Re: Help.......

[joek4411]

There are 2 doors at the front of the slot. Small door at the bottom with a switch, and a large door above that is released from inside like PW1. I did remove the door and reinstalled it , the latch above locked the door into place. There is no switch on this door. I will look at the door again.

[Buzz]

 There is no switch on this door.

Well yes and no, true there is no switch on the large lower door, but if that door is not installed of not installed completely the latch to the main door will not rotate CCW and part of the main latch ( by design ) will block the main door optics. Yours may be OK I don't know for sure.  A pic of the main door latch will tell the story one way or the other.

Do you recall turning a part of the main door latch so you could pull up on a rod to release the lower door ? When you reinstalled the lower door that rod has to go down or it will hold the main latch from turning.

[joek4411]

Yea I rotated the cam-1 to the right as per instructions whichakes the pin visible. Pulled up the pin opened to open the door and closed the door it clicked and locked into place and nothing

[edski]

No photo cell at the top???

You must have a photo cell at the top, if not, that's the problem...

Actually, the one on the top lid is the emitter, and the one on the base is the receiver.
When the lid is closed, they have to line up to complete the signal.
If you are missing the emitter, that is why there is a "door open" error.

I think Darell, @ slots4home, has been stripping slants for parts.
He may have all you need, including a Bill Validator.



Ed

[joek4411]

Both of the brass photo cells are there , not sure if they line up but appear to be in good order, locked into the clips, no marks indicating they are hitting somthing or one another. How do you check them?
The coin comparitor led is no on, How do I check it?
What next????? Thanks..... Joe

[knagl]

The coin comparator light doesn't come on unless all the doors are closed and latched, so you typically won't see the light on there.

If you have a digital camera with a LCD screen that you can use as a viewfinder, turn the camera on and aim it towards the emitter.  If the emitter is working, it will appear as a blueish-white light (which may or may not be flickering) on the screen of the camera.  Only the emitter will show that light -- the receiver will not.

When you fully close and latch all of the doors of the machine, does the red LED "0" in the coins played window turn off for a few seconds and then return?

[StatFreak]

Forgive me for interjecting, but Buzz and I tried that digital camera trick on a few machines and we couldn't see anything on the camera's LCD screen.

I know that this tip has been circulating on NLG for a long time, but I'm not sure that it works with all point & shoot camera models. Perhaps the camera's refresh rate or the quality or lack of quality of the camera's IR filter may have some bearing.

If one hasn't been able to confirm that it works with their camera on a known good optic emitter, I wouldn't be prepared to call an optic bad if nothing showed up on the camera's LCD display.

Just my 2¢.

Stat

[knagl]

Interesting.  It must have something to do with the model of camera or shutter speed or whatnot -- I've been successful with my S+ and PE+ machines and my camera, but that's good to point out that it may not work with every camera.

[Neonkiss]

Forgive me for interjecting, but Buzz and I tried that digital camera trick on a few machines and we couldn't see anything on the camera's LCD screen.

I know that this tip has been circulating on NLG for a long time, but I'm not sure that it works with all point & shoot camera models. Perhaps the camera's refresh rate or the quality or lack of quality of the camera's IR filter may have some bearing.

If one hasn't been able to confirm that it works with their camera on a known good optic emitter, I wouldn't be prepared to call an optic bad if nothing showed up on the camera's LCD display.

Just my 2¢.

Stat

Just check you camera first with your TV controller. Same IR transmitter.
With the TV controller you will only see it when you push a button on the controller.

[AnotherTech]

I just checked with my Canon SD1100IS and with a Droid X.  The Canon works pretty well, although less ambient light is better. 

The droid X was almost useless for this.  I was eventually able to tell the difference, but only after unplugging the optic and plugging it back in several times in a very dark environment.  The difference is a very dim purple dot when the optic is emitting.

Since the Droid X takes better pics and is newer, I'm guessing that older digital cameras are best for this, as they have less IR filtering. 

