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Hi there.  This is an email I got. I didn't look @ machine. Thought someone might have an idea what I should look for.

Sorry to bother you again, the IGT machine is still giving us a fit, it works for awhile then the attendent light comes on and it says either door b or door m isn't closed, so we wipe the sensors off and hit the reset and it works again for a little while, what we were wondering is can we get new sensors for the doors and also another problem has arised, it also throws a fit where the reels keep spinning, sometimes its one of them sometimes its all three, we have to hit the reset button and then that works again for awhile, and sometimes it just wacks out in the middle of the spin it will go slow, or will take awhile for the play max, spin button, etc. to come back on. Do you think that all can be coming from the sensors on the door or maybe we might need a new computer board.
Thanks Ford

There's a little bit of wiggle room on the door handle.
If a player pushes it up a little, the sensors get "un-lined"up.
Check and see if they are lined up and tighten down the hatches! - in other words,
make sure the handle doesn't have that wiggle room to put the sensors out of alignment.
This might involve getting the correct length/sized door lock pawl/jamb.
It might be too short and not sitting down onto the pad close enough -
thus allowing the handle to be too loose causing door open errors.

Thanks. Will put that on my list to check. Not sure when I'll get time to look @ it.

lol...me neither... :97-

I agree with door optic . I ordered one from Jim @ blueridge just in case. If that's not it I can always use an extra.
Going to try and align door also. If I remember last time I had eyes on machine the door had a sag.
Thanks again

The door optics and the whole lever/alignment unit on IGT S2000's suck. :52-
From day one, my S2000 had optic problems because of the cheap piano hinges -
it cannot support the weight of the door properly. :182-
If you ever get a chance, take a look at the heavy duty hinges on older Bally EM's.
They were made right.  :133- :89-
 
I've long gotten rid of the door optics altogether and just hard-wired
the optics directly into the cherry switch for operation.

When you did that--do you connect the wires together in door & connect wires together in cabnet?

No,
I added length to the 2 door optic harness wires on the door - bringing it back to the hinge
and under the reel platform over to the right-side located cherry switch on top of the DBV.
The 2 wires from the door optics cabinet-side was long enough
to connect right to the cherry switch.
No optical "eyes" are needed this way - the cherry switch takes over
the opening and closing of the signals in the line.

Play close attention to the wire colors.
The cherry switch only controls the ground wires of the optics.
The other live optic wires
( from both the cabinet-side optic harness and the door-side harness )
are wired together.
If these are incorrectly wired - you will blow the MPU board components controlling these.

If you can wait - I will give you the exact colors tonight  and
post here in more detail as to how mine is hooked up.
I don't remember off-hand which colors went where exactly on my machine
because I did this modification about a year ago.
 

thanks

okay.
This is how you wire up an S2000 and eliminate the door optics forever.
The green and black wires on the door optic harness needs to be lengthened to
come back toward the hinges, under the reel tray over to
the 3-way cherry switch that's located on top of the DBV.

1). Once you do that, splice the green wire from the door
     to the purple wire on the cabinet side optic harness.

2). Attach a tab on the red wire from the door harness to the 3rd tab on the cherry switch.

3). Finally, attach a tab onto the green wire from the cabinet-side optic harness
     and put that on the left-most tab position on the cherry switch.

You will notice the cabinet light also works off of the cherry switch but occupies the 4th & 6th right-most tabs.
Here's a real terrible drawing but you get the idea.
Click on my drawing to enlarge it.
Print it out and take it over to your machine when you want to work on it!!>>>

K+ for this one Mark. :3- :3-


Topic stickied and renamed.


StatFreak :31-
:nlg-  Global Moderator

Thanks Bunker. I'll have to try.

Let us know if it doesn't work.. :5-    I'll have to take back my sticky and slap Bunker. :200- :125- :203-
 :208- :208- :208-

:31-

I see no reason why it will not work. This week end when I see the machine I was talking about if the man want me to I'll try it. If it doen't work we'll blame Bunker.

Just a note - I had a S2000 machine that if you bumped the door just a little, the machine would tilt.  I messed around with the door optics for weeks and even replaced them but could not get it to work right.  Then I figured out it was the belly door switch in the top left corner of the belly door causing the issue - not the optics.  So make sure and check this switch or bypass it all together if you are having door open issues....

