I got a S+ machine that I can't get past a 61-1 code

[poppo]

We still need to verify he had the door latched all of the way when he played the test credit. I don't know how he could have cleared the 61_1 unless the optics were working. Especially since he put known good ones in there.

[stayouttadabunker]

Maybe he burned out his new optics too? 

[BR549 Auto Sales]

how would I have burned out the optics?

[BR549 Auto Sales]

Well, it seems as if I bumped one of my reels, now I am getting a 43 error code, how d I clear this?

[poppo]

how would I have burned out the optics?

Can you go back and either try the coin test again with the door closed and latched, or do the self test that Jim mentioned?  In order to move forward we need to settle the door optic debate.

[poppo]

Well, it seems as if I bumped one of my reels, now I am getting a 43 error code, how d I clear this?

Open and close the door. I guess that will answer the optic question. As noted, it's important to make sure you are latching it all the way or the optics won't line up.

[stayouttadabunker]

His door optics might be working now...
However, I'm pretty sure you can still get a [43] error code while in "Service-Coin" mode...

[poppo]

I could be wrong, but I think he had them working earlier since he had all errors cleared, and was then having coin acceptance issues. But we sort of got back to the door optics due to the coin test and saying the door was closed when he played the credit. But it's still unclear if the door was latched all of the way when that was done.

I guess we will know if the 43 clears.

[BR549 Auto Sales]

The door latch is all the way down

[Foster]

close the door to try and clear the reel tilt.

[poppo]

The door latch is all the way down

Did the 43 clear? Open and close it one more time to be sure.

It also would help to give us a little more info on just what you are trying and the results. 

[BR549 Auto Sales]

I took the reel glass out so that I can view the optics and the are lined up perfectly, I tried to clear the 43 by opening and closing the door and moving the latch all the way down, but it still has not cleared. I was able to clear the 61-1 last night, so the door optics, since I robbed some from a working machine, seemed to have been working then. As I stated before, it would not take a coin,but droopped it into the tray. The bottom candle light was blinking at a rate of @ 2 blinks per second. I bumped the reels earlier tonight while the machine was on, now I have this 43 error. Should I do a ram clear? Everyone seems to go ape sh** whenever that is mentioned, but I don't know what else to try. I was told I could bypass the door optics by installing a jumper wire from the purple door optic wire to the red cabinet optic wire, but that would not allow me to clear the 61-1 last night, that's when I installed the known working door optics and then the 61-1 cleared.

[Foster]

Power it off and back on.
When you install the wire do it with the power on (one of the few times it is ok)
The optics can NOT be plugged in on a S+ for the bypass to work.
use a wire no bigger than 20 gauge 22 is best.

I just did a reel tilt to test whether the machine would clear it when I used a wire to bypass the optics
It was cleared when I installed the jumper, it did take the normal amount of time to clear.
When you install the jumper if the candle is flashing or on it will go out almost immediately

[BR549 Auto Sales]

I installed the jumper with the power on and everything cleared, game is working properly now. The bill validator is not lit up or working, do I need to do a set denom for it to work? It takes quarters fine, it just won't take the bill in. Thanks for all the help to clear the error codes and especially with the jumper to bypass the door optics, guess I did it while the machine was powerd off. So if I can get it to take bills, I'll be in business.

[Foster]

How comfortable are you stepping through the menus or test pages in the machine?

[poppo]

Yes, you need to use your set chip to enable the BV and set the denomination. You will need to use your jumper again during that.

You still need to figure out what is going on with the optics since they worked for at least a short time. If they still work when you put them back in your other machine, you probably have a bad wire somewhere or a bad connection. I would reseat all of the plugs on the motherboard. If they don't work in the other machine, something cooked them.

[BR549 Auto Sales]

I'm ok with the menu mode, what shall I do?

[Foster]

What game chip is in the machine (SP)?

[BR549 Auto Sales]

1271, I re routed my jumper wire to bypass the door/cabinet optics, but I forgot what my jumper wire connects to, I know it is purple (door) to the red (cabinet) but do I connect it to the purple wire at the connector or cut it and connect to the purple wire that goes back into the cabinet and connect it to which red wire at the cabinet optic, next to the connector after I cut it or to the other side of the red wire which goes back into the cabinet. If someone has a pic, that would be quite helpful. Sorry but its late and I'm a little fuzzy headed.

[BR549 Auto Sales]

bump

[poppo]

bump

Borrowed from the handy search function.

On the S+ to bypass the optics on you only need 1 piece of wire, but you have to unplug both optiics at tne white connectors or it will not work.
Connect between the Purple wire on the door optic molex connector and the red wire on the cabinet optic molex connector.

And then this
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=7853.msg69889#msg69889

[Foster]

The optics should be disconnected or the bypass will not function

Connect wire between the purple wire of the harness for door optic to the red wire in  the harness for the cabinet optic.
No real need to cut anything in case you want to use optics again.

I would install a cherry switch in the bypass because there are times the machine needs to see the door open or you wont be able do some things.

[BR549 Auto Sales]

Sorry if this is redundant but, do I unplug both optics and leave them both intact, then cut the purple wire that comes from the cabinet harness(that plugs into the door optic) and attach one end of my jumper wire. Then cut red wire from the cabinet harness and attach the other end of the jumper. Now my question is does the jumper wire connect to the purple and red wire closest to the harness or the other end which routes back into the cabinet? If that was confusing, I can take a pic of the way I have mine hooked up if that will help. I have noticed that the board tray is a little difficult to line up and slide down into place, but all of the pins on the bottom of the cpu are fine, could it possibly be the bottom cabinet board that the cpu tray slides down into?

Thanks again guys for all of your help,

David

[Foster]

why are you wanting to cut wires?

I didn't have to cut any to do the bypass.
Mine was temporary of course.
I would buy the matching connectors to connect my bypass to the existing connectors
Once you disconnect them do think about them while doing the bypass (except to use the connectors if want to re-use them)
just insert one end of the wire into the door connector for the door optic (purple wire) and insert the other end into the cabinet connector for the optic (red wire)

Now if you want to make neat and more permanent, buy new connectors or use the ones from a set of optics.
But install a cherry switch in the wire so when the door is open the machine detects the door open
the test button and the pseudo coin button on the coin optics will not work or cause a tilt if used when door is closed.