S+ bill validator won't cycle on

[bkbargins4u]

I just picked up a Coral Reef S+ machine.  I replaced the battery, did a ram clear, and a den om and BB set.  I had one problem after I removed the den om/BB chip and reinstalled the game chip.  When I turned the machine back on I did receive a "61" in the display, I then pressed the white button but never got "61.....1", it just went blank.  The reels starting spinning a few seconds later.  I closed the door, turned the jackpot reset, and the machine reinitialized.  The BB never cycled, but the machine plays fine with coins.  I replaced the BB power supply and that wasn't it.  I removed the plug from the BB power supply to the machine power supply.  I put the red lead from my multimeter where the red would have been, and the black lead where the black wire would have been.  My meter is set on 20 DCV, and I'm getting a reading that fluctuates between .2 and .6.  Is it safe to assume the 12V on machine power supply is bad?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.              

[stayouttadabunker]

I need to ask of you, what in the world is a "BB set" ? 

[bkbargins4u]

Sorry it is a typo, it is supposed to be BV (Bill Validator)

[Foster]

IF you have the DBV-145 or 200 in your machine the power to the head and transport is the 6 pin connector on the left side of the head.
On my power supply the wire colors are red and brown.
You want the top and bottom pin of the connector that are closest to the front of the machine or the left side of the 6 pin connector as you are looking at the connector side

[poppo]

Can we back up a few steps? When you power up the machine, does the the BV do anything at all? Does the transport cycle at all?

And this:

I removed the plug from the BV power supply to the machine power supply.  I put the red lead from my multimeter where the red would have been, and the black lead where the black wire would have been.  My meter is set on 20 DCV, and I'm getting a reading that fluctuates between .2 and .6.  Is it safe to assume the 12V on machine power supply is bad?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.             

If you are measuring the voltage going INTO the BV power supply, it is ac not dc

[stayouttadabunker]

I'd like to go back even further if I can...


After you use a Clear chip, you must put the SP chip back in THEN
take the SP chip back out and install the SET chip.

It's possible that if you use a SET chip without first installing the SP eprom,
the machine may not keep the SET chip settings you've programmed -
in other words, you might have to put the SET chip back in, set the
game for a quarter and then re-enable the DBV.
Then re-install the SP eprom and re-boot the MPU.

I could be wrong on this as I do NOT have a machine nearby...
and I'm not sure if you've already done this or not.

[knagl]

I'll throw out there, too, that a few SP chips bypass the 61-1 step and just go straight to the "maiden spin" after a 61, which it sounds like happened with you.  What SP chip is in there?  Do you have the PSR for it?  If so, dig through it (or we can help you) and find how to see if the bill validator is enabled and if the denomination is set.

Poppo asked a good, important question:

When you power up the machine, does the the BV do anything at all? Does the transport cycle at all?

If it does not, then don't bother looking at the settings as the issue is in your validator or its power supply.  The bill validator should cycle and make some noise when the machine is powered on regardless of whether it's correctly enabled or not.

[stayouttadabunker]

I have to agree that sometimes it surprises me that it goes directly to the "maiden spin"
after a chip change & booting up the MPU.

I begin to wonder if I had already put in the board before and had forgotten? 
Makes me think that sometimes I have a voodoo machine....

[bkbargins4u]

Wow, thank you all for responding!!
 
The bill validator does absolutely nothing when the machine is powered up, not a beep, not a peep, nothing!
When I tested the 3 prong female plug on the machine power supply that the BV power supply plugs into, I had it on AC first but didn't get much of reading which is the reason I then tested it on DC.  I also checked the fuses and they're all good.   
My multimeter tips are too big to fit into the holes in the 6 pin connector on the left side of the bill validator head.
My game chip doesn't have anything on it, and I don't know what a PSR is.
After I used the Clear chip, I did reinstall the SP chip and followed the instructions, then took the SP chip back out and installed the SET chip.
Did I miss anything?
 

[poppo]

 
The bill validator does absolutely nothing when the machine is powered up, not a beep, not a peep, nothing!

Ok, so it sounds like the BV is not getting power. But before we go any farther, what model BV do you have. There should be a label on the head like DBV-145 or DBV-200 or something. As mentioned the BV should cycle when the unit is powered up. So forget about clear chips and set chips for now.

Oh, pictures always help.

[knagl]

Ok, so it sounds like the BV is not getting power.

As mentioned the BV should cycle when the unit is powered up. So forget about clear chips and set chips for now.

 

I also neglected to mention that my very first slot was a Coral Reef (hence my avatar).  Beware -- the machines tend to multiply!

[bkbargins4u]

poppo - I have a DBV-200, I have attached a picture of it. 

knagl - I came across your post before I posted mine, it's ironic because one of your problems was the bill validator also.   

[poppo]

Ok. Does your BV power supply have vent slots along the edge? If it doesn't it's a BV-145 power supply and may not work as it can't supply enough current.