Dan #2

Thanks for info DPALMI. Will check when I look @ it this weekend.
Ford

I took a look @ machine. The people did not want to elimate switch . I had got a new one just in case from Jim@Blueridge.
I put it in and aligned door & switch.
Same thing. Ran it through option 4 tests after which it worked OK.
HOPE IT WILL KEEP WORKING.
Sorry i didn't get to try the elimation of switch.
Thank all of you for help and advice.
Ford

Did you mean " The people did not want to ELIMINATE the door optics  ??

Yep. They wanted the switch. When I told them could eliminate they wanted no part of it.
It's their machine so we do what they want.
I would have liked to see if it worked. I think it will.
Thanks again for all the help.

Stayout, Excellent Idea.
It can be simplified though.

I have found that you only need the 2 wires going to the switch to make it work.
Use only the Green and Red wires that stayout noted.
Wire these to the contacts are closed when switch depressed also if you pull the switch out it also will close the same contacts.

This works on the S2000 with the optics still connected as well.

This also works for the S+ using 1 wire from the door and 1 from the cabinet to a cherry switch.
you must disconnect the optics on the S+ or it will not work.
Door wire is Purple/black
Cabinet is Red wire
Not the Green ones at all.

Good stuff Foster - You have a much better understanding of TTL signaling than I do.
You can understand which wiring is not needed to do the same job. Good stuff!
I commend you highly as I figure out stuff and you simplify it! lol  :3-
I have some other ideas I will posting soon...okay how about now! lol

This has more to do with sound volumes though...
I'm thinking of installing a slider type of dimmer to
take the place of my volume potentiometer on a Bally 6000.

Their design of sticking the volume control on the sound board next to the 1st reel is inane.
There's no room to make and adjustment unless you have hands the width of a needle nose pliers!  :96-

At the same, while trying to kill two birds will one stone - my addition thoughts was
to have the speaker outputs go inline/parallel to a headphone jack so
I can play my machine late at night without awaking my wife.
I hate the idea of sticking cotton socks in the coin tray...

I would carefully remove the volume control from the sound board or look for markings on it, that will tell you the value.
Also they make two types of potentiometers for electtronics
They are linear taper and audio taper (log)
Get a suitable replacement pot or just add wires to it and relocate for easy access.

You can use a stereo headphone jack that has 5 connections to it.

1 is used for the common audio ground, 2 are output from the amplifier/sound board and 2 are for the speakers
The speaker ones are connected to the audio output unless you insert the headphone plug.
the headphone plug when inserted moves the source conductors slightly opening the speaker circuit.
headphone plugs connections are usually labeled:

Tip -as it implies the end conductor
Sleeve - middle conductor. May have more than one, some iPod headphones and camera audio/video cables are examples.
Ring - the conductor closest to the cable/wire.
Tip is left signal
Sleeve is right signal
Ring is ground for both channels

I would suggest you get a headphone jack that you can see the conductors in it.
RadioShack used to have them either totally open 1/4" or  board mount 1/8" versions (clear cover)
You want the wires coming from the sound source going to the conductors that touch the headphone plug when inserted and the speaker wires going to the conductors that are not being touched when the headphones are plugged in.
That way the headphones disconnect the speakers when inserted. and when unplugged the speakers work.
The only thing is most headphones are 32 ohm impedance and the slot could be 2 to 32 ohm, so be careful.

 

Thanks Foster!
Sounds like a good blueprint for a great mod! :89-
I'm thinking of attaching via wiring -  a pot similar to a housed dimmer slider but smaller in size and
mounted directly on the bottom of the door so it's visually inconspicuous.
Whenever I want to adjust the sound with the door closed, I just reach under the door on top
of the coin tray and slide the volume knob to whatever is appropriate at the moment.
The headphone jack could be mounted in the same place but the cord might get in the way of pulling out coins.
I think the headphone would be better located somewhere on the left side of the cabinet towards the front.
Perhaps a little bit behind the door hinges would work fine.
Even coming up through the button panel deck next to the change button
would be good as well or out through the left side of the door.

