IGT "call attendant" but no error codes

[staz]

if you have a board like this the battery slides right in the top middle of the board.......

[Foster]

Every one beat me to the answer

Thats what I get for doing a game and top box change.

[OhioGaming]

I'm familiar with where the reset key is and where the white switch on the MPU are but
haven't tried either of these because lie I metioned before I know nothing about them.
I was told by someone that the reset key was for resetting anfter a jackpot only and
could mess up the programming if used anytime other than a jackpot.

Whoever TOLD you that is DEAD wrong.
Turning the Jackpot reset key, while the door is closed in game mode -
just puts you into the "Accounting Mode".
You cannot change any "programming" whatsoever by turning the reset key.
Basically, you can see all the records of the machine.

To get out of it,  just open and re-close the door & you'll be back in game mode

However, pressing the little white test button and then hitting deck buttons
(without any knowledge of what the heck you're doing)
WILL change priory set programming.

If you are my customer I will tell you to leave the key alone unless you are talking to someone who knows what the purpose of the key is for other than resetting a jackpot.

And the reason why is because  the curiosity gets the best of people and it leads to the bottom section of Stayouttabunker's comments. The thought occurs what happens if  the "RESET BUTTON" is pushed? BTW it is a self test switch. That leads to pushing buttons and turning the key and pushing more buttons. After that .. oh my machine still doesn't work  .. what do I do now.

Miaduck you did the right thing in seeking help first.

After replacing the battery .. follow the information about clearing the ram error codes as you did already. If the machine has a Multi Media II board installed for sound it may set the sounds back to legacy settings.

[staz]

another thing to remember in pulling out the mpu board make sure your grounded these boards dont like static!!!!! static can fry the board..... and when reinstalling the board make sure its in tight......in my first board i had i was going through batteries every 2 weeks for some strange reason my first board kept draining my batteries......i put a new board in there and now it runs perfect...... so if you replace the battery and in a month you encounter the same error message again then you might have to replace the board......most likely you wont get another error......

[Miaduck]

I'm familiar with where the reset key is and where the white switch on the MPU are but
haven't tried either of these because lie I mentioned before I know nothing about them.
I was told by someone that the reset key was for resetting after a jackpot only and
could mess up the programming if used anytime other than a jackpot.

Whoever TOLD you that is DEAD wrong.
Turning the Jackpot reset key, while the door is closed in game mode -
just puts you into the "Accounting Mode".
You cannot change any "programming" whatsoever by turning the reset key.
Basically, you can see all the records of the machine.

To get out of it,  just open and re-close the door & you'll be back in game mode

However, pressing the little white test button and then hitting deck buttons
(without any knowledge of what the heck you're doing)
WILL change priory set programming.

If you are my customer I will tell you to leave the key alone unless you are talking to someone who knows what the purpose of the key is for other than resetting a jackpot.

And the reason why is because  the curiosity gets the best of people and it leads to the bottom section of Stayouttabunker's comments. The thought occurs what happens if  the "RESET BUTTON" is pushed? BTW it is a self test switch. That leads to pushing buttons and turning the key and pushing more buttons. After that .. oh my machine still doesn't work  .. what do I do now.

Miaduck you did the right thing in seeking help first.

After replacing the battery .. follow the information about clearing the ram error codes as you did already. If the machine has a Multi Media II board installed for sound it may set the sounds back to legacy settings.

Yes, the advice about using the reset switch ONLY for jackpot resets did come for the supplier who sold it to me.

So, if I replace the battery then I may get by with only performing the same reset that Foster had posted and I may not have to do the whole RAM Clear process?

[staz]

yes odds are you wont have to do a full ram clear.......

[Miaduck]

That is good news.
Man, you guys are a great resource for the newbie. This is my first slot machine and had it over a year and this was my first problem. I just did a search on Yahoo with my machine and the problem and there was a link that got me to this forum. It's obvious that there is a huge amount of knowledge on this site.

Thanks all and I'll let y'all know how things turn out after the battery replacement.

[staz]

your welcome maduck..... this site is great i was in your shoes a few years back...... i learned a ton of stuff through this site....all the guys on here are great......

