Fooling coin comparators?

[MarkC]

Sorry to be a royal pain, how do I get the optic board off the machine and what do I snip off?

UPDATE:  Never mind, found the screws under the wiring connector. 

Going to give it a try now!

Mark

[Jim]

Mark,  I remove these components as a standard practice, never have ANY coin in problems.

I also use a standard Sp chip in all the games ( except for haywire, double wild etc.)  this way programming is simple. I use a Sp731. all tests can be preformed from the buttons, you can move forward and reverse thru the menu using the buttons and not have to use the jackpot reset key for anything.  really easy!!

what do I lose, faster count up speed on credits, tokenization,  perhaps, but for the ease of use of the 731 its a good trade off. besides, I have never been in a casino that used that feature. most people like putting in coins and hearing them clang out into the coin tray.

all that being said, if MarkC has the wrong encoder in the optic assembly he will still have intermittent acceptance.

Jim

[MarkC]

SUCCESS!!!  Thank you very much!

Removed the Q2 and now it will credit any nickel I throw at it, even American ones. I had a whole bag of "reject" nickels that now work fine.  I really appreciate the expert help.  Please let me know if/how I can return the favor.

Mark

[stayouttadabunker]

Sure! Donate some of those reject nickels to the NLG website! 

[poppo]

<Slight hijack>

Currently on my unmodified 3 coin machine, if I drop in a 4th coin, it falls through to the tray. If one removes the solenoid/rake, will the 4th coin go to credit or just drop into the hopper? I'm asking because I have been toying with an idea.  

[MarkC]

poppo: I just gave it a try. The extra coin(s) will drop into the hopper, since they have no choice where to go. They don't cause an extra credit, however.  Instead the machine spits out the extra coin(s) after the spin.  So it won't steal the extra money.


stayouttadabunker: I'm going to make a donation right now

Mark

[poppo]

poppo: I just gave it a try. The extra coin(s) will drop into the hopper, since they have no choice where to go. They don't cause an extra credit, however.  Instead the machine spits out the extra coin(s) after the spin.  So it won't steal the extra money.

Thanks. Not what I was hoping for, but saved me the touble of checking it myself.

[stayouttadabunker]

Poppo,
Throw in 6 coins as fast as possible...see if the error code [23] pops up.
That means "too many excessive coins" and your chip presently does not support extra coins.
Stick in a SP1137 Montana credits chip?
If this is an s2000 machine - get an SB chip that supports all credits to the display instead?

[poppo]

Poppo,
Throw in 6 coins as fast as possible...see if the error code [23] pops up.

I don't have anything modified. No matter how fast I drop them in, the extras just fall into the tray.

[stayouttadabunker]

Exactly what chip is installed in your machine?
That may help us here - help YOU...lol

[poppo]

Exactly what chip is installed in your machine?
That may help us here - help YOU...lol

Haywire Deluxe
SP873
SS6418

[stayouttadabunker]

SP873 is a Type 2 chip...
SP1137 w/Montana credits won't work.
You'd get an "Incompatible" type of error code on the display I'm afraid.

[MarkC]

Sorry to hijack your hijack... The coin optics board on the S2000 looks very different.. practically flat except for a Q1 and Q2.. Is there a way to modify these boards also?

[reho33]

Another suggestion: just use an Imonex coin processor, no electricity required and it should take all you throw at it , even with slight variations. You will have to have to do the Q2 mod as indicated above if you do this. The only thing you lose is the ability to switch coins ever again unless you re attach Q2 and go back to a regular comparitor.

[stayouttadabunker]

Another suggestion: just use an Imonex coin processor, no electricity required and it should take all you throw at it , even with slight variations. You will have to have to do the Q2 mod as indicated above if you do this. The only thing you lose is the ability to switch coins ever again unless you re attach Q2 and go back to a regular comparitor.

Or...have a back-up set of coin-in optic boards! 

[Buzz]

Another suggestion: just use an Imonex coin processor, no electricity required and it should take all you throw at it , even with slight variations. You will have to have to do the Q2 mod as indicated above if you do this. The only thing you lose is the ability to switch coins ever again unless you re attach Q2 and go back to a regular comparitor.

This will not work with a  S 2000  I don't remember exactly how I knew this BUT.  I just went in and with some paper blocked the rake open. leaving the wires going to the Comparator unpluged, dropped a quarter in and got a "Coin in Error"   The coin did go to the hopper, like with the rake open it had someplace else to go. It seems to me the CC has to send a pulse to the main board or some BS like that.  CRS strikes  again

[Foster]

Buzz you are correct the S2000 coin comparitor either toggles a coin in/good signal to high or low.
I am thinking it is high to low and back just like the coin in optics would when a coin blocks the optics.

I will run a test in the next few days to see which it is.

Update: I belieave it goes 0 to 1 but it happens so fast my meter can display it.

[ROCKET]

 

After reading this entire thread from the get go ..