Did you ever have luck finding a OFF/ON micro switch for the Auto-Play button?
There seems to be millions of micro "momentary" switches but no "Off/On" micro-switches
except for the silver metal switch that goes into a foot pedal for a electric guitar.

i had a similar problem once where i changed optics spliced the bellydoor switch  and it turned out to be one of the wires to the bill door switch was bare and grounding against the cabinet 

I decided to try bipassing my optics and it works great and i found there is actually a plug behind reel 1 that goes to the optic so u dont need to run a wire threw your door. i also noticed if u just take a peice of wire and tuch it to the copper of each optic it connects

If possible can you post a picture of this plug that you found with any details about exact location, marking, etc. It would be nice to document that here for folks who try this in the future...

Thanks :244- and  :259- Karma (actually your first) for sharing what you found.

CaptainHappy :95-
:admin-

It is a 2 pin male and female pair Molex Mini-Fit Jr near the rear of reel 1
Red with white tracer and green wires.

You will connect to the female Mini-Fit Jr
You use the red wire green at that connector is unused for the bypass.

It is near the 2 pin black Molex SL 0.100 male and female connector that has black with yellow tracer and yellow with black tracer (they come from the BV bezel board harness)

IF you follow the wires coming from the door optics as they go along the left side of the machine you can find it very easily.
I have the harness coming from the door disconnected and used a old door optic harness from the vision door harness to make the connection to the available pole of the cherry switch.

For the cabinet side I also had a spare connector that would connect to the machine harness at the optic without modification.
Connect to the green wire, purple wire is unused for the bypass.

Top picture is the door optic connection and door optic connector from door.
it is disconnected since I have the bypass in place.
Bottom picture is the cabinet optic connection with a connector wired to the switch
The Cabinet optic is disconnected since the bypass is in place.

Is this enough documenation for you Captain Happy?

Foster, :259- for adding so much detail. That should help folks that want to do this mod.

Since I am so dense, that may not be enough info for me.... and since you are a "travelling tech" maybe you need to come mod all of my machines! :5- :88- :96- :200- :72- :97- :208- :279- :208-
 :286- :262- :262- :262- :284- :285- :206- :262- :262- :280- :88-

CH :95-

I figured that out about 2 weeks ago while finishing up my friends S2000. I switched the "hot" side of the signal line and not the "ground". I had lots of weird problems because of switching out the "ground" side. I did not know that on the S2000 you just needed to switch the 1 wire. I think on the S+ it has to be the 2 wires and hot=hot and ground=ground. On the S2000 it is "crossed, hot=ground and ground=hot. On the machines where the door is true and the optices work, I left it alone. On others I did the mod, no problems.

The S+ is only one wire as well
since the optics are interchangeable between the S+ and S2000 it is the pointed side of the connectors on the S+ and S2000 that you are connecting.
On the S+ you must unplug the optics or it wont work for some reason. S2000 does not matter.
What you are connecting TTL/CMOS output to a TTL/CMOS input

i forgot to add that you have to have the belly door switch open in order to be able to jump the optics by touching a wire to the metal part of the optics

I don't why you need to do this because my belly door switch is wired permanently "closed" together
and the optical bypass works well utilizing a door's cherry switch?  :128-

you dont need to but if u have optics and dont want to bypass them u can still work with your machine with the door open without spliceing anything sorry i guess i should have started a new post how to temporarily bypass optics

K+ Foster....Cool stuff!

My cherry switch uses the first 2 connections not the first and third for the light as depicted in the drawing.

The Cherry switch is a Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) switch.
The switch is labeled for the neutral position (not pushed in or pulled out - would simulate door closed)
The light uses the common and the Normally Closed connections - light comes on when door is open
Door optic bypass uses the common and Normally Open connections - you can pull the switch out to simulate door closed

Light wired to 1 and 2, or 5 and 6
Door optic wired to 1 and 3, or 4 and 6
That is the way I did my switch

Good catch swantzilla!
hanks for correcting the drawing of the cherry switch.   :89-

This is a piss poor drawing but it works.

The switch has 2 sets of COM, NC NO connections. The cherry switch for the light is connected to COM and NC. Your picture shows the light connected to the NC and NO connections and the optics conneted to the COM and NO connections. I see your poor drawing and raise it with one of my own.

Basically, the cabinet light is not that important but it does look funny if it's on when the door is closed!  :72-
I had my work light connected right but my drawing for that was like Buzz's ...
Without actually thinking about it too much - I must of assumed that it was connected
the same as the optics side of the cherry switch.