[Foster]

No need to do a ram clear.
There is a EEPROM chip on the Backplane that stores essentially the same information the RAM does that once you replace the battery and go through the steps I posted will be loaded back into RAM (you might loose a little of the accounting/statistical data) but nothing you need to worry about)

[FORDSBS]

Now it official - I didn't know what I was talking about when I said you might have to do a setup.   

[Miaduck]

another thing to remember in pulling out the mpu board make sure your grounded these boards dont like static!!!!! static can fry the board..... and when reinstalling the board make sure its in tight......in my first board i had i was going through batteries every 2 weeks for some strange reason my first board kept draining my batteries......i put a new board in there and now it runs perfect...... so if you replace the battery and in a month you encounter the same error message again then you might have to replace the board......most likely you wont get another error......

OK, one last question before while I wait for my battery to arrive. How show I "make sure I'm grounded" Do I need to buy a static strap or something?

[FORDSBS]

All you do is touch cabnet

[Miaduck]

Well, I was quite so lucky, when I pulled the board out I found that it has the type of battery that is soldered in. It looks like it has BR2880 or BR2330. I will have to check it again before I order. I did see some Panasonic batteries like this on eBay that had the clips on them for soldering. I have soldered on many electronic boards in past years so I feel comfortable with this small task. Now just to get a better look at the battery to verify that number.

[Miaduck]

if you have a board like this the battery slides right in the top middle of the board.......

Well, I was quite so lucky, when I pulled the board out I found that it has the type of battery that is soldered in. It looks like it has BR2880 or BR2330. I will have to check it again before I order. I did see some Panasonic batteries like this on eBay that had the clips on them for soldering. I have soldered on many electronic boards in past years so I feel comfortable with this small task. Now just to get a better look at the battery to verify that number. I posted some pics in the last post.

[Tilt]

Since you have to do some soldering on the board you may want to consider soldering in a coin cell socket and using a standard coin cell battery.   Then when it goes dead next time you won't have to do any soldering.  Also, while you're in there I would remove that green varta rechargeable battery.  It isn't needed on your board and will eventually leak and damage it.   Here's a photo of a S2000 board with the socket/battery.  You can get the parts from mouser electronics, the battery part number is 658-CR2354 and the socket is 534-1027.  Last time I ordered them they were less than 2 bucks each. 



 

[Miaduck]

Since you have to do some soldering on the board you may want to consider soldering in a coin cell socket and using a standard coin cell battery.  Then when it goes dead next time you won't have to do any soldering.  Also, while you're in there I would remove that green varta rechargeable battery.  It isn't needed on your board and will eventually leak and damage it.  Here's a photo of a S2000 board with the socket/battery.  You can get the parts from mouser electronics, the battery part number is 658-CR2354 and the socket is 534-1027.  Last time I ordered them they were less than 2 bucks each. 


Thanks for the tips. I just ordered the parts from Mouser and the order total less shipping was under $4 so you were right on. Thanks again. I also read in another location on this site about removing that green battery. I that it in my upper pic in the top right of the board near the component with the wire coiled around it?

 

[Buzz]

Well, I was quite so lucky, when I pulled the board out I found that it has the type of battery that is soldered in. It looks like it has BR2880 or BR2330. I will have to check it again before I order. I did see some Panasonic batteries like this on eBay that had the clips on them for soldering. I have soldered on many electronic boards in past years so I feel comfortable with this small task. Now just to get a better look at the battery to verify that number.

It's a BR2330   But If you think about it, it takes a 3 volt battery   The part number doesn't mean a whole lot as long as you use a 3 volt replacement battery.

