact, and the duration of contact, all other factors being equal. Their process is safer because both the contact area and time are significantly reduced, so even though the temperature is greater than that of the soldering iron, less heat is transferred to the battery.

Buying factory leaded (has leads on it) batteries is the best.

W

[Buzz]

David     Wayne     I have never said battery's with the tabs/leds are not the better way. What I have said is it's no big thing to solder a battery. I will add this I will be damned if I will pay a thousand dollars plus shipping for 100 battery's with tabs wheh I can buy 100 without tabs for $34.98 with shipping.

Made in China ?? what isn't ??  My Son just got back from a parts store, I had him get me a U Joint for my big truck, he had two choices a Spicer Brand or a aftermarket. The Spicer brand was $120, aftermarket was $80  Guess where both were made?  CHINA !!!! 

Now I think this thread has just about ran it's course. I'm not going to change my mind. If you want a machine that doesn't have a battery soldered in, do not not get one  that came from me.

[a69mopar]

How many batteries do you need Buzz?

Thanks,
Wayne

[StatFreak]

How many batteries do you need Buzz?

Thanks,
Wayne

I was going to answer, but I don't keep Tabs on how many batteries Buzz uses.        


SF

[brichter]

How many batteries do you need Buzz?

Thanks,
Wayne

I was going to answer, but I don't keep Tabs on how many batteries Buzz uses.          


SF

Ok, that was bad.

[StatFreak]

How many batteries do you need Buzz?

Thanks,
Wayne

I was going to answer, but I don't keep Tabs on how many batteries Buzz uses.          


SF

Ok, that was bad.

Thanks.