Explains how things like the space shuttle blows up... :25-

Bunker  He's right my drawing is wrong as for as the work light.  You can see I spent a tremendous amount of time on it. I think it should rate right up there in the Rembrant class, don't you. I know it's not a      van Gogh, I'm short one finger but I still have both ears.

I recall the original post with you and Foster telling us how to bypass the optics and I got so confussed it took me hours to figure out what the hell you two were doing. Forster is one sharp fellow, but to me he gives out to much information, my old brain has to work to hard.

The way I will word the bypass is. Hook a wire directly from the red/white wire at the door optic to the green wire at the cabinet optic, cut that wire and install a cherry switch at the cut. I can add if you follow the wire harness from the door optic to a area behind and sometimes right below number one reel you will fine a two wire plug, that's where I make the door optic connection. ( it's still red/white wire) Looks neater and saves running the wire along the button wires.

It's always been confusing because IGT uses the white and black wires for the door emitter/cabinet receiver optics -
those colors match NOTHING else on the harness going out to them!!!
The only reason IGT used white and black was so the installers at the factory wouldn't mix up emitter and receiver optics.

I go by the pointy side of the 2-pin Molex connector - which is pin #1.

I have rewired many machines now using the cherry switch with no problems untill recently. I had a machine that started giving me weard errors it would go to accounting menu all by it's self wile in the middle of a game the key switch quit working and was getting a small shock when you tuch the frame. I was tracing the wires from the key switch and realized they use the same plug as the optic at the motherboard. So I unpluged the service light and the problem seemed to go away. so somehow it seems the cherry switch was leaking voltage from the service light into the optic circuit. So I unplugged all my service lights.
Ok so it wasn't actually the service light when I was messing around tracing the wires I just moved them enouf to temporarily stop it from shorting out   

The Service Light is powered by 5V/12-13V Supply in the AC Distribution Center, the 5V is used for the Comm Board there.

1 you could have a power supply leaking 120VAC into your service light circuit,
   I have never felt a shock from the 12V or 13V in the machine
     Machine supply provides 13V and 25V, the small supply mounted on the left end of AC Distribution Box provides 5V and 12V
     5V goes to the Comm board for the TTL and CMOS logic.
2 The Cherry switch in that machine is dirty or something has broken in it, I would replace it with a spare one if you can
    Depending where the machine was installed originally you might have one mounted so is activated by the cash can, if so it was wired to a external security system.
 

You guys rock.
Thanks for a very entertaining and educational thread!!!
Good work and kudos to all.

Have you guys considered making this a sticky?

uh...it's been a sticky since July 13th/ 2010...

oops,  confused with s+ section

Just did the s2000 optics bypass thanks to all on this one, I will never go back to optics on these machines  :131- :137-

Damn  Dave it don't take you all day to herd cows 3 hours does it !!!!

it only took about 15 min, had to wait for the solder gun to heat up,  and it took 2 days for me to post i got it done  :208- :208-

Just thought I would share something. I was shoping out an s2000 today and I almost forgot to splice the belly door switch, so I droped the belly door, with the main door closed and power on, and to my suprise no door open M. Checked the switch and it was still hooked up. Unpluged the switch still no door open M. I looked at another machine and found the same results. When you bypass the optic it disables the belly door switch.


 

i have had that problem ! one of the two wires on the BV door sw, was shorting on the frame of the door , couople of strands of wire got out , you can hardly see it . the cause is the BV door is slamed shut so many times it frays the wires . hope this helps !

Brian,
Your tip about the plug behind reel #1 save the day. I had a cut wire about an inch from the plug.  THANKS

LOL, way to old of a post to add anything to. My bad.  :25-

Just about everything has been asked and done in the past  :72-
...only problem is trying to find everything using the search box.  :37-

Hi,

I need to do this. I posted this a couple of months ago but I never got to it. I have more time now and would really like to get this machine working.

I think I understand how to do this. It does not look real hard but I do NOT want to screw it up!! LOL.

Looking at your diagram along with then other posts I will assume I can take apart the connector behind reel # 1 and simply insert a wire into the open end of connector at the red wire and run wire over to cherry switch, install a tab and make connection? I can do the same for the green wire, Insert wire into connector leave open at other end and splice into purple wire at cabinet purple wire and wire nut together?. Run another wire into cabinet green wire, install tab and connect to cherry switch, just like you show.

Am I missing anything thing here? Do you happen to know the wire size and tab size? If not, I will take sample with me to the store.