WHY NOT USE A THING CALLED COMMON SENSE ??

instead of ruining coin comp and bending back the rake or removing parts of it etc
all for a diff size Canada nickel to U.S nickel or any other nickel size coin !!

just buy 1000 quarter tokens and coin head if needed ?? and black plastic coin optic if needed ..
and .25 pinwheel for hopper if needed ..

IT WOULD BE LESS EXPENSIVE TO BUY  ALL THAT ABOVE IF NEEDED --THAN TO BUY A  X-FACTOR COIN COMP.

JUST  RUN QUARTER TOKENS -THAT WAY YOUR NOT TYING UP REAL MONEY IN HOPPER OF ONE OR MORE MACHINES !!

COMMON SENSE I FOUND IS NOT USED TO OFTEN ON >>SOME QUESTIONS <<<OR SOME ADVISE GIVEN ON THIS FORUM .

I OF COURSE DID NOT POST THIS TO START FIGHTS --JUST SOLVE A SIMPLE PROBLEM --THAT IS COST EFFECTIVE IN LONG RUN !!

Rocket

HAPPY TURKEY DAY TO ALL !!!

[stayouttadabunker]

lol...I had suggested that he switch to quarters but YOU'RE the one
who suggested (Reply #11) that he get an X-Factor CC...!!!
And I backed you up with a post shortly thereafter monsieur! ( Reply #14)

Again, I agree with you however...change to quarters if it's just
for a rec room but he wants to use  screwed up Canadian nickels...
He's not ruining the coin comparator or bending anything.
All he did was snip off a Q2 IC component from the coin-in optics board.

We were trying to help him achieve that  goal.
Not save him money....

[Jim]

let me clear up some facts about this modification and why  it came to be.   about 15 years ago when slots were making there way into the home market they often were shipped from the casino with no coin comparators in them. they were expensive back in the day and casinos kept them in house.(or they were sold overseas at a great profit) as you have found out in this thread the machine does interact with the coin comp., by removing ONE component on the optic board it removes that interaction. That's all it does!!!, as a by product of this it improves the acceptance of coins. by acceptance I mean that the coins that get to the optics will in fact generate a credit on the machine, pretty much to the tune of 99.99%. (providing that all the correct parts are in place)
 You can still use the cc16d, it will accept coins as it was designed, it will reject coins after the proper amount of coins have been credited, 2c 0r 3c etc. the machine will play as it always has, the only thing you will notice is an improvement of the coins that are credited-ed to the machine. ALL MACHINE FUNCTIONS REMAIN THE SAME--NOTHING IS AFFECTED AS FAR AS GAME PLAY IS CONCERNED.( AGAIN if your coin comp. is working as it should).
     the best replacement for the cc16d was a coin mech made by IMONEX. unlike its predecessors, it has no moving parts and requires no voltage to operate, strictly mechanical, a direct replacement, no modifications same physical size etc.  and they only cost 9.95. and they would accept coins sizes from .900 up to and including .984 tokens and yes it would accept a U.S. quarter. so you could see the advantage. very few jams,takes quarters and tokens, don't have to change sample coin, it was a win, win . 
     you can change back an forth between an  IMONEX and a cc16d  without having to do anything else.(even with Q-2 removed)                                       so for a cost of NOTHING  you can  improve the operation of your machine, If you are having these issues.

Hope this helps

Jim

[poppo]

After reading this entire thread from the get go ..

WHY NOT USE A THING CALLED COMMON SENSE ??

instead of ruining coin comp and bending back the rake or removing parts of it etc
all for a diff size Canada nickel to U.S nickel or any other nickel size coin !!

just buy 1000 quarter tokens and coin head if needed ?? and black plastic coin optic if needed ..
and .25 pinwheel for hopper if needed ..

IT WOULD BE LESS EXPENSIVE TO BUY  ALL THAT ABOVE IF NEEDED --THAN TO BUY A  X-FACTOR COIN COMP.

JUST  RUN QUARTER TOKENS -THAT WAY YOUR NOT TYING UP REAL MONEY IN HOPPER OF ONE OR MORE MACHINES !!

COMMON SENSE I FOUND IS NOT USED TO OFTEN ON >>SOME QUESTIONS <<<OR SOME ADVISE GIVEN ON THIS FORUM .

I OF COURSE DID NOT POST THIS TO START FIGHTS --JUST SOLVE A SIMPLE PROBLEM --THAT IS COST EFFECTIVE IN LONG RUN !!

Rocket

Not everyone wants to run tokens. Maybe if he has friends over he wants them to use real money and doesn't mind if it pays out.

Personally, if I wanted to use tokens, I would have bought a toy slot machine.

[ROCKET]

After reading this entire thread from the get go ..

WHY NOT USE A THING CALLED COMMON SENSE ??

instead of ruining coin comp and bending back the rake or removing parts of it etc
all for a diff size Canada nickel to U.S nickel or any other nickel size coin !!

just buy 1000 quarter tokens and coin head if needed ?? and black plastic coin optic if needed ..
and .25 pinwheel for hopper if needed ..