I might as well tell the whole story.  I have a S**t pot of 3.6 volt Lithum 1/2 AA battery's left from the S+ and Bally 5500 days. I am using them up on S 2000.  Oh I can hear the mod squad now, "the Ol Man is screwing up" " he's gonna burn something up " it hasn't happened yet."  A 3 volt in a IGT last approximately 10 years, a 3.6 volt should last 12 years. I'm preforming preventive maintenance by using the 3.6 battery's !! ( that's my story and I'm sticking to it )

Cliff I was slow typing so let me ask you a question, I know you like the battery holder, but why?  OK I'm not a total idiot, I know you can change a battery easier ( every 10 years with a holder) but the way I have it figured a battery that's soldered in will not lose electrical contact, I don't think you can say that can't happen with a holder. I'm pretty sure everyone of us has had a flashlight that we have had to beat the shit out of to get it to work, those battery's are in a holder !!

[Tilt]

Buzz,

The CMOS RAM ICs on S2k 50X series board normally operate off of a 5V supply voltage and the data retention voltage specs are 2.0 to 5.5V.  You won't burn up anything with your 3.6V S+ battery installed as you've proven.

Do the normal solder type BR2330 batteries really last 10 years in S2K MPUs?  I know the 3.6V 1/2 AA's last somewhere near that on a S+, but didn't know how long they last in an S2K.  I normally just replace them with the higher capacity CR2354 and remove the green rechargeable battery at the same time.  The longest I've had one installed is just over 2 years now. 

I prefer the battery holder because it's easier to change in the future as you know, and it also reduces the chances of future MPU board damage from handling/soldering on the board.  You know, ESD, solder bridges, trace damage from overheating, etc.  It also make the battery a user replaceable item (at least in my mind) for the next owner who may not have soldering skills.  Socketed coin cell batteries are used in many consumer products, the CMOS memory backup in your PC and most garage door opener remotes are two that I can think of quickly.  I don't think poor electrical contact is an issue for them.   I understand the enhanced S2K boards (1270?) use the same replaceable CR2354 battery in a holder too. 

It really comes down to personal preferences like many things in life.  I find it satisfying to know that the next time one of my batteries go dead that I won't have to remove it from the tray and do any soldering to replace it.  That's my 2c anyhow.

[j blair]

i have a igt s2000 and need to change the battery also. i pulled the board and it has 2 batteries - one is a flat 3v watch battery and the other is a rounded 3.6v varta battery. do i need to change both batteries as my error is - "main battery low" they are both soldered in so how do i change them out and will i need the reset chips and where can i get the chips?

[j blair]

im sorry but i forgot to ask for the proper way to un solder the old batteries and how do i solder new ones in place? like what kind of solder? do i use flux or what? iv never soldered something so small!

[Miaduck]

No need to do a ram clear.
There is a EEPROM chip on the Backplane that stores essentially the same information the RAM does that once you replace the battery and go through the steps I posted will be loaded back into RAM (you might loose a little of the accounting/statistical data) but nothing you need to worry about)

I am very pleased to announce that just yesterday I was able to take the time out to replace the battery on my board and everything worked out fine. I also removed the green varta battery that Tilt recommended. I did notice that my machine no longer will sound off periodically when no one has played in a while. Is this something that may have been lost? It's not a big issue because everything else works fine and honestly, in my home it's better this way.

It appears that someone else has posted something on this thread and is needed the same type of advice. Hopefully they will read the entire thread and continue asking questions to get all pf them answered before trying anything else.

Thanks again everyone for all of the help.

[knagl]

I did notice that my machine no longer will sound off periodically when no one has played in a while. Is this something that may have been lost? It's not a big issue because everything else works fine and honestly, in my home it's better this way.

If you decide you want it back, the attract mode settings are 3.2.6.2 and 3.2.6.3 in the menus.  There must be zero credits on the machine for the attact mode sounds to play -- they will never play if you leave one or more credits on the machine.

[Miaduck]

I did notice that my machine no longer will sound off periodically when no one has played in a while. Is this something that may have been lost? It's not a big issue because everything else works fine and honestly, in my home it's better this way.

If you decide you want it back, the attract mode settings are 3.2.6.2 and 3.2.6.3 in the menus.  There must be zero credits on the machine for the attract mode sounds to play -- they will never play if you leave one or more credits on the machine.

I do actually have credits on the machine so that is probably the reason that the attract mode sounds aren't working. Thanks, and I will certainly make a donation to the site as soon as I get to a computer to do so. I am currently working this from my phone.






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