Thanks in advance for any other info that may be needed. I just want to make sure I do this right. And thanks for the great post you made on this.

We did this for the first time a coup,e weeks ago by following these directions, done in less than 15 minutes? You will thank yourself if you are having optics troubles.

Thats great. Yes, I need to do this. From what i posted previously about this it sounded like it was the optics.

The big question I have is about making secure connections at the wire splices and connectors i.e. do I need to go to the trouble of making or getting the plastic connectors and so forth. I do not have much in spare parts or just parts since I never really do much of this type of repair

I can ask my hubby, but I know he didnt spend much time on it. I do believe he did it with simple wire splices (like twist and tape, lol). he was about to shoot the machine, so in a last ditch effort we tried the bypass before throwing the machine in the dumpster, lol.

They are the 1/4" spade connectors, just use your smart phone to take a picture of the ones going to your buttons
They are the same size just get the straight ones for 20-22 gauge wire. The ones on your buttons are the right-angle versions.

for the connecting to the machine harness itself, unless you have a electronics parts store near you getting the Molex housing and connectors is going require an order from mouser.com or newark.com
Or after you have tested that bypassing the optics fixes your issue and you do not plan on going back to optics you can use the connector cut off the cabinet optic for making a neat connection to the cabinet harness and do the same for the 2 pin white connector behind reel 1. just be sure you cut the right portion of the door harness and optic and do not cut any part of the actual cabinet harnesses.

Thanks for the heads up Foster. I'll post back after I attempt fixing. Sure hope that fixes it. I am missing playing this machine!!

I just bare about 3/8 of a inch of wire, stick it into the plug and then plug the other plug back together. If the wire your using is to fat to get them plugged back together, give some of the strands a hair cut. Do the same thing on the latch side and just leave the optics on the machine.  Never ever cut a wire if there is anyway you don't have to.

OK, I think I have this. I do want to be sure about this so, here is what I did. I will give as many details as possible. It may help someone else down the road (if I have it right that is)

I followed Stay outs instructions. They were the easiest for me to follow.

Door Optics: I removed the reels and I found the plug behind reel # 1 as described by Foster (thank you). I disconnected this plug and Inserted wires into the open end of plug that runs back towards the door (that is correct right?) I inserted a Red wire to red side of this plug, attached a tab on the other end and plugged into # 3 slot (from bottom) at Cherry switch. I install green wire from green side of plug and run across to cabinet optic and insert into purple side connector at Cabinet optic. Does this sound correct so far? 

Cabinet Optics: The cabinet optic wires on my machine are Red & Black which plugs into a connector that has Green and Purple wires. I pulled apart this plug. I have already inserted green wire from door optic into the purple side of this Cabinet optic. I then run a short Green wire from Green side of connector, install a tab and plug into # 1 slot at Cherry switch. Does this sound correct so far? 

I assume I just leave the other ends of plugs at door and cabinet optics like they are right (disconnected). I have it all connected and ready to go. I have power off completely. I am hoping someone can look at the attached photos and let me know if it looks OK or not.

OK, I think I have this. I do want to be sure about this so, here is what I did. I will give as many details as possible. It may help someone else down the road (if I have it right that is)

I followed Stay outs instructions. They were the easiest for me to follow.

Door Optics: I removed the reels and I found the plug behind reel # 1 as described by Foster (thank you). I disconnected this plug and Inserted wires into the open end of plug that runs back towards the door (that is correct right?) I inserted a Red wire to red side of this plug, attached a tab on the other end and plugged into # 3 slot (from bottom) at Cherry switch. I install green wire from green side of plug and run across to cabinet optic and insert into purple side connector at Cabinet optic. Does this sound correct so far? 

Cabinet Optics: The cabinet optic wires on my machine are Red & Black which plugs into a connector that has Green and Purple wires. I pulled apart this plug. I have already inserted green wire from door optic into the purple side of this Cabinet optic. I then run a short Green wire from Green side of connector, install a tab and plug into # 1 slot at Cherry switch. Does this sound correct so far? 

I assume I just leave the other ends of plugs at door and cabinet optics like they are right (disconnected). I have it all connected and ready to go. I have power off completely. I am hoping someone can look at the attached photos and let me know if it looks OK or not.

Here are 2 photo I was not able to attach.