IT WOULD BE LESS EXPENSIVE TO BUY  ALL THAT ABOVE IF NEEDED --THAN TO BUY A  X-FACTOR COIN COMP.

JUST  RUN QUARTER TOKENS -THAT WAY YOUR NOT TYING UP REAL MONEY IN HOPPER OF ONE OR MORE MACHINES !!

COMMON SENSE I FOUND IS NOT USED TO OFTEN ON >>SOME QUESTIONS <<<OR SOME ADVISE GIVEN ON THIS FORUM .

I OF COURSE DID NOT POST THIS TO START FIGHTS --JUST SOLVE A SIMPLE PROBLEM --THAT IS COST EFFECTIVE IN LONG RUN !!

Rocket

Not everyone wants to run tokens. Maybe if he has friends over he wants them to use real money and doesn't mind if it pays out.

Personally, if I wanted to use tokens, I would have bought a toy slot machine.

WELL WHEN YOU HAVE A A COLLECTION OF 100 PLUS SLOTS AS  I HAVE ..

ITS ONLY COMMON SENSE TO USE TOKENS !!

BECAUSE I RUN EVERY MACHINE I HAVE EXCEPT IGT --I-GAMES ON 1.00 TOKENS ..THE I GAMES I RUN ON NICKEL TOKENS

I HAVE NO PROBLEMS PATTING MYSELF ON MY BACK AND SAY THAT I AM QUITE WELL OFF IN THE MONEY DEPARTMENT .. I  RETIRED BEFORE 50 YRS OLD .

 BUT TO USE REAL 1.00 IKE U.S. COINS IN A HOPPER OF A 1.00 UPRIGHT  OR SLANT TOP MACHINE -WHICH SHOULD HAVE
 400 TOKENS OR REAL COINS  AS A RULE ..

 I WOULD BE TYING UP  TWENTY THOUSAND BUCKS OF REAL COIN MONEY ON JUST 50 SLOTS ALONE .

>>>>>>IS THAT COMMON SENSE <<<<<<?? >>>>>>>>>I THINK NOT <<<<
PLUS REAL COINS HAVE A HABIT OF DOING A DISAPEARING ACT OVER TIME EVEN IF NICKELS OR QUARTERS IN MACHINE .


75% PLUS CASINO'S RUN THERE OWN TOKEN DESIGN --I GUESS WHEN YOUR AT A CASINO USING THERE TOKENS YOUR PLAYING A TOY SLOT ?? .

1.00 TOKEN OR COIN MACHINES CAN BE PURCASED LESS FROM THE GET GO!!AND YOU WLL HAVE LESS COIN JAMS  ON LARGER SIZE COINS --THATS A FACT ..

SO IF HE WANTS TO PLAY REAL COIN AND PAYOUT REAL COIN HE BETTER HAVE A GAMING LIC. BECAUSE THAT IS  AGAINST THE
LAW TO HAVE A PLAY & PAY SLOTMACHINE  WITH REAL MONEY  IN YOUR HOME ..

[poppo]

75% PLUS CASINO'S RUN THERE OWN TOKEN DESIGN --I GUESS WHEN YOUR AT A CASINO USING THERE TOKENS YOUR PLAYING A TOY SLOT ?? .[/color

75%? I lived in CA for many, many years and went to Vegas more times than I can count. None of the casinos used tokens (before they started going to tickets).

SO IF HE WANTS TO PLAY REAL COIN AND PAYOUT REAL COIN HE BETTER HAVE A GAMING LIC. BECAUSE THAT IS  AGAINST THE LAW TO HAVE A PLAY & PAY SLOTMACHINE  WITH REAL MONEY  IN YOUR HOME

  That's all I can say to that.

The point is, that just because YOU want to use tokens does not mean eveyone else does. And that does not mean it's not using 'common sense' if they choose not to.

[ROCKET]

well i guess what i posted ..made no common sense to one member ?

plus  to say when casnio's  ran coin they all ran real coin ??? get real !!

you must of lived a sheltered  casino life . because i also collect casino tokens of all denomiations nickel --quarter -1.00 etc

I  have hundreds of them from west coast to the east coast .. all tokens
not real coin currency .. so i guess those were all toy casnio's lol

[poppo]

well i guess what i posted ..made no common sense to one member ?

plus  to say when casnio's  ran coin they all ran real coin ??? get real !!

you must of lived a sheltered  casino life . because i also collect casino tokens of all denomiations nickel --quarter -1.00 etc

I  have hundreds of them from west coast to the east coast .. all tokens
not real coin currency .. so i guess those were all toy casnio's lol

Chill dude.  You are the one who is accusing people of not using common sense just because they want to use their machine as it was designed.

I personally don't care how many tokens you have collected. I spent enough time in Vegas to know that they did not use them there. So your 75% number got pulled out of the air or somewhere else.