Is the other end of the power supply (the two cables that go to one molex) plugged in good to the harness? From your earlier post, I am not sure what power supply connector you were looking at. You said:

"I removed the plug from the BV power supply to the machine power supply."

Refer to the schematic above and you should have 115vac on pins 7&9 of that 9 pin molex. They are the white and black wires on the BV power supply side. You should be able to stick meter leads in there with everything connected.

[knagl]

knagl - I came across your post before I posted mine, it's ironic because one of your problems was the bill validator also.   

That is funny -- two Coral Reefs with DBV issues when purchased.

That said, my validator cycled when powered on -- I just couldn't get it to enable since there was a wire snipped in the harness of my machine.  It sounds like your power supply is either dead or not supplying enough voltage.

[bkbargins4u]

OK, here's what I found out:

The BV power supply DOES have vents.

The molex connector from the BV power supply was plugged in good to the harness.

I got 124V AC from the harness plug.

Based on that either the replacement BV power supply I just bought is bad, or the the bill validator head itself is bad, correct?

[poppo]

Based on that either the replacement BV power supply I just bought is bad, or the the bill validator head itself is bad, correct?

You could try measuring the 12Vdc out of the power supply as shown above. The head could be bad since it passes power to the transport. I would suspect the power supply first even if you did replace it. 

[bkbargins4u]

As you suspect, it appears my replacement bv power supply is bad. 

I previously tried to test it but my multimeter tips wouldn't fit into the holes, so I just inserted paper clips into the holes, then clipped alligator clips to the paper clips and then to the multimeter tips; I got absolutely no reading. 

I will get another bv power supply and let you know what happens.

Thank you to everyone for their help!!

[poppo]

There is a fuse inside of the BV power supply. At this point it could not hurt to take it apart and check it out. But if the fuse blew, it may have been for a reason.

[Foster]

Trace the harness back from the BV and its power supply make sure that a connector and/or has not come loose or broken.
The machine harness splits into 2 directions one going to the motherboard (BV Communications) and 120V AC from the top of the S+ Power supply.
Make sure that a connector back there didnt accidently come loose or a wire has broken.

There are at lease 4 connectors plugged in back there.
one for each fluorescent light and 1 for the BV.
I have an extra one there for BV Sticker on the door. its to the far right the ones you want to check are the small ones on the left and center.

[poppo]

Trace the harness back from the BV and its power supply make sure that a connector and/or has not come loose or broken.
The machine harness splits into 2 directions one going to the motherboard (BV Communications) and 120V AC from the top of the S+ Power supply.
Make sure that a connector back there didnt accidently come loose or a wire has broken.

But he has good 120VAC going into the BV power supply and nothing coming out. I know you can run make a BV head and transport cycle with just applying 120VAC to the BV power supply (I've done this on the bench outside of the machine).

[bkbargins4u]

I checked all the connectors and everything is plugged in firmly.

I took the BV power supply apart and it is definitely blown, it looks like it got pretty hot.  The back of the board is all black, the solder must have melted off the big round capacitor because it is real loose, and the fuse is blown.  I'm sure the power supply was blown when I received it because I definitely would have smelled it if my machine caused it.

I purchased another BV power supply and I'll let you know when I get installed.

Thanks you again for everyone's help!!

[knagl]

Hopefully you'll have good news to report.  Make sure that the new power supply you get has vents in the box -- the ones that don't have the vents are for the DBV-145, and won't have enough juice to properly power the 200.

[bkbargins4u]

OK.......I have some good news and some bad news.

I got my replacement bill validator power supply, installed it, and now the bill validator cycles like it should, and the light comes on like it is ready to accept bills.  I tried to put singles in it, it takes them, and then spits them back out.  I then re-setup the coin mech and bill validator.  No change.  I also bought a replacement bill validator head in case the old one was bad.  I installed it, it takes the bills in, keeps it in momentarily and the "insert coin" light flickers, and then it spits it back out.  Any idea on what the problem is?

[poppo]

OK.......I have some good news and some bad news.

I got my replacement bill validator power supply, installed it, and now the bill validator cycles like it should, and the light comes on like it is ready to accept bills.  I tried to put singles in it, it takes them, and then spits them back out.  I then re-setup the coin mech and bill validator.  No change.  I also bought a replacement bill validator head in case the old one was bad.  I installed it, it takes the bills in, keeps it in momentarily and the "insert coin" light flickers, and then it spits it back out.  Any idea on what the problem is?

What SP chip are you using? We were just discussing this in another thread that if the BV ID is set wrong it will turn on the bezel but reject bills. You can always (with power off) flip dip switch #10 on the BV head and see what happens. That is the one closest to the smaller bank of switches. So try with all dip switches off. And then with just #10 on.

Also, you may try cleaning the belts on the transport. If the belts are not grabbing, it will reject the bills.

[bkbargins4u]

I flipped switch #10 to on, and same thing.  I also swapped out the transport with a known good one from another one of machines, and same thing.