I wanted to describe the photos but could not add anymore just like my first post. Anyways, top photo shows door optic connections. bottom photo shows cabinet side connections. Does this all look right? Thanks for help guys. Y'all are great!!

Ok, sorry for the double pictures. I thought it was not going because Explorer could not display page.   

Would this bypass method work on an igt slant top?

I must not have outlined this well enough. Not one person replied. Anyways, I went ahead and fired it up. It did NOT work. I was thinking the connection points were the issue. I messed around with those some more - No go on that either.

I finally put the wires back to original state. That did nothing as I expected (coin-in error & open door) I just keep messing around with it like opening and closing door, putting quarters in, they would fall back into the tray. After about 15 minutes of this all the sudden the machine fired up. It sounded like it finished a game?.

 I played a couple of hands. Put a few quarters in, it took the quarters ok. I put a ticket in. It would not take it because the Tito did not fire up properly. I then put a dollar in it took it and credits showed up. I played a couple of hands and something ran, I think it was the dollar bill device. I thought it was odd it took it so long to run it. Anyways I played for about 45 minutes and got the same old "coin-in error". I opened and closed the door that fixed it. Played a while coin-in error again. Open door fixes it. Play awhile coin-in error. This time I take the key unlock door and just move or slide the latch a little without opening door at all, put latch back in place and re-lock. Coin-in error gone. I played the machine for about 2 hours without any issues???

So, it is NOT the optics right? If I / you think it is not the optics what do I look at next? This dollar bill thing was weird. Could it be that? If anyone has any ideas where to take this next I would really appreciate it. I am also willing to pay someone over the phone for their time. I would need someone that really knows how to trouble shoot.

Thanks in advance for any help I can get. This machine is driving me crazier. BTH, I fired up machine this morning and played for a bit. All god so far this morning. The question is: How long before I get the dreaded "coin-in / open door errors?
 

T  Of course it didn't work, you ran the electrical flow ( RED wire ) back to the door optic, it's got to go the other way. Try what I said in reply #62.

The below is from a old post.
The way I will word the bypass is. Hook a wire directly from the red/white wire at the door optic to the green wire at the cabinet optic, cut that wire and install a cherry switch at the cut. I can add if you follow the wire harness from the door optic to a area behind and sometimes right below number one reel you will fine a two wire plug, that's where I make the door optic connection. ( it's still red/white wire) Looks neater and saves running the wire along the button wires

I don't know why your getting a coin error but try adjusting the door optics.. If you don't want to put a mark on your machine, put some tape on the machine and mark the tape. Put a mark that lines up with the optics, door and cabinet sides. Close door and marks need to line up. If they don't, adjust the cabnet side up or down until they do line up.

Yes the bypass will work on a S+ machine.

Thanks Buzz, but I am really missing the boat here. I ran the wires like stated in Stay outs diagram I think? What do mean cut in a cherry switch? Is the cherry switch not installed already?     Your directions: Hook a wire directly from the red/white wire at the door optic to the green wire at the cabinet optic, cut that wire and install a cherry switch at the cut.  What do you mean cut that wire and install a cherry switch?  I am missing this part.

Either you are not explaining it where I get it or I am one blind guy. I will opt for the later since I openly admit this type of repair is new to me. Any chance you could draw a diagram of what I am doing wrong? Hey, a video would be even better. I am likely asking to much. Maybe one of our good members could do a video on this some day. I would likely help out lots of people. If a picture speaks a thousand words imagine what a video can do. Maybe the new subscription magazine could do that. What a way to get them really going on their second issue.

I tried adjusting the door optics previously. I got nowhere with that (again new rookie) I have to wonder if the door optics are really the issue. The machine is working just fine now with no apparent repair being performed. After the last coin error / door error the machine stayed good for about 5 hours last night. I turned it off at breaker. I fired up machine at 7:00AM and so far no issues. I don't get it, weird.

When I said to cut the wire and install a cherry switch, the cherry switch is allready installed, just install a couple of terminals at the cut and stick them onto the cherry switch.

If you were to run a wire from the red/white wire to the green wire at the cabnet optic the optics are by passed, we just use the cherry switch #1 because it's there and #2 it gives you a way to make the machine think you are opening and closing the door to clear a error if you have one.