[AnotherTech]

joek, Door M problems on these slant tops can be a real pain. 

I usually pull up on the 3 position switch to the "closed" position.  I do this on the top box, and the bottom door, and the coin tray, if it has one. 
I usually bypass the 3 position switch on the hatch door (the one on the right.  The one on the left is just for the cabinet light), but you can just pull up on it as well. 
I pop the upper optic out of its plastic holder, let the door shut all but the last few inches and hold the upper and lower optics face to face. 
I then open the BV door, and hold that switch down with a small screwdriver. 

If the door M goes away, at least you know the wiring and optics are good.

I then shut the BV door and check again.
Then the top box door.
Then the bottom door, etc. until I find the problem.

All this assumes that the switches work in the pulled out position, which isn't always true, but usually.

If that doesn't work, I short the 3 position switches with a paper clip and do the same thing with the optics and BV door switch.

In my experience, the BV switch causes the most problems.  The metal lever on the switch can be bent to make better contact with the button on the switch.

[a69mopar]

If you haven't checked for broken or cut wires to the switches, you may want to.  I've had a few that had some snipped wires.

W

[knagl]

joek, Door M problems on these slant tops can be a real pain. 

.... 

If the door M goes away, at least you know the wiring and optics are good.

Keep in mind, this is an S+, not an S2000 -- it's not quite as obvious on them when the machine senses that the doors are closed (there's no VFD with status messages).

[Buzz]

I don't even like going in this direction but I will.

Unplug both of your door optics.Take note that each one of those plugs have two wires and can only be plug in one way. I'm going to call one side of each plug having a sharp point.

Now you have the optics unplugged don't give them another thought they will remain unplugged. Looking at the very pretty drawing I just made, using a wire 2 or 3 feet long hook it up like the RED wire in the drawing. Take note the door ( your top one) the red wire is plugged into the nonpointed side of the plug.  Cabinet side plug into the pointed side. If you see any cherry switches ( The white ones ) that a door hasn't pushed in, pull out on the center plunger.

What we have done is we have made the machine ( optics ) think the main door is closed.( It's OK not to close the main door )  If the optics were your problem I hope you see the LED light up on the coin comparator. ( If it works ) Even if the comparator doesn't light up, drop a coin in the Comp. to see what happens.

For you non believers, this one wire bypass works on a Upright S+ and a Slant Top PE+ I can see no reason why it won't work on a 3 Reel Slant Top.

[stayouttadabunker]

It should work Buzz but I'd like to warn anyone trying this without proper Molex connectors.
If when inserting the jumper bypass wire into the 2-pin connector
and accidentally touching the wrong pin - you'll be amazed at what burns out!  
Make sure the correct pins are connected together BEFORE turning "ON" the power switch!!!!

Below are a couple of photos I just took using my old scratched up magnifying glass...
Note that the "pointed" side of Molex connectors are designated as Pin #1.
I put a little bit of black marker ink on that area on the back of the Molex connector-
to bring out the number a touch better to see.
Click on any photo to enlarge! >>>

[stayouttadabunker]

Here's a couple photographs of the back side of the 2-Pin Molex connectors...
I find it amazing at how gripping a golf club without wearing gloves chews up the cuticles of my left thumb...
I need to get a manicure...


Click on the photos to really make big!!!>>>

[joek4411]

Ill send some pictures and tell me what you think. Should there be any light emmitted from the brass sensors?

[joek4411]

2 of the 4 switches

[joek4411]

3 & 4  switches

[joek4411]

switches

[joek4411]

continued.....

[joek4411]

Anything out of place??????

[Buzz]

Ill send some pictures and tell me what you think. Should there be any light emmitted from the brass sensors?

The brass sensors are the part we have been calling the door optics.     Now the ans. to your question is in this thread.

[StatFreak]

joek4411, we haven't heard back from you. Did you ever get your machine working?

Stat

[joek4411]

Sorry , got busy with work and building a trailer. Will try this week-end. Thanks for the poke!