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Author Topic: Igt S2000 sound problem - humming and static  (Read 136165 times)
stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #150 on: April 04, 2012, 05:36:41 PM »

Very unusual sound problem indeed Buzz...
How it was related to the WBA installation is beyond me.

The only thing I can think of is that you pinched a tray speaker wire
as they sometimes run down on the right side of the machine?
For the most part, I've seen the tray speaker wires run down on the left.
Re-installing the bill acceptor back again the second time missed the wire?
I don't know... Scratch Head 2
Just a fluke intermittent amp/speaker connection jarred by opening/closing of the door perhaps...?
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Triple_Ding
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« Reply #151 on: April 04, 2012, 06:48:14 PM »

I hereby vote myself, Knucklehead of the day,, . .too much Easter chocolate. . .
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Triple_Ding
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« Reply #152 on: April 26, 2012, 02:20:11 AM »

I just sent my MM Lite board back asking that it be replaced with the REV. B board. I was understood this was the fix. S2000 machine.
Anyone for the real fix for the problem ?  Would like to get this fixed one way or the other.
Thanks guys
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cowboygames
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« Reply #153 on: April 26, 2012, 03:51:27 AM »

Revision B doesn't refer to a multimedia board, it refers to a 504 B MPU board. Static in the speakers is best resolved with resistors in line on each of the 6 speaker wires
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« Reply #154 on: April 26, 2012, 09:35:28 AM »

Revision B doesn't refer to a multimedia board, it refers to a 504 B MPU board. Static in the speakers is best resolved with resistors in line on each of the 6 speaker wires

 Agree with Post COWBOY IS CORRECT.
FORD
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Triple_Ding
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« Reply #155 on: April 26, 2012, 09:42:28 AM »

I just messed up then,...I thought there was a post a while back that said the fix for the hum/buzz was a "REV B" on the Multimedia Lite ll board and that it was fixed internally by IGT.
Please advise, as if so, I made a mistake.
And, thanks again.
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knagl
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« Reply #156 on: April 26, 2012, 11:06:24 AM »

As cowboygames just said, the "B" revision that fixed some of the sound issues was on the main MPU board, not the MML II board. If you don't have one, you'll want a 504 rev. B MPU board for your machine.
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« Reply #157 on: April 26, 2012, 12:23:53 PM »

Can you post a pic of sticker location? My motherboard is a REV A,...Stepper controller board is a REV A p/n 75510502
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Buzz
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« Reply #158 on: April 26, 2012, 12:52:34 PM »

It's been a while but as I recall it was one resistors per speaker and it went in the white wire that has a color tracer. Started out using 47 ohm resistors but they cut the volume so low I ended up using 22 ohm. They seemed to cure the noise problem and still have decent volume.

I don't think the motherboard had anything to do with it. There are a bunch of threads on this problem.
« Last Edit: April 26, 2012, 01:11:21 PM by Buzz » Logged

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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #159 on: April 26, 2012, 01:53:00 PM »

I might add that the amplifier boards are not all exactly giving out the same outputs either.
I have two of them and both give out varying degrees of sound.
You have to play around with different resistors to get your sound correct on the white wires -
including the tray speaker wire, to get the cleaner, bassy/treble sound.
 
I got mine sounding okay with 47ohm's on the topbox speakers and a 10ohm on the tray speaker but...
I'm hard of hearing so don't believe a word I'm saying...  rotflmao


The best way to achieve better sound is to wire in an audio equalizer and adjust to taste...
it's a little overboard though....better off just getting a 504 B REV. MPU board.... bust gut laughing

For kicks, I wired in a jack to the amp board and plugged in a good set of headphones.
Sounds beautiful!  yes
I'm thinking of expanding this idea to the back of my chair headrest -
like the way they do it in the casinos via a wireless Nady system.... Tongue Out

I can't think of any better way to get the full surround sound effect!
« Last Edit: April 26, 2012, 02:00:50 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
cowboygames
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« Reply #160 on: April 26, 2012, 02:30:09 PM »

Buzz, I had the best luck with 10ohm resistors on each lead. If the noise is coming through the ground then it needs to be protected also. The thought here being it could an AC ripple or even DC noise back feeding through that way. Though I'd lean more towards DC noise based on how it acts. Same cure either way unless a guy put filter caps on the feed from the MPU, which might could work, haven't tried it
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Foster
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« Reply #161 on: April 26, 2012, 09:40:45 PM »

I had the best luck with 504B or 1270 Enhanced MPU
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« Reply #162 on: April 26, 2012, 10:45:36 PM »

I put 504B in all of my games.
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cowboygames
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« Reply #163 on: April 26, 2012, 10:50:17 PM »

You guys are right, 504B or 1270 are the best options, resistors are much more cost effective is the only argument here
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Buzz
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« Reply #164 on: April 26, 2012, 11:10:09 PM »

Yaaa It's a proven fact you win more often with 504 boards !!
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Triple_Ding
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« Reply #165 on: April 26, 2012, 11:20:10 PM »

OK kids, . .me here is setting off on a journey to fix this once and for all. Finding the source of the signal, where and how it is transfering, and the ultimate fix. Stay tuned..."The Fix" . . .soon..waiting to get my MMLite ll back..  (putting on hunting gear) . . .on a mission..
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knagl
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« Reply #166 on: April 27, 2012, 01:59:56 AM »

My motherboard is a REV A,...Stepper controller board is a REV A p/n 75510502

You're looking in the right place -- you have a 502 rev. A board (the last three numbers plus the revision letter).

In the interest of clarity, that's your MPU board.  The "motherboard" is a fixed board in the back of the machine that the MPU board plugs into.  While we know what you're talking about here, it's generally good practice to use the correct terms when describing problems with your machine in the future to avoid any confusion.  yes   Professor
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Triple_Ding
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« Reply #167 on: April 28, 2012, 02:48:27 AM »

10-4. I have all my docs in order now. Manuals, wiring diagrams, and schematics.  I am missing one, the power supply schematic, is there such a thing or did I overlook it ?
I'm almost going to borrow a nice osciliscope and with some help one reading the power supply schematic, and me probing with the scope, going to track down the source of the audio crossover that is causing the hum/buzz.
It can be done. We have the technology.
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Foster
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« Reply #168 on: April 28, 2012, 04:48:19 AM »

The power supplies are made by two or more vendors.
I can not remember if IGT released any schematics for all of them or not.

Note: the static, buzz, or hum is not from the power supply itself.
If it was my 504B or Enhanced (1270) MPU would not fix it

The 50x series of MPU has 2 separate 5V supply sections on it.
They are wired in parallel and both have to function for the board to work.
I cant remember if the 1270 has two as well or not.

It has to do with how the audio traces pick up noise from another trace that runs near them.
Think about how close ASUS, Gigabyte and others place the HD Audio chip and amp to the rear audio jacks and front audio header on PC motherboards

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Triple_Ding
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« Reply #169 on: April 28, 2012, 10:54:13 AM »

Another Option:  Has anyone ever inspected the Rev A and Rev B boards and done a comparison and see which component was changed/modified ? I wouldn't think IGT would have paid to re-engineer the complete board. I guess doing an overlay of schematics/ diagrams would pinpoint the change pretty quick.
If all else fails the 47 resistors will have to work. 47K ohm x 1/2W x ?% (or post complete resistor spec)
Thank you in advance
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cowboygames
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« Reply #170 on: April 28, 2012, 12:12:00 PM »

You need to go back through and reread the responses to this post. It's 10-47 ohm resistors across each of the six wires going to the 3 speakers. Half watt is sufficient
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Triple_Ding
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« Reply #171 on: May 07, 2012, 11:37:27 PM »

Still haven't got my board back from RM Slots . . .going on 3 weeks....We'll send it. . .we'll send it. . ."dysfunctional" . . .
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« Reply #172 on: May 03, 2013, 10:57:02 AM »

I was working on a DD delux with 502 board backlit reels and dsv 42 and getting the loud hum from both speakers and I tried unplugging the backlit controller as someone else had suggested and the hum went away. Then just for the hell of it I unplugged each reel and as I did the hum gradually decreased so then I decieded to take out the upper and lower buls from each reel since they aren't really being used anyway and there is still a little bit of a hum but it is drasticly reduced.   
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