I don't think your optics are bad, I've never seen a set that worked sometimes. Just a thought, normally when the optics are out of adjustment and a game is playing you will sometimes get a reel tilt error and not a coin error. On a S 2000 a coin error 9 times out of 10 will have nothing to do with a coin, so try this with the power off pull the IO out a inch or so and shove it back in, if this is a 10 button ( play deck ) do this to both IOs. ( Can't hurt and it will make you feel like you did something )

A after thought, on a S 2000 if you do get a tilt ( error ) each time you open and close the door one and only one error will be cleared. ( If you have more than one error open and close the latch 3 or 4 times ) You are getting a coin error and by moving the door latch the machine thinks you are opening and closing the door and that is what is clearing your coin error.

Thanks for the info Buzz. I did the IO thing a number of times in the past and a few times in the last few days. It does not do anything. The machine ran Friday night ok. All day yesterday (shut it off @ 11:00PM last night. Fired it back up this Moring and got 2 coin in errors right off. I was able to clear those easily.

I agree that the optics are likely not the issue however, I don't have a clue what is wrong. I don't have a clue what I did to fix it either. I just simply keep messing with it and it just decided to go. The only real odd thing that stands out to me is the way the dollar bill device acted when I inserted one (it took it a little bit to fully run it, it seems like).

The only other odd thing is the Tito device I have Installed does not fire up properly all the time. I have talked with Jim @ Better Slots about this (the firing up part). I have three Tito's and this machine is the only one that does not fire up properly all the time (I have to disconnect power or USB cord and reboot. The other two always fire up without a hitch. Any chance this could be it? I don't think so but maybe some else could chime if one way or the other?

It is a pretty madding issue because it will get to the point where I cannot do anything with it. It sat for the last 2 months completely off. I would gladly pay someone to come look at it but I don't think there is anybody in my neck of the woods that I could call (that I know of).

Anyways, thanks for the help. I'll see what happens.

I don't do TITO so I'm no help there. One thought would be to bypass the optics ( don't hook up the cherry switch ) and with the door open you can wiggle around the wiring and see if you can get the coin error that way. If this is a 10 button deck or one that has the 5/9 line display at the side of the reel glass, take a real good look at the connections to that display. That 5 or 9 line display being bad will give you a coin error.

I can try that (not connecting the cherry switch) just not sure how to do that.

I looked at the connections to the display. I do not see anything that stands out. I just got home a bit ago and had another coin in error which cleared easily last the last 2.

Can't remember if I ever posted this before.  I think this is a little different than other methods posted, but I like it...seems easier to me.  You can download the PDF below and give it read.  Hope it helps.

I didnt cut any wires on my machine
unplugged the door optic behind reel one and the cabinet optic at the optic
the connectors I needed came from a removed vision harness.

Foster, I do the same thing. I don't like cutting and splicing into original wire harnesses. I have been doing this to my machines for some time now and have completely eliminated all the false door open errors caused by sagging doors or doors being bumped.
I make up the jumper harness with the correct components and use Molex crimpers on the pins for proper trouble free connections. If anyone needs a jumper harness you can PM me. I'll post pictures tonight.

I will want a couple sets of those. I will PM you after you post pictures. That great you are doing that!!

T

Here is a picture of proper tooling and harness.

Nice, just to clarify, the connector on the left connects behind reels # 1 door optic plug. The wire runs over to the cabinet optic connector and plugs in. The other short wire runs to the Cherry switch. Is that 2 spade connectors on the end or one spade connector and something else. It would need 2 spade connectors right?

Two female spade connectors is what you'll need

If you look top right Neon already has spade connectors installed.

T Now forget everything you have ever read about bypassing door optics.  Try this using only one piece of wire about 5 feet long ( you don't need welding cable 26/28 ga is plenty big enough ) OK now remove about 3/8 of a inch of insulation on both ends of this new wire. Unplug the door optics, stick the bare end of the wire into the optic plug hole that has the RED wire and plug the cptic back together. do the same thing with the other end of the wire at the cabnet optics but this time it goes into the hole with the Green wire.

Your optics are now bypassed  Now if you want to get fancy, cut your new wire close to the cabinet optic but make sure the wire will be long enough to reach the cherry switch. Put a spade terminal wher you cut your new wire and slide the spade onto the cherry switch. Do the same thing with the other end of the cut wire and put in on the other terminal of the cherry switch.

T- ya, it does look funky in my picture as the second spade connector is on its side.
But yes, two